Anyone Tried Orange Oil

[John Hart]

I was browsing through the aisles yesterday and came across a bottle of 100% Orange Oil, intended for funiture finishing. The ingredients said "100% Orange Oil". So I got to thinking about the thread regarding Purpleheart and acid treatments to preserve the original color and wondered if this might do the trick since citric acid would be present in this type of oil.
Anyway...just wondering if anyone had any experience with this.

[Curt Fuller]

John, I know nothing about Orange Oil as a finish but it's used to help restore the finish on a lot of antique restorations.
Also, concerning the Purpleheart and keeping its color. This may be repetitive of other posts but at the last turning club meeting a guy told us that you can put a couple applications of Armor-All (like you use on your car) on woods like Purpleheart to preserve the color. The UV blockers in the Armor-All will prevent the photo reaction in the wood. Then you can apply whatever finish over the top.

[Gary DeWitt]

Manufacturers seem fond of touting "100%" this or that, I'm usually skeptical. "100%" tung oil usually isn't.
Havn't used orange oil, but it must smell wonderful.
Have used Howard's paste wax, has a strong citrus component with a great smell, LOML likes it much better than Johnsons.
I used it on a crib I made over an oil finish about 6 years ago, hasn't darkend significantly and is still protecting the wood as well as a wax can. Looks as good as the day I finished it.

[Bill Stevener]

Hi John,

No experience with the noted products in use with Purple-heart. Only with there intended use.

However, I will begin some experiments with the same this week. All tests will be conducted using sample areas along a run of the same piece of wood.

I have book marked this thread and will post the results, when any obvious changes are observed.

Something interesting to try.

Bill.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>:)

[Mark Singer]

Yes and my stomach is much better;)

John we use it on furniture for mainteance

[tod evans]

don`t ya mix that with rum and put one of those little paper umbrellas in it???????

[John Hart]

don`t ya mix that with rum and put one of those little paper umbrellas in it???????

Yup...That's what I've been doing! But it doesn't make my hollowforms look any better. Just kinda fuzzy.:confused:

thanks everyone. Bill...I appreciate you running your experiment. I'm looking forward to your results. I think I'd like to give it a whirl on some Cherry since it seems to oxidize quicker. I guess we'll see!

[Bill Stevener]

John, this is the layout. One strip of Purple-heart, 3/8"tk x 2"w x 36"L , sanded to expose the natural color of the wood and wiped down with acetone, as to remove traces of the natural oils which may have some influence on the products being tested. 6 test areas will be reserved, being 2" sq. with 1" separating the same, every other 1" space will be covered with masking tape and will remain in place during the experiment, using 18" of the strip. The same will be conducted using the remaining 18", then divided. One strip will be subject to sun light, (if we get any) the other strip will be retained in darkness. Each of the test areas will receive a finish coat of lacquer, except for one, of which will be a finish coat of urethane, with out any of the noted test products pre applied.

Four (4) of the test areas are taken. Orange Oil, Lemon Juice, Armor-All and Urethane. This leaves two (2) remaining test areas. Any takers, other products one wishes to be tested.

I will leave the Cherry to you or someone else, as I don't like to apply any finish that will inhibit the natural change in the wood. I do in fact like to subject cherry to direct sunlight after finishing, as that seems to bring out its natural beauty and color.

I will wait a day or two to see if anyone has another product or two to try, if not I may think of something.

This should be very interesting.

Bill.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>:)

[Bill Stevener]

The Purple-heart experiment is already beginning to become interesting.

Within the last hour I thought I would prep the piece I had in mind for use during the experiment. The piece of Purple-heart (1/4 - 3/8"tk) was standing in the leftovers rack for about two years. The piece exhibited some great purple color. Passing it through the drum sander, I noticed the color was beginning to disappear. Turned the piece over to try the other surface and the same results were encountered, revealing the dreaded chocolate to walnut color.

Note the first exhibit in the experiment, not color enhanced:

Very early, and not so scientific theory at this time:

I believe the color is retained in the oil in the wood, as one can pull the color and have it evidenced on the cloth used in the wiping process with acetone.
I believe the oil dissipates from the wood after time, taking the color with it. Faster in a thin piece and even more evident in a piece such as a pen.

The acid may have an etching effect, as to break down the oil and allow the color to dye the fibers in the wood, where as the same will maintain the color, long after the oil has left.

The Armor-All may slow down the dissipation - evaporation? process of the oil, allowing the wood to maintain the color for a longer period of time, as it does when applied to a tire.

From the start of the experiment, it appears the thicker the piece the longer it may maintain its color, when gone, this is only a skin effect.

I will continue the experiment, with pieces of a greater thickness, which should have maintained some of the oils.

So much from your mad scientist,:eek:

Bill.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>:)

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Bill ....try acetic acid......vinegar..................

[Bill Stevener]

Ken, do you think that may be any different then the acid of a lemon? If so I will try it in sample block no. five.

Bill.>>>>>>>>>>>>:)

[John Hart]

Bill, I think this experiment is going to prove valuable. Already, you've determined that the oil in the wood is key (and I think you are right) Preservation of that oil might be what folks need to think about when applying final finishes and ensuring a good seal. Can't wait to see the other results. I'm going to check with some of the chemists today and see what the subtle differences are between acetic and citric acid on natural dyes. They should have some answers. I'll let you know.

[Gary Max]

Bill try this---it won't waste anything but a little time.
Take a brown piece and sit it out in the sun for 2 hours.
It will turn purple of course you will have to turn it over and do both sides.

Oh John---what Mark said---it works great for cleaning and protecting wood.

[Rob Bourgeois]

Acetic will just allow you to test pH ( acid) effects. Citric acid is also a great way to test if stopping oxidation effects. Do them both and you might be able to tease out if the acid is the key or the ability to retard oxidation.

You should also do a sample that has something that you know wont work from your passed experiment. This allows you to make sure the wood is behaving as expected.

You might also try a base such as baking soda or a mild lye solution or maybe ammonia also. Try to cover as many class of chemicals as possible.

/former biologist that likes setting up experiments just not writing up the paper after.:rolleyes:

[Bill Stevener]

John, awaiting your answer on the acid.

Gary, the test piece is out in the sun, cold out, however sunny.

Rob, I hope to test several other chemicals, another one suggestion was Muriatic acid, sounds rather potent. This experiment may well go up in smoke or just disappear. :eek:

Bill.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>:)

[John Hart]

Well...I just had a conversation with one of our Molecular Biologists. His biggest problem with the question, was that I was asking him to guess, based on little or no chemistry information and no real understanding of the problem.
For instance...What makes Purpleheart turn Brown? Is it oxidation or UV bombardment? If it's oxidation, (the act of one molecule picking up an extra electron), you could use an acid to try and get the dye molecule to bond with the wood in some way.
But if it is UV, then the only real preventive measure is to coat with something that blocks UV...you know...Black spray paint ;)

Anyway...he said that we might want to give Boric Acid a try. Just dissolve it in some water and rub it on and see if that will make the purple dye bond with the wood.
He's going to give me lab-grade samples of Acetic, Citric, and Boric to give a try...But he recommends not using the Acetic cuz you can get hurt if it gets on your skin. Boric is no problem as long as you rinse it off if you get some on you...And it is readily available in grocery stores in its pure form.

Anyway...That's what I've found out so far. More to come I reckon. Nuthin' like a little lab work to break up your day! :)

[Ken Fitzgerald]

John....correct me if I'm wrong......Acetic acid......vinegar?

[John Hart]

John....correct me if I'm wrong......Acetic acid......vinegar?

Well...yeah...Vinegar is Acetic acid and would probably work ok. But he was suggesting trying pure Lab-Grade Acetic Acid to get a purer test. In this case, it's kinda corrosive.

[Rob Bourgeois]

Ken you are correct. Vinegar is typically about 5% acetic acid. The stuff that John is gettting will be "glacial acetic acid" and very thick and strong. However if you dilute it its essentially vinegar in strength.

JOhn you can dilute that lab grade stuff with Deionized water adn it would be less strong but still test the same thing.

[Bill Stevener]

John, great info. 10 - 4 on the black paint. I just may strap a piece on to my truck battery for a year. :D

I'll tell ya, my old high school chemistry teacher would be proud of me. :rolleyes:

The tests go on,

Bill.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>:)