Beeswax?

[John Kananis]

I'm looking to try out beeswax on my turnings and surprisingly, the local farms don't sell it. This is what I found. Am I looking at the right product here? Can someone recommend? Richard raffan inspired me to try it out.

https://essentialorganicingredients.com/products/misc-packaging-organic-beeswax-chunks?variant=22065438490742&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2020-02-03&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA1-6sBhAoEiwArqlGPguTZyMY7dN96FBTPMFXpmWeHLxNItpI0h03 vIRe55ddE_TKjeSYGBoC48AQAvD_BwE

Edit: also, I see there's yellow and white beeswax available through some vendors. Which and why? Thanks in advance.

[Edward Weber]

Just a little warning.
Yes, Beeswax can be used in finishing products, BUT it's really not that hard. If the piece in question is handled a lot, the beswax will wear quickly.
Carnuba is harder as far as natural waxes go.

[Mike Cutler]

"yellow" beeswax is typically processed right out of the hive. It is a mixture of wax, propolis, pollen, etc, and the heat from the uncapping process usually turns it a little bit more amber. It's not filtered typically. Whatever floats to the top during the processing is skimmed off, and you're left with what you're left with.
"White" beeswax is more highly filtered. Typically used in food processing, medicines, candle making, and, cosmetics.
Beeswax melts at about 145degF, so it can be easier applied "wet" if you'd like, and not present a danger to you.
If you're going to get it "raw", heat it up slowly in a double boiler, and skim off all of the pollutants. Propolis is a hard resinous material in a beehive, it's their form of glue, and it can scratch the piece you're applying wax to.
It is a soft finish though, and easy to mar. But also easy to fix. Just warm it back up, and wipe it down.

[Bill Howatt]

You can also try a common turner's finish, at least among those who like soft finishes, by heating about 4 parts mineral oil to 1 part beeswax (yes, that's right, more oil than wax) in a double-boiler. Pour it into suitable container(s) and let it solidify. Some who sell their wares, give a little jar of it to the purchaser so they can renew spots and think they got something for free :).

[John Kananis]

Thank you for the information, gentlemen.

[Tony Joyce]

This may be of interest to you. Don Williams is well know for his finishing knowledge.

https://donsbarn.com/finishing-supplies/

[Mel Fulks]

Been a long time since I bought bees wax. The prices on line must be mainly for first time buyers. I bought it from a bee keeper , and
still have a large round piece matching height and diameter of of a large pie. Used some to make a couple of batches of old-book
wood worker tips.

[Don Stephan]

John

You don't have to melt beeswax or mix it with mineral oil - you can apply it just as Mr Raffan demonstrates. Note he applies some pressure on his waxy sock to melt the beeswax rubbed on the surface. As someone noted, it is a soft finish compared to poly, varnish, and other curing film finishes. If applied go cereal bowls, wooden plates, and such, after a few washings with a mild dish soap and the soft side of a kitchen sponge, litte of the wax coating will remain. Mr Raffan sold many of his bowls to galleries and re-sellers, and in one of his Youtube videos he surmises the beeswax coating was to seal the oil coating applied first, so the oil did not leave residue.

[John Kananis]

I'm getting the impression that I should use something other than. I'm still experimenting so I'll try the beeswax anyway so i have some experience with it but I welcome suggestions. So far, odie's wax is nice once you heat it up and can work with it. Other than that, I only have paste wax (minwax and a new can of Lundmark) and paraffin (which I'm sure isn't good) on hand but I'm willing to get whatever is most recommend.

[Mel Fulks]

The turner that I worked for , in early 1960s , had steel hollow “steady rests “ used on things like tall tester beds . Had a number of
sizes . He always put bees wax on them . Never see any mention of that stuff now. Are those things still used ?

[Richard Coers]

"yellow" beeswax is typically processed right out of the hive. It is a mixture of wax, propolis, pollen, etc, and the heat from the uncapping process usually turns it a little bit more amber. It's not filtered typically. Whatever floats to the top during the processing is skimmed off, and you're left with what you're left with.
"White" beeswax is more highly filtered. Typically used in food processing, medicines, candle making, and, cosmetics.
Beeswax melts at about 145degF, so it can be easier applied "wet" if you'd like, and not present a danger to you.
If you're going to get it "raw", heat it up slowly in a double boiler, and skim off all of the pollutants. Propolis is a hard resinous material in a beehive, it's their form of glue, and it can scratch the piece you're applying wax to.
It is a soft finish though, and easy to mar. But also easy to fix. Just warm it back up, and wipe it down.
Propiis is a lot more than glue. It has anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties. I take it as an anti-inflammatory and for an immune booster.

[Thomas Wilson80]

I frequently use bees wax on small spindle turnings (tops, honey dippers, Christmas ornaments, boxes). For these types of things that don’t get handled/washed regularly I like the mild sheen and depth it gives to the wood.

Another thing that I like about it is that it is easy to put on the bottom of small turnings after being parted off the lathe - I put some wax on the nub of wood that is left in the chuck and get a paper towel or small piece of tee shirt really hot and loaded with wax by pushing it onto the wood at high speed then quickly rub it over the parted-off turning. It gives a nice blended finish to the bottom.

Here are a few turnings with only bees wax finish:

513479513480
Snowmen (1.5-2” tall) made of sycamore branches with iron-acetate applied to the hats prior to beeswax finish. 12-14” Linden ornaments.

513482513481513483
3x3” cedar box. Tops from various woods, some with iron acetate applied prior to beeswax finish. Honey dippers.


I usually buy little sticks of the beeswax on eBay for a couple dollars that last me several months.

Tom

[Edward Weber]

I'm getting the impression that I should use something other than. I'm still experimenting so I'll try the beeswax anyway so i have some experience with it but I welcome suggestions. So far, odie's wax is nice once you heat it up and can work with it. Other than that, I only have paste wax (minwax and a new can of Lundmark) and paraffin (which I'm sure isn't good) on hand but I'm willing to get whatever is most recommend.

Personally, for a wax finish, I use a microcrystalline wax, such as Renaissance Wax.
Much harder that natural waxes and it has lots of uses around the shop.

[Reed Gray]

Beeswax for a finish is pretty much worthless. Almost no protection from water. I have been using walnut oils, at first from Mike Mahoney, and now from the Doctor's Woodshop. It has carnauba wax in it that does not need to be heated to spread. The walnut oil takes a week or so to cure and harden, but it does harden. Pure Tung oil takes up to a month. If you just want a wax finish, then Kiwi neutral shoe polish works, it is carnauba in a turpentine base. Butcher's wax is pretty much the same thing, One of their products is 'bowling alley wax'.

robo hippy

[John Kananis]

Reed, which Doctor's Woodshop product(s) do you use? I noticed there are a few.


Beeswax for a finish is pretty much worthless. Almost no protection from water. I have been using walnut oils, at first from Mike Mahoney, and now from the Doctor's Woodshop. It has carnauba wax in it that does not need to be heated to spread. The walnut oil takes a week or so to cure and harden, but it does harden. Pure Tung oil takes up to a month. If you just want a wax finish, then Kiwi neutral shoe polish works, it is carnauba in a turpentine base. Butcher's wax is pretty much the same thing, One of their products is 'bowling alley wax'.

robo hippy

[Scott Winners]

I agree with, well everybody so far. I really like the look of a wax finish, but it is not a finish for high wear surfaces. If you put it on a chair seat some of the wax will come off on the seat of your pants, every time, until there is no wax left. If you like the look, on something like a Xmas tree ornament, it should last a good long time and be easy to maintain every few years.

Couple pics of my saw till taken tonight. I finished the interior and drawer fronts with an oil, I think hemp, maybe tung, and then applied #31 from Don's barn dot com to the drawer fronts and perch rails- it's three parts beeswax and one part carnuba. The interior panels had the same whatever oil and Johnson's paste wax. Since 03-11-2022 all I have done is suck out the nooks and crannies with a shop vac every now and again, and then wipe down with a clean dry rag. A swiffer would probably work good. Just touching the drawer fronts tonight they are perfectly smooth still, but all I have done is clean them every few months for coming up on two years.

I honestly don't recall which wax I used on the figured beech French cleat at the top of the case, probably Johnson's.

There are I think 2 videos on youtube of Don's beeswax purification process. He is now retired after 30 some years as a furniture conservator at the Smithsonian. I weigh both my beeswax and #31 on a gram scale every time I use them. One of my goals for 2024 is to order a lifetime supply of each while Don is still selling product. Buffing out the #31 is a memorable cold hearted witch, probably a LOT easier on a lathe.

[Terence McGee]

It can be difficult to apply beeswax from these chunks... You'll have to get the right consistency so you can spread it evenly on your project's surface. I think that that product is used by manufacturers/formulators.

For wood projects, it's best to stick to commercial finishes like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Furniture-Clinic-Traditional-Beeswax-Polish/dp/B07JMFKMD4/

Also, beeswax can melt at high temperatures, so keep your climate in mind when using this finish. Keep your project away from the sunlight, too. The finish doesn't also doesn't last very long, so you'll have to maintain and retouch your project every now and then.

For woodturning projects, I often turn to Danish oil or lacquer. For a food-safe finish, Tung or walnut oil as well as shellac are good options.

[Reed Gray]

I had to look on the jug, but I use the Doctor's "Microcrystal Wax Bowl Finish". The doctor, because he has a PHD in Chemistry. He does some thing to his carnauba wax so that you don't need heat or solvents to get it to flow/spread.

robo hippy

[Bill Howatt]

Anybody want to try this: beeswax, carnauba and walnut/tung oil. Says its easy to apply and buff - no endorsement but looks interesting.
https://woodshopmike.com/how-to-make-non-toxic-paste-wax/

[John Kananis]

Great, I found it - thanks for the direction, Reed. Is this the only finish you use for turnings?


I had to look on the jug, but I use the Doctor's "Microcrystal Wax Bowl Finish". The doctor, because he has a PHD in Chemistry. He does some thing to his carnauba wax so that you don't need heat or solvents to get it to flow/spread.

robo hippy

[Reed Gray]

I use it on bowls and rolling pins. OH, cutting boards also. I make end grain ones, and put it on with a heat gun after it has soaked most of it up.

robo hippy

[John Kananis]

Great, thank you again.


I use it on bowls and rolling pins. OH, cutting boards also. I make end grain ones, and put it on with a heat gun after it has soaked most of it up.

robo hippy

[Don Stephan]

John

Are you after a particular look? Would the beeswax be for items likely to handled often? Washed?

[John Kananis]

Hey Don, I'm just experimenting really. I've been watching a bunch of Richard Raffan videos and noticed he uses it so figured I'd give it a whirl.


John

Are you after a particular look? Would the beeswax be for items likely to handled often? Washed?