Waxing jointer tables?

[Yuri Strukov]

Hello,

Would it be a good idea to coat the polished cast iron jointer tables (and table saw surface) with wax or oil to prevent rust? This is what the manual suggests. If yes, is it assumed that every time before use the wax/oil have to be completely removed? I thought that any small amount of wax or oil on wood is going to interfere with gluing (and finishing later).

Would appreciate any comment or suggestion! Thank you!
Happy New Year and Best wishes,
ys

[Mel Fulks]

Hello,

Would it be a good idea to coat the polished cast iron jointer tables (and table saw surface) with wax or oil to prevent rust? This is what the manual suggests. If yes, is it assumed that every time before use the wax/oil have to be completely removed? I thought that any small amount of wax or oil on wood is going to interfere with gluing (and finishing later).

Would appreciate any comment or suggestion! Thank you!
Happy New Year and Best wishes,
ys

Yes it’s a good idea , but it has to be done right ! When you are finished jointing edges that will be glued use denatured alcohol or
something else to clean the wood surfaces that will be glued as waxes and sprays are often applied and , and needed. But have no place on a surface
that will be glued.

[John Kananis]

Wax everything, literally everything from the bottom of your hand planes, to jointer beds to anything that's cast iron or that wood moves over (paraffin is what my go to is). I've never had to clean up my stock before applying glue.

[Mel Fulks]

John ,that is interesting and I’m sure some will try it. I worked for a family run company that had been in business a long time and they
did not like, or tolerate, wax. But they had 3 jointers and at least two of them were beasts and made of that mechanite stuff that is
always slick , except when coated with pitch !

[andy bessette]

I prefer to use Bostik TopCote or GlideCote on machine surfaces.

[Kevin Jenness]

I use a thin coat of paste wax, let it dry a few minutes and buff it out with a rag. Never had a problem with glue joints. Whatever amount may get transferred to the wood is too miniscule to be a problem.

[Jim Becker]

Wax is certainly something that many folks use to keep their cast iron surfaces in good condition. Some of us use "for purpose" products, like Boshield T9 as an alternative. "What" you use is less important than doing the regular maintenance necessary to keep things clean, rust free and protected from moisture.

[Joel Gelman]

This has been discussed on other forums. I have used a number of things over the years. I was advised more recently to use Rensaissance wax and use a Festool sander with the Green Vlies with he application process. Wonderful results.

I apply, buff, wipe off with a paper towel (towel is black and the machine is nicer looking. Repeat the process. I never get quite clear paper towels and do not seek that, but in the end, with really not too much effort, I get a nice looking machine with a very smooth very low friction surface (especially helpful with planers) and without chemical issues.

[John Kananis]

Hey Mel, I've found that a lot of our own methodology is personal bias. That's why if you ask ten competent woodworkers the best way to cut a tenon, you'll get fourteen different answers. If you think something can be a problem, you'll develop a methodology to avoid it imho.


John ,that is interesting and I’m sure some will try it. I worked for a family run company that had been in business a long time and they
did not like, or tolerate, wax. But they had 3 jointers and at least two of them were beasts and made of that mechanite stuff that is
always slick , except when coated with pitch !

[Andrew Hughes]

I keep a coat of paste wax on my jointer tables it dried hard and keep the tables from rusting. My shop isn’t insulated I’ve found it necessary. I also keep a coat of shellac on all the handles,knobs and wheels it seems to last longer then wax.
Good Luck

[mike stenson]

Wax helps keep the friction low, but for rust I just gave up and make dust covers. It's the dust that's the problem. The shellac is a great idea for the handles, hardware, etc. Thanks!

[Larry Edgerton]

I prefer to use Bostik TopCote or GlideCote on machine surfaces.

Andy, I have been using B'laster dry lube with with Teflon for a few years now. Same as Bostic but 1/3 the cost. Silicone free. There is another B'laster product like it that has silicone, avoid that.

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-TDL-12PK-Advanced-Lube-Teflon/dp/B00HF41DFK/ref=asc_df_B00HF41DFK&mcid=20240c524b6839a1885a223586bc1d45?tag=bingshop pinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80264538847854&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583864005120036&th=1

[Robyn Horton]

I use Butchers Bowling Alley wax and Felder Silber-Gleit on Jointer and Planer tables, Table saw, Band saw. The Silber-Gleit is super slick after a few applications. Never use an automotive wax that has silicone on your cast iron where wood is going to be in contact or you will have fish eye problems during the painting process.

[Brian W Evans]

Paste wax for me: apply, wait until it gets cloudy, buff. I use a random orbit buffer but hand buffing works just as well.

I would hate to have to push a wide board through my jointer without waxing the tables first. A slick surface makes a huge difference. Same with the table and band saws.

No problems with glue-ups here, either. Just avoid silicone.

[andy bessette]

Larry--thanks for the tip.

[glenn bradley]

I'm in SoCal so my schedule may or may not be right for you. I paste wax my machines about twice a year when doing regular maintenance; oiling rollers, greasing threads, checking nuts and bolts for torque, etc. It's usually one day of an annoying lube-fest. I will on-the-spot wax machine surfaces that are not nice and slick. You don't want to have to shove your material through the cutters.

[Bill Dufour]

Climate? I only apply wax is summer if the wood is dragging when it is pushed. In winter I apply it more often to prevent rust.
Bill D

[Richard Coers]

No wax on the jointer in my shop, but I control the humidity so I don't rust up my machines. Rust on machinery is about the dew point. Warm moist air on cold cast iron, and it flash over with rust in minutes. At my day job, the building AC was shut down over a long weekend holiday. When we came in, every bit of machinery was covered with rust. So bad on a giant knee mill, that you could see streaks of rust on the mill and puddles of rust on the floor. Took two of us a week to clean up the mess. If you just put a strip of cardboard on the tables, it prevents the moisture from settling on the cold steel. An alternative is to use baby powder on the cast iron. Absorbs the moisture and fills the pores of the cast iron so it feels really slick.

[John TenEyck]

I keep all my cast iron surfaces waxed. Jointer/planer, tablesaw, bandsaws, whatever. Not for rust prevention, to make things slide easier. I used to apply the wax, wait for it to dry, then buff it off, but then I guy in a commercial shop told me to apply it and go back to work, that there wouldn't be any problems. You know what? He was right. I've never had a problem with glue not sticking, whatever. And if you've never tried Lundmark paste wax you should. It's amazing stuff.

Wax makes things slide so much easier. Easier is safer.

John

[jack duren]

I just use Johnson’s paste wax as I need it. At work shop ever so often if the machine is used a lot, at home just once in awhile unless I’m fdoing a big job for a customer..

[Lee Schierer]

I've used Johnson Paste wax on all my cast iron and some wood and varnished table surfaces for years to reduce friction. On cast iron it helps resist rusting. For long term storage, I would recommend using Boeshield T-9. Spray on a heavy wet coat on the entire surface and leave it to dry. The next time you want to use that machine spray the surface with more T-9 and wipe it all off.

I rub an old candle on my aluminum snow shovels and then place the snow shovel under the oven broiler just long enough to liquefy the wax. Snow doesn't stick the surface and you don't have to renew it for many years.

[John TenEyck]

I've used Johnson Paste wax on all my cast iron and some wood and varnished table surfaces for years to reduce friction. On cast iron it helps resist rusting. For long term storage, I would recommend using Boeshield T-9. Spray on a heavy wet coat on the entire surface and leave it to dry. The next time you want to use that machine spray the surface with more T-9 and wipe it all off.

I rub an old candle on my aluminum snow shovels and then place the snow shovel under the oven broiler just long enough to liquefy the wax. Snow doesn't stick the surface and you don't have to renew it for many years.

Try Lundmark, Lee. I doubt you'll ever use Johnson's again for anything. Lundmark is easy on, amazingly easy off, much harder than Johnson's, and doesn't show fingerprints.

John

[jack duren]

Is there anything as soft as Johnson’s?

Believe me, I don’t waste what’s left.

[Cameron Wood]

Try Lundmark, Lee. I doubt you'll ever use Johnson's again for anything. Lundmark is easy on, amazingly easy off, much harder than Johnson's, and doesn't show fingerprints.

John

I was just waxing machine tables with the nearly empty can of Johnson's, & wondering where to get more, so I'll give it a try- thanks.

[Mel Fulks]

Johnson’s Wax is on Ebay for ONLY 60 dollars

[Lee Schierer]

Try Lundmark, Lee. I doubt you'll ever use Johnson's again for anything. Lundmark is easy on, amazingly easy off, much harder than Johnson's, and doesn't show fingerprints.

John

Wow, that's a interesting wax. I also have a 3/4 can of Butcher's Wax for bowling allies. It is also a Carnauba based wax. Between my two cans, I probably have enough for another 30-40 years or so for table waxing. I think the Johnsons I have now was purchased in 1985 or so.

[Bob Jones 5443]

I don’t think anyone has mentioned Briwax or Liberon paste wax. I’ve had the same can of each in the shop for probably 20 years. Whenever I can feel any lessening of slickness on table saw, jointer, or band saw, I wipe on the thinnest possible coat, give it twenty minutes, and buff with a terry cloth towel. I also wax the bearing strips on the fence rail. I keep waiting to see someone say it’s the wrong thing for the task, but so far, no ill effects. Also, I’ve never had a problem with wax getting on the work pieces. The suggestion in an earlier post to wipe down with mineral oil before glue-up sounds like a good idea to me, though.

Still, there is one caution. My fence table on the Unisaw is covered with a sheet of vinyl (linoleum?) used in low-cost kitchen counters. I found out the hard way that the wax products contain petroleum distillates to dry the wax, but they tend to dissolve the vinyl. Yikes. So I stick to the cast iron and stay clear of the extension.

For hand tools (chisels, bench plane soles and irons, marking knives, spokeshave blades, Starrett straightedge, dovetail saws, Forstner bits, router bits, even band saw blades while they’re on the saw, etc.), after using or sharpening (if applicable) and fully drying if needed, I run the tool over my Altoids can that holds the folded cloth lightly soaked with camelia oil, followed by a light wipe with a clean towel. One 8 oz spray bottle has lasted me since 2008 so far. It’s still 3/4 full.

I tell myself that it’s my care of tools that keeps the rust away (there is none in my garage shop), but it’s more likely just my luck for living in the Bay Area.

[jack duren]

If ai remember Briwax was hard…

[John TenEyck]

Wow, that's a interesting wax. I also have a 3/4 can of Butcher's Wax for bowling allies. It is also a Carnauba based wax. Between my two cans, I probably have enough for another 30-40 years or so for table waxing. I think the Johnsons I have now was purchased in 1985 or so.


Butchers Wax is good stuff, too, but you have to put it on very, very sparingly because it's really hard to buff off it you put it on too thick. It wasn't until I tried Lundmark that I found out how easy it can be. Sounds like you're set for life, though.

Both Butchers and Lundmark are white in the can. I don't know about Renaissance, or others, but Johnson's lost me when they reformulated to that ugly green, or at least it was the last time I saw it.

Happy New Year, all.

John

[Pat Germain]

I used the same can of Johnson's paste wax I bought in 1993 for all my machines. It ran out only a few months ago. It always kept the rust away and I NEVER had a problem with wax getting on any the wood. I just let it dry and buffed it thoroughly.

I tried to find Minwax paste wax, but nobody has in stock locally and it can't be shipped to my address. Just yesterday I picked up a can of bowling alley wax at my local Woodcraft. There are many treatments for cast iron. It appears they work well, but so does paste wax and it's a lot less expensive.

[jack duren]

Bowling alley wax as soft as Johnson’s?

[John Kananis]

I have a can of the minwax (the pink stuff, right?). It's OK but I miss my Johnson's. I'm ordering a can of that Lundmark to try it out.


I used the same can of Johnson's paste wax I bought in 1993 for all my machines. It ran out only a few months ago. It always kept the rust away and I NEVER had a problem with wax getting on any the wood. I just let it dry and buffed it thoroughly.

I tried to find Minwax paste wax, but nobody has in stock locally and it can't be shipped to my address. Just yesterday I picked up a can of bowling alley wax at my local Woodcraft. There are many treatments for cast iron. It appears they work well, but so does paste wax and it's a lot less expensive.

[Bill Dufour]

FYI: Johnsons paste wax is RIP. No longer made.
Bill D

[jack duren]

Gone for awhile, why I’m curious if one is as soft as Johnson’s paste wax. Some of the other waxes I’ve actually had to take a heat gun to in winter to soften it up.

[Warren Lake]

johnsons till it ran out, miss the smell then used Beauty shine water base carnuba that I was given where i learned to detail. Pink 502 total carnuba. Its dried out now so just use parafin. Shop has hit 94 percent humidity a few times in bad summer times. I saw a few Cumulo Nimbus clouds.

[Bill Dufour]

I saw a few Cumulo Nimbus clouds.[/QUOTE]
Warren, do you work in a blimp hanger? I hear they can get light fog inside.
Bill D.

[Alex Zeller]

The rust subject has come up a number of times. A few years ago someone made the suggestion of using magnetic vinyl sign material. It took a bit of searching to get a sheet big enough to cover my table saw (24" wide is easy to come by) but I found some and now use that. Since doing so I never have a problem with rust. Every cast iron table has it's own cut to size cover. They are nice because when you remove them to use the machine you can stick them to the side of the machine. As for making wood slide easier, I've used Johnson's in the past and when the can is empty I'll look for something else. But i rarely apply it.

[Warren Lake]

HI Bill
wish I did then id have more room. The old guy said the shop he ran was as large as an aircraft hanger or maybe he said football field. He showed me once where it was and it was pretty close to where I grew up.

One thing about rust on machines they wont all be the same as diff quality steel. Ive seen stuff soaking wet a few times but over all the machines put up with it pretty well.

[Bill Dufour]

I was glad to hear that Hanger One in Sunnyvale will be fully restored. I think Google will pay for it and get to use a few acres for themselves. I do like the doors.
BilLD

[Rod Sheridan]

Paste wax works well and I used it for decades, that said I switched to Silber Gleit from Felder and it works much better.

It honestly resembles a Slushie drink, comes in a 1 litre can which is a lifetime supply.

Regards, Rod

[Michael Drew]

I've been seriously pondering the use of Carbon Method 9.... Now that I have a 'new' water stain on my new jointer, I'm going to order some and coat all my machines.

YouTuber - Brent's Woodworking posted a 9 month, post application review not too long ago. The stuff seems to work well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0oARF_W5uk&list=PLTPzh0trc21uQUl88yPhcBWUkia4Y25bs&index=33

https://carbonmethod.com/

[Tom Bender]

So to summarize, we use every kind of wax and nobody actually has finishing problems as a result.

[andy bessette]

So to summarize, we use every kind of wax and nobody actually has finishing problems as a result.

Nobody admits to having finishing problems (or does any finishing). I personally don't do any finishing.

[Lee Schierer]

So to summarize, we use every kind of wax and nobody actually has finishing problems as a result.

Every kind that doesn't have any silicone or water in it.