Alternative to Lenox Classic

[John Kananis]

I need to replace the Lenox classic 3/4", 3tpi hook tooth blade I've been using for breaking down rough blanks. I don't really have any complaints about the blade but wondering if there is a better option for me. I was looking at the CT but it only comes in 1" or greater width - also looked at the trimaster but no experience. My saw is a laguna 14bx (2.5hp version). Thanks for any direction.

Edit: I meant to post this in the turner's forum but it ended up here somehow.

[Philip Glover]

I have been using a Lenox Woodmaster-C, 1" x 2 TPI, for thick cuts and a Lenox Flex Back, 3/4" x 4 TPI, for thin material. They both work very well.
Certainty a CT would be better, but it's more money too.
My saw is a MM 16".

Regards,

Phil

[John Kananis]

Hi Philip,

Thank you for the suggestions. Unfortunately, both the C and CT come in 1" or greater, which is too large for my saw.


I have been using a Lenox Woodmaster-C, 1" x 2 TPI, for thick cuts and a Lenox Flex Back, 3/4" x 4 TPI, for thin material. They both work very well.
Certainty a CT would be better, but it's more money too.
My saw is a MM 16".

Regards,

Phil

[John TenEyck]

You wouldn't want a CT on that saw even if offered in 3/4", as it's too thick. But I'm pretty sure the Laguna Resaw King comes in 3/4", and is made with a thinner band, but brace yourself for the price. You might consider the Lennox Diemaster II. Although limited to 1/2" width, many find it a good all-round blade.

Now that I look at the Classic you currently are using, it too has a 0.035" thick band. That really is pushing the limits for your saw, both in being able to tension it and with respect to longevity having to go around those small wheels.

John

[John Kananis]

Hey John, I have a 3/4 resaw king that's put aside for cutting veneer. I was using the classic mostly for very rough work, logs with bark, etc. I also have a Diemaster 2 and it's a good "utility" blade - it's also .035 though as the .025 doesn't come in 3 tpi. I have a 3/4 laguna pro force I haven't tried yet but if its anything like its 1/2" cousin, it will disappoint.


You wouldn't want a CT on that saw even if offered in 3/4", as it's too thick. But I'm pretty sure the Laguna Resaw King comes in 3/4", and is made with a thinner band, but brace yourself for the price. You might consider the Lennox Diemaster II. Although limited to 1/2" width, many find it a good all-round blade.

Now that I look at the Classic you currently are using, it too has a 0.035" thick band. That really is pushing the limits for your saw, both in being able to tension it and with respect to longevity having to go around those small wheels.

John

[Philip Glover]

For what it's worth, I also use a Wood Slicer 1/2" sometimes. It is 0.022" thick. It requires little force to get the correct tension and cuts well.
Caveat: I have found the Wood Slicer blades to dull more quickly than anything else that I have ever used.

Phil

[John Kananis]

Ya, those are decent but looking for a little more durability.


For what it's worth, I also use a Wood Slicer 1/2" sometimes. It is 0.022" thick. It requires little force to get the correct tension and cuts well.
Caveat: I have found the Wood Slicer blades to dull more quickly than anything else that I have ever used.

Phil

[John TenEyck]

Hey John, I have a 3/4 resaw king that's put aside for cutting veneer. I was using the classic mostly for very rough work, logs with bark, etc. I also have a Diemaster 2 and it's a good "utility" blade - it's also .035 though as the .025 doesn't come in 3 tpi. I have a 3/4 laguna pro force I haven't tried yet but if its anything like its 1/2" cousin, it will disappoint.


You might consider the 0.025" thick Diemaster II with 4 tpi. I use a 3/8" x 4 tpi (Starrett, however) for most things on my 14" Delta and it cuts well, even ripping stuff several inches thick, surprisingly. Otherwise, the Olson MVP is a bi-metal blade that comes in 1/2" x 3 tpi that's 0.025" thick. I used a couple on my Delta, and they cut every bit as well as the Diemaster II, but left a slightly coarser finish.

John

[John Kananis]

Good info, I'll check out the Olson. Thanks again, John.


You might consider the 0.025" thick Diemaster II with 4 tpi. I use a 3/8" x 4 tpi (Starrett, however) for most things on my 14" Delta and it cuts well, even ripping stuff several inches thick, surprisingly. Otherwise, the Olson MVP is a bi-metal blade that comes in 1/2" x 3 tpi that's 0.025" thick. I used a couple on my Delta, and they cut every bit as well as the Diemaster II, but left a slightly coarser finish.

John

Edit: looks like I'd have to drop them a ring, sizing on their site goes from 111" to 123" (no 115" options).

[Paul Saffold]

Laguna makes a 5/8" variable pitch 115" blade. ShearForce. I see that it is spring steel with heat treated teeth. I thought it used to be bimetal.

[Christopher Charles]

I'll second John's suggestion for the Lenox Diemaster 2- I use a 1/2" 3 tpi for everything except cutting veneer. Unless you are doing lots of tropical hardwoods, a carbide blade is probably overkill $-wise. Many larger suppliers will cut to custom length.

Best,
Chris

[John Kananis]

Hi Paul, I'm reluctant to try those. I tried a proforce blade and dulled it after breaking down 3 small cherry logs (about 4 or 5 inches thick and 24 inches long - yeah, really). It seemed similar in characteristics to the timberwolf blades so maybe it would have been better on dried and dressed lumber.


Laguna makes a 5/8" variable pitch 115" blade. ShearForce. I see that it is spring steel with heat treated teeth. I thought it used to be bimetal.


I'll second John's suggestion for the Lenox Diemaster 2- I use a 1/2" 3 tpi for everything except cutting veneer. Unless you are doing lots of tropical hardwoods, a carbide blade is probably overkill $-wise. Many larger suppliers will cut to custom length.

Best,
Chris

I have a diemaster 2 in the shop (1/2", 3tpi .035) so I'm in good shape for now. Also decided to order a trimaster (3tpi with the thinner band) from spectrum supply.

I'm trying to cut down on the amount of (types of) blades I keep around. I didn't start breaking down rough material until I got a lathe and logs eat (the wrong) blades. Aside from the 1/4 and 3/8 blades, I'd like to keep 3 others on hand. Assuming my plan is sound, I'll keep the dm2 in the saw for the rough stuff, use the trimaster for my general day to day work in dried lumber and keep the resaw king for veneer work. That's the plan anyway.

[John Kananis]

Update: I installed the Diemaster 2 and it cuts efficiently. However, the quality of cut is quite diminished over the Lenox classic. I recommend the latter, very good blade.

[John TenEyck]

Update: I installed the Diemaster 2 and it cuts efficiently. However, the quality of cut is quite diminished over the Lenox classic. I recommend the latter, very good blade.

Good to know, thanks. If you were using the 3/4" Classic the lowest tooth count I see available is 4/6. If you used a 3 tpi Diemaster 2, then the cut quality difference might be expected.

John

[John Kananis]

John, the classic was in fact 3 tpi at 3/4". It's definitely available - just checked.


Good to know, thanks. If you were using the 3/4" Classic the lowest tooth count I see available is 4/6. If you used a 3 tpi Diemaster 2, then the cut quality difference might be expected.

John

[John TenEyck]

John, the classic was in fact 3 tpi at 3/4". It's definitely available - just checked.


This is what I see on Lennox's website. Are you sure you're using the Classic?

John

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86mJthtHyrdlmXe0j91BO3oEofjSmC3xTSrKXS3-AvtBtI7WMM4qGINQpt-XlOZUanRdRAOCSv3a-ur8xStjhGxafShvLEx5HDwHRpOeTGnBtA0ojQIVaf4Ky8IyL18 fjGpTw0FKsE4MqkTotqGIVunaw=w1574-h885-s-no?authuser=1

[Andrew Hughes]

Isn’t that a blade for cutting metal.
If so even a 3tpi will have a small gullet.

[John Kananis]

Here's the link. Yes, I'm positive.
https://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/lenox-classic-bi-metal-band-saw-blades-2


This is what I see on Lennox's website. Are you sure you're using the Classic?

John

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86mJthtHyrdlmXe0j91BO3oEofjSmC3xTSrKXS3-AvtBtI7WMM4qGINQpt-XlOZUanRdRAOCSv3a-ur8xStjhGxafShvLEx5HDwHRpOeTGnBtA0ojQIVaf4Ky8IyL18 fjGpTw0FKsE4MqkTotqGIVunaw=w1574-h885-s-no?authuser=1

Gullet is plenty large. Great blade.


Isn’t that a blade for cutting metal.
If so even a 3tpi will have a small gullet.

[Stephen Bandirola]

From what I was told (and can tell from looking at it) the Classic with the Hook teeth is basically a wider Diemaster.

[John TenEyck]

Isn’t that a blade for cutting metal.
If so even a 3tpi will have a small gullet.

Yes, but so is the Tri-Master which some folks choose for cutting wood, too.

John

[John TenEyck]

That tpi is not listed on Lennox's website. Very strange. A 0.035" thick blade isn't a great choice for most 14" saws. The wheels are small and most don't have the tension capability for something that wide and thick. Glad that it works well for you, though.

John

[John Kananis]

The two bands do look similar. Tooth geometry and set look slightly different (might just be subjective on my part). Surprisingly, both bands required the same tension, which would be what you'd expect for a 3/4 blade but much more than you'd think to put on a half inch blade.

Having used the Diemaster 2 a bit more, my vote is for the classic. Cut is both more efficient and smoother. I ordered one just to try it out a while back and now I'm glad I did. Going to order another. I understand the longevity issues on 14 inch wheels, I'm ok with that as long as I can tension properly.

[Andrew Hughes]

Yes, but so is the Tri-Master which some folks choose for cutting wood, too.

John
Thats a good point. I wonder if the whole Lennox classic blade is m42. I’m thinking a blade for woodworking only need to have tips in carbide or hard cobalt. Sharp big gullets get through a tall resaw faster that’s better goal rather then blade life.
Heat build up inside the wood is what I believe causes some bowing not just wood tension.
I have no scientific proof only my personal experience.
Good Luck

[John Kananis]

Heat does cause the bowing, especially when the stock is pushed through too quickly allowing the dust to be trapped in the sides of the blade instead of allowing the gullets to pull it down and through. Imho.

[Andrew Hughes]

Heat does cause the bowing, especially when the stock is pushed through too quickly allowing the dust to be trapped in the sides of the blade instead of allowing the gullets to pull it down and through. Imho.

Thats true pushing a blade faster then it can cut causes all kinds of trouble. I do remember looking at that blade or something similar. For my saw it would set me back 100$. That’s half way to a carbide tipped. I get cheap carbon steel blades from my saw service that last pretty good. Cost 27$ a woodmaster ct 178$.

[John Kananis]

That sounds like a great deal. And yeah makes no sense for you I suppose.


Thats true pushing a blade faster then it can cut causes all kinds of trouble. I do remember looking at that blade or something similar. For my saw it would set me back 100$. That’s half way to a carbide tipped. I get cheap carbon steel blades from my saw service that last pretty good. Cost 27$ a woodmaster ct 178$.