Layered Butcher Block counter top

[Charles DeVoe]

I have a large pile of rough cut oak, all 5/4. I'm planning to make a countertop with it. I've 3 thoughts on how to build it

1. Cut the boards into 2" strips and glue them up to get a 2" thickness

2. Make 1" X 3" ( or perhaps 1' X 2") boards and glue them together to get the 2" thickness. On the bottom the first board would be 1 1/2 inches wide so as to stagger the joints

3. A variation on 2 where the outside edge is apiece of 2" X 3" with a half lap to get the offset.

I understand part of it is the difference in appearance between the 1", 2", and 3" width on top. I am planning on doing an epoxy finish using an epoxy that is temperature resilient.

Looking for some thoughts or advice on the three methods?

[Jim Becker]

Option one for me for the entire counter. No way would I laminate horizontally to get thickness for this application. I'd do the lamination with resin (epoxy) for open time and strength.

[Michael Burnside]

I’d probably pick 1 like Jim, but it’s just whatever looks best to you. I would 100% use epoxy with a slow hardener.

[Charles DeVoe]

Option one for me for the entire counter. No way would I laminate horizontally to get thickness for this application. I'd do the lamination with resin (epoxy) for open time and strength.

Thanks you for the input. That was what I was thinking, but I was looking for confirmation.

Second question here. I need one piece roughy 15 feet long, the other two are about 6 or 7 feet. I'm going to start with the shorter one first. Any tips for gluing up a 15 foot piece, I have about 15 clamps. My thought here is to build sections about 9 or 10 inches wide, plane them, and then joining the 3 or pieces I need to get the finished width.

[Charles DeVoe]

I’d probably pick 1 like Jim, but it’s just whatever looks best to you. I would 100% use epoxy with a slow hardener.


My thought as well, but I was looking for other opinions or why the other methods might be preferable

[jack duren]

Do you have a planer?

[Richard Coers]

Doing a 2" thick countertop might cause some issues if you mount a sink in it. The industry is pretty much set up for thinner. Hope it's white oak, red oak might take extra finishing effort as the epoxy will get more bubbles because of it's porosity.

[Charles DeVoe]

Doing a 2" thick countertop might cause some issues if you mount a sink in it. The industry is pretty much set up for thinner. Hope it's white oak, red oak might take extra finishing effort as the epoxy will get more bubbles because of it's porosity.


LOL!! So they are only 1.5 inches.

I am using red oak. Had some logs I cut down over on the woodlot and had them cut up at a sawmill. 5,000 board feet for about $900. My only regret is not getting more 2" stuff. I actually did a test with the epoxy on another project for a beer making system. I used a poly stain to do the stain and seal all at once. For porous wood you either have to do that or put down a thin sealcoat first to prevent the bubbles. I also learned that if you have thick spots you use a different epoxy. As it was an experiment, I first did a straight pour. It ran all over and I ended up with a not so nice product. I then tried it by building a form around the top and poured it in. This is where I learned about a different epoxy for the sides where it was about 1 inch thick. When it was done, I rounded the edge with a router. Then used many different grits sized sandpapers to going from 180 down to 4000 to smooth the edge. I could have gone further and gotten a polish to shine it up completely.

[Charles DeVoe]

Do you have a planer?

Yes I have a dewalt plan
er.

[Jim Becker]

Thanks you for the input. That was what I was thinking, but I was looking for confirmation.

Second question here. I need one piece roughy 15 feet long, the other two are about 6 or 7 feet. I'm going to start with the shorter one first. Any tips for gluing up a 15 foot piece, I have about 15 clamps. My thought here is to build sections about 9 or 10 inches wide, plane them, and then joining the 3 or pieces I need to get the finished width.
A 15 foot laminate/countertop is a major undertaking, including keeping it flat during the process, having enough clamps (15 is only a small fraction of what you need) and then processing it after your glue up. Getting even a 10" wide section that's 15' long through a planer is going to be "not fun". And then there is moving it from where you build it to where you need it to be after it's fully ready. You are going to find that even those 6-7 footers are going to be beasts to deal with due to the weight.

For reference, I did a laminated maple countertop for the island at our previous residence. It was about 1.75" thick by 36" by 60". I could not lift it myself without risk of damaging it or damaging me.

[Charles DeVoe]

A 15 foot laminate/countertop is a major undertaking, including keeping it flat during the process, having enough clamps (15 is only a small fraction of what you need) and then processing it after your glue up. Getting even a 10" wide section that's 15' long through a planer is going to be "not fun". And then there is moving it from where you build it to where you need it to be after it's fully ready. You are going to find that even those 6-7 footers are going to be beasts to deal with due to the weight.

For reference, I did a laminated maple countertop for the island at our previous residence. It was about 1.75" thick by 36" by 60". I could not lift it myself without risk of damaging it or damaging me.

Yes, I plan on having some help. My plan is to make it in say 6 inch wide pieces. I plan to have the cabinets in place so I can do the final glue up in place.

Which now has me thinking. I could make it using 1 inch boards and 1 1/2 inch along the edges, I could modify the cabinets to account for the thickness or put 1/2 inch strips in on the counter top where it would meet the top of the cabinets.

[Jim Becker]

You can certainly make the "field" of the counter thinner at 1" and edge with thicker. The downside is it may be less stable over time due to closer proximity to moisture. You are also going to find that doing the resin pour is going to be "more complicated" doing it in-situ than in the shop. I'm just mentioning these things so you keep them in mind as you work out your final plan of action. This is a "yuge" job you are undertaking and one that will be very visible.

[Charles DeVoe]

You can certainly make the "field" of the counter thinner at 1" and edge with thicker. The downside is it may be less stable over time due to closer proximity to moisture. You are also going to find that doing the resin pour is going to be "more complicated" doing it in-situ than in the shop. I'm just mentioning these things so you keep them in mind as you work out your final plan of action. This is a "yuge" job you are undertaking and one that will be very visible.

Yes, it is very YUGE! I'm also building the cabinets. When Asked why I don't just buy stuff I answer "Because in the end, I can say I did that."

Plus, it will be fun, and it is always great to see things come together. Good point about the epoxy pour as well. All good things to think about

[Jim Becker]

I also prefer to "do my own work" and do that most of the time. But I will tell you that when I did the kitchen at our old property back in 2003, there were three jobs I subbed out...gas line for the range, drywall ('cause it was a much larger job than I could reasonably handle myself in the time I had available) and the countertops other than the island that I previously mentioned. I did everything else including demolition, new exterior doors and windows, framing adjustments, range hood accomodations (ok, I did sub out the custom duct for that, but I designed and installed it), cabinets, trim, finishing, etc. That was my choice, of course, and your's can and should be what's best for you.

[George Yetka]

If it was not too large a job I would glue them 5/4x2 on the 2" and recut and roll to end grain

[jack duren]

There’s nothing wrong with a 2” top. Best to make sections tya5 fit your planer, this way you can complete in 2-3 pieces. Much easier to finish glueing 2-3 pieces.