What’s The Trick . . . .

[Mike Hollis]

. . . . to not tearing up your knuckles when removing router bits from the collet. I am not gorilla torquing the collet nuts, just until snug. I have the large Milwaukee 3 1/2 HP router in my router table/lift and I typically end up having to pry up the collet nut (once it is clear of the threads) to remove the bit.


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Please tell me there is a better way.

[mike stenson]

. . . . to not tearing up your knuckles when removing router bits from the collet. I am not gorilla torquing the collet nuts, just until snug. I have the large Milwaukee 3 1/2 HP router in my router table/lift and I typically end up having to prior up the collet nut (once it is clear of the threads) to remove the bit.

Please tell me there is a better way.

There's two 'breaks' on my routers when I undo the collet. The first one is when it breaks free and spins, then there's a later one where it'll let the bit go.

[Michael Burnside]

There's two 'breaks' on my routers when I undo the collet. The first one is when it breaks free and spins, then there's a later one where it'll let the bit go.

This was my thought as well. Another recommendation is to blow out the collet/nut periodically. On my CNC I do it after every tool change. This is what I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086WRHRSJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[glenn bradley]

I have run Milwaukee 56xx routers for many years. They all run the same collets. As mentioned there is an initial break, then about one revolution, then a second break. and the bit should lift right out. If the bit is sticking after the second break I would disassemble and clean the collet, make sure it is dry, dry, dry, and reassemble it. Instructions for this are in your manual but basically you tilt the collet sideways to pop it out of the nut. To reassemble, stand the collet on a hard surface, set the nut on top of it and hit it with the palm of your hand to snap the collet back in.

[Tom M King]

Self-releasing router collets were a major step up in woodworking equipment. I think the only routers I ever had without them were sold new in the early 1970's. All the ones after then came with them.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Self-releasing router collets were a major step up in woodworking equipment. I think the only routers I ever had without them were sold new in the early 1970's. All the ones after then came with them.And all the PC 690's that I have have been converted to self releasing collets.

[Tom M King]

Mine too, immediately after I had the first one in my hands.

[Mel Fulks]

When you put a bit into a router, push it all the way down. Then pull it up, off the bottom, one eighth of an inch. Then tighten.
That will assure that the bit is correctly seated . There must be room for the collet to squeeze and hold the bit, used to be in all
directions. Many companies have been told by lawyers that they are better off giving small bits of info , NOT boring info that no one
will read . Only place to get good info is a real workman.

[richard poitras]

When you put a bit into a router, push it all the way down. Then pull it up, off the bottom, one eighth of an inch. Then tighten.
That will assure that the bit is correctly seated .

I Agree with this statement, But what I do is place an "O" ring in the bottom of the router and it automatically sets the bit at the 1/8''

[glenn bradley]

When you put a bit into a router, push it all the way down. Then pull it up, off the bottom, one eighth of an inch. Then tighten.
That will assure that the bit is correctly seated .

I Agree with this statement, But what I do is place an "O" ring in the bottom of the router and it automatically sets the bit at the 1/8''

Milwaukee routers have an extremely deep hole. I slip the O-ring around the router bit shaft instead for these routers.

[Wes Grass]

Collet is independent of the cutter. There has to be some clearance between the depth of the collet and the shank bottoming out.

If the shank is bottomed, the collet can't tighten. And the cutter walks itself out ..

[Bruce Page]

There is a better way. Muscle Chuck saved my knuckles. The PC 7518 in my table was a PITA to change bits on. I installed a Muscle Chuck and couldn’t be happier with it. No more fumbling with wrenches, just one Allen wrench.

https://musclechuck.com/portfolio-view/type-10/

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I have a large PC 7518 in my router table. I just take the wrenches, break the collet nut loose and then using a wrench I tap lightly on the collet nut. I haven't experienced problems with stuck bits.

[andrew whicker]

squeeze the wrenches together..

[Warren Lake]

thats just a flesh wound. What Mell said dont bottom, what andrew said align the wrench offsets so you can sqeeze or I often put one wrench on and it rested on the bench and tap the other wrench with a hammer. That worked fine

On my routers mostly porter cable its 1 you loosen the nut then if the bit is still tight I tap the collet lightly one hit and it will be loose.

[Mike Hollis]

Reading through all of your comments I realized my idiocy. I was never seating the collet in the nut, but rather just inserting the collet in to the spindle, inserting the bit, and then tightening the nut. So when reversing the process the collet nut would come off the threads but the bit was still in the collet, which was still in the spindle.

Yes, I’m one of those idiots that doesn’t typically read the manual. Maybe that should change.

Thanks for all the help.

[Myles Moran]

squeeze the wrenches together..

The one handed wrench squeeze for tightening and loosening has saved my knuckles many times.

[Bert McMahan]

If my knuckles are getting sore I just use my teeth, saves my fingers a lot.

[Dave Sabo]

how bout a pair of gloves ?

[Wes Grass]

Tapping on the spindle will shorten the life of the bearings. Whether or not it would be noticeable in a router is another matter.

A spindle in a CNC ... never never never.

[Warren Lake]

that makes sense Wes. Reality three routers used to do manual cutting and trimming with way more load than if CNC. Bearings screaming at times they all have their original bearings and work fine. I think if i just kept using the wrenches and went further there would be a second release. Always just given it a knock with one of the wrenches but what you said makes sense.