Micro-Adjustable Stop Block - Shop Made

[glenn bradley]

I was watching paint dry for a while this afternoon so I knocked this one off the to-do list. Mill some scrap true, route a couple of MatchFit dovetail grooves, drill some holes, cut the block into two parts, and add some hardware.

510542
It assembles like so.
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Clamp the assembly in the approximate positions you want via the right side.
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The screw knob moves the adjustable block 1/32" per rotation.
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Once adjusted to your liking, clamp the other side of the assembly . . .
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. . . and cut your parts.

[Bill Conerly]

Cool project.

[Ray Newman]

Now that is an interesting and useful design.

[Bob Jones 5443]

Micro-adjust anything is very satisfying. Thanks for sharing.

[Michael Burnside]

Very clever, and good thinking on the fine thread. Thanks for sharing.

[Kent A Bathurst]

........... some hardware.

510542
It assembles like so. The screw knob moves the adjustable block 1/32" per rotation.

Glenn - I have thought of doing something like the but in a different application. However, I've never figured out what the bits and pieces are to allow the knurled nob to freewheel while the threaded rod is engaged in the t-nut on the 2d block.

Could you - or anyone - 'splain this to me so can get the parts to replicate?

OR - have the threaded rod attached to the 2d block so that it freewheels, and the rod moves in and out of the first block?

Thanks

[ChrisA Edwards]

I like it, what size bolt/thread pitch did you use for the adjuster?

[glenn bradley]

Thanks everyone.

@ChrisA Edwards - I used a 10-32 threaded rod so that one revolution would be about 1/32".

@Kent A Bathurst - Here's some pics that may help. The threaded knob and nut jam into each other like a normal double-nutting function to lock the nuts in position.
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The nylon lock nut holds itself in position. This position is such that the threaded rod spins freely but is not sloppy.
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The t-nut just provides the threads so that the spinning threaded rod causes the moveable block to move in and out when the rod is spun.
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I would have preferred a threaded insert but did not have that size. I had the t-nut so a bit of epoxy and it's all set. The outer rods are just solid stock that I wax a bit. These just act like guide bars to keep things from twisting during adjustment. Your requirement may or may not need this. For a heavier load you could use a heavier rod, drill the rod and slip in a cotter pin and washer instead of replying on the threaded components to hold.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Excellent description, Glenn. Thanks

One of those "how did I not figure it out?" topics, which is great - straightforward, no sneaky bits.

The closeup photos did the trick -jam nut with knurled brass, and the nylon nut as a rotating stop

Turns out I have all the needed components in a couple different thread configs.

Regards