Adjustable T&G set, 8"ish, with capabilities from 3/8-3/4?

[Larry Edgerton]

I make t&g for the back of cabinets often so the widths work out perfect and out of exotics mostly. Just set up a Paudauk run this morning. Not something I do often, maybe 4-5 times a year. I have the Freud set and they do good until I get to the crazy grained stuff or wood like Padauk that blows out easily. Often it is 3/8"ish as I resaw 4/4. I can search, but I want to know if you have ones you like/hate. Again, looking for larger diameters, I can swing 10, but in the 8" range would be fine. Thanks!

[Warren Lake]

high speed steel, corg head. Think the heads I use are 4 or 5 inch. They will cut clean and not blow out. Oh its not adjustable just different knives for Diff sizes.

Had to do it without the knives in the beginning saw and router but mickey mouse compared. Id think if you want a large sized head a schmidt coping disc would work well think they allow up to 1" of cutting knife surface.

[Rod Sheridan]

I use an adjustable groover that’s 200mm in diameter to make the groove, then the two pieces can be inverted with a spacer between to make the tongue in one pass.

It has insert carbide cutters, mine is from Felder however there are many other vendors as well

Regards, Rod

[Larry Edgerton]

I want it with a 45 degree chamfer. I have large groovers, but that does not leave me with the beveled edge.

[Joe Calhoon]

Hi Larry, I do this with my 20 year old Garniga Multi Use head. It has grooving knives from 3mm up to 8mm so doing 3/8” thick is possible. Also does the chamfers. I have insert tooling for the 4 sider for this but for small quantities usually go to the shaper.
I’ll get some pictures today.

[John Pendery]

Hi Larry, I do this with my 20 year old Garniga Multi Use head. It has grooving knives from 3mm up to 8mm so doing 3/8” thick is possible. Also does the chamfers. I have insert tooling for the 4 sider for this but for small quantities usually go to the shaper.
I’ll get some pictures today.


Joe, is your Garniga Multi Use head the equivalent of the Multi Use cutter that Rangate offers today? I recently purchased this cutter and it’s quickly become my go to for lots of different operations. Just scratching the surface with it I think.

[Joe Calhoon]

John, pretty much the same with a couple improvements. I will get some pictures and post tonight. Expensive cutterhead but useful for many things.

[Mike Wilkins]

Just watched a You Tuber making some T & G paneling for a door using the groover for the groove cut and lowering the head for 2 passes for the tongue cut. He then tilted the head on his shaper (it was a Felder tilting shaper) to make the 45 chamfer. Many passes but less tooling investment.

[Warren Lake]

corg cheapest. Only do 3/4" backs so far. Backs have a strip of GP lam between then as a spacer then screwed in. Male and female knives so four knives total all in one head. Likely still in that head

[Joe Calhoon]

Here is the sheet from my Garniga Multiuse cutter. The new version is very similar. This is just a few of the operations it will do. Sorry for the wrong rotation of the picture. Equiptment problems in the picture dept.
Basically, the multiuse cutter is a large adjustable groover that goes 30 to 60mm. can also do furniture size tenons and stub tenons when inverted. It has optional grooving knives 3 to 8mm and several sizes of radius and chamfer knives which can be set anywhere on the head. Allowing for T&G profiles from 3/8" minus up to 2 1/2" or more. same for stub tenons and tenons up to 2" in length. Can also be used as a rebate cutter up to 60mm tall with the option of radius and groove cuts for gaskets.
.512706

[Warren Lake]

you can do lots with those heads. Whats the cost of one of those heads and the one Jared posted below

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These have worked fine for me.
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[Jared Sankovich]

https://youtu.be/jC2SqTdzIkM?si=C9_Vv2o0WIZKOR_f

Same head, different manufacturer.

[Larry Edgerton]

Thanks gentlemen. I guess I will get by with what I am running. I like having both set up at the same time and that would be too expensive with the multi use heads. I see Scott & Sargent has a sale on OMAS heads, may order one when I have time.

I have corrugated heads, and drawers of knives, but I just don't like running them.

[Joe Calhoon]

I get it Larry, you want to utilize your double spindle. This is another old Garniga head I use. It has a adjustable groover in center with top and bottom cutters that have pockets for rounding or chamfer knives. Then I use the Multiuse head either stacked on the T26 shaper or on a separate shaper for the tongue profile. I use this mostly for door work but also works for paneling. Most of my panel details are now rounded instead of chamfer so this works well. Agree about corrugated, I only use it for one off work and customer buys the knives.

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[brent stanley]

Thanks gentlemen. I guess I will get by with what I am running. I like having both set up at the same time and that would be too expensive with the multi use heads. I see Scott & Sargent has a sale on OMAS heads, may order one when I have time.

I have corrugated heads, and drawers of knives, but I just don't like running them.

Have you considered knives for a limiter head? For someone who isn't terribly interested in doing kitchens, I've somehow acquired a number of knives for that style of cut and they do work very well at larger diameters in good steel. Quicker to install than corrugated and cheap enough that you could get two sets cheaply, one for each profile. Could be made for zero set too where you just swap the heads on one machine and no adjustments required. I gotta say though, it's hard to beat an insert set with the scribes/spurrs/knickers for this in challenging grains, but it's another option.

[Joe Calhoon]

Brent, I tried the Whitehall limiter setup for T&G and could never get the fit i wanted. loose for paneling and snug for joinery. I do a lot of T&G for exterior panels thinking I could just use this head on the T26 with automatic setting to make a quick job of it.The first set I ordered was too tight to close up without glue. Whitehall suggested that the pins could be loosened and moved to offset the knives a bit. That worked with a lot of messing around but then very hard to get those pins back in the original spot for other cutters. Had the same problem with the glue joint cutter. I did order another set with a looser fitted it works for paneling. The beauty of the adjustable groover type is the ability to get the correct fit. I do love this head for short run moulding profiles though.

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[brent stanley]

Yeah, they find that tongue and groove is always a hard one Joe because you ask a 20 different joiners and you get 20 different opinions of what is the perfect fit. I visited a guy who had knives "off the shelf" for kitchen doors (nice snug fit like you'd want for doors) and was using them for panelling. You literally needed clamps to assemble the panel it was so snug along the whole 32" or so, and he said it was perfect. Big money woodworker, formally trained/apprenticed in Austria, shop full of CNC SCM and Martin kit. Many would say that was too tight for panels on the back of a display cabinet but opinions are all over the map. Some of the Whitehill knives are for panelling and some for doors, and I've caught people almost get the wrong ones.

I've personally never had a problem with their cope and stick knife sets though I've only run 8-10 because I don't do that type of work, but have helped people into probably 100 sets over the past few years. The only problems I've heard about could be
traced back to one or more of the following: Poorly set up machine with either runnout or spindle alignment issues or both. Incorrect knife installation, bad coping approach (homemade sleds), a damaged head with a bent pin, and where the cut and fit was exactly as designed, just not to the taste of the particular joiner or they bought the wrong knives for the job. Now all that said, maybe %20 of the time you have to fiddle with them to get your fit just the way you want. There is no question that that can be a pain in the butt when it happens to you, but some people find taking the time to fiddle a price easier to swallow than the cost of dedicated insert sets. That's going to be a shop by shop / person by person decision. I have a brand new set of amazing insert style cabinet door tooling in my shop as we speak (that would do Larry's work perfectly!) that I could own for a ridiculous discount but will not buy them because I don't have any interest in doing much of the work they perform. I would rather use knives for the odd kitchen I do and maybe need to fiddle. This style (and corrugated) allow for custom profiles that would not be available in dedicated insert-style heads too which is nice.

I agree these sets are great for shorter runs of mouldings and is really where they excel. I have about 800lf of baseboard in poplar (tulip wood) on one knife set and they are still working as new so they can handle a fair amount of work.

[Jared Sankovich]

Whats the cost of one of those heads and the one Jared posted below



The cmt version is 750 euro, the zuani is $1400.

[Brian Holcombe]

Do you guys prefer steel tooling over aluminum? I'm buying mostly steel tooling but looking at CMT aluminum for some of the small stuff like a plain chamfer tool.

[brent stanley]

Do you guys prefer steel tooling over aluminum? I'm buying mostly steel tooling but looking at CMT aluminum for some of the small stuff like a plain chamfer tool.

Steel is going to be more durable especially where it is threaded and the threads need to be used regularly, also more resistant to accidental knocks or bumps. A friend had an aluminum euro block he dropped something on and it deformed the knife slot at the perimeter and the knives wouldn't sit in properly anymore. I always go steel when I can but very large diameter tooling needs to be lighter and Aluminum is common there.

[Brian Holcombe]

Sounds good, I'll stick with steel where possible.

[Warren Lake]

I have Opollo head which is the same or close the OMAS I still use the corrugated. It works and no issues. If I spend three seconds more on set up so what its irrelevant. But since you both state you dick around with some of those cutter heads to adjust the fit, then those are even slower. Thanks Jared on the prices sure ones shown are more.

The knives are still in that head so it takes as long to slide it on and torque the nut. When it comes time to give them attention then there will be 500 sandpaper stuck on the shaper table, hone the back and back in and that is it.

[Brian Holcombe]

The fastest thing to do is have a machine setup for every cut. I cut a certain type of mortise all the time and just leave the Maka setup for it.

With space, ideal to have certain machines setup and left that way for cuts you make all the time. Short of that, having a stack of tools setup for specific cuts and left that way is the way to go. I haven't moved into shaper work yet but I do that pretty often for router work. For little mini tenons I just setup a cutter for it and leave it that way.

Setup is the real time sink in short run work.

[Warren Lake]

Brian I think people whine too much about set up not pointing to you but to how often ive read it takes time stuff. Not really its goes very fast and who cares for some extra seconds on a job, it just plain doesnt matter. What is an issue is if you have to repeat a step and that machine is already set up for another function then you are going backwards.

Depending what it is making extra parts applies, it will cover defects or blow outs or any mishaps along the way. Ive done small production runs and that has saved me a number of times not having to go back.

We started with no gizmos and set up and test cuts goes fast as that is all ive ever had. One shop I was in had 12 shapers for doors. When he asked me why he had so many, I said sure you save set up time. He said more so if there is blow out or some issue they can remake that part very fast.

[brent stanley]

I have Opollo head which is the same or close the OMAS I still use the corrugated. It works and no issues. If I spend three seconds more on set up so what its irrelevant. But since you both state you dick around with some of those cutter heads to adjust the fit, then those are even slower. Thanks Jared on the prices sure ones shown are more.

The knives are still in that head so it takes as long to slide it on and torque the nut. When it comes time to give them attention then there will be 500 sandpaper stuck on the shaper table, hone the back and back in and that is it.

If the grinding is correct you rarely have to fiddle with them in my experience Warren. I personally never have, and if you set them in the head like you probably do with corrugated (scratch test) then you probably won't have to. If you go as far as putting them in a setting stand, then you'll get it right on. Half of the rare occasions the fit is not what people want, the knives are working perfectly, but it's just not to the personal taste of the user.

[Warren Lake]

I dont have a set up stand. Spindles are not all true and there is a clearance between head and shaft, Its more accurate to set up on the machine.

[Brian Holcombe]

Brian I think people whine too much about set up not pointing to you but to how often ive read it takes time stuff. Not really its goes very fast and who cares for some extra seconds on a job, it just plain doesnt matter. What is an issue is if you have to repeat a step and that machine is already set up for another function then you are going backwards.

Depending what it is making extra parts applies, it will cover defects or blow outs or any mishaps along the way. Ive done small production runs and that has saved me a number of times not having to go back.

We started with no gizmos and set up and test cuts goes fast as that is all ive ever had. One shop I was in had 12 shapers for doors. When he asked me why he had so many, I said sure you save set up time. He said more so if there is blow out or some issue they can remake that part very fast.

Well that's the issue mainly, the SOP in my shop is to leave the setup until the machine *must* be setup for another process, I know plenty of people who breakdown their setup immediately after cutting their last part and they are re-setting it up again later. The issue being that it saves time if you need to re-run a part. I also, typically run enough that I have spares at every stage.

Setup for short runs is time consuming, especially if you run through setups a lot. Not a whine so much as being aware of the reality of how time is consumed. That changes a bit when the work involves long runs where the cutting is the large consumer and the setup is minimal by comparison. If you're running T&G and have the chamfering as a separate operation, then it's a huge time sink by comparison to adding a little setup time and running the full detail.

I have other reasons for bringing work back into my shop that I have outsourced, outside of speed/time. It's a waste of time for me to run T&G for jobs, but it's a huge boost in quality to be able to super surface, then final thickness on the backside of the part, then T&G. That's a waste of time by comparison to running it through a molder but it produces a much better quality result when a super surfaced finish is desired. I've super surfaced as a final on T&G in the past and it makes an inconsistent finished thickness which is a PITA for stuff being fit into a groove.

Outside of that, I think it's just much easier not to have to have knives ground for every job I do. There is no one local to me who does it, so I have a multi-day lag between needing the cutter and putting it to use. Then, of course, the back and forth between myself and the grinder to get exactly what I want.

[Jared Sankovich]

Do you guys prefer steel tooling over aluminum? I'm buying mostly steel tooling but looking at CMT aluminum for some of the small stuff like a plain chamfer tool.

I generally prefer steel, but I have a bunch of aluminum cmt heads and they work exactly like the steel heads. So basically if there are two identical heads one in steel and one in aluminum I would get the steel (assuming it's not a absurd price.l difference) but I wouldn't overlook a aluminum head if it's all that's available or absurdly cheap (which is why I have a bunch of aluminum heads)

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Jared, I think I’ll pickup the chamfer head in aluminum. Everything else so far has been steel.

[Joe Calhoon]

Brian,
I also prefer steel but aluminum heads are fine in a small shop treated with care. I have a few Ammana and Oretly and they are fine. Typically heads for door and window work on CNC routers are made in aluminum to keep the weight down. For production the better quality ones will have a hard steel to steel connection for the inserts. Quite a few years back I had a door set made like this thinking CNC router down the road. That never happened but this set has worked fine. This one has the steel connection. In a small shop you are not changing inserts often enough to worry about stripping the threads.
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[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks, Joe! That makes sense that the aluminum blocks for heavy use would have steel inserts.

[Larry Edgerton]

I have a limiter head, not real crazy about it. Once in a while for some odd thing its OK.

I have a Wadkin profile grinder for the Steel knives with a corrugated, grinds them in the head. I just don't like running with that much knife projection. When things go bad they go bad in a big way. And they are obnoxiously noisy.

I too will make extra parts. Have screwed up parts later in the production and had to reset too many times. I very seldom have many doors the same size so the rails I just leave long and always leave the cope head set up until assembly is complete. I make my tenons 1" on drawer fronts/cab doors/face frames always so figuring is easy.

I like dedicated cutters that just do one job. Especially as I get old and the eyes are not what they once were. Like the T&G cutters, I write the thickness of the last job on a piece of tape stuck to the cutters and put them back in the box. Then I know what to add or subtract if I change thickness. Like the T&G I am making now, its actually for tops, and each one is a different width so I change the size so they all come out the same, front to back. Its being done like the deck of an old boat with the white lines, so it has to be perfect.

I do have to balance cutters against profitability, but sometimes making my life simpler gets the nod.

I would really love to have a modern shaper with all the parameters set for you, punch in a number and bolt on a cutter, but that is not my reality. I'm 67 now and don't see myself being able to do this all that much longer so the investment would never be paid off in my market.

Great conversation gentlemen!

[Larry Edgerton]

Do you guys prefer steel tooling over aluminum? I'm buying mostly steel tooling but looking at CMT aluminum for some of the small stuff like a plain chamfer tool.

I switched to alum. because of cost. But I don't have any employees, and longest I may run parts is an hour or so. I just do the oddball stuff that no on else in the area wants to build, no production jobs at all. Suits me just fine as I get too bored if I don't have a problem to solve.

d

[brent stanley]

I have a limiter head, not real crazy about it. Once in a while for some odd thing its OK.

I have a Wadkin profile grinder for the Steel knives with a corrugated, grinds them in the head. I just don't like running with that much knife projection. When things go bad they go bad in a big way. And they are obnoxiously noisy.

I too will make extra parts. Have screwed up parts later in the production and had to reset too many times. I very seldom have many doors the same size so the rails I just leave long and always leave the cope head set up until assembly is complete. I make my tenons 1" on drawer fronts/cab doors/face frames always so figuring is easy.

I like dedicated cutters that just do one job. Especially as I get old and the eyes are not what they once were. Like the T&G cutters, I write the thickness of the last job on a piece of tape stuck to the cutters and put them back in the box. Then I know what to add or subtract if I change thickness. Like the T&G I am making now, its actually for tops, and each one is a different width so I change the size so they all come out the same, front to back. Its being done like the deck of an old boat with the white lines, so it has to be perfect.

I do have to balance cutters against profitability, but sometimes making my life simpler gets the nod.

I would really love to have a modern shaper with all the parameters set for you, punch in a number and bolt on a cutter, but that is not my reality. I'm 67 now and don't see myself being able to do this all that much longer so the investment would never be paid off in my market.

Great conversation gentlemen!

I'm with you on the dedicated cutters. They're hard to beat for efficiency of setup and performance within their range or purpose.

[Larry Edgerton]

I get it Larry, you want to utilize your double spindle. This is another old Garniga head I use. It has a adjustable groover in center with top and bottom cutters that have pockets for rounding or chamfer knives. Then I use the Multiuse head either stacked on the T26 shaper or on a separate shaper for the tongue profile. I use this mostly for door work but also works for paneling. Most of my panel details are now rounded instead of chamfer so this works well. Agree about corrugated, I only use it for one off work and customer buys the knives.

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Joe that is a complicated looking head! Very cool. Yes, I have grown to love that old hunk of Iron. The hoods are bolted to a ring in the table, I think like old Martins, and can be rotated hood and all, then locked in place. Adjust them about ten degrees off square and its the perfect setup for cope/stick or T&G. Mounted the feeder in the middle and it takes care of both side with just an angle change. Nice old piece of iron.

[Joe Calhoon]

I use that cutter a lot Larry. Its 3 heads stacked on a loose 50mm sleeve so they can be used individually. The adjustable groover part will even put 1mm radius in the panel grove to make assembly and finishing easier.

The fence that swivels is a great feature lost on most new machines. Most of the old shapers tilted 5 degrees back and 45 forward. but turning the fence around you have tilt both ways.
My T23 is set were I can only run 10' material but turning the fence I can do 16'. the swivel fence also makes setting up the side tenon table easy.

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[Larry Edgerton]

The adjustable groover part will even put 1mm radius in the panel grove to make assembly and finishing easier.


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I would like that, I always do that by hand. I usually stick the doors together without glue and finish the edge that meets the panel and the panel itself. Hard to sand that later and I end up with pools there if I try to spray it together. Miss my spray booth I had at the old shop.;)

I do the same with long stock to miss the band saw.

Joe, I never thought about the tilt thing and the rotating hood. I have been looking for a Uni with tilt and one of the things I don't like is the forward tilt. What a duh moment. That fellow that makes the air clamps just picked up a Uni Tilt with the tenoning table, I'll have to send him a note in case he has not thought of that also.

Just for kicks Joe here is one of my kitchens, https://indigoskyephotography.pixieset.com/kitchenremodel/

[Brian Holcombe]

Been thinking it might be handy to rotate the hood around for situations where one runs a tall panel upright against the fence, tall enough that it would run into the feeder support otherwise.

[brent stanley]

I would like that, I always do that by hand. I usually stick the doors together without glue and finish the edge that meets the panel and the panel itself. Hard to sand that later and I end up with pools there if I try to spray it together. Miss my spray booth I had at the old shop.;)

I do the same with long stock to miss the band saw.

Joe, I never thought about the tilt thing and the rotating hood. I have been looking for a Uni with tilt and one of the things I don't like is the forward tilt. What a duh moment. That fellow that makes the air clamps just picked up a Uni Tilt with the tenoning table, I'll have to send him a note in case he has not thought of that also.

Just for kicks Joe here is one of my kitchens, https://indigoskyephotography.pixieset.com/kitchenremodel/

Nice kitchen Larry, a lot of work there. Reminds me of one I did years ago for a couple in a village with a strong historical preservation board and things had to be done to respect the local designs. Interior work was less of an issue but still they wanted to be kept in the loop. I ended up incorporating some walnut from a tree cut in their back yard years before and maple from their friends woodlot which was fun. I only do kitchen now as special requests, or for something really interesting but I like looking at ones like yours. Well done.

Most of the tooling designed for t&g will incorporate eased edges for easier finishing but also easier assembly. The limiter
knives for that job typically have it by default as a byproduct of the grinding wheel radius but specific geometry (ie. Bevel) can be requested too . Some folks really like the crisper corners and with the Whitehill cabinet door set I reviewed here, it's an option: https://youtu.be/Dr_ZjSqk-xQ?si=YEX-6Lx3AHEn1U-5

Your job could be done by two adjustable groovers, one narrow set for the groove, one wider set inverted and spaced apart for the tongue. Infinitely adjustable to exactly what you want, but your standard groovers don't have the option for eased/chamfered/beveled edges, and because both those approaches have an interrupted cutting edge, you can't use this tooling for also widthing with an outboard fence, so it's a separate operation to width them. Two sets like Joes would be pricey, but do the job.

Tilt on a shaper is such a versatile feature, my next one will have it for sure. Once I've finished the big move into the new shop I will start looking in earnest. I enjoy the vintage machines, but also tempted to just pull the trigger on brand new with all the fixings.

[Larry Edgerton]

Brent, I almost pulled the trigger on a 7 year old full zoot PanHanz at an auction that had a failed motherboard. Did some digging and the board was no longer available from the manufacturer. End result, I would have had to put another $11k into a custom board and pay a tech to come all the way up here to make it work. Made me a bit leery of a machine that could not be operated manually. I wish they would have manual override controls, then I would pull the trigger.

[brent stanley]

Brent, I almost pulled the trigger on a 7 year old full zoot PanHanz at an auction that had a failed motherboard. Did some digging and the board was no longer available from the manufacturer. End result, I would have had to put another $11k into a custom board and pay a tech to come all the way up here to make it work. Made me a bit leery of a machine that could not be operated manually. I wish they would have manual override controls, then I would pull the trigger.

I've gone through similar thoughts processes Larry. I've heard too many horror stories about electronics failing that I would want to think I could run everything manually if I had to. Or just buy new and get a good warranty...or buy vintage where everything is always manual.

I'm really curious about the PanHans spindle moulders, I've only ever worked with one once. Very nice and refined. Talked to folks who prefer them to Martins of the same class.

B

[Brian Holcombe]

The computer controlled machines are worrisome, in so many cases it just seems completely pointless also, they’re often a very marginal improvement over a simple digital controller.

[Joe Calhoon]

I would like that, I always do that by hand. I usually stick the doors together without glue and finish the edge that meets the panel and the panel itself. Hard to sand that later and I end up with pools there if I try to spray it together. Miss my spray booth I had at the old shop.;)

I do the same with long stock to miss the band saw.

Joe, I never thought about the tilt thing and the rotating hood. I have been looking for a Uni with tilt and one of the things I don't like is the forward tilt. What a duh moment. That fellow that makes the air clamps just picked up a Uni Tilt with the tenoning table, I'll have to send him a note in case he has not thought of that also.

Just for kicks Joe here is one of my kitchens, https://indigoskyephotography.pixieset.com/kitchenremodel/

Larry,
here is a picture of the Adjustable groover with the slots for small radius. I had this one made with 2 positions - 13mm for cabinet and interior door work and 15mm for exterior to match my tenon disks.
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It cost a little more at the time but has sure paid dividends the last 20 years. All my rebate and multiuser heads have these adjustable slots also. Even my big tenon disks,
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Nice work on the kitchen Larry! I can appreciate what you put into that. Customers in the know will pay high dividends for quality work. Not much craftsmanship out there anymore.
Mac Composure does a fantastic job on his rebuilds. I don't know if he plans to keep that shaper or sell. I have a spray booth but have been avoiding spray jobs in semiretirement. I had a good finish guy when i ran a crew but preferring hand applied finishes anymore. Spray just about a necessity for kitchen work though.

[Joe Calhoon]

The computer controlled machines are worrisome, in so many cases it just seems completely pointless also, they’re often a very margin improvement over a simple digital controller.

Brian, anytime I am setting up or working with CNC equipment I think of this quote from a woodworker friend with a lot of CNC experience.

"CNC is the most labor saving, time consuming device ever invented"

[Brian Holcombe]

Hah, that is a perfect description of cnc!

[Warren Lake]

whole post is a testament to old school tooling and my wind up SCM machines and wind up car windows.

You put down corg like its for beginners not the first time. How about prices on the heads youve posted with the cutters Larry needs. Put in perspective for the job he has to do what the cost of those heads are.

Larry works alone, Larry doesnt like limiter heads, larry works for an hour, larry wont spend, Larry has a grinder then he has steel. Hes afraid of the overhang from a tongue and groove cutters cause when it goes bad it goes really bad? How does it go bad? It also makes too much noise? They are not big cutters, My PC Routers are louder. I always wear hearing protection anyway for just about anything.

My head would be on and the material run in the birdseye shown cut clean. The birdseye was jointed and planed on high speed steel. Imagine that of all things No bird head or whatever.

I dont have an affiliation with tooling companies or a machinery manufacturers. No salesman stuff just get the job done. Enough salesman slant on this forum, ive picked on Erik past.


Larry is going to the grocery store half a mile away, he doesnt need a Veyron.

[Larry Edgerton]

Ha!:D

Warren, I can like different things than you, and you can like different things than me, and its OK.