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castor aviles
02-04-2006, 7:44 PM
hi I need a opinion for cutting plywood wuold I be better off getting a festool saw or put a slidig table on contractor saw or put longer rails on my fence

John Shuk
02-04-2006, 7:48 PM
I think the Festool would give you alot more versatility and accuracy in the long run. It is on my list if future aquisitions but having seen the work done here with them I'd go for the Festool. JMHO

Bill Simmeth
02-04-2006, 7:50 PM
My vote is for Festool or EZ Smart over adding a sliding table to a contractor saw.

Jim Becker
02-04-2006, 8:18 PM
"Adding" a sliding table to a table saw (contractors' style or cabinet saw) doesn't usually get you much for full sized sheet goods unless you buy a very large one. And you still need to lift the sheets up to table height. For that reason, a guided circular saw system, such as the Festool (which I use and love) or something like the EZ-Smart sysetm is what I'd recommend over the bolt-on slider. That an a simple piece of 2" thick rigid insulation board gives you an easy to use, ground level sheet goods cutting system that just can't be beat...especially since your cuts can be right on the line, rather than having to rough cut and then finish cut at the table saw. The guided system also is a lot safer for crosscutting panels and wide boards that can't fit on your miter station.

Keith Outten
02-04-2006, 8:38 PM
I vote for the guide system as well. I have a 62" slider on my table saw and I wouldn't take anything for it, it really makes the TS much safer and makes many operations that couldn't be done against a fence possible. For full sheets the saw guides are the best bet and it cuts down on having to lift full sheets.

.

Gary Herrmann
02-04-2006, 8:56 PM
I've got the Jessem sliding table on my cabinet saw. I've also got the EZ smart. I view my sliding table as a permanently attached cross cut sled that also does miters. Whenever I have to cut a full size sheet down I use my CS and EZ smart. It's easier than trying to crosscut a full sheet on my TS.

I like the sliding table. It makes some things easier. I'm glad I got it - especially on sale. However, given a choice of one or the other, I'd take the CS and a guide.

Burt Waddell
02-04-2006, 9:46 PM
I've owned the Excaliber sliding table and am currently using the EZ Smart System. The EZ is more accurate and a lot easier to work with. There is so much less lifting involved. Also, Dino has just added the EZ smart sliding square/repeater combo. This is the best way to handle plywood and large panels. You can do multiple cuts of the same width with no measuring. As for saws, keep in mind that most right hand circular saws - including the Festool - work with the EZ guide rails.

http://www.eurekazone.com/images/products/detail/fs1r26big.jpg

Matt Meiser
02-05-2006, 12:00 AM
I had the Exaktor sliding table for a couple years but I just got the EZ Smart system and sold my sliding table. It is much easier to get a sheet of material onto a table than the sliding table for me. For one thing, the table doesn't have the sharp edges that the sliding table had, so its much safer to slide the material into place. Doing that on the sliding table probably would have scratched the surface of the sheet. Its also a lot easier to maintain the guide system than the sliding table. There's virtually no maintenance withe the guide system, where the sliding table had to be occasionally, a job I hated. The Smart Table also takes up a lot less room in my shop than the sliding table did. I had to keep a large area clear for the sliding table, but only a small area for the Smart Table. Finally, the guide system is portable.

Bill Fields
02-05-2006, 1:05 AM
Castor:

Agree w/ all above. Got the EZ Guide System and wondering why I need a TS. Just finished some cabinets--never used the TS.

BILL FIELDS

Ian Barley
02-05-2006, 8:19 AM
I agree with Jim. "Added on" sliding tables do not usually bring the same benefits as a "native" slider. I would vote for a guide system. If you have a CS that you are fully happy with the look carefully at the EZ system. If you do not have or are considering upgrading your CS then I personally consider the Festool plunge cut saws to be one of the best designed and constructed tools that I have had the pleasure of using. Not cheap but great value.

tod evans
02-05-2006, 9:04 AM
castor, for plywood i used a regular cabinet saw with extention tables for lotsa years, and still have one even though i have a slider now. i`ve always considered a skillsaw a jobsite tool and these new guide systems are a spin on what everybodies been doing since i was a kid, using a straight edge to guide a skillsaw. i`m sure they work well but for me a skillsaw will remain a jobsite tool........02 tod

Frank Pellow
02-05-2006, 8:04 PM
...
for me a skillsaw will remain a jobsite tool........02 tod
Tod, I am glad the developers of great Guided Circular Saw Systems (such as the Festool tools designers and Dino Makropoulos) did not feal the way that you do. :) If they had felt that way, I would still hate the task of cutting up sheet goods. But, with my GCSS, I actually enjoy the job.

Michael Ballent
02-05-2006, 9:17 PM
Each tool has it's place... The guided systems are great, adding a slider to an existing TS I do not think the value is there, but if you are talking about a Euro style machine, then we have a horse race. For me I am using the Festool and the cabinet saw, there are just somethings that are easier with a CS. So I would say that they are complementary tools.

Chris Barton
02-06-2006, 8:12 AM
It seems that a version of this question is becomming common but, I never hear anyone address what I consider to be the biggest (IMHO) issue. A sheet of 3/4" melamine weights about 90lbs and at 4x8 is a formitable beast. The idea of having to heft it on to a slider by myself and let's face it, most of us work by our selves, is aversive and down right dangerous. I switched to a ATF55e and use an old hollow core door as a cutting surface. I can slide a sheet directly on to the cutting table and I don't have to pick it up using my system. Additionally, the Festool system allows me to just place the guide on the measured cut lines and cut. No fiddling with clamps, measuring from the edge of the saw plate to the blade and figuring that into my cut and the plunge mechanism is a real plus and adds to the safety of the saw, not to mention the real riving knife. All that said, you could buy a decent contractor saw for the price of a Festool system. For the price of a Felder, Knapp, or MM big euro slider you could very nicely outfit an entire shop. It all depends on where you want to put your money...

tod evans
02-06-2006, 8:19 AM
It seems that a version of this question is becomming common but, I never hear anyone address what I consider to be the biggest (IMHO) issue. A sheet of 3/4" melamine weights about 90lbs and at 4x8 is a formitable beast. The idea of having to heft it on to a slider by myself and let's face it, most of us work by our selves, is aversive and down right dangerous. I switched to a ATF55e and use an old hollow core door as a cutting surface. I can slide a sheet directly on to the cutting table and I don't have to pick it up using my system. Additionally, the Festool system allows me to just place the guide on the measured cut lines and cut. No fiddling with clamps, measuring from the edge of the saw plate to the blade and figuring that into my cut and the plunge mechanism is a real plus and adds to the safety of the saw, not to mention the real riving knife. All that said, you could buy a decent contractor saw for the price of a Festool system. For the price of a Felder, Knapp, or MM big euro slider you could very nicely outfit an entire shop. It all depends on where you want to put your money...

maybe i`m the odd duck but i`ve been tossing 3/4 mdf around since it first hit the market, no big deal and i`m not nick-named mongo? in the end it all boils down to what you`re comfortable with, the ol` the end justifies the means. i wasn`t trying to say one way is better than the other only what works for me......02 tod

Matt Meiser
02-06-2006, 8:22 AM
maybe i`m the odd duck but i`ve been tossing 3/4 mdf around since it first hit the market, no big deal and i`m not nick-named mongo?

How? I move them when vertical pretty good, but I cannot move them from vertical to horizontal without either sliding them up on a table or with help. What is your secret?

tod evans
02-06-2006, 8:27 AM
no secret, i handle all sheet goods the same way, lean it onto my right shoulder, weight in my right hand, steady with the left hand... watch a fellow who hangs drywall by himself, most folks develop the same dance when moving sheetgoods??? it`s far easier for me to do than explain in print......hope i haven`t really confused everyone:) .02 tod

Frank Pellow
02-06-2006, 8:38 AM
...
I never hear anyone address what I consider to be the biggest (IMHO) issue. A sheet of 3/4" melamine weights about 90lbs and at 4x8 is a formitable beast. The idea of having to heft it on to a slider by myself and let's face it, most of us work by our selves, is aversive and down right dangerous.
...
y...
Chris, I believe that for, most of us that prefer GCSSs, this is is very high on the set of reasons for that preference. I certainly have mentioned this reason in the past and I have seen many otherts do so as well.

Frank Pellow
02-06-2006, 8:40 AM
no secret, i handle all sheet goods the same way, lean it onto my right shoulder, weight in my right hand, steady with the left hand... watch a fellow who hangs drywall by himself, most folks develop the same dance when moving sheetgoods??? it`s far easier for me to do than explain in print......hope i haven`t really confused everyone:) .02 tod
Thats what I do too Tod, and I am actually quite good at it. :) But, that certainly does not mean that it is something I like moving sheet goods :( so I try to do so as little as possible.

tod evans
02-06-2006, 8:47 AM
Thats what I do too Tod, and I am actually quite good at it. :) But, that certainly does not mean that it is something I like doing. :(

oh i don`t necessarly like doing it! but if i`m going to set a sheet down to cut i`d just as soon set it on the saw and be done with it as to have to drag the guide and skill saw to the sheet...02 tod

Tyler Howell
02-06-2006, 8:56 AM
I love the Festool system a lot and have used a home made CSGS for a long time.
What I don't recomend is attaching an after market gizmo to a contractors saw. You just have another compromise that doesn't work as well as the real thing.
PS Tod your young!!!!! Some of us old timers can't "cut it" anymore:D :p

Mark Singer
02-06-2006, 9:27 AM
I have both the Festool and a cabinet saw....no slider . I can never seem to get the accuracy and repeatability with the Festool saw as with the PM 66. The Festool is great for many things though....breaking down sheetgoods into manageable size pieces. Trimming large things like 8 foot tall 1 3/4" doors...straighlining stock if it is not 8/4 or thicker.... But , if I am making panels for a carcass, or doors for cabinets the PM 66 with the fence locked insures a parallel cut that is always exactly the same. Using a sled always insure a 90 degree cut to the fence edge. Using a stop block insures equall length cuts....moving the guide rail for the Festool will never give me the same level of confidence. Like Tod for years I packed my Skill 77 on jobsites and either a Tru Grip or clamped board made a commonly used straight edge guide I used that saw for everything from rough framing, to stair building, to hanging doors and installing wood siding. ....the Festool is far superior to that in many ways....although it was possible to get great cuts.... So bttom line is I use both ...but not for the same things....sliders I don't have much experience with and I don't think I have the room or that it would be a positive addition in my shop....and Tod agrees (thanks Tod!)

tod evans
02-06-2006, 9:53 AM
mark, the skillsaw guides i`ve always used on the job are made by gluing two pieces of 1/4" baltic together, one 1 1/2" or so to one 8" or so then run your skillsaw down with the shoe flush to the narrow piece so the blade cuts the wide piece, this in effect makes a zero clearance kinda deal hence no splintering on the topside. having only seen pictures of the guided systems it looks as though this is what they`re doing? heck i`ll just build one and take a pic......

31239

this has worked for me for lotsa years and only takes 5min. to build, no topside chipping. but like you i really prefer the tablesaw....02 tod

Jesse Cloud
02-06-2006, 10:38 AM
Love the Festool for breaking down the large sheets. I'm of an age where you can still lift sheet goods, but you feel it that night;) . I back the pickup next to the cutting table (sheet of plywood with folding legs), slide a sheet onto the table and start cutting. Another great advantage of the Festool in my small shop is dust control. I cut up four sheets of plywood yesterday and there was maybe a quarter cup of dust on the floor. With the skil-saw and guide, the place looked like a beach and the air felt like a sandstorm. With the Festool, I don't wear either a mask or hearing protection, though it probably wouldn't hurt.

On the other hand, when you need to rip several pieces to the same width, its crazy to do that with a guide rail. Set the fence on the tablesaw once and go to town.

Burt Waddell
02-06-2006, 11:11 AM
Jessie,

Those multiple rip cuts with the guide systems is where the EZ Smart repeater comes in. You set the repeater, kind of like setting a table saw fence, and cut as many pieces as you need - no measuring involved.

Burt

Burt Waddell
02-06-2006, 11:16 AM
Tyler,

The EZ Smart repeaters make multiple cuts of the same width possible. Add that to the new EZ Smart Sliding and you have the perfect setup for cutting large panels. I know that I sure feel a lot better after cutting a bunch of plywood using the EZ System


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without kick backs and hospital bills.

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</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>



Burt

Burt Waddell
02-06-2006, 11:45 AM
Jessie,

This EZ Smart repeater solves the problem of not being able to do multiple cuts of the same size with a guided system

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without kick backs and hospital bills.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>


Burt

Keith Weber
02-06-2006, 7:46 PM
I must say that I was surprised at how many people seem to prefer using the circular saw. I just finished attaching an Exaktor EX-26XS sliding table to my Grizzly Cabinet Saw. Although the installation was a total headache because of a poorly-designed instruction manual, once I got it set up, it's been an awesome addition to my saw. I no longer have to fiddle with circular saws, guides, cords, clamps, etc. I no longer have to run around finding something to support the sheet while I cut it in half. I no longer have to worry about where the circular saw blade will track under the sheet when I plan the cut.

To crosscut a sheet, I just place it on the table against the crosscut fence, lock down the clamp and slide it effortlessly through the blade. It literally takes me seconds to do and the resultant cut is square and accurate with no chipout. With the help of a single roller support, it's a one-man operation. FWIW, I chose to leave the left wing on my saw.

Some have mentioned that with the guides, you don't have to lift the whole sheet onto the table. I have to ask how you do it with the guides. You either have to lift the sheet onto a table or sawhorses to cut it (same difference) or lay it flat and cut it on the floor and prop it up with 2x4s (which I find harder on the back because I'd be stooping.)

To lift a sheet onto the saw, I just lean the sheet against the front rail of my saw (resting on a couple of blocks on the floor), pick up the lower edge until the sheet is flat, and slide it into position. A few minutes with a mill file permanently solved any issues with sharp edges on the Exaktor. For safety, I don't start the saw until the sheet is clamped into position for a full-width crosscut.

Everyone does what works for them and I respect that, but my personal experience is that cutting up sheet goods couldn't be any easier than with the setup I have right now. Just putting a different opinion on the table.

Keith

Jim Becker
02-06-2006, 9:10 PM
Keith, one option that folks use when using a guided system to "reduce" a big piece of sheet goods is to place it on a piece of rigid foam insulation board...on the floor, low boxes, the dining room table (Bill Grumbine did that one!), etc.

My adaptation of that will be some easily stored supports that engage the rows of dog holes on my Adjust-A-Bench workbench setup with it set to the lowest level. (About 2' off the floor) The supports will um...support the sheet goods...and that height is easy for me to maneuver a piece of sheet goods (even heavy MDF) onto the support structure to break down with my Festool setup. I just haven't gotten around to dealing with it yet...

Roland Chung
02-07-2006, 12:08 AM
A few months ago I was on this forum looking for advice on which sliding table system to buy. I had been using an inexpensive sliding table system to cut cabinet panels for many years with good results. I ended up installing the Exactor sliding table and blade guard with dust collection. It's no Euro slider, but it's an upgrade for me.

While I was researching, I kept reading about the two guided circular saw systems. I'm lucky enough to have several projects lined up, so I picked up the Festool saw and vac thinking that I would probably be able to use them at the jobsite.

I've ended up using both the TS (40%) and the Festool Saw with MFT(60%), but I haven't used the Sliding table yet. You could cut all of your parts with the Festool system, but there are a lot of parts that are just easier and faster to cut on the Table Saw - especially if the TS is just sitting there in the shop and you don't already have a sizeable collection of Festool accessories.

If I were to do it over, I would get started with Festool and skip the sliding table. Be careful though, as Mark was saying, when you are using the TS, you know that the parts will be 90 degrees and accurate. I just spent Saturday and Sunday spraying a couple of finished end panels that turned out to be parrallelograms (unuseable) because I goofed up a measurement.

Mark Singer
02-07-2006, 12:53 AM
mark, the skillsaw guides i`ve always used on the job are made by gluing two pieces of 1/4" baltic together, one 1 1/2" or so to one 8" or so then run your skillsaw down with the shoe flush to the narrow piece so the blade cuts the wide piece, this in effect makes a zero clearance kinda deal hence no splintering on the topside. having only seen pictures of the guided systems it looks as though this is what they`re doing? heck i`ll just build one and take a pic......

31239

this has worked for me for lotsa years and only takes 5min. to build, no topside chipping. but like you i really prefer the tablesaw....02 tod

Tod,
Put your name and price on it and you sell them!:eek:

Frank Pellow
02-07-2006, 8:21 AM
... Be careful though, as Mark was saying, when you are using the TS, you know that the parts will be 90 degrees and accurate. I just spent Saturday and Sunday spraying a couple of finished end panels that turned out to be parrallelograms (unuseable) because I goofed up a measurement.
One would think that the 90 degree statement is true, but, somehow, I screwed up yesterday and cut a bunch of small pieces with the miter gauge on my table saw set to about 89 degrees. :( I had been sloppy when resetting the mitre gauge after a few 45 degree cuts. I was able to recut 12 of the pieces, but 8 of them ended up in my scrap box.

Thomas Walker
02-10-2006, 9:39 AM
I have the festool guide rail and cs and it's great for initialling cutting down a full sheet of plywood or mdf

But I LOVE the Jessem sliding table I added to my sears hybrid ts. Super fast, super accurate, super smooth.

Kevin Halliburton
02-10-2006, 10:28 AM
My EZ guide, with either two repeaters, or the sliding square and one repeater arm, makes very accurate repeat cuts as true as any sliding table or saw fence I've ever used. I'm actually a bit faster and more accurate with the guide than I am with a table saw - especially when it comes to full sheets.

There are many things a table saw can do that are still a bit tricky with a guide system but I think the days of processing large sheet goods on the table saw are on their way out. The guide systems are just a better solution all the way around.

Jeffrey Makiel
02-10-2006, 11:35 AM
I have to admit, I'm with Mark on this one. As a hobbyiest, I generally don't buy what I could make in about 30 minutes for about $10 bucks. Perhaps I'm missing something with these systems...it wouldn't be the first time!:)

I use a homemade panel saw to break sheet goods down to a workable size. I also use a clamp-n-guide with a circular saw when I'm too lazy to even use the panel saw (because it's sometime buried behind junk). But I use these methods for rough sizing only. I really rely on my near vibration-free cabinet style tablesaw, using a hi-atb blade, zero clearance insert plate, and blade stabilizer to give me the best cut I can get when working with oak ply and melamines. Especially when the kerf on both the blade entry side and exit faces of the sheet are important. I also enjoy exact repeatability that a tablesaw provides.

In all honesty, can this be had by just using a portable circular saw? Perhaps my portable circular saws are just crummy.:(

-Jeff