Mortise marking suggestions.

[Rob Luter]

I had an mint old Stanley #77 that found a new home in a tool purge due to non-use. I’m getting ready to launch a few projects with a fair bit of M&T joinery and could use a dedicated mortise gauge. I have a Tite-Mark I use for day to day marking. Are the mortise accessories worth the investment? I’d almost rather have something dedicated so I can keep it set up for the whole project and still use the Tite-Mark for other needs. What is a tool junky to do?

[Tony Wilkins]

Several options… titemark additions, the double Veritas, a cheap traditional pin mortise gauge, a second gauge to mark the second edge, resetting the tight mark to second edge, or just don’t mark second edge at all.

[Jim Koepke]

…
I’m getting ready to launch a few projects with a fair bit of M&T joinery and could use a dedicated mortise gauge. I have a Tite-Mark I use for day to day marking. Are the mortise accessories worth the investment? I’d almost rather have something dedicated so I can keep it set up for the whole project and still use the Tite-Mark for other needs. What is a tool junky to do?

Tools for working wood has them starting at under $20 > https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-COMBG.XX/Combination+Mortise+Gauges

Lee Valley has nicer models at higher prices > https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/marking-gauges/32621-mortise-marking-gauges?item=35N0201

Besides having a dedicated tool, one thing that makes me skeptical about the "mortise accessories" is one has to be purchased for each size of chisel. Then there is a possibility it isn't an exact match to one's chisel.

Another option would be to make your own gauge.

jtk

[Rob Luter]

Thanks for the tips Jim. I’m torn between pin gauges and cutting gauges. I have a couple of single pin gauges and have honed the pins to cut instead of scratch. The cutting style seems to work better for me. I work with QSWO quite a bit and between the hardness and grain marking can be a challenge. I use blue tape a lot (thanks for the tip Mike Peckovich). I have LN mortise chisels and may check with them on the match between their chisels and the TM mortise cutters.

[Jim Koepke]

I have LN mortise chisels and may check with them on the match between their chisels and the TM mortise cutters.

I like the Tite-Mark so much I bought another that was listed on the SMC Classifieds. It is currently sitting in Customs. Strange since it was originally made in the U.S. Though it is being sent to me from Canada.

When using gauges it is convenient to have multiples for different sizes.

jtk

[Tony Wilkins]

Thanks for the tips Jim. I’m torn between pin gauges and cutting gauges. I have a couple of single pin gauges and have honed the pins to cut instead of scratch. The cutting style seems to work better for me. I work with QSWO quite a bit and between the hardness and grain marking can be a challenge. I use blue tape a lot (thanks for the tip Mike Peckovich). I have LN mortise chisels and may check with them on the match between their chisels and the TM mortise cutters.
I have a TM mortise cutter and a 1/4’ LN mortise chisel. I you want, I can check to see how closely they match.

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks for the tips Jim. I’m torn between pin gauges and cutting gauges. I have a couple of single pin gauges and have honed the pins to cut instead of scratch. The cutting style seems to work better for me. I work with QSWO quite a bit and between the hardness and grain marking can be a challenge. I use blue tape a lot (thanks for the tip Mike Peckovich). I have LN mortise chisels and may check with them on the match between their chisels and the TM mortise cutters.

Rob, for M&T marking, my preference is a Japanese cutting gauge (the one in the middle below) or my own design (on the right), which is effectively the same style but with fixed cutters ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Vfv0zwmQ/Veritas-Dual-Marking-Gauge-Kinshiro-Cohen.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

I do have a wheel gauge (as seen on the left), but the issue with wheel gauges is that they may be fantastic at scoring face grain, but do not deal well enough with end grain. In end grain the wheels cut lightly, and often the marks disappear as the end grain closes up.

Cutting gauges work wonderfully in both face- and end grain.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Christopher Charles]

I'll second Derek, I have used a crown pin gauge (not a fan), the LV on the left in Derek's photo, which is ok, and I have a Japanese gauge very similar to the photo in the middle I bought from Stu right before he closed shop, which is a delight. Short version, would also suggest a cutting gauge.

[Rob Luter]

Rob, for M&T marking, my preference is a Japanese cutting gauge (the one in the middle below) or my own design (on the right), which is effectively the same style but with fixed cutters ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Vfv0zwmQ/Veritas-Dual-Marking-Gauge-Kinshiro-Cohen.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

I do have a wheel gauge (as seen on the left), but the issue with wheel gauges is that they may be fantastic at scoring face grain, but do not deal well enough with end grain. In end grain the wheels cut lightly, and often the marks disappear as the end grain closes up.

Cutting gauges work wonderfully in both face- and end grain.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks for chiming in Derek. I love a cutting style gauge and made one that’s very effective, but it’s a single blade style. The version depicted in the center of your photo is something I think would suit me well. Where does one find a tool of this type?

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks for chiming in Derek. I love a cutting style gauge and made one that’s very effective, but it’s a single blade style. The version depicted in the center of your photo is something I think would suit me well. Where does one find a tool of this type?

Rob, here is the development ...

Japanese double gauges - mine is a Kinshiro - cut fantastically, but can be a bugger to set up for the offset. This is how you do it ...


Mark across the width with the mortice chisel, as shown below.

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/AHandcutMorticeandTenonPrimer-BlindMortice_html_19759670.jpg



This is going to aid in setting up the mortice gauge. Simply place the ends of the knives (or points) in the ends of the cut. This sets up the cutting width.

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/AHandcutMorticeandTenonPrimer-BlindMortice_html_m4d3a214c.jpg



Now slide the head of the gauge against the work piece to set its depth. This completes setting up the mortice gauge.

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/AHandcutMorticeandTenonPrimer-BlindMortice_html_557894d4.jpg



Mark the mortice lines.


My mortice cutting gauge is my design (2015), aimed at the best of all worlds: knives plus fixed positions, so that setting the offset is a simple matter.


It is based on the Kinshiro profile, but has a Western arm. It is made from some scrap Fiddleback Jarrah and brass. The fence is 4 ½" long x 2 ½" high ...

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_3ae886dd.jpg


The novel feature here is that the blade is a fixed width, but is exchangeable for other fixed width blades ..


The knives are made from 4mm thick HSS (they should not need resharpening for a while!). So far I have made double-sided knives for a 1/4", 3/16" and 3/8" mortice-and-tenons, and two straight knives (I made a second when I realised that the first would score 3/8" away from the fence). The idea for these knives came from dovetail planes. Hone the blades on the inside faces only.

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_da0209c.jpg



The knives sit in a brass "cassette". This is fitted permanently in the arm ...

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_4e779d81.jpg


As seen in the first image, each knife may be dropped in or out and is held with a setscrew. As mentioned earlier, I have not seen a similar system on a marking gauge before.


One of the advantages of using HSS is that you can heat it without fear of ruining the hardness.


I used a Dremel to shape the centre semicircle, and then a thin, round stone on the drill press to round the inside into a curve.


https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_m5150f032.jpg


Once the external size is done, leave it alone. Sharpen only from the inside.


The second design feature is a rounded lower section to the arm ..

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_m2dae86fa.jpg


https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_4fd79370.jpg


The reason for this is twofold:


Firstly, this is a very strong design that locks the arm very securely. Just a little downforce and there is no sideways movement at all.


Secondly, the rounded lower section offers better visibility that either a square section or a cutaway at the knife.

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_1ff5cd98.jpg


In practice, this is very comfortable to use, and the knives cut clean lines both with and across the grain.


https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_43e8b058.jpg




The full article is here:
https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges.html

Thinking out aloud: is this worth sending to FWW?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Chuck Hill]

I'd prefer sending it to Robin Lee! Well thought out!

[Mark Rainey]

Rob, here is the development ...

Japanese double gauges - mine is a Kinshiro - cut fantastically, but can be a bugger to set up for the offset. This is how you do it ...


Mark across the width with the mortice chisel, as shown below.

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/AHandcutMorticeandTenonPrimer-BlindMortice_html_19759670.jpg



This is going to aid in setting up the mortice gauge. Simply place the ends of the knives (or points) in the ends of the cut. This sets up the cutting width.

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/AHandcutMorticeandTenonPrimer-BlindMortice_html_m4d3a214c.jpg



Now slide the head of the gauge against the work piece to set its depth. This completes setting up the mortice gauge.


Nice method on on setting offset Derek. My problem is using the same mortise width on the tenon piece and the offset is different. For now I pinch the two blade rods together when I change the offset. It would be nice if it could the mortise width could be fixed in position.

[Rob Luter]

Rob, here is the development ...

Japanese double gauges - mine is a Kinshiro - cut fantastically, but can be a bugger to set up for the offset. This is how you do it ...


Mark across the width with the mortice chisel, as shown below.

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/AHandcutMorticeandTenonPrimer-BlindMortice_html_19759670.jpg



This is going to aid in setting up the mortice gauge. Simply place the ends of the knives (or points) in the ends of the cut. This sets up the cutting width.

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/AHandcutMorticeandTenonPrimer-BlindMortice_html_m4d3a214c.jpg



Now slide the head of the gauge against the work piece to set its depth. This completes setting up the mortice gauge.

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/AHandcutMorticeandTenonPrimer-BlindMortice_html_557894d4.jpg



Mark the mortice lines.


My mortice cutting gauge is my design (2015), aimed at the best of all worlds: knives plus fixed positions, so that setting the offset is a simple matter.


It is based on the Kinshiro profile, but has a Western arm. It is made from some scrap Fiddleback Jarrah and brass. The fence is 4 ½" long x 2 ½" high ...

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_3ae886dd.jpg


The novel feature here is that the blade is a fixed width, but is exchangeable for other fixed width blades ..


The knives are made from 4mm thick HSS (they should not need resharpening for a while!). So far I have made double-sided knives for a 1/4", 3/16" and 3/8" mortice-and-tenons, and two straight knives (I made a second when I realised that the first would score 3/8" away from the fence). The idea for these knives came from dovetail planes. Hone the blades on the inside faces only.

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_da0209c.jpg



The knives sit in a brass "cassette". This is fitted permanently in the arm ...

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_4e779d81.jpg


As seen in the first image, each knife may be dropped in or out and is held with a setscrew. As mentioned earlier, I have not seen a similar system on a marking gauge before.


One of the advantages of using HSS is that you can heat it without fear of ruining the hardness.


I used a Dremel to shape the centre semicircle, and then a thin, round stone on the drill press to round the inside into a curve.


https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_m5150f032.jpg


Once the external size is done, leave it alone. Sharpen only from the inside.


The second design feature is a rounded lower section to the arm ..

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_m2dae86fa.jpg


https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_4fd79370.jpg


The reason for this is twofold:


Firstly, this is a very strong design that locks the arm very securely. Just a little downforce and there is no sideways movement at all.


Secondly, the rounded lower section offers better visibility that either a square section or a cutaway at the knife.

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_1ff5cd98.jpg


In practice, this is very comfortable to use, and the knives cut clean lines both with and across the grain.


https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_43e8b058.jpg




The full article is here:
https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges.html

Thinking out aloud: is this worth sending to FWW?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Very clever. This looks like a nice "next project". I have the wood and access to HSS stock to make cutters. I made something similar (single cutter) and couple years ago and it works very well.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53342320315_86f6a023de_b.jpg

[Warren Mickley]

I had an mint old Stanley #77 that found a new home in a tool purge due to non-use. I’m getting ready to launch a few projects with a fair bit of M&T joinery and could use a dedicated mortise gauge. I have a Tite-Mark I use for day to day marking. Are the mortise accessories worth the investment? I’d almost rather have something dedicated so I can keep it set up for the whole project and still use the Tite-Mark for other needs. What is a tool junky to do?

The traditional method is to use fixed pin mortise gauges, where the gauge matches the mortise chisel. This way the gauge is set up for width of the mortise and you only need to adjust the fence.

In this method, you can fine tune the distance between pins by filing on the inside or outside edges of the pins. For instance, if you find that after sawing your tenons are a little fat for your mortises, you can narrow the distance between pins so that the tenon fits right off the saw. So faster, more accurate, more efficient.

This gauge from Roubo is set up for multiple gauges; The gauges in the Seaton chest are set up for individual chisels.

510873

[Mark Rainey]

The traditional method is to use fixed pin mortise gauges, where the gauge matches the mortise chisel. This way the gauge is set up for width of the mortise and you only need to adjust the fence.

In this method, you can fine tune the distance between pins by filing on the inside or outside edges of the pins. For instance, if you find that after sawing your tenons are a little fat for your mortises, you can narrow the distance between pins so that the tenon fits right off the saw. So faster, more accurate, more efficient.

This gauge from Roubo is set up for multiple gauges; The gauges in the Seaton chest are set up for individual chisels.

510873

Well that solves the issue Warren. Almost all my mortises are only three sizes ( 1/4inch, 3/8inch and 1/2inch ) so I should have 3 gauges fine tuned to my chisels and not move the pins. You are right Warren, those old guys knew how to get things done efficiently.

[Tony Shea]

Outside of Derek's shop made mortise gauge and his incredibly fancy Japanese mortise gauge, I find the Veritas Dual Marking Gauge to be my favorite for use on mortise/tenons. I have the Titemark as well as the two other single blade Veritas wheel marking gauges and still always reach for the Dual Marking gauge for mortises. I also use this gauge if I need to mark something where I want the bevel of the wheel is on the opposite side of a standard marking gauge, ie for marking thickness of a board I'm thicknessing by hand. The Titemark reverse bevel wheel just isn't as nice as the version on the Veritas. The Titemark reverse bevel wheel has a high angle on the wheel and doesn't create as fine of a line as the Veritas.

If I had access and money to pick up a Japanese Kebiki mortise gauge then I'd have no doubt this would be my favorite. I really like the looks of the large registration face and the knife blades look to be amazing. For general layout I prefer my Japanese marking knife over all the other fancy marking knives I have.

[steven c newman]

Used to be...I would just set a combo square up...Mark from both sides of the Mortise, and carry on...Marked with a SHARP No. 2 Pencil...as I needed to see the lines to chop to.

[Cameron Wood]

Here's my assortment.

The two in the foreground I laboriously reground for left handed use. the others must be used right handed, or pushed instead of pulled.
The wheel one is handy for some things, & functions as a depth gauge. The pin one from long ago I never use.
It's good to have multiple for projects that have various different mortises.

511160

This is also useful:

511161

[Jim Koepke]

This is also useful:

511161

This could have notches cut at various points matched to mortise chisels and be an excellent shop made mortise gauge.

jtk

[Cameron Wood]

This could have notches cut at various points matched to mortise chisels and be an excellent shop made mortise gauge.

jtk



Don't be talkin' about filing notches in my Shinwa precision rule!:eek:

[Ben Ellenberger]

I bought the 1/4” Tite-mark accessory (don’t have one of their gauges) and have it on a wheel-type marking gauge. The vast majority of my mortises are 1/4”, so I find it handy. For any other size I use an adjustable pin-type gauge, which doesn’t get down to 1/4”.

If I had unlimited space and motivation and made a wider range of things I probably would make several fixed-width gauges for all of my most-common mortise sizes.

[Cameron Wood]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204495588512?hash=item2f9ce30ca0:g:jG8AAOSwYe1lJiu 4&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8P7IjGdqJJlhSx%2BHJ3fCQjKIrbT ZkOa0594HR%2BR91fxQROUonhtS6kPuwnwNaNwzAi2b%2Bf7S1 SRv9Bu%2BTlQoGZg5pwaYFu4gp9wC1jD%2F6EjRkPTtpC%2FNJ %2BzQg7O10Qbo2efnBZn%2B8T559n8796Sd5J1WT1OX%2BDJkv dt6Q8CIwtcnMOcat3dibPreB7v0emr19fRMkwJXl0rSzFy5ADE cTOcfilpUpM99D71g0tdjaTCgaQkITPO3qbHiO86MrcBBPRxb9 EWzb5%2FFvvTMZeuiWbyJ2imoVUrDsveZs1rYmmXLzDty3MM2u j94E7Rv4o1T%2Fw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM7PKK9YJj

[steven c newman]

I think I have a spare No. 77 that I could send the OP IF he wants one....

Does he want the mortise only version, or the one with the extra point? Have one of each.

[Rob Luter]

I think I have a spare No. 77 that I could send the OP IF he wants one....

Does he want the mortise only version, or the one with the extra point? Have one of each.

Thanks for the offer Steven. Hold off for now. I may break down and try one of the Tite-Mark versions. I reached out to LN and Deneb responded that they are set exactly to the width of their mortise and bench chisels. It would be one less thing for me to screw up.

[Derek Cohen]

Rob, I do not recommend the double mortice wheels for the Tite-Mark gauge. I have them from their inception, andquickly discovered that they spread the downforce, and this reduces the depth of scoring. Keep in mind that one marks the tenon as well as the mortice, and the tenon has endgrain to score. Light mks from a wheel gauge are difficult to see.

The best marking comes a knife gauge (or pins sharpened to knives), in all situations. Wheels are excellent across the grain, but then are weak with the grain and in end grain.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rob Luter]

Rob, I do not recommend the double mortice wheels for the Tite-Mark gauge. I have them from their inception, andquickly discovered that they spread the downforce, and this reduces the depth of scoring. Keep in mind that one marks the tenon as well as the mortice, and the tenon has endgrain to score. Light mks from a wheel gauge are difficult to see.

The best marking comes a knife gauge (or pins sharpened to knives), in all situations. Wheels are excellent across the grain, but then are weak with the grain and in end grain.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Yup. I revisited an old post where I compared a wheel gauge, a pin sharpened to a spear point, and a cutting style. No contest in White Oak.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?284428-Marking-gauge-improvement&p=3038687#post3038687

[Tony Shea]

Rob, I do not recommend the double mortice wheels for the Tite-Mark gauge. I have them from their inception, andquickly discovered that they spread the downforce, and this reduces the depth of scoring. Keep in mind that one marks the tenon as well as the mortice, and the tenon has endgrain to score. Light mks from a wheel gauge are difficult to see.

The best marking comes a knife gauge (or pins sharpened to knives), in all situations. Wheels are excellent across the grain, but then are weak with the grain and in end grain.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I completely agree about the Tite-Mark Mortise wheels as well as the Tite-Mark reverse wheel. For some reason the reverse wheel bevel and the mortise wheel bevels seem to be ground at a high angle compared to the standard wheel. The Veritas Dual Marking Gauge reverse bevel wheel seems to be at a much shallower angle and marks end grain very well. Not sure what Tite-Mark was thinking when they decided to grind the reverse bevel wheel at a different angle compared to the standard wheel.

I absolutely swear by my Veritas Dual Marking Gauge for mortise and tenon work. I will actually change the position of the wheels depending on if I'm marking the tenon or the mortise so the bevel is always on the waste side. I will typically mark a cutoff piece to use as my guide for switching between marking mortises and tenons. Once a piece is marked I can always go back and stick the wheels in the gauge lines and set the gauge up again. I've never had any error creep in from this technique.

I don't recommend using a single gauge and marking your lines by referencing off both faces of the piece. This is how you have errors creep in since the thickness of each piece is rarely exactly the same. It sounds like that's what Stephen is recommending using a combo square. I personally think this is bad practice and will prevent you from having at least one flat surface after assembly. It will also cause joints that are too tight or worst case very sloppy joints.

[steven c newman]

Ok..different shop, different rules....without any SALES PITCH going on....

1)...I almost always make the tenons first
2) ...I will USE that tenon to layout the location of it's mortise
3)....I will mark all around the tenon, when doing the above layout. (High priced tool? No. 2 Pencil)
4)...I will then chop the mortise, with Mallet and Chisel...while I stay INSIDE of the layout lines...
5)...Dry fit...pare IF needed..
6)...continue on with the next one...
511446
YMMV, of course...

[Tony Shea]

Ok..different shop, different rules....without any SALES PITCH going on....

1)...I almost always make the tenons first
2) ...I will USE that tenon to layout the location of it's mortise
3)....I will mark all around the tenon, when doing the above layout. (High priced tool? No. 2 Pencil)
4)...I will then chop the mortise, with Mallet and Chisel...while I stay INSIDE of the layout lines...
5)...Dry fit...pare IF needed..
6)...continue on with the next one...
511446
YMMV, of course...

I'm curious who you think is doing a "Sales Pitch"? I really doubt anyone in this thread has any affiliation with all the brands that are recommended therefore gain nothing from mentioning them.

I'm surprised that you find a #2 pencil a fine enough line for the layout. I would really struggle to nail the fit if I had to work to a standard pencil line with nothing to register my tools into. I find the constant dulling of a standard pencil to cause all sorts of issues with accuracy as the line is always changing width.

[steven c newman]

All depends on HOW one uses a pencil, doesn't it...

In my case, it is because I need to SEE where the line is. Been led astray by grain lines, too many times....Remember...I am leaving the lines, and chopping INSIDE of the lines...

When a response begins with that magic phrase.."Well, I use ( insert brand name here).....I start looking for someone selling Toyotas....Do they still run those Sellathons?

[Rob Luter]

I’m with Steven on the need to see. Fine grained wood like cherry and maple makes life easy whether I use a Tite-Mark or a cutter.

When working with White Oak, I’ve taken to using blue or yellow painters tape and cutting though that. It’s easy to see and I don’t rely on the gauge being able to cut that hard oak. I’ve been duped by grain lines a few times too.

[Jim Koepke]

Fine grained wood like cherry and maple makes life easy whether I use a Tite-Mark or a cutter.

When my aged eyes are having a problem, a very sharp pencil is used to ride in scored lines to enhance visibility.

Though the old wisdom is if something is working for you, why change it?

jtk

[Tony Shea]

Using painters tape and marking inside a score line is much different than working to just a pencil line. I will often use the blue tape method especially when cutting dovetails in dark woods....Thanks Pekovich and Derek Cohen! I almost always take a .3mm mechanical pencil and mark inside all my gauge lines. If I had to work to just a standard pencil line it would look like my joinery was cut with a hammer.

[steven c newman]

Sigh....

Some days it is nice to understand WHAT someone is talking about? Other days, some just continue on without bothering....just cherry picking bits and pieces out of someone's statements, until it fits what one does want to here.....

511509
Need 14 mortises on this board..then..when you are done..I have a second board to do 14 more mortises, that have to line up with the first 14...
511510
BTW, did I mention that you'll need to chop the mortises for these frames, too...
511511
Dry fit as you go..
511512
That's ok, just pile the slats for the seat any old place, while the glue cures..

HOW one marks THEIR layout lines is entirely up to each worker, based on how they were trained, and what tools they are used to using.

Me? Right now I am "under the weather" , feeling a bit of the GRUMPY side...but, IF one feels they NEED that fine of a point to mark layouts, or they can't do the work....so be it. My Boston and I will just have to carry on. Working with wood, and not metal working...there IS a difference....some just don't get it.

Not being "snarky"...but, I can imagine what a Sheraton would say if you claimed his way of marking a Project's layouts looked like a Hack was using a hammer....LOL...

Yes, I use that marking gauge..have about 1/2 a dozen, actually...and almost always have to trace the marks they leave, just to be able to see them
511513
Pins, never wheels...

[Tony Shea]

Not being "snarky"...but, I can imagine what a Sheraton would say if you claimed his way of marking a Project's layouts looked like a Hack was using a hammer....LOL...

If you read my posts I said nothing about your work looking like it was cut with a hammer. My post clearly says that if I used a standard pencil line for my layout it would look like MY joinery was cut with a hammer.

[Charles Edward]

All you need is enough of a mark to see to register the chisel correctly. A pin gauge is fine. You don't need elaborate gauges with exquisitely honed knives, cute wheels, and all that rot. If you can fit in a couple of gauges that stay set to your most often used chisels, then so much the better.

If the arrises will show as in through mortises in Arts and Crafts furniture, just use the cutting gauge you already own to crisp up the marks made with a pin gauge. A chisel tap works too. Otherwise, on orther mortises, the scratch from a pin is fine.

A bloated kit of tools serves more to confuse than to edify.

[Jim Koepke]

A bloated kit of tools serves more to confuse than to edify.

Very confusing, with more than a half dozen smoothers it takes me at least two seconds to decide which to use. Fortunately it takes about three seconds to walk over to the shelf where they are kept.

jtk

[Charles Edward]

Owning shelves full duplicate bench planes is a modern-day phenomenon, except perhaps for the employer who needed to keep a staff working and producing with planes he knew would get the job done with no excuses.

I've worked wood my whole life and I have no idea what I would do with two No. 4 planes, much less a half dozen or more.

[Jim Koepke]

Owning shelves full duplicate bench planes is a modern-day phenomenon, except perhaps for the employer who needed to keep a staff working and producing with planes he knew would get the job done with no excuses.

I've worked wood my whole life and I have no idea what I would do with two No. 4 planes, much less a half dozen or more.

I didn't say there are a half dozen #4 planes in my shop. The #4 isn't the only plane that is considered as a smoother. Everything from a #1 up to and including a #5 can be used for smoothing. Some people even think of the #5-1/2 (or #6) as super smoothers.

Surely some folks get by fine with two or three bench planes and maybe a block plane. Others like to have a variety. Then there are those of us who want a plane that is sized for the work.

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The piece being worked is less than 1/4X1/4X3". Even a #3 smoother would be a bit big for it.

jtk

[Cameron Wood]

Then, for precision and visibility, there's this...


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[steven c newman]

Been using this thing the last few days...
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Mainly for the single pin....it does have the Mortise Pins, as well....
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I also have a dedicated Mortise Gauge, without the extra pin...same maker.
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Tool kit for today..