Case construction / sliding, tapered dovetails

[James Jayko]

I'm going to build a dresser and want to try to up some skills.

I'm planning to build a dovetailed case, and use sliding mitered dovetails to set the web frames in the case. Conceptually it seems easy enough. My question is, for alignment and square, do you always put the taper on the top facing side of the dovetail, so the frame 'seats' on the bottom side of the dovetail, the side square to the side? Or am I thinking too hard about this?

Over an ~18" depth, is 1/16" enough, not enough, or too much?

[James Jayko]

Or should I just domino the web frames into the sides and quit overthinking it?

[Ron Citerone]

Never did the sliding dovetail thing. I have dovetailed front and rear frame parts into a case and then attached the side pieces of the web frames to the front and rear web frame parts with mortise and tenons. I glued the side runner mortise into the front of the web frames and left the rear one floating to allow for expansion and contraction of the case. I am happy with it but I think the reality is it is more about aesthetics than strength IMO.

I also did this to up my skills. I would do it again for the aesthetics on a special piece but not generally.

The main thing I learned (after messing up a similar piece) is to have two routers. One with a straight bit to remove a lot of the material followed by a second router with a matching bushing and the dovetail bit. When I tried to do it all with just the dovetail bit I had chipping and some bit slippage with white oak. ;)

[Ron Citerone]

Or should I just domino the web frames into the sides and quit overthinking it?

In this case, why not just blind dado the web frames into the sides of the case? Did a lot of older pieces that way and after 30+ years no failures.

[Derek Cohen]

I'm going to build a dresser and want to try to up some skills.

I'm planning to build a dovetailed case, and use sliding mitered dovetails to set the web frames in the case. Conceptually it seems easy enough. My question is, for alignment and square, do you always put the taper on the top facing side of the dovetail, so the frame 'seats' on the bottom side of the dovetail, the side square to the side? Or am I thinking too hard about this?

Over an ~18" depth, is 1/16" enough, not enough, or too much?

James, I have a complete build, with dovetailed case, sliding dovetailed dividers, and more.

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/index.html

Scan down to "Underbench Cabinet".

Mitred through dovetails ...

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet1_html_m6c77011.jpg


Blind dados ..

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet4_html_m2ffd84c4.jpg

Blind sliding dovetails ...

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UnderbenchCabinet10_html_2de7f570.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[James Jayko]

I just read Tim Russeau's article on STD from FWW. I just now realize that I completely misunderstood the joint. I thought it was just, "tight in the front, loose in the bacck;" I didn't realize it was tight all the way through once seated. Oops.