First Blades for 14" Laguna 14BX

[Daniel Alcini]

After 5 years of research and tire kicking, I finally made my first "big" tool purchase and picked up a Laguna 14BX (110v) during the 10% off sale. Of course I spent way more than originally budgeted. (Who really needs food and heat anyway?).

This is my first (and last?) band saw and there are a lot of things I'm anxious to try, but I'll likely start with some jigs (which really excite the nerd in me) and eventually move up to laminated curve cutting boards in the near term.

I've read lots of great threads about bandsaw blades here - including Van's excellent 101 (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?149862-Lets-talk-bandsaw-blades!&p=1532560#post1532560) back in 2010 and another good discussion (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?253359-Best-resaw-blade&p=2674396#post2674396) in 2017 on recommendations for the the Rikon 10-326. I based my first two blade purchases on that thread since the 10-326 carries similar specs to the 14BX and ordered two proper length Lenox blades from BandSawBladesDirect last night:


Diemaster 2 Bi-Metal 1/2" x .025" 4TPI
Lenox Flex Back Carbon 1/4" x .025" 6TPI

I was tempted by the Laguna Resaw King - but thought it best to learn the ropes on a more economical bi-metal and see if my level of use warrants moving up to the 3/4" carbide RK one day.

I've seen people caution that some saws can struggle to tension the maximum width blade claimed by the manufacturer's specs, and I was curious if there are any 3/4" blades that I should be wary of for the 14BX?

I'm also interested to hear any blade recommendations specific to this saw vs. those discussed for the Rikon 10-326.

Any other blades I may want to consider?

Very appreciative of all of your input!

[Christopher Charles]

congrats on the new saw and the pain will fade. I use the 1/2 die master on my 18” for everything but making veneer. I bought a 1/4” blade when I bought the saw 15 years ago and have used it once. It depends on what you plan to make of course, but I’d recommend saving for the carbide 3/4 “ over a thin blade.

[Mel Fulks]

congrats on the new saw and the pain will fade. I use the 1/2 die master on my 18” for everything but making veneer. I bought a 1/4” blade when I bought the saw 15 years ago and have used it once. It depends on what you plan to make of course, but I’d recommend saving for the carbide 3/4 “ over a thin blade.

Yes ,the narrow bands are for puzzles and coasters . Resist the idea of making wooden jewelry coated with Glitter as
Christmas presents for your wife.

[James Jayko]

I have found that to be true...the maximum width seems to be about 1/4" more than advisable.

I have a 14/12 that is in storage, and we have a 14BX at a community shop that I go to. For my own saw, I think that the 1/2" Resaw King is worth every penny. But in the community shop, I just buy a new 1/2" 3 TPI blade from Woodcraft (Timberwolf or something?) when I'm going to be resawing. People do a lot of dumb things in a public shop so that Resaw King would get trashed, but at home when you're the only one using it and you have a good idea what you're doing, I'd probably go with either the better blade, or buy the dollar equivalent (probably ~6) cheaper blades. They definitely don't last forever, so if you're about to do something that matters, I generally try to use a new blade.

Also, FWIW, I was told that a 1/2" 3 TPI blade was all you needed for resawing (even veneers), so that's what I've always used. Has always worked great as long as I take the time to make sure everything is setup properly. I think people often skip taking the 15 minutes to make sure your saw is properly setup before you start cutting, which is never going to go well.

Either way, you're going to like that 14BX. The one we have is pretty great.

[Jim Becker]

I actually intend to buy some of the Dimasters when I next buy bands for my MM16.

[Erik Loza]

I would buy one of each. Two different blades with different applications.

Erik

[John TenEyck]

Those blades were very good choices. Unless you plan to do a lot of thick resawing or slicing veneer from exotic wood, you may never need different blades.

John

[Michael Burnside]

I have the same machine. It's great. About 90% of the time it holds a 3/4" Laguna Resaw King which is always delightful to use. I also have a 3/8" and 1/4" Laguna set but I've rarely used them, but on occasion they do come in handy for larger pieces. Generally for delicate work, I use my benchtop 1036 Ricon.

[Jack Frederick]

I have the same saw as well and like it a great deal. I haven’t been able to pull the trigger on the Resaw King. I have had excellent results with the Highland Hardware 1/2” Woodmiser blade for resaw on my saw and have had good life out of them. Otherwise I have 1/4”, 3/8 and 1/2 blades from Rockler. Pay close attention to tightening the thumb screws on your guides. I’ve had difficulty with them and as suggested here replaced them with a Allen socket head screws.

[George Yetka]

Get the Resaw king when you can for all your straight work. Dont get too big for your machine though. I believe 3/4 is your max(not positive)
The 1/2 and 1/4" blades I would get Bimetal. Carbon is nice but if you are twisting/putting tension on the blade you risk it snapping and better its $30 than $100

[Daniel Alcini]

Thanks a bunch everyone - I'll have some fun with these two blades for now and see where things go from here. I received a ship notice today and am very excited. Now I just need to make room in my tiny shop.

Jack - thanks for the tip about the thumb screws on the guides. I'll look around for that discussion.

[John Kananis]

Good choices. If you go with the laguna blades, the resaw king is pretty awesome but stay away from the pro force line that laguna sells. They dull way too quick, mediocre at best.

[Jim Reffner]

Save your receipts if purchasing a Laguna blade.... lifetime warranty on the weld.

[Rich Konopka]

Congratulations on the 14bx!! I just picked up my new 18bx today and I got a 1” resaw blade. I plan on a 1/2” blade as well.

[Steve Demuth]

If you're going to be doing resawing, then I would get a couple of the 1/2" Highland Woodworking Woodslicer blades for that purpose. They are almost the only blade I use on my 14" saw, and they are very good - a properly adjusted 14" saw with a properly tensioned, sharp Woodslicer can easily resaw to 8" or more with these blades. They do not stay sharp as long as the carbide blades, of course, but the also cost about 1/4 as much.

On a 14" saw, I would not go with any blades over 1/2". You just can't tension a 3/4" blade adequately in them, in my experience.

You always want to have a 1/4" or even thinner blade on hand, so you can do a little cutout work when the mood hits you. 1/4" blades are also excellent for making small boxes in irregular shapes, if that sort of thing appeals to you (I know - bandsaw boxes are overdone, tourist craft shop gewgaws to many, but for a woodworker wanting to do small projects, they can be a very fulfilling way to make good use of otherwise useless, but beautiful, found or scrap wood.)

[John Kananis]

On a 14" saw, I would not go with any blades over 1/2". You just can't tension a 3/4" blade adequately in them, in my experience.


Steve, completely agree if we're talking cast iron but the 14bx is a steel frame saw. I have a 3/4 in mine right now.

[George Yetka]

Steve, completely agree if we're talking cast iron but the 14bx is a steel frame saw. I have a 3/4 in mine right now.

I think this depends on the saw. Some 14" saws are more equivalent to bench top units others seam more stout. I have the 14suv and it does a pretty good job with the 3/4 it claims it can do 1" but I thought that may push it.

[Michael Burnside]

Steve, completely agree if we're talking cast iron but the 14bx is a steel frame saw. I have a 3/4 in mine right now.

Same. Zero issues, I use my 3/4" more than any other blade.