Real world miter saw technique

[Cameron Wood]

Micro-adjusting stop blocks may be OK for tricky woodwork projects and possibly for furniture, although I don't go there,
but for trim carpentry it's a waste of time.

This is a proven method for installing trim with speed and accuracy.

- Mark reveal with gauge (1/4")
- Rough cut trim stock to length
- Mark trim to gauge line w. slash indicating miter cuts.
- Make two 45˚ cuts on leg and head
- make two 45˚ cuts on other leg and head
- fasten starting at the bottom. Adjust miter cuts on head casing piece if necessary.

The trick is at the chopsaw. Leave a space between the saw and the table! Don't fasten the saw in place. Don't have a fence. Grasp the trim stock and brace the hand against the side of the chopsaw table.
Take a partial cut shy of the mark without cutting completely through the stock. Creep up to the line with partial cuts by adjusting the grip. one can easily adjust the cut by a few 1/000's. When satisfied, make the complete cut. The only measuring has been to rough cut the stock - with in an inch or so.

For multiples, place the cut piece on top and slide the stack up to the blade.

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[Kevin Jenness]

I approach it differently, joining the casing legs and head prior to install. The jambs are installed square and the casings are cut to make a square assembly so the angles don't have to be adjusted. For window trim all the parts except the apron can be prefinished and installed as a unit based on the jamb dimensions and a repeatable stop is practically essential. This method allows for an assembly line process and ensures tight joints. Not saying your way is wrong, but there are more ways to the woods than one.

512055512056

Sorry for the rotation. As you can see the casings are dadoed at the back to bridge any drywall bumps and allow for a bit of scribing if needed. The head is captured between the legs (!) so the through dados are unseen above eye level. The jamb extensions, sill and casings are prefinished and assembled as a unit. The deep jamb extensions are pre-scribed to the drywall depth, biscuited to the window jambs, screwed together and to the sill and pocket screwed to the back of the casings. This unit was pulled after some time to ease repainting the wall, thus the sun-shadowed sill.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

If the trim is not too big, my approach is very similar to Camerons regarding how the saw is used. I don't bother with marking the reveal. I enjoyed the door hanging story Mark Ellison tells in on pages 49 & 50 in his book Building.

[Tom M King]

We all have our own methods. Mine mainly involves marking with a sharp no. 4 pencil of a particular type but there are many other details of the whole process that I don't even think about any more.

[Cameron Wood]

I approach it differently, joining the casing legs and head prior to install. The jambs are installed square and the casings are cut to make a square assembly so the angles don't have to be adjusted. For window trim all the parts except the apron can be prefinished and installed as a unit based on the jamb dimensions and a repeatable stop is practically essential. This method allows for an assembly line process and ensures tight joints. Not saying your way is wrong, but there are more ways to the woods than one.

512055512056

Sorry for the rotation. As you can see the casings are dadoed at the back to bridge any drywall bumps and allow for a bit of scribing if needed. The head is captured between the legs (!) so the through dados are unseen above eye level. The jamb extensions, sill and casings are prefinished and assembled as a unit. The deep jamb extensions are pre-scribed to the drywall depth, biscuited to the window jambs, screwed together and to the sill and pocket screwed to the back of the casings. This unit was pulled after some time to ease repainting the wall, thus the sun-shadowed sill.


That is a good approach for more elaborate trim, new construction, and thicker walls. Most of my work is remodel with a lot of variety so less assembly line process. I don't believe I've ever seen head casing between the legs like that.

The main point is about the saw. Given that a chopsaw does not make the best cuts anyway, and the large majority are utilitarian, the practically universal fence and table tight to the saw set up is not that good, IMO, since you have to hold the stock by pressing it against the fence with your fingers which is not so safe and difficult to make adjustments to the cut. The fence and fixed saw make it difficult or impossible to deal with long or bowed stock. I use the same approach in the shop, & any precision repeat cuts are generally done with cross cut sled & stop block.