The Tokyo Log Hog Jr.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

OK, I've not gone completely spiny.....yet, and this proves it.....





The Tokyo Log Hog Jr.

　
OK, the Tokyo log hog has done a great job of slabbing up the
logs I'm getting, but, I'm bringing home boards with wain on them, the bark, and to cut this off is messy in the Dungeon.
I've had a good look at the Granberg Mini Mill, and as I cannot get one here in Japan, I'd make one....
The Log Hog Jr. will ride on a rail, a track, this is just a piece of angle iron.
I needed another piece of angle iron to ride on the track, but normal angle iron would not work...
http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/normal_angle_iron_no_good.jpg
Normal angle iron has a gusset, that would not let it ride tight on the track.
http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/guiderail_track.jpg
I had to make my own. I used flat bar, and some rare earth magnets to hold it in place.
http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/guiderail_track2.jpg
Here you can see the set up ready for welding.
http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/guiderail_track3.jpg
Now I needed a tube welded to the angle iron, and I had to keep it square.
http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/tube_on_guide_rail.jpg
Looks OK so far.
http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/bridge_welds.jpg
I welded some bridge welds on it to hold it in place.
http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/log_hog_jr_mock_up.jpg
here is a mock-up with the guide rail on the track, and the tightening tube on the right, as well as the outrigger on the left, the chainsaw bar will be pinched between the two tubes on the right.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

......

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/clamped_ready_to_weld.jpg
All clamped up, ready to weld.
http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/center_tightener_drilled.jpg
OK, now the tightener bar is ready, I tacked on the spacer, and then drilled the pilot holes
http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/center_tightener3.jpg
Now the main holes are done, I drilled about halfway through the spacer plate.....
http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/center_tightener1.jpg
I then ground points on the bolts, so they would retain the spacer as they are tightened.
http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/center_tightener2.jpg
Here you can see how it works.
http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/log_hog_jr_left_side_view.jpg
Here is a view of the Tokyo Log Hog Jr.
　http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/log_hog_jr_behind_view.jpg
Back view with handle
　http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/42cm_cutting.jpg
42 Cm of cutting depth! (16.5") I could squeak another inch out of it.
Now I have to make up the guide board, I have to drill the track and attach it.
I'll give it a test in the Dungeon before I take it to the Woodlot on Tuesday.

Cheers!

PS, a MIG welder is a wonderful thing :D

[Jim O'Dell]

Man, we need your ingenuity to fix our shuttle problems!! That looks like a genuine working piece of equipment. Anxious to hear/see how it works out for you! Jim.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Thanks Jim, but I don't do shuttles, I hear the out-sourced that off planet.... :D

I'll give it a spin tomorrow to see how it goes.

Cheers!

[Andy Hoyt]

I can hear your countryman Red Green now, "Whut? No duct tape?"

Very cool, Stu.

[tod evans]

stu, are you sure there`s no hillbilly blood flowing through your veins?

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I can hear your countryman Red Green now, "Whut? No duct tape?"

Very cool, Stu.
Wait just a second there youngster, I've not put the cover on the handle now have I..... :D

I can FINALLY buy the real stuff here, we used to get this crap made in Japan, it was NOT the same. My wife did not believe me, so I too a 2' length of the crap stuff, and wrapped it around her wrists, then said, "OK get loose" she did in about 10 seconds. I then did the same thing with the real "Duc" tape, and after about 5 minutes and some chewing she was free, she now understands why I pay twice as much for the real stuff :D

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

stu, are you sure there`s no hillbilly blood flowing through your veins?

Maybe Great White North Hillbilly blood, but I come from a long line of "Bodgers" from the UK!

Cheers!

[Andy Hoyt]

Maybe Great White North Hillbilly blood, but I come from a long line of "Bodgers" from the UK!

Cheers!

Ahh!

So you're the Artful Bodger!

[Barry Stratton]

Improvise, adapt, and overcome..... Were you a Marine in a former life?????

amazing ingenuity Stu!!!

[Vaughn McMillan]

Great idea, Stu. I was wondering just yesterday how you were going to handle the edges of your new boards.

My wife did not believe me, so I took a 2' length of the crap stuff, and wrapped it around her wrists, then said, "OK get loose" she did in about 10 seconds.
Although I think about duct taping LOML up from time to time, I could never do it and live to tell the story. ;) :D

- Vaughn

[Jim Becker]

Although I think about duct taping LOML up from time to time, I could never do it and live to tell the story.

Sadly, the TOS prevents us from suggesting some ideas for keeping yourself alive before, during and after this particular thing... ;)

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Andy you are killing me :D

Barry, a Marine? You flatter me, more like a McGyver (Yes I have a Swiss Army knife).

Vaughn & Jim........:rolleyes: I just knew that someone would take the whole Duc tape thing the wrong way ;) :D

Really the Japanese copy (made in China no doubt) does not hold a candle to the real stuff.

Cheers!

[Norman Hitt]

Andy you are killing me :D



Really the Japanese copy (made in China no doubt) does not hold a candle to the real stuff.

Cheers!

Hey, Stu, ya'll aren't so "Special" over there, 'cause we can get that High Quality "Break-away" Duct tape here too,:( (course, we have to make a special trip to "Harbor Freight" to get it).:rolleyes: :D

Good Job on the Sawing Jig, and if you can get a little bit of that UHMW Tape to put on the inside of that Angle piece you welded up, it will slide much easier too.;)

[Tom Andersen]

I have a Granberg Mini-mill which I will try first time next weekend. My logs are big, so I am not sure that the bar (32") is long enough to stick out on the other side when I cut the two vertical sides of the log after having used my Alaskan to make the top horizontal cut.

My question is: Is there a danger of kick-back if the tip does not stick out on the other side of the log during miling?

Regards from Sweden
Tom

[Byron Trantham]

My question is: Is there a danger of kick-back if the tip does not stick out on the other side of the log during miling?

Regards from Sweden
Tom
Tom, I'm no chain saw expert but I have experienced ONE kick back and it scared me more the the time I put my thumb through my table saw! My take would be, if in doubt - DON'T. Send us some pics of your work. I think it would be interesting to see.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I have a Granberg Mini-mill which I will try first time next weekend. My logs are big, so I am not sure that the bar (32") is long enough to stick out on the other side when I cut the two vertical sides of the log after having used my Alaskan to make the top horizontal cut.

My question is: Is there a danger of kick-back if the tip does not stick out on the other side of the log during miling?

Regards from Sweden
Tom
No, I do not thing you have to worry about kickback, the part of the bar that would cause kick back is following in the cut.

If you go to the English Granberg site and look at thier video gallery, you will see the mini mill in action. In the video, the first 40 cm or so fo the cut, the saw is not going all the way through the log.

Granber Video Gallery (http://www.granberg.com/video_gallery.htm)
(This is not an advertisement for Granberg, just info on the safe operation of the mini mill)

Cheers!

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I got down in the Dungeon today and did a test cut on a board I have, I de-wained it :rolleyes: :D



I put the angle iron on the guide board, making my track....
http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/tlh_jr_track_on_2x8.jpg
I counter sunk the holes, but after screwing it down, I still needed to grind off the side of the screws.

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/tlh_jr_track_board_on_wood.jpg
Here the track is on the piece of lumber I'm using to make the test cut

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/tlh_jr_first_test_cut_almost.jpg
Ready to make the cut

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/tlh_jr_first_test_cut_start_closeup.jpg
Seems to be working OK...

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/tlh_jr_first_test_cut.jpg
The first test cut done!One end of the board has a nice crotch in it, and I did not want to cut through, so I cut that off.

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/tlh_jr_second_test_cut.jpg
Second test cut done

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/tlh_jr_second_done.jpg
I think this will do nicely!

I'll be able to cut the sides off my logs, so I do not need to carry around this extra wood, or the mess the bark makes. I'm using normal chain, as I don't want to make another rip chain, this chainsaw is my main unit for cross cutting to length. I could get another chain, but for the few cuts I'll make, I think I'll stick with what I have. Only two more days at the wood lot, mabye three in total anyways.

Cheers!

PS Andy, please notice the Duc tape on the handle covering the foam :D

[Andy Hoyt]

Noted and approved:D

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

It looks like I may not be going to the wood lot tomorrow (Tuesday) as it is snowing here like back in the Great White North.....

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=31256&d=1139246165

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=31255&d=1139246156


Actually, I also have two wine tastings to go to, and with the roads being a disaster, I'll be taking the trains, so I think I'll wait until Wednesday......:(

[Ted Christiansen]

Stu,

Your creativity is impressive. However, instead of another piece of equipment, why cant you just just roll the logs to cut three faces? This is what I do with the Logosol TimberJig.

1. Attach end brackets and guide rail. Make first cut, remove guide rail and brackets.
2. Roll the log so the 1st face is vertical. Attach guide rail and make second cut.
3. Roll the log so the 2nd face is vertical. Attach guide rail and make third cut.
4. Now roll the log so the last curved face is on the ground.
5. Cut the log through and through

This way all of the boards come off the "mill" already edged!

Ted

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

One of the reasons why is I can't get my hands on a Cant, seriously I've searched high and low.

I could build one, but that would be..........another piece of equipment :D

Besides, this will work so slick, and I can do quartersawn with it as well.

Cheers!

[Ted Christiansen]

Stu,

Should have been "can't" not cant - perhaps that is why could could not find one.

I think your Tokyo Log Hog could be used to make the three cuts using the guide board. The boards would come off the mill without any bark for less mess when hauling into the shop. Another advantage is after the first three cuts the chain is no longer cutting through dirt impacted bark. The result is that the chain will stay sharp(er) longer.

Ted

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Ted, I appreciate the input, but I guess I'm not explaining my self well enough.

The Log Hog Jr. will be used at the wood lot for making the 2nd and 3rd cuts...........

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/stuff/log.jpg
The log, in all it's glory, sitting there minding it's own business, but about to be given a hair cut.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/stuff/1st_cut.jpg
First cut is done by the Tokyo Log Hog Sr., this is the large mill that is powered by the Husky engine chainsaw

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/stuff/2nd_3rd_cuts.jpg
The next two cuts are done by the new smaller mill, the Tokyo Log Hog Jr.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/stuff/and_so_on.jpg
The remainder of the log is then sawn up with the Tokyo Log Hog Sr.

Is that clear?

I'm going on Thursday, they were not ready for me on Tuesday anyways. In the morning today (Wednesday) I'm going to the woodlot with a can of spray paint, and I'm going to mark the logs I want, the rest will get carted away, the ones I mark will be set aside so I can mill them on Thursday.

Cheers!

[Tom Andersen]

Hi Stu,

The question is then whether one can make a vertical cut through the center of the log as well for quartersawing. This will be a "plunge" cut without the saw tip sticking out. See the files below and in the next post.

Regards from Sweden
Tom

[Tom Andersen]

here's the last pic

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I would say that the saw with the jig can do this no problem. I found this on the web, it shows the common causes of kick back.......
http://www.rentrain.com/resources/kickback.gif
......as you can see the "Red Zone" is marked and that is the area of the chain that causes kickback, you want to keep that from hitting anything.



Vertical Mill

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/stuff/log_hog_jr_kickback.jpg
The blue bar in the pic is the Tokyo Log Hog Jr mill, or in your case the Mini Mill.

The saw is mounted with the top of the saw facing towards you, so the top of the chain bar is at the back of the cut.

You can see in the crude picture that I made up that the kickback zone follows in the cut, it is cutting nothing but air, so there cannot be a kick back.

This is why you see the bar in the mill inclined like it is, I don't think you need a big angle, only a few degrees should work.

I hope this explains it, I'm also no "Expert" I'm only passing on what I've learned from doing some of this stuff, and my observations.

Check with Granberg, send them an e-mail asking about it, they sold you the mill, is there not some instructions in the box? I know, I don't read the instructions much either, but when playing with chainsaws, I figure it would be worth it ;) :D

Hope this helps!!

Cheers!

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Well, after not being able to find a cant hook for my logging, I decided to make one...

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/cant_timber_jack1.jpg

It is a combo Cant and Timber Jack

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/cant_timber_jack.jpg

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/cant_pieces.jpg

The Timber Jack bit comes off.

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/cant_bite_1.jpg

The design may need a bit more tweaking, I'll see tomorrow.

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/log_hog_jr/cant_bite_2.jpg

Wish me luck!

[Vaughn McMillan]

What? :eek: They don't sell cant hooks and timber jacks in Tokyo? Knock me over with a feather! And here I always though Japan was a civilized kind of place with all the modern conveniences. :D Looks like another fine addition to your growing pile of shop-made tools.

Stu, your ingenuity puts the Professor on Gilligan's Island to shame.

- Vaughn

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

OK, I'm back!

See my post on the Logging in Tokyo (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=27490&page=11) for more info.

I just wanted to post this pic here for now......

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/jackpot/feb9th/second_cut_tip_buried.jpg

...the tip is completely buried in wood, and no kick back at all, worked like a champ!

Cheers!

[Ted Christiansen]

Stu,

I really like the electric chainsaw idea. That would allow me to cut logs in my garage without the smell and less noise.

Anyone know if there is an electric chainsaw available in the U.S., preferably one that I can use the bars/chains from the Husky 385XP? I have looked on the Internet and found a few, but am not sure if the bars/chains will fit.

Also, these are probably universal motors (like routers). Have you had any issues with it getting too hot? I doubt these electric chainsaws were designed for this kind of continuous duty cycle.

Ted

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

The one in the pic is a Shindaiwa, I think this brand is sold in the US.

Go to a site like OregonChain.com and find your bars, then find the electric chainsaws and check to see if they have the same bars etc.

I've not had a problem with over heating, that saw there just rips through the wood, it has a lot of power!

Cheers!

[Homer Faucett]

Looks like one heckuva nice custom setup to me, Stu! Congrats!

[Tom Andersen]

I tried on Saturday to use my Granberg MiniMill as shown in drawing 3 of my previous post (this thread). The log was a large oak log (the thickest one shown on these pics: http://home1.stofanet.dk/t_a/). The "embedded" cut with the bar burried in the log worked ok with a small bar and saw, but I was rather scared because if internal stresses in the log squeeze the bar of the saw, I believe that it can make a kickback, so I am not going to do this again. I also tried to make the two edging cuts on the sides of the log (again drawing 3) with the MiniMill and then using my Stihl 064 with a 32" bar, and it didn't really work. I believe that oak is too hard for such a large bar and a MiniMill. I couldn't get pressure enough to get serious cutting going. Also, you can't use the extra oiler.

Conclusions:

1) I won't do "embedded" bar milling again
2) Don't count on edging big hardwood logs with the MiniMill
3) The MiniMill is fine with a small saw bar for edging beams in the 2-8" range.

Regards
Tom

PS: Stu, everything that you do is SO impressive. Are you really sure that you should run a liquer and tobacco shop for living? :)

[Ted Christiansen]

Tom,

I think the Logosol TimberJig would work better for you. I have used it and a Husqvarna 385XP to cut alot of wood since April 2005. See my homepage for more information. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

Ted

[Bernhard Kühnen]

Well done Stu, I agree Mig is better than electrical welding. Now that you have this nice tool I am wondering whether there is still left some wood or do you get some from your well-known construction area.

Good luck

Bernhard

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Tom, do you have a ripping chain on your saw?

I made my own, and boy does it work, I can actally bog down the big 85cc long stroke, big torque, Husky saw now!

Cuts VERY well.

I think this could be your main trouble.

Cheers!

PS I've updated the "logging in Tokyo thread, new pics!"

Cheers!

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Tom, I also wanted to add that you must use wedges and dogs. Get the LONG skinny wedges, they work better for this, and dogs, well they are like a two pointed nail, with both ends bent in the same direction at 90 degrees, like this...

|___|

If that makes sense.

Cheers!

[Tom Andersen]

Stu, I'm impressed by all the stuff you've got going so quickly. I've ripping chains from Oregon and Granberg, and I feel that Oregon is a little better than Granberg allthough it's hard to tell for sure. They are more easy to grind also. I have a Nick the Grinder. I have also done ripping with a regular cross-cut chain and it worked just fine for ripping.

The wedges that I use are self-made and slightly thicker than the kerf. I have painted them to see them in the saw dust. I don't have dogs (Hard to get into oak? Where do I buy them?) but I use some steel plates with holes and nails that I don't hammer in all of the way, so I can pull them out with a crowbar.

I have learned a lot from Maloff's book. Chainsaw milling is hard but fun. It's difficult to explain to my family why I do it!

You seem to be doing fine when you edge the logs. Are your logs of hardwood? I believe that I would have been doing much better if the wood hadn't been oak that is rock hard.

When I get the camera back from my daughter (sigh) I may post some pics.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Must be some hard Oak you have there Tom.

The wood I'm cutting is hardwood, the Sakura I was doing before was really hard, and the Keiyaki I'm doing now is also hard, but it sounds like you have me beat with this Oak.

I guess you could make some dogs, or find someone who does timber framing...?

Good luck, look forward to the pics!

Cheers!

[Tom Andersen]

Stu, I'm impressed by all the stuff you've got going so quickly. I've ripping chains from Oregon and Granberg, and I feel that Oregon is a little better than Granberg allthough it's hard to tell for sure. They are more easy to grind also. I have a Nick the Grinder. I have also done ripping with a regular cross-cut chain and it worked just fine for ripping.

The wedges that I use are self-made and slightly thicker than the kerf. I have painted them to see them in the saw dust. I don't have dogs (Hard to get into oak? Where do I buy them?) but I use some steel plates with holes and nails that I don't hammer in all of the way, so I can pull them out with a crowbar.

I have learned a lot from Maloff's book. Chainsaw milling is hard but fun. It's difficult to explain to my family why I do it!

You seem to be doing fine when you edge the logs. Are your logs of hardwood? I believe that I would have been doing much better if the wood hadn't been oak that is rock hard.

When I get the camera back from my daughter (sigh) I may post some pics.

Hi guys, If Stu thought that this thread had ended, he was wrong! :) . Here's a photo of the oak that I cut with my Alaskan. And it's quartersawn. A lot of hard work but fun.

Tom