What Undermount Drawslide?

[Mike Congiusti]

I’m getting ready to start building draw boxes next week for a lingerie chest for the wife. I plan on using full extension under mount draw slides. I’m thinking of using the Blum 563H. The cabinet will be 19 ½ deep X 17” wide.

Is this a good choice? Any other choices?

Second question, can I use half blind dovetails? If not, I will use domino's.

Lastly, best place to purchase them.

First time building a dresser.

Thanks,

Mike

[John Pendery]

I’ve always used and continue to use Blum tandem drawer slides. My local hardwood dealer was recently bought out by Aetna supply and they have been trying to get me to switch to Salice, but to me they don't seem to function as smoothly as Blum.

Drawer joinery shouldn’t matter as long as you account for the rear notch these drawer slides require, but drawer thickness matters. I think H series is for 1/2-5/8” thickness, while F series is 5/8-3/4” drawer side thickness.

Lots of cabinet supply sources online with competitive pricing for larger orders. Sources like Lee Valley and Woodcraft are much pricier, but package components in such a way that you wont accidentally order mismatched parts depending on how you plan to mount them.

[Rob Sack]

The Blum 563H is an excellent slide. Check to make sure you have enough depth for the 18" slide. A 19 1/2" deep cabinet should be fine as long as you end up with over 18 3/4 - 19" in the clear after accounting for backs and/or nailers. The 18" 563H measures around 18 1/2" in total length and needs to be slightly inset around 1/8" from the front in order for the drawer to close completely. As far as the best place to purchase them, check with some local wholesale cabinet hardware suppliers that cater to professional woodworkers. My local supplier will sell to the general public and their prices are considerably lower than most of the national suppliers of retail woodworking supplies and big box stores.

[Bob Jones 5443]

I threw caution to the winds yesterday and actually called Rockler on the phone. Really.

Best decision. I spoke for about twenty minutes with a lady who knew exactly what I was asking about, and had the part numbers at her fingertips. We talked about self closing Euro cup door hinges and Blumotion drawer slides. I’ll buy from them when I’m ready. After receiving 1990-caliber live personal attention and useful advice, I’d feel like I’m betraying them by price shopping. They earned my business.

May they continue to thrive in this hostile online ecosystem.

[Dennis Yamamoto]

I believe that Blum tandem 563H's require about a 5/16" side recess. So, if you want to do half blind dovetails in front for an inset drawer, you will have to account for this. I did this by using about a 7/8" thick drawer front and cut about a 5/16" by 1/2" rabbet where the half blind pins would be cut. It won't be possible to saw the pins, but you can chisel them out. A bit of work, but it will look nice!

Dennis


I’m getting ready to start building draw boxes next week for a lingerie chest for the wife. I plan on using full extension under mount draw slides. I’m thinking of using the Blum 563H. The cabinet will be 19 ½ deep X 17” wide.

Is this a good choice? Any other choices?

Second question, can I use half blind dovetails? If not, I will use domino's.

Lastly, best place to purchase them.

First time building a dresser.

Thanks,

Mike

[Dennis Yamamoto]

Another thought: it's approximately 5/16". Given your drawer box opening and drawer side thickness, use Blum's instructions to calculate the drawer box width which will give you the side recess. If you are not sure of something, Blum's technical customer service is excellent.

Dennis


I believe that Blum tandem 563H's require about a 5/16" side recess. So, if you want to do half blind dovetails in front for an inset drawer, you will have to account for this. I did this by using about a 7/8" thick drawer front and cut about a 5/16" by 1/2" rabbet where the half blind pins would be cut. It won't be possible to saw the pins, but you can chisel them out. A bit of work, but it will look nice!

Dennis

[Tom M King]

Since this sounds like your first go with this type of slide, get the slides in hand and make a test drawer before cutting anything for the final ones. Get a test drawer working perfectly first, and then get into the finished product.

[Bob Jones 5443]

Since this sounds like your first go with this type of slide, get the slides in hand and make a test drawer before cutting anything for the final ones. Get a test drawer working perfectly first, and then get into the finished product.

Absolutely. I’m about to wade into this world for the first time. Test drawers for sure.

[Larry Edgerton]

I have used thousands of 563's. Never had a call back. I am tempted by cheaper slides, but then I remember that I hate callbacks and stick with what has served me well.

[Tom M King]

Whenever it was that I used my first ones, I didn't know the drawers (draws???) needed the holes in the back. I ended up making a jig to drill them by, and still use the same jig decades later, but if I had known to start with, I would have bought their jig.

[Bob Jones 5443]

It does seem likely that I’ll want to buy jigs for the drawer slides and cup hinges. All for two doors and four drawers! But I suppose once I get my toes in the water, I might be ready to make more cabinets for people, or even for under my workbench or moveable table saw. It’s a good skill to have. It’s probably high time I took this on.

Slouching toward my first one. My materials list is nearly complete.it looks like my first opportunity to go to MacBeath will be the week after Thanksgiving.

[Larry Edgerton]

Whenever it was that I used my first ones, I didn't know the drawers (draws???) needed the holes in the back. I ended up making a jig to drill them by, and still use the same jig decades later, but if I had known to start with, I would have bought their jig.

Ditto. Made one out of jatoba, still using it today.Its kind of pretty anyway.:D

[Jared Sankovich]

Ditto. Made one out of jatoba, still using it today.Its kind of pretty anyway.:D

I went cheap with some hard maple and pine..lol
510760

[Bob Jones 5443]

Larry and Jared, the shop made jig is intriguing. Can you provide a little explanation of how it works? Or maybe refer me to the Blum-made jig your jigs replace so I can understand how Jared's works?
thanks!

[Jared Sankovich]

Larry and Jared, the shop made jig is intriguing. Can you provide a little explanation of how it works? Or maybe refer me to the Blum-made jig your jigs replace so I can understand how Jared's works?
thanks!

It just locates the hole next to the notch.
510807510808

[Bob Jones 5443]

Thanks! I’ll have a look at the Blum jig and it’s instructions to figure all this out. Appreciate the tip.

[Bob Jones 5443]

Oh my. I just found the illustrated instructions. I guess I’ll cast my hopes to YouTube.

We older dilettantes who never did an apprenticeship have to learn the hard way. OK. Bring it on

[Nick Lazz]

You don’t need a jig. Just build your drawer to the specifications in the Blum installation manual. Cut out the notch..set your drawer on the installed slides all the way and the tab will make a mark where you need to drill your hole.

[Aaron Liebling]

Agreed. For a one (or few) off product, easy enough to do by hand. The instructions explain exactly the dimensions needed. This is what I did for the cabinet I built.

[Bob Jones 5443]

Sounds encouraging. Thanks.

[andrew whicker]

I haven't had a huge run of drawers yet, but I just poke the slide into the box after making the dado cuts and use the mark from the slide as my center point. And then drill the requisite 1/4" / 6mm hole.