On my first two pieces - King's Adirondack chairs

[brad hays]

I'm just starting off on my first two commissioned pieces, two of Mr. King's very fine Adirondack chairs. I visited this particular local lumber yard this past weekend as I thought they had some Eastern Red Cedar that would've worked well, but since it was only 4/4 I ended up going with their 6/4 Red Oak as that's what the owner suggested. I haven't seen anyone make one of these chairs out of Oak yet so I hope I haven't shot myself in the foot here. These things are gonna be SO heavy, but I guess that's why they have wheels.

Since I've never worked with anything this dense before I thought I'd write to ask about the ins and outs of working with this heftier wood. I've got some good machines to help get it done... table saw, router table w/ lift, thickness planer, jointer, band saw, belt sander, part templates, etc. So no excuse I can't make this happen! I've read some instances where these chairs can rack so I'm concerned using a heavier wood will make them more prone. These are both to be painted solid white (filling all screw holes with dowels) and I'm wondering if the liberal use of glue in all the joints would help any with it's rigidity. I haven't seen the idea mentioned one way or the other. I'd be glad to go through the extra effort of using glue but I'm actually thinking that it might not do a joint any good where the two surfaces weren't previously machined to meet each other exactly flat.

Also, I'm wondering about the finish coats. The clients are requesting white, and because they're well traveled they're imagining the Adirondack chairs they've seen at high end country clubs and they're wanting something that resembles those... and all I know to do is ask the pimple face kid at the HD paint desk for something exterior grade. Should I just do a color coat or do some kind of clear as well? I just don't know how this is best done for exterior furniture. I'd actually like to get some kind of paint gun and give that a go since I've got a big enough compressor to push one now.

Here's what I'm looking to make... All advice appreciated.

511052

[Richard Coers]

Red oak is not good for outdoor. The pores of the wood are open and will wick water into the boards, especially the end grain of the legs) White oak is the perfect wood for outdoors, but the price has skyrocketed.

[Tom M King]

I'd give painted Red Oak three years outside. Today's paint is great stuff, but it's like putting wood in a plastic bag.

[Rob Luter]

Agreed that the Red Oak is a poor choice for exterior applications. If there is a path to reversing that decision I'd try to follow it. The only exception would be if the chairs are intended for a covered porch or some other location that's shielded from the weather. If that's the case you have a fighting chance. I'll second Tom's concern on the paint too. The wood will rot under the paint. If They have to have Red Oak and they have to have white, I might bleach the wood, seal the end grain, and then use some sort of whitewash looking exterior stain that will allow it to breathe.

[Mel Fulks]

Pretty chair, but I think it needs to be more open ,it’s too solid…..you ain’t makin’ a cricket cage ! Let some air and light in .
Will be easier to paint .

[Richard Coers]

I remembered a great technique for the legs. Send a couple brass screws into he bottom of the legs to be used to hook an epoxy pad to the wood. Then build a dam around the bottom of the legs and pour a pad of epoxy. Seals the end grain and limits rot.

[Terry Therneau]

I have made several (15) for the family out of cypress, and they hold up well: several years old now, 12/15 are outside year round (southern Minn). The pattern I like is from the New Yankee Workshop, and uses only 3/4 material, I don't think 1" is needed unless you are abusing it. (Example: when I tried to use one as a ladder and it flipped when I stepped on the arm. Doh! But I was able to repair it.)

Terry T.

[Derek Cohen]

Brad,I do not have experience of Red Oak but, if others here I trust say it is not a good choice, then I would go along with this advice. My preference would be Merbau, which is relatively cheap, but better oiled than painted. Or, better still, Teak.

This is the plan I used, and much prefer the design to the one you have. It is very classical and had great lines ...

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/furniture/22231169/build-an-adirondack-chair

https://i.postimg.cc/DwXCqm7B/Adirondack-chair-illo-jpg-optimal.jpg (https://postimg.cc/18ycSmnq)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Maurice Mcmurry]

That looks excellent. I like the natural finish and the thick wood you used on the arms.

[Jim Becker]

The reason that folks say not to use red oak is that it’s built like a bundle of soda straws and wicks up/retains moisture. That causes rot and creature issues quickly outdoors. Whit oak does not have this “feature” and performs well outdoors.

[John Pendery]

Hey Brad, I think you got a bum suggestion from that lumberyard. White oak is great for exterior applications, but red oak doesn’t do so well. If your client wants these painted and to live outside I would save the red oak for a future project. Visit Aetna (used to be Hardwood Specialties) off Old Frankfort Pike and get Sapele for these chairs. The folks at the Painted Horse on Richmond Rd are very knowledgeable and carry much better paint products than Home Depot or Lowes. I humbly make these suggestions for the well being of you and your customer!

[Bob Riefer]

I built a set out of white oak many years ago, and they rotted much more quickly than I would have expected (even with annual care). It was still worth it as a learning experience at the time, but if you want them to last they will do better on a surface that drains (rather than on grass or dirt) and if you cover them when not in use (or at least for winter). I think I got about 5 years out of mine sitting in the grass and without cover, but they would have lasted twice as long (or more) if I took my own advice from previous sentence.

Also, presently building Morris chairs out of white oak, and I'll admit it's somewhat of a workout to manage. Heavy to move, hard to sand or chisel etc. Not dissuading you, just eat your Wheaties.