Questions re: Sommerfeld T&G Method for Cabinets

[Patrick Varley]

Just have two questions for everyone. I am finishing up a bathroom remodel, and part of it requires a double vanity that is essentially a built-in cabinet. Haven't really done a lot of cabinet work in the past, outside messing around with shop cabinets. I've been reading/watching quite a bit on options for construction, and while I'd love to use it as an excuse to buy a Domino, can't really justify it (yet).

I came across the videos of Sommerfeld's T&G method, and it seems like a nice combination of all factors. But with that, I have two questions:

1) Anyone have comments on this method, generally?
2) I'm struggling a bit how to deal with scribing the face frame between two walls with this method. If the boxes were made separately, I'd consider making the frame but leaving one end stile off. Scribe the whole frame on one end, then scribe the separate stile on the other, then complete the frame. However with his method the frame is completed and then the boxes built to the frame. With that, seems like I'd be in the situation here I have a frame that's too large for the opening and needs to be scribed on both ends. One though is to just mark things out in the opening, then built a template of the frame and trim the completed frame to the template. Seems like it should work, but wondering if there is any additional sage advice on how to handle it.

[Dave Sabo]

Use fillers

[Rick Potter]

I built my Kitchen using his method, and it worked out well, but takes longer to build if that is a factor for you.

The question about scribing an edge of the face frame (if I understand what you are asking) is taken care of on mine by locating the inside panels on the INSIDE edges of the face frame. This gives you flush frame and panels for drawer guides, assuming use of side mounted drawers, a well as plenty of space to do any trimming.

In other words, the face frame is longer than the box. If there was an end cap needed, I made the panel for the end separate if there was a bank of drawers there, and attached it last as it was only decorative.

The cabinets were a dark Oak, and inside was all prefinished birch ply. Saved a lot of finishing inside, better too.

Hope this helps.


PS: I made an 18" tall melamine fence board for the router table. Really helped on some of the cuts.

[Rich Engelhardt]

#1. Easy peezy way to make face frame cabinet boxes. Either individual single ones or multiple ones.
Easy way to make bases for vanities and/or anything really - as long as it uses face frames.

I can't help much with the scribing since I haven't run up against it yet.
The suggestion of a filler might be the way to go.

[Jared Sankovich]

Assuming you are building inset doors and want a seamless face frame, Use a full size template, scribe to that, then transfer to the cabinet face frame.

[Tom Bain]

Jared has the right answer for scribing if you need to fit a cabinet between two walls ... or a left and right template if the opening is really large. Also a good idea to bevel cut the back side of the outside stiles before assembly. Makes it much easier to scribe to the wall as you don't have to cut through the full thickness of the stiles.

I use the Sommerfeld matched bits for cabinets and it's a great system once you have it dialed in. If you are doing multiple cabinets it's best to have all your parts cut to size and then batch out all the tongue and groove cuts on the router table. Personally, I try to minimize pocket holes/screws as much as possible so whenever I can I use Dominos to join the inner stiles/dividers to the top and bottom rails. On the outside stiles it can be a little trickier depending on the size of the cabinet. I like pre-finishing the face frame and using pre-finished plywood on the interior as it really speeds up the process. Here is a set of (backless) shop cabinets I built with the Sommerfeld method. The face frame is one giant unit.

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[Patrick Varley]

Thanks for the insight everyone.

I ended up purchasing the set, and threw together a test cabinet. Very happy with the quality of the bits and the method in general. Surprisingly straightforward.

I'll probably end up making a full size template for the face frame and use that to trim things. Filler strips would certainly be the easiest, but not really the aesthetic for which I'm looking.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I hope you like the system as much as I do.
One thing I didn't mention above is the Sommerfeld Featherguard.
I have a few other feather boards & some shop made ones, but, the Sommerfeld FG works the best with his system.

It works exceptionally well for that one climb cutting operation.

It's $24.90 (page 9 of the catalog) so you need to spend another $.10 for free shipping. Maybe another grommet or two (.$.49 ea - page 6 of the catalog)