Project: ShopNotes Router Mortising Jig

[Matt Meiser]

Yesterday I built the mortising jig from ShopNotes Volume 11 Issue 64. I had seen one demonstrated at our local woodworking club about a year ago and have wanted to build one ever since. I made just a couple minor changes due to the stock I had on hand, but am pleased with the result.

On a related note, it now appears that ShopNotes back issues are only available in bound sets containing the entire volume for $30. Luckily I found this one a while back at Rockler on clearance.

[Jim Becker]

You did a nice job on that, Matt. Very handy to have!

[Matt Meiser]

So now my only question is: Is there any reason to keep my mortising machine?

[Byron Trantham]

So now my only question is: Is there any reason to keep my mortising machine?
Yea, use it to square up the corners!:D

[Jim Becker]

So now my only question is: Is there any reason to keep my mortising machine?

You know, every project is different and the hollow chisel mortiser may be the right tool for some of them. It doesn't take up a heck of a lot of room and will be there when you need it. I'd suggest you at least wait awhile until you determine the reality of your needs before liquidating the tool from your arsenal.

[Reg Mitchell]

Matt thats a sweet looking jig. I have been thinking of makeing one of those. How does it work. Looks like it dose a good job too. ;)

[Matt Meiser]

I'd suggest you at least wait awhile until you determine the reality of your needs before liquidating the tool from your arsenal.

But then I could buy more crack (Festool, that is.) :D

[Alex Berkovsky]

Matt,
Great job on the mortising jig. I right in the middle of making the same jig. I decided to make a Lexan router plate for my Bosch 1617 router.

[Matt Meiser]

Matt thats a sweet looking jig. I have been thinking of makeing one of those. How does it work. Looks like it dose a good job too. ;)

Basically there is a channel for the router to slide side-to-side in. There are stops (the hardboard pieces) that set the length of the mortise by limiting the travel of the router. The width is set by the bit you use, and the depth by how far you plunge the bit. You adjust the position of the mortise on the piece by sliding the top front to back. The bottom has a piece that moves to support the workpiece, which can also be moved to other positions to support 45 degree angle mortises and end mortises. I really like this feature because it will be useful for doing loose tenons. Setting it up is very easy. You just mark the position of the mortise on the workpiece and use the router bit to tell when you have the front-back adjusted right and then bring in the stops. To cut the mortise, you plunge the bit in, move side to side, plunge more, and so on. It only takes a few seconds to actually cut each mortise. You can also clamp a stop block to it so that you can cut several identical mortises without having to recheck the setup.

[Reg Mitchell]

so did you make the slot on the jig to fit the largest guide bushing you would be useing and just use a smaller bit to make the slot size you need still useing the larger bushing.

[Matt Meiser]

so did you make the slot on the jig to fit the largest guide bushing you would be useing and just use a smaller bit to make the slot size you need still useing the larger bushing.

The slot is just to give you visibility to the bit. The router is guided by a channel in the top and registers off the base plate.

[JayStPeter]

So now my only question is: Is there any reason to keep my mortising machine?

Depth of mortise. I built the same jig and like it OK (save for storage). You are limited to your bit length minus 1/2". For the most part, that's around 1". OK for most things, but not quite enough for the beds I just made (which I made the jig for). I did just order a 2" long 1/2" bit for future use. But, that's about as good as it gets.

Jay

[Alan Schaffter]

Whenever I get around to making one of these I am going to modify the L & R stops by attaching (removable?) registration pieces to and below the stops. These pieces would extend inwards past the edges of the stops by half the width of the router base. Once the registration pieces are attached to the stops you would use your router and mortising bit to cut them to size- move the router left and right up to the stops. The longer lower pieces are cut by the bit and now reference the stops to the bit position which will allow you to easily set the stops for the desired length of your mortise. Ideally you would make the registration pieces removeable/replaceable for different sized mortising bits and routers.

[Craig Moulton]

I bought an extra router sub base plate and put two rollers in it. This makes centered mortises pretty easily. For offset from center mortises I clamp a shim equal to the offset dimension to the workpiece (scrap laminate flooring is what I use).

Rollers: nylon bushing over a 1/4-20 screw with nylock nuts to hold it secure against the base plate. The nylon bushings have to be thick enough to stick out past the screw heads and nuts to roll smoothly along the sides of the stock.

There is a commercially available one, but it uses brass pins, not rollers.

[Prashun Patel]

So now my only question is: Is there any reason to keep my mortising machine?

No, there is not. You should dispose of your mortising machine. I will help you. Send it over...

[Matt Meiser]

Wow, this thread is quite a bit out of date as far as my techniques. I sold the mortiser, but I also never use this jig because I bought a Domino.

[Stephen Massman]

ebay is a good source for old shopnotes and woodsmith. other wood porn also.

[Prashun Patel]

Wow, this thread is quite a bit out of date as far as my techniques. I sold the mortiser, but I also never use this jig because I bought a Domino.


HA! Didn't read the dates!!!!! sorry!