Building a New Roubo - Split Top v Standard

[JohnM Martin]

Building a new Roubo workbench and was looking for some suggestions. My current bench is an 8ft long split top Roubo. I've moved and my current bench is too long for my new shop space so I'm rebuilding and hoping to learn from the first bench.



Split Top vs Anarchist Workbench
I'm struggling with whether or not to build a split top again or go with a solid top like the Anarchist Workbench. I do use the gap stop as a planing stop occasionally, but that is about it. In practice, I find that tools in the gap stop are more in the way than they are useful. Additionally, keeping two slabs coplanar has been a bit of a challenge as they move/change independently. This is probably my fault as I used various species of hardwood (whatever I could find at the time) from different sources to cobble together a top. I haven't found any need to use the gap as a place for clamps. I use round dog holes and use holdfasts and the veritas Hold Downs for clamping to the bench. For those that have worked on both a single slab and split top. What did you prefer?



Vise Hardware
First bench has Benchcrafted leg vise but no tail vise. The new bench will have a leg vise and a tail vise. I know Benchcrafted hardware works really well, but it is also quite expensive. Are there other options these days?

[Tony Wilkins]

Sounds from reading your question you’re leaning toward a single slab? I think in your case I’d go that way. The tools in my middle aren’t in the way - until they are

[Derek Cohen]

Keep it simple. Single piece top. Easier to use. Easier to maintain.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

Different strokes for different folks. For me having a tool well to keep tools out of the way instead being on the bench seems like a good idea. Of course, it has to be deep enough and wide enough to keep tools below the surface. Also it is nice to have a way to lay a plank on top of the well to make a continuous, flat work surface.

In your case John, it sounds like you have such a space and do not find it useful.

So why is there any question?

jtk

[Eric Brown]

My preference would be solid top. For a vice another option would be a Emmert or similar pattern makers vise. It really depends on what type of work you wish to do. I would not trade my Tucker vise for anything.
It will stay with me until I quit working as a hobby.

[Christopher Charles]

I too built a split top Roubo, adapted from the BC plan. Had a filler in the gap for more than a year and then glued it all together about 8 years ago. No regrets at all (even when I had to move it to a new shop).

The BC wagon vise is excellent, but I also do a good bit with smaller pieces and would likely put in the LN tail vise if building today as a traditional tail vise design has more clamping options.

[Jimmy Harris]

I'm not a pro, so for me space is more precious than time. So I've never had a tray on my bench and likely never will. Plus, it gets too humid in my shop in the summer to leave steel tools out. That, and as you noted, keeping the two surfaces aligned is an extra headache that I'm glad to avoid. Even if you wanted a tray, I would just add it to the back of a single top. Unless you regularly work on both sides of your bench, I don't see an advantage to a split top.

As for vise hardware, I'd just go with whatever your budget allows. A more precisely machined vise screw generally buys you a smoother experience, and sometimes a faster one. Plus, usually a lot less racking. But it won't buy you more holding power (unless you have a cheap quick release that won't stay engaged). Sometimes you can get more features or a nicer look for your money, but even a cheap screw vise, properly installed, will hold wood firmly. And you can use shims to fix any racking problems, that even expensive vises can have. I'm not saying you won't appreciate a Benchcrafted vise, but a cheap vise won't compromise the quality of your work.

I've always gotten the cheap vise hardware (Yost level) and never regretted it. I'm not saying I don't wish I had a Benchcrafted or Hovarter vise instead, but I'm not losing any sleep over my decisions.

[JohnM Martin]

Sounds from reading your question you’re leaning toward a single slab? I think in your case I’d go that way. The tools in my middle aren’t in the way - until they are

Yeah, I'm definitely leaning towards that. Mostly because keeping two slabs coplanar has been challenging over time.

[Tom Bain]

I am a little surprised about the coplanar issues. Do folks think that is a major concern with tops made from kiln-dried hardwood in a conditioned space? I would have thought if keeping the two halves coplanar was problematic we wouldn't see so many split-tops being built. As someone with a new workbench build in the very near future, inquiring minds want to know! :)

[Robert Hazelwood]

I built a split top from doug fir construction lumber about 7 years ago. The top as a whole has been very stable, no issues with them not being coplanar. The biggest advantage in use is that I can use the gap in the middle for clamping. I have only used it as a tool holder a few times. Things have dropped through the gap into a morass of shavings more than few times.

There are two other advantages to the split top - if you ever need to move the bench, much easier to move half of the top than the whole thing. Although mine is just light enough that I did not take it apart the two times I've moved since building it. But if your top is 6" thick maple or something like that, this can be a big deal.

The other advantage is during building. If you have a thickness planer you can run each slab through, which will save a lot of planing.

[Jimmy Harris]

I am a little surprised about the coplanar issues. Do folks think that is a major concern with tops made from kiln-dried hardwood in a conditioned space? I would have thought if keeping the two halves coplanar was problematic we wouldn't see so many split-tops being built. As someone with a new workbench build in the very near future, inquiring minds want to know! :)
If you can keep it in a stable environment, then you're right. It's probably fine. But not everyone has an airconditioned and heated shop. And even among those that do, not everyone lives in a region where you can expect minimal changes in seasonal humidity, even indoors. I my neck of the woods, we get crazy humid in the summer months and extremely dry in the winter. Much more so than most of the other regions of the US that I've lived in in the past.

So it CAN be a problem. Though that doesn't mean it WILL be a problem.

[Jim Koepke]

Sometimes you can get more features or a nicer look for your money, but even a cheap screw vise, properly installed, will hold wood firmly. And you can use shims to fix any racking

Hi Jimmy, if I haven't said it before, welcome to the Creek.

This was posted a little over a decade before you became a member > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?183743 < It is a stack of 4 spacers, 1/8", 1/4", 1/2" & 1" made so they can be nested together in any combination from 1/8" to 1-7/8" to counter racking. Larger spacers can be used with it for larger spans.

It not only blocks the vise chop from racking, it can be used to hold thin work without causing it to bow.

This and many other images included in posts all over SMC and especially in the Neanderthal wisdom and FAQs is definitely worth the $6 a year contribution.

Neanderthal wisdom and FAQs > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?103805

jtk

[Tom Bussey]

I have a split top with a tool well in it. The top is 4 inch thick hickory. My shop is neither air conditioned or heated. It is 24 degrees in there at the present. I have not had any problems with it being coplanar in the 6 years since I made it. The most expensive vise hardware was a $89 tail vise hardware. Now it is $118. The shoulder vise hardware costs $46.90 today and there are two shoulder vise and wagon vise The leg vise is antique and cost me $2 at an auction. The cris cross,, like the original one from way back it time is made out of hickory and works fine. 512338

Split tops are easier to deal with.

[Tom Bain]

Good to hear that keeping the split-top coplanar has not been an issue for many. In Tom’s design he appears to have end caps on both ends and I’m wondering how much the end caps help/contribute to keeping the two halves coplanar, effectively acting like a breadboard end? In the “standard” benchcrafted plans only one half (the one with the tail vise) has an end-cap, which is needed for attaching the vise.

[Tom Bussey]

I also have a tool well. It slides back and forth to help in cleaning it out and for clamping It can come completely out so it really aids in clamping some times. I takes 4 men just to carry the top.

Tom

[Joshua Lucas]

Let me make an argument in favor of a split top, especially if you are going to use a green slab for the top.

I bought a 3.5" x 23" x 7' (well, 10', but 3' got used for the legs) white oak slab about 5 years ago for my bench top. At the time it had been air-drying for about a year and was around 25% moisture content. I let it continue to dry for another year, which is to say that's how long it took me to get around to building the bench. By then it was probably 20% MC. Initially I had planned to make a solid top, but in the intervening year it had cupped considerably so that the center of the slab was probably an inch lower than the edges. I dealt with this by sawing the slab in half and making a split-top bench.

When I built the bench the split was a bit under 1.5" wide so I made a filler out of a 2x6. In the four-ish years since then the gap has grown to a hair over 2" - more than half an inch of movement. If the top had been solid (ignoring the issue of the cup) it would have either warped the base considerably or, more likely, split badly down the center. However, since the top is split, the only problem is that I need to make a new filler.

I don't use the split for anything - clamping, tool storage, or otherwise - so I wouldn't miss it if I were to glue in the filler. I probably won't do so though because while the top is mostly done moving, it may never completely stop.

As far as keeping the tops coplanar I haven't really had an issue. I re-flattened it once a couple years ago and haven't needed to since, though it probably wouldn't hurt to do it again. Of course any slab top, especially a green one, is going to need flattening every year or two. It probably helps that my tops are from the same slab and are mostly quartersawn.

In short, I'm very glad I went with a split top because green wood moves a lot.

[Joel Gelman]

In case you did not see this thread...

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?305763-Over-the-top-workbench

[Tom Bain]

In case you did not see this thread...

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?305763-Over-the-top-workbench

Joel — I have seen that bench and it’s pretty incredible. Probably a bit overkill for my needs, but may borrow some ideas. I kind of like his half-split, half-not approach to the top, although it does negate the benefit of a split-top if one ever needs to move it.

[Ron Brese]

I don't think you can go wrong with either bench top configuration. The only problem I see is that you've had BenchCrafted hardware on a prior bench and I think you will find that other hardware just won't give you the ease of use. Sort of like driving a basic bare bones car after you've had a Cadillac.

Ron

[Anuj Prateek]

I'll suggest going with single slab (non-split) bench. Whenever I'll build a new bench I will stick with single slab.

I built split top Roubo using construction lumber. It's pretty stable. Had to re-flatten it 3-4 times in last 5 years.

However, the gap (between the two slabs) and the filler has not proven useful for me. I rarely use the filler as planning stop and instead use alternates. Same with using the gap for clamps. In case of former I use LV planning stop that goes in dog holes. And, in case of later I find holdfasts much easier/faster than clamps through the gap.

Overall, looking back, split top brought complexity to the build w/o adding much value.

[George Yetka]

Can you lop your last bench instead of building new?

[Mike Brady]

Here is another take on some of your questions; based on my twelve year's experience with my current bench:

Like Tom, above, I employed a split top design for two reasons that were important to me: I like a tool well. The well holds the hardware that I often use such as bench dogs and some measuring and marking tools. Most importantly (I never anticipated this), having the bench top in two pieces makes handling of the ash bench components just that much easier if you ever have to move your shop. Think of it like the story of the guy who builds a canoe in his basement and then can't get it up the stairway. My bench would not, in fact, fit into the basement stair well; yet I assembled by myself it after a move a few years ago.

The bench legs and frame have bolted components as well; for the same reason. The two leg assemblies are an H configuration with glued M&T joints. They are draw-bolted to the two rails.

Good luck on your build! A good bench is a game-changer.

[Thomas Crawford]

I've had a regular Roubo going on 15 years now, based on the first book. I can't think of a single time I've wanted the split top or had any issue clamping things or needing a planing stop that I couldn't make with some holdfasts. Always just seemed like a place to collect dust and shavings. I'm planning on building a new one this year, hopefully 10 feet long, and will do a single laminated slab again. But to each his own, I built it before I really built anything else so I'm sure my style just adapted to what I had.