Major upgrade- Grizzly 24” bandsaw has arrived

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I will do a video once we get the 3-phase wired up, but here is how big the 24” 7.5hp Grizzly bandsaw is. No photos I found online really showed the true size. For anyone wondering if it will fit in the shop- it is 83.5” tall. The crate adds about 6” (4” pallet and 2” additional crate height.). Our door is 93” high, so she squeezed right in. The large mobile base does fit with the extension rail kit added to one side.

I am really impressed so far with the build quality. The table is beautifully machined, as is the fence.

The saw next to it is the Rikon professional 14” 3hp, and that’s not forced perspective- the two saws are barely a foot apart. I stand 5’7” and my vertical arm reach is about 7 feet.

513277 513278

ugh. The sideways bug strikes again. Tilt your head. I am on the phone and can’t rotate the pic.

Three strong men can slide it off the pallet without equipment. We used 2x4’s to elevate the saw and built the rolling base around it. Sorry- didn’t get a pic of it with the rolling base yet. After attaching the rolling base, I used a 2x4 to leverage the other 2x4’s out from under it. Worked like a charm.

The Rikon is a true champion, but after sawing yellow birch veneers for 14 doors, we said it was time to go big.

[John TenEyck]

That's going to be great addition to your shop, Malcolm. Looking forward to your review after you get a chance to use it some. I'm sure you'll be as impressed as I am with my little G0636X.

John

[Jim Becker]

Congrats! That appears to be a workhorse beast and will be a nice addition to your growing enterprise.

[glenn bradley]

That's great. Congrats!

[Richard Coers]

Congratulations! I'd temper the excitement a little until you run it. Vibration in the cast wheels can be a real issue.

[Tom M King]

A 14" and a 24" may both be bandsaws, but it's really like two different categories of woodworking. Using the best resaw blades I had, the same cut that took a little over 20 seconds on the 14" took less than 2 on the 24" and that was before I started running the 24" 10% over blade speed.

[Nick Crivello]

A 14" and a 24" may both be bandsaws, but it's really like two different categories of woodworking. Using the best resaw blades I had, the same cut that took a little over 20 seconds on the 14" took less than 2 on the 24" and that was before I started running the 24" 10% over blade speed.

Wow. I wouldn't have expected that.

[Michael Burnside]

Wow. I wouldn't have expected that.

All other things equal, the blade is moving through the wood at 40%+ faster, but I’m sure there are other things giving the larger saw an advantage.

[Tom M King]

Larger blade with bigger teeth and deeper gullets with much higher blade speed.

[Richard Coers]

A 14" and a 24" may both be bandsaws, but it's really like two different categories of woodworking. Using the best resaw blades I had, the same cut that took a little over 20 seconds on the 14" took less than 2 on the 24" and that was before I started running the 24" 10% over blade speed.
Less than 2 seconds to resaw something? I'd like to see a video.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Got it powered up. Some vibration- not much. The big disappointment is the blade that comes with the saw is just horrible. The 14” 3hp cut faster with a proper blade. Ordering a quality blade and will reserve comments until it arrives. It does track perfect and I can make a thin veneer in hard maple, but the blade is just as if it isn’t even sharpened, and has a lot of scratches all over it from either poor manufacturing or poor handling before being installed at the factory.

[John TenEyck]

Got it powered up. Some vibration- not much. The big disappointment is the blade that comes with the saw is just horrible. The 14” 3hp cut faster with a proper blade. Ordering a quality blade and will reserve comments until it arrives. It does track perfect and I can make a thin veneer in hard maple, but the blade is just as if it isn’t even sharpened, and has a lot of scratches all over it from either poor manufacturing or poor handling before being installed at the factory.

Stock blades are universally bad. Throw it out. If you want to resaw and cut veneer, get a Lennox Woodmaster CT. You will be amazed.

John

[John TenEyck]

Congratulations! I'd temper the excitement a little until you run it. Vibration in the cast wheels can be a real issue.

Companies have known how to balance wheels, crankshafts, all manner of things, for a good long time.

John

[Tom M King]

Less than 2 seconds to resaw something? I'd like to see a video.

I was just test cutting a pair of Cypress shingles out of a 6" wide 24" long board. The 24" sliced it as fast as I could push it through. The 14" with a 1/2" resaw blade took a bit over 20 seconds I think mostly just getting the sawdust cleared.

1" Woodmaster CT 1.3 TPI blade in the big guy.

[Andrew Hughes]

One of the best surprises with a large bandsaw is blade length.
If you can get a good regular carbon steel general purpose blade with a good weld it will last a long time.
Cutting clean wood. I get regular 3 snd 4 tpi from my saw service for 30$ 178 inches long. I get the blade unwelded and properly make a weld myself that would satisfy a perfectionist.
I like blades that run silent and steady.
Good luck always

[Andrew Hughes]

I would also like to add another point.
Big saw doesn't mean you have to save it for cutting large wood.
Some woodworkers think big machines are for big wide board like a jointer.
It's just not true.
Good luck

[Richard Coers]

I was just test cutting a pair of Cypress shingles out of a 6" wide 24" long board. The 24" sliced it as fast as I could push it through. The 14" with a 1/2" resaw blade took a bit over 20 seconds I think mostly just getting the sawdust cleared.

1" Woodmaster CT 1.3 TPI blade in the big guy.
I'd still like to see a video with a clock on it.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Stock blades are universally bad. Throw it out. If you want to resaw and cut veneer, get a Lennox Woodmaster CT. You will be amazed.

John

That’s the one I have in my cart!

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I would also like to add another point.
Big saw doesn't mean you have to save it for cutting large wood.
Some woodworkers think big machines are for big wide board like a jointer.
It's just not true.
Good luck

I agree, although the primary justification for the purchase was making veneers- lots of them. We are keeping the two smaller Rikons for smaller work and tight curves- mainly so we don’t have to change blades constantly. We were going to sell one but decided to keep it with a really narrow blade, keep the 3hp one with a slightly larger blade, and the Grizzly will mainly be for resawing and for cutting big curves, ie arched doors. My favorite saw I have ever used was a massive 33” Tannewitz that would run forever after you turned it off due to the inertia of the wheels and the non-functioning blade brake. (Was not my saw). It cut so fast and so smooth! I used that saw for massive doors and tiny detail work. It was the sole saw in that shop- very versatile saw.

[Jared Sankovich]

That’s the one I have in my cart!

I have the 21" [shopfox] version of that saw running a 1" 1.3t woodmaster CT. I think you will be happy with that combination.

[Alex Zeller]

Got it powered up. Some vibration- not much. The big disappointment is the blade that comes with the saw is just horrible. The 14” 3hp cut faster with a proper blade. Ordering a quality blade and will reserve comments until it arrives. It does track perfect and I can make a thin veneer in hard maple, but the blade is just as if it isn’t even sharpened, and has a lot of scratches all over it from either poor manufacturing or poor handling before being installed at the factory.

When I got my 19" Grizzy BS it had a fair bit of vibration. It also had the throw away blade. What I found was the urethane tires on the wheels were causing the vibrations. I removed them and ran the saw with the junk blade and it was smooth as silk. I could have gotten replacements from Grizzly but I bought a set of Blue Max tires and the saw is so smooth I can stand a dime up on edge, start the saw, let it run, and shut it off. The dime doesn't fall over but does want to poll off the table. I think you'll be very happy with the saw.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Hello all: I finally got the new blade- The Woodmaster Carbon Tipped 2TPI. It took longer than expected to receive the blade, but I am very pleased with it. We made literally over 100 yellow birch veneers with it this week, and it took half the time it took with the Rikon 3hp. ** The Rikon is a gem, and I love it, and I am keeping it, but for what we do, we needed a bigger saw.

The saw cuts true, runs quiet, and has very little vibration- and I mean even for a smaller saw, but for a saw this large, I expected SOME vibration, but it is minimal. We do have it on a mobile base, and I think floor mounting it would make the vibration almost unnoticeable. I haven't tried balancing a quarter on it, but I suspect it would probably balance.

The dust collection works fairly well with a dedicated 2hp Grizzly dust collector attached. There was dust inside the machine below the wheels after running a number of 88" long veneers. That's to be expected. I did have a little "whoopsie" where I THOUGHT I had turned on the dust collector, but apparently didn't hit the button well, and I ran a few veneers with no dust collection. I quickly noticed that it was raining sawdust out of the top of the saw, and that caused me to look over at the deflated dust collector! *I have a remote wired switch for the dust collection, so when I hit it I am not standing right at the dust collector. I vacuumed all that up and ran the rest of the veneers- over 100 of them. At the end the majority of the dust was from where the dust stayed in the kerf and when I opened the veneer up from the piece I was sawing, dust would pour out, so that's not a fault of the dust collection. Inside the saw there was a handfull of dust near the port where the port meets the vertical of the saw, and so there is a ledge there (*hard to explain). There was also dust in the bottom of the saw where it travelled along the blade and dumped as it came around the lower wheel. Again- that's just normal bandsaw stuff. I feel like the dust collection worked fine.

The blade brake has an off-switch so you can turn the saw off just by hitting the blade brake and not the stop button. I like that. The blade brake rubs on the tire and it smells like someone just did a burnout in the shop when you use it. Not sure if that will dissipate over time. I don't like it, mainly because I associate burning rubber smells with electrical problems, so I kind of wish it didn't make that smell when you use the blade brake. Honestly, I almost never use blade brakes since it's just me and my shopmate in the shop. If my daughter is there, I will stop the blade to be sure she doesn't get curious while I'm not looking, but she's past the age where I have to worry with that.

I would give this saw the highest marks, except for the absolutely awful blade they send it with. That is my ONLY complaint. It's not a big complaint, as I had planned to get a better blade anyway, but I was very let down when I had waited so long to try the saw, and I had friends there waiting to see it work. I took a piece of wood and did a test cut, and everyone looked at me like, "Um- is that all she can do." With the new blade, however, it's a beast. It cuts through 12" wide birch with little effort, and didn't wander in the cut. We did make an auxiliary fence for doing tall pieces, but that's kind of something I would do with any saw.

Will try to get a video- we are hugely busy right now, and I have to be honest and let you know I may forget.

[Jim Becker]

I think that manufacturers "throw in a band" just so they can say it's ready to cut. I have not seen anyone declare that a band that comes with a bandsaw "cuts well". LOL

'Glad that hefty band worked out and worked fast for you. The saw with a proper band for the job sounds like the perfect solution for your work!

[Alex Zeller]

I used the one that came with my 19" Grizzly to identify the urethane tires were bad. I removed the tires and put the blade on the cast wheels and the vibration was gone. I got a set of Blue Max tires (didn't bother calling Grizzly to get replacements under warranty) and haven't had an issue. Other than that the blade hasn't moved. I have some conduit that I put magnets on to stick the blades to.

[John TenEyck]

I'm pretty sure the tires on Malcolm's saw are vulcanized, like they are on my G0636X. If so, they are trued at the factory and the wheels run very smoothly.

Malcolm if you are getting sawdust stuck in the kerf, which falls out when you remove the veneer from the board at the end of the cut, your DC is not up to the task. You need in the range of 800 cfm to remove the dust from that saw. A 2 hp DC pulling through the two 4" ports on the saw is just about up to the task IF it's the only thing the DC is connected to at the time, and the piping is short enough that you don't have too much static pressure losses. I had to make a lot of changes in my 2 hp DC in order to capture all the dust out of my G0636X, but now the kerf and cabinet are clean, even cutting 12" wide veneer.

The 1.3 tpi Woodmaster CT will clear the sawdust better than the 2 tpi on wide veneer, too. It will cut faster and the finish will be every bit as good. They cost less, too. I know it sounds too good to be true, but several folks here will attest to how well it cuts.

John

[Tom Trees]

I'm pretty sure the tires on Malcolm's saw are vulcanized, like they are on my G0636X. If so, they are trued at the factory and the wheels run very smoothly.


John
I wasn't aware of that, and presumed that it was some butyl type rubber like compound, like what I thought the Centauro tires were,
but Erik has mentioned those aren't run of the mill either....
"the modern Centauro tires feel more like plastic than rubber (though they should be made from gold-inlaid graphene, for what Parts Pronto asks for them)."

*Assuming someone in the business, might perhaps have better contacts for bulk stock holders of supplies.
I've got a spare CO600 tire , and they seem to be pre dressed with some sort of grinding device, rather than moulded.
On the Canadian forum, member Stickman seems very knowledgable on the subject of what's real rubber, and what's not.
I would've thought Grizzly would make a point about that, if it's the case.

I'd sure be interested if there were some ligature on the subject, seeing as your machine is running so well,
I did have a look to see before, but perhaps missed that.
Cheers

Tom

[John TenEyck]

I wasn't aware of that, and presumed that it was some butyl type rubber like compound, like what I thought the Centauro tires were,
but Erik has mentioned those aren't run of the mill either....
"the modern Centauro tires feel more like plastic than rubber (though they should be made from gold-inlaid graphene, for what Parts Pronto asks for them)."

*Assuming someone in the business, might perhaps have better contacts for bulk stock holders of supplies.
I've got a spare CO600 tire , and they seem to be pre dressed with some sort of grinding device, rather than moulded.
On the Canadian forum, member Stickman seems very knowledgable on the subject of what's real rubber, and what's not.
I would've thought Grizzly would make a point about that, if it's the case.

I'd sure be interested if there were some ligature on the subject, seeing as your machine is running so well,
I did have a look to see before, but perhaps missed that.
Cheers

Tom

Well now I'm not sure. The tires on my saw are vulcanized. When I just went to look at the specs for it on Grizzly's website it says the current one has urethane tires. Then I looked at the specs for the 24" saw Malcolm has and there's a video about how to change tires on a bandsaw. So it seems they have changed things. Sorry for the confusion.

John

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I'm pretty sure the tires on Malcolm's saw are vulcanized, like they are on my G0636X. If so, they are trued at the factory and the wheels run very smoothly.

Malcolm if you are getting sawdust stuck in the kerf, which falls out when you remove the veneer from the board at the end of the cut, your DC is not up to the task. You need in the range of 800 cfm to remove the dust from that saw. A 2 hp DC pulling through the two 4" ports on the saw is just about up to the task IF it's the only thing the DC is connected to at the time, and the piping is short enough that you don't have too much static pressure losses. I had to make a lot of changes in my 2 hp DC in order to capture all the dust out of my G0636X, but now the kerf and cabinet are clean, even cutting 12" wide veneer.

The 1.3 tpi Woodmaster CT will clear the sawdust better than the 2 tpi on wide veneer, too. It will cut faster and the finish will be every bit as good. They cost less, too. I know it sounds too good to be true, but several folks here will attest to how well it cuts.

John

It is vulcanized rubber, because it smells like you did a burnout in the shop when you hit the brake!

I have a 2hp grizzly hooked directly to the saw with just enough flex hose to connect it. I know flex hose loses some CFM, but it’s directly connected to the dust collector right next to the saw. There is another saw connected, but I have a gate right at the dust collector. It pulls 1550 CFM according to Grizzly. The dust between the veneers is mostly happening on larger pieces, ie 10” and wider.

[Derek Kessler]

Congrats on the upgrade! That's a beast of a bandsaw. It's great to hear about the setup process, looking forward to see the video showing its performance.

[John TenEyck]

It is vulcanized rubber, because it smells like you did a burnout in the shop when you hit the brake!

I have a 2hp grizzly hooked directly to the saw with just enough flex hose to connect it. I know flex hose loses some CFM, but it’s directly connected to the dust collector right next to the saw. There is another saw connected, but I have a gate right at the dust collector. It pulls 1550 CFM according to Grizzly. The dust between the veneers is mostly happening on larger pieces, ie 10” and wider.


I thought they would be vulcanized if they are on mine. But it's strange why Grizzly would post a video for changing the tires on the page for your saw.

The brake looks to be the same type as on mine. The brake pedal is connected to a brake pad that presses on a hub behind the lower wheel. Whatever smell it's making isn't coming from the tire, fortunately.

Your DC is rated for 1550 cfm (hard to imagine for a 2 hp motor) in the test they run. That test is run with a very short section of piping and no backpressure on the exhaust side. It will never do that in real life. If they supplied a fan curve it would show that the flow drops in a hurry as static pressure increases. They do show in the manual for that DC that the maximum static pressure is 11", meaning that's the point of zero CFM. The maximum flow through a 4" dust port is 400 CFM. Both ports, if the DC can manage enough flow at the static pressure loss of those ports, will give 800 CFM, which is about what's needed to keep the dust from building up in the bottom of the saw. Since you have the DC hooked up as close as possible might just be enough.

That leaves the blade as the probable source of why dust is ending up between the veneers. It's pretty hard for a 2 tpi blade to clear the dust from a 10" cut. If it works, it works, but if you plan to saw a lot of wide veneer you'll get better performance from the 1.3 tpi blade. The quality will be the same, there will be less heat generated, and you'll be able to cut faster.

Enjoy the saw. I'm sure it will serve you well for many years.

John

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I thought they would be vulcanized if they are on mine. But it's strange why Grizzly would post a video for changing the tires on the page for your saw.

The brake looks to be the same type as on mine. The brake pedal is connected to a brake pad that presses on a hub behind the lower wheel. Whatever smell it's making isn't coming from the tire, fortunately.

Your DC is rated for 1550 cfm (hard to imagine for a 2 hp motor) in the test they run. That test is run with a very short section of piping and no backpressure on the exhaust side. It will never do that in real life. If they supplied a fan curve it would show that the flow drops in a hurry as static pressure increases. They do show in the manual for that DC that the maximum static pressure is 11", meaning that's the point of zero CFM. The maximum flow through a 4" dust port is 400 CFM. Both ports, if the DC can manage enough flow at the static pressure loss of those ports, will give 800 CFM, which is about what's needed to keep the dust from building up in the bottom of the saw. Since you have the DC hooked up as close as possible might just be enough.

That leaves the blade as the probable source of why dust is ending up between the veneers. It's pretty hard for a 2 tpi blade to clear the dust from a 10" cut. If it works, it works, but if you plan to saw a lot of wide veneer you'll get better performance from the 1.3 tpi blade. The quality will be the same, there will be less heat generated, and you'll be able to cut faster.

Enjoy the saw. I'm sure it will serve you well for many years.

John

Thanks for the feedback. Yes- I agree the CFM ratings are all kind of like those “peak hp” ratings for vacuums. My Harvey G700 pulls way more air than this 2hp Grizzly, but I seem to remember the Harvey was rated even less than the Grizzly. That said, I did a test with (a) sticking my hand at the dust port in the saw to see how much pull it had there, and (b) actually pouring some sawdust into the port at the saw to see how well it was pulling. I do agree that 2tpi versus 1.3 is the probable cause, and admittedly we were feeding fairly fast because we had so many veneers to make and if I were real honest I’d say maybe we fed a wee bit too fast sometimes!!! I wish I had gotten the 1.3 tpi, but we do a lot of smaller veneers and I thought this would have a smoother cut. Good to know the 1.3 does well- I may have to get one for wider veneers. We still have the Ridgid that I can keep a finer toothed blade on.

[John TenEyck]

Malcolm, these are 12" wide walnut veneer I cut on my saw with a 1" x 1.3 tpi CT. The blade was not new.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86vyayW9oOKMIouVuwIFCrMDLFqRd00LPuY2NoQ3687iD GNrLcscXJqrM-bncib0vGEqT0Bi7HzAliBi7zvaa705gS3RnyFlrR_4Va-v_d1DQTu251qzDpgumU3dDTl5P5iCClOwXzCSM8khQBnbNug0w =w1460-h821-s-no?authuser=1


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86slKKcjVEPfnbbXdtyEQvgKtAYw5duGQmrPLNmoUChUU yiPc4IHk-YVoAySQmklKkZOJIueeIMv5KEOlRGkVZiH3ILLTLlbS8YlUqdX dOjGHI1Qq1ecjUwztfXOmzLedr-axbJ2Yb11tkU5rBu-IDELQ=w1460-h821-s-no?authuser=1

0.10" thick with vary little variation.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85JYelOivT2UjXyjQ0KvK__dUA14SBvYHAwvIeaYDv6cP A0FCEZS45ANiouhbtZ8eJwK2PbdJ_dDKGOpU8eaeck8NElD8D1 gKOONiFvfTM5Q2mcGdGL0pizruA2qnfFDOb4LuUK0OivNB3yLb JiDcsD1g=w498-h885-s-no?authuser=1

John

[Malcolm Schweizer]

**** UPDATE ***** There was a problem- Grizzly did respond and sent parts.

I waited to do this update, because I wanted to give Grizzly all chances, and I didn't want to post this update before I had the saw running and problem was fixed. Short version- the start switch went bad.

Longer version:

First of all, Grizzly's tech support was VERY impressive. They didn't assume I was stupid and started from the top and worked down. What I mean is, he asked me if I had a test meter, and through similar questions, he was able to evaluate that I kind of knew my way around electronics, and he walked me through a test of the green start button, the e-stop, and the start switch. Now, here's where it gets a little weird- we determined that the e-stop was the problem. I tested it and it tested not sending power when on without stop switch activated. Fast forward- we later determined that the problem there was dust in the switch- or that's what we strongly suspected. SO- they sent me a new e-stop. My electrician is a friend, and he happened to come by, so we had him look at it. That's when he determined that the stop switch had dust in it, and we got the original e-stop working.

So- we called Grizzly back and they sent a new magnetic start switch. Unfortunately, they sent the wrong one. Now to this point that's really the only screw up from their tech department, because originally the stop switch did appear to be bad, so I don't blame the misdiagnosis. It just had dust in it. Sending the single phase mag switch instead of the three phase I blame them for, but they quickly sent another. By the way, Grizzly, if you're reading this, I still haven't gotten the return label for the wrong switch, so I'm keeping it in my shop!d

We got the new mag switch installed, and it works fine. So- here is where I want to be careful in what I say. I LOVE THIS SAW!!! It is a beast, and it is working great other than the switch issue. I am fully able to accept that things happen in manufacturing- switches go bad, even when new. Maybe I got the fluke. The response by Grizzly was quick and professional. They sent everything free of charge, except if I wanted expedited shippinig, I had to pay extra. No problem. HOWEVER: My electricain feels like the switch that comes with the saw is undersized, and that is only his opinion, and I can only wait and see how long the new switch lasts to determine if he is right, but he showed me a 7.5hp switch from a fan in another part of our warehouse, and it's much bigger and, for lack of better words, more robust. Now, to be fair to Grizzly, he isn't a tool designer, although he does work on this type of equipment and has experience with it. As of now, the new switch is working fine, and I'm not mad at Grizzly, but I felt it was pertinent to update this review to tell you what I did have happen.

Here is one thing I will say negative- I have a dust collector hooked directly to this saw. It has three feet of hose going to the saw. I still have tons of sawdust getting in the saw, and I determined that a lot of that is because where the dust collection is below the blade, there is a big gap even when the door is closed. I used duct tape to close that gap, and I kind of feel this would have been an easy fix in the design process of the saw. A baffle where I put duct tape would have made the dust collection work a lot better. Dust managed to get into the support column where the switches are, and dust got into the stop switch. We blew a lot of dust out of it.

Would I buy this saw again? Actually right now it's still a great value for the price I paid, and I would consider it again, but I will kind of wait and see how the switch works. We only had the saw maybe a month when the issue arose, but we did run hundreds of linear feet of yellow birch through it, making veneers 88 inches long. In fact, probably close to 500 linear feet. I am disappointed with how the dust collection port has a gap at the door (I will get a picture and update). That's a pretty easy fix, but I hate having to fix things on a new saw. For the price, there are not a lot of 3-phase saws out there, and this thing is a beast. It is incredibly accurate, and well-machined as far as alignment, table finish, and accuracy of the cut.

Hopefully this was a fair update. I don't want to say that because this one switch failed, that all of them will have this problem, but it happened, and I needed to update that it did happen. I have had quite a few Grizzly tools and this is the first magnetic switch failure I've had.


edit: Here is the switch I am referring to. If “magnetic switch” or “start switch” isn’t the right terminology, this photo is to clarify.

518560

This is where I taped the dust collection to close the gap between this and the door when closed. It works great and greatly reduced the dust in the saw. Grizzly, take notes.
518561

[John TenEyck]

Malcolm, glad to hear Grizzly was responsive to the problem and helped you get it sorted out quickly. A certain Italian made saw is well known for failed start switches, and a whole lot less responsive as far as CS.

I experienced poor dust collection with my 17" Grizzly until I improved my DC system. If you are having to tape off below the upper dust port that suggests to me that you don't have enough CFM. I get no build up in the saw. A little escapes to the outside but not more than a handful ever remains in the saw after an hour slicing 12" veneer. I don't even bother checking anymore. You need to have both 4" ports carrying their full capacity, which means about 700-800 cfm total.

John

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Malcolm, glad to hear Grizzly was responsive to the problem and helped you get it sorted out quickly. A certain Italian made saw is well known for failed start switches, and a whole lot less responsive as far as CS.

I experienced poor dust collection with my 17" Grizzly until I improved my DC system. If you are having to tape off below the upper dust port that suggests to me that you don't have enough CFM. I get no build up in the saw. A little escapes to the outside but not more than a handful ever remains in the saw after an hour slicing 12" veneer. I don't even bother checking anymore. You need to have both 4" ports carrying their full capacity, which means about 700-800 cfm total.

John

I am probably at minimum CFM for this saw with a 1.5 HP dust collector, but the gap where the dust collection is was a big difference in dust collection working or not working. I have the collector directly hooked to this saw. I still feel the gap where I taped it up is an area of improvement. I have maxed out the breaker box without doing a long run to another box, so I'm not going to upgrade the dust collection any time soon. Now that I taped up where there was a big gap, it works fairly well. The problem is where I taped up, there would be a 1/4" or more gap when the door is shut. The door is what closes that "V" off, and without any sort of seal, it just doesn't do that. I don't get why they don't make it with a faceplate to match what I did with the tape.

[Clint Baxter]

**** UPDATE ***** There was a problem- Grizzly did respond and sent parts.
edit: Here is the switch I am referring to. If “magnetic switch” or “start switch” isn’t the right terminology, this photo is to clarify.

518560



I have a motor starter in the shop that looks identical to that one. It, however, is only powering a 2HP, single phase, Oneida Dust cyclone. I worked on many motor starters and agree that for that size of motor, would expect to see a much more robust device.

As you stated in your post, however, time will tell the story,

Clint

[John TenEyck]

I am probably at minimum CFM for this saw with a 1.5 HP dust collector, but the gap where the dust collection is was a big difference in dust collection working or not working. I have the collector directly hooked to this saw. I still feel the gap where I taped it up is an area of improvement. I have maxed out the breaker box without doing a long run to another box, so I'm not going to upgrade the dust collection any time soon. Now that I taped up where there was a big gap, it works fairly well. The problem is where I taped up, there would be a 1/4" or more gap when the door is shut. The door is what closes that "V" off, and without any sort of seal, it just doesn't do that. I don't get why they don't make it with a faceplate to match what I did with the tape.


Most folks are running much larger DC systems than what you have hooked to it. Moving the sawdust requires CFM and velocity. Restricting the inlet air will reduce CFM. You've found a compromise that works for the CFM and static pressure your DC operates at, but it wouldn't be a good solution for larger DC systems. I have a 2 hp 1200 cfm DC and it couldn't remove all the sawdust either when I first hooked it up. I did a bunch of static pressure testing and found the bag filters and cyclone were robbing a significant amount of flow. That prompted me to reconfigure the whole thing, including eliminating the bag filters and blowing the air outside. After that, I had enough CFM at the bandsaw to handle the sawdust w/o a problem.

John

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Most folks are running much larger DC systems than what you have hooked to it. Moving the sawdust requires CFM and velocity. Restricting the inlet air will reduce CFM. You've found a compromise that works for the CFM and static pressure your DC operates at, but it wouldn't be a good solution for larger DC systems. I have a 2 hp 1200 cfm DC and it couldn't remove all the sawdust either when I first hooked it up. I did a bunch of static pressure testing and found the bag filters and cyclone were robbing a significant amount of flow. That prompted me to reconfigure the whole thing, including eliminating the bag filters and blowing the air outside. After that, I had enough CFM at the bandsaw to handle the sawdust w/o a problem.

John


One thing with bandsaws- they make a very small pebble of a sawdust. It reminds me of termite poop. (Sorry, but that’s what it looks like.) The problem is that it has little surface area to be pulled by the air. I have learned that it takes more CFM’s to move these little round sawdust particles than it does to move big chips. Oh to know all I know now many years ago!

[Tom M King]

I have a general rule of thumb I use on dust collection:

Less than 3hp is wishful thinking.

[Curt Harms]

I think that manufacturers "throw in a band" just so they can say it's ready to cut. I have not seen anyone declare that a band that comes with a bandsaw "cuts well". LOL

'Glad that hefty band worked out and worked fast for you. The saw with a proper band for the job sounds like the perfect solution for your work!

I've heard or read that the blades that come on new saws is mostly just to keep the upper wheel from flopping around during shipment. If they actually cut decently it's a bonus. Besides, everybody needs at least one 'nail finder' blade.