I need some help with screws

[Rich Engelhardt]

I want some 1 1/4" screws to use in the shop for putting together 3/4" projects.
I go to McFeely's and try to figure out exactly what I need to buy and - I'm not too proud to admit - I get the crap confused out of me.
Question number one - do I want or need #6 or #8?
(Question number one and one half - related to that - what size drill bit do I use for each for a pilot hole?)
So - here's my choices (for #8):

A.) Spax - star drive https://www.mcfeelys.com/8-x-1-1-4-spax-multi-material-ext-deck-screws-flat-head-hcr-x-coated-t-star-plus-drive-qty-1150-1-bit.html

B.) Promaster - sort of an interior "Spax-wannabe-all things to all people - wannabe" - deep sharp saw tooth threads (like Spax) combo square/Phillips drive and it has nibs. Interesting & the price is right - but - only if they work better than the good old zinc plated borg screws. https://www.mcfeelys.com/8-x-1-1-4-in-mcfeely-s-promaster-plus-wood-screws-unplated-steel-flat-head-combo-drive-qty-1000.html

C.) Zinc plated - https://www.mcfeelys.com/8-x-1-1-4-in-wood-screws-clear-zinc-plated-flat-head-square-drive-qty-1000.html

D.) Nothing fancy - plain square drive uncoated https://www.mcfeelys.com/8-x-1-1-4-in-wood-screws-unplated-steel-flat-head-square-drive-qty-1000.html

Notice - all of the above are for a quantity of 1000. I'd rather just lay in a supply of something & the price isn't something that concerns me that much - depending on the answer to my question about #6 or #8 - I might just get both sizes.

Thanks in advance for this. This is something I've been putting off for years asking.

[Thomas McCurnin]

No. 8's will have a bigger head, be easier to drive with a screw driver or driver drill and won't bung up as much. No. 6's are a bit dainty, might look nicer (smaller head), but you'll have to be be careful to drill a proper size pilot hole. I drill two sizes on the boards, the top board where the screw head is, I drill bigger, because I don't need the threads to engage or hold that board, the bottom board is a little smaller so the threads cut and engage. I generally get phillips head. I probably use No. 8's more than No. 6's. Usually Zinc plated, but I use brass for appearance in some cases. Brass is even more dainty and usually has to be lubricated with wax or spit.

For a No. 6, I use I 1/8" pilot hole drill bit, but it honestly depends on the hardness of the wood, for soft pine or fir, 1/8" works OK and the countersink size is 5/16.

For No. 8. I use a 9/64" pilot hole for soft pine, and a countersink size of 5/16 as well

Here is a chart, but honestly, I just use a piece of scrap from the dumpster to test my pilot hole, countersink hole and shank size holes. It doesn't have the shank size holes. https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/wood-screws/Wood-Screw-Pilot-Hole-Size.aspx

That said, I'm a big fan of Spax for construction projects with use by an impact driver--no pilot hole required, it just cuts like a hot knife through butter, but I like the look of a traditional brass or nickle plated phillips screw. I get them at Home Depot or Lowes. I don't think you'll find No. 6's in Spax, they are more commonly found in 10's, 12's and 14's. I may have some Spax No. 8's but I''m not sure. I get them in in all sorts of lengths for 3/4 stock and 2x4's as well.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

My choice for that application is the original construction screw. #6 X 1 1/4 black phosphate drywall screws, Phillips head, fine thread. I Pre drill with a twist bit countersink combination. I think the one for #6 is 7/64

[Lee Schierer]

I got tired of the low quality of conventional cad plated wood screws. I've switched to #8 x 1-1/4 Spax screws for 3/4" material and #8 x 1-1/2 for thicker stock. These screws have a torx drive and hold securely. I purchase the Spax screws locally from the big box stores. The 1-1/4" screws come in a box of 195 for $11.34 before tax.

I won't and don't use drywall screws which are too brittle and rust easily.

[Bill Howatt]

I tend to use "regular" screws, both #6 and #8, these are all Robertson or square-drive. If I ever get a slotted screw for any reason it immediately goes into the scrap metal box. I have used Phillips dry-wall for some things such as a quick jig but they are brittle although have never caused me any trouble for what I've done with them.
I believe where I have had most trouble with screws (at last the ones I use) is not drilling some kind of a pilot hole first although the type of material and location of the hole are factors. Too close to an end or edge is looking for splitting trouble.

[Phillip Mitchell]

option A or close to it is what I’d use and stock for shop and similar grade projects. Torx head is important if using an impact driver…or even not. I can’t believe there are people out there that still prefer Philips or square drive (for utility projects) now that Torx is so common. I’ve used them all Torx wins hands down. Traditional slotted is a different subject and would only be used for aesthetics or to match existing / traditional but not for shop or utility projects, imo.

[Stan Calow]

For many years, my go-to-screw for home repairs and projects (not woodworking) has been the Simpsons Strong-Tie #8 1 1/4" self-tapping. Home depot and other places. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-8-x-1-1-4-in-2-Phillips-Wafer-Head-Wood-Screw-100-Pack-SD8X1-25-R/206101783

[Mark e Kessler]

I stay away from fine thread and drywall screws, I use Spax and for the most part #8,, #6 comes in handy for thinner parts like 1/2". When Spax switched to the Torx head I didn't like it so much, rarely would stay on the magnetic driver so you had to hold the screw. I now use the Wera Rapidaptor Bit Holder and it has a very strong magnet and it releases and engages the bit really well. Also do yourself a favor and spend the money on the Amana Carbide drill/countersink (with straight drill bit) waaaay better than anything else and they last forever, I still am using ones from when I had my business from 30yrs ago.

For furniture I only use raw slotted wood screws (insert raised eyebrow emoji here...lol), if they are from the box store with Zinc I just soak them in vinegar for a couple of days. For wood screws you want a tapered drill for the countersink but I hardy if ever use a tapered drill...

I haven't looked lately but when I did a cost comparison it wasn't any cheaper to buy the spax in any meaningful way in 1k than it was by the box but that may have changed

[Kevin Jenness]

I like square drives for the same reason the old man eats his peas with honey- they don't fall off the driver tip. #8 unplated auger point or sawtooth thread for 90% of my work. 3/8" Fuller countersink/ clearance bit and a separate pilot, size depends on the material hardness and actual screw dimensions, usually 11/64" clearance and 7/64" or 1/8" pilot. Driving into face grain ply or softer material with the self-drilling screws may not need a pilot, and fastening material whose thickness is less than the unthreaded shank may not require a separate clearance hole. Nibs on the underside of the head can help flush the screw w/o a countersink but can drill to China when driven repeatedly in a jig so I try to stay away from them and rarely drive a flathead screw w/o a countersunk hole.

I don't use tapered pilots because screws aren't tapered except at the tip, plus they burn when drilling for lack of clearance.. For a proper fit separate, straight clearance and pilot drills work best for me. I won't touch slotted bits unless required for historical purposes.

One place where slotted screws are superior is when they have to be removed after being covered with glue or paint, as in re-planking a boat. The slots can be easily cleaned out with a sharpened driver. It can be done painfully with square drives, but I wouldn't want to try it with Torx.

[Dan Friedrichs]

IMO, Spax are garbage - never snapped so many heads off than the one time I tried a box of those. I have no idea why people like them.

I'm surprised no mentions of GRK R4's: https://www.amazon.com/GRK-ProPak-Multipurpose-Screws-300-Count/dp/B001SFGRL2
Smaller pack: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GRK-Fasteners-8-x-1-1-4-in-Star-Drive-Bugle-Head-R4-Multi-Purpose-Screw-110-Per-Pack-96080/204837653

I use these for nearly everything. They are lightyears better than anything else.

[Phillip Mitchell]

I like GRK screws also, Dan.

[Jerry Bruette]

Take a ride to your local Menards store and you can choose from Grip-Tite, Spax and GRK. I personally get the GRK everytime.

[Mark e Kessler]

IMO, Spax are garbage - never snapped so many heads off than the one time I tri.

Interesting, i have been using spax for years and can’t remember ever snapping any heads off, i just recently disassembled something that sat outside in the elements for years and none of them snapped off. I do like GRK and now use those mostly for anything outdoors and will probably switch to them fully when the spax are gone

[Jim Becker]

I use McFeeley's #8 1.25", 1.5" and 2" square drive screws in black oxide for general assembly work. I originally was buying the zinc, but gradually gravitated to the black oxide because they look better to me for certain applications where they remain visible. I also buy in the 1000 count. For the record, I also "stock" .75" and 1" in the same finish and they also get a lot of use.

[scott lipscomb]

+1 for GRK screws. Usually sold in the non-big-box local building supply stores. At least in my part of the world.

[Cameron Wood]

-1 for GRK screws. They are good and all, but expensive, too shiny, and there are way too many types, sizes, and driver sizes.

One is forced to have on hand T10, T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, even occasionally T40 tips, and you often can't tell the difference between two adjacent sizes.

[Phil Gaudio]

I have been using nothing but Spax for many years: I have had very good results with these.

[Jim Becker]

I certainly like GRK (and SPAX) for construction work, including structural needs, which is what they are generally designed for, but I don't consider them cost effective for use in woodworking projects unless there is a structural need for that level of fastener.

[Thomas McCurnin]

I forgot to attach the chart for pilot holes

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/wood-screws/Wood-Screw-Pilot-Hole-Size.aspx

[Rich Konopka]

I use the GRK's but for plywood cabinet projects the FastCap Powerhead screws cannot be beat. https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/hardware?brand%5B%5D=FastCap

[Dan Friedrichs]

-1 for GRK screws. They are good and all, but expensive, too shiny, and there are way too many types, sizes, and driver sizes.

One is forced to have on hand T10, T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, even occasionally T40 tips, and you often can't tell the difference between two adjacent sizes.

Certainly the large structural ones are pricey. But the #8's I linked above are $0.04/ea, and when I disassemble a jig or whatever, I usually save and reuse the screws because they're still like-new.

[Jared Sankovich]

I use McFeeley's #8 1.25", 1.5" and 2" square drive screws in black oxide for general assembly work. I originally was buying the zinc, but gradually gravitated to the black oxide because they look better to me for certain applications where they remain visible. I also buy in the 1000 count. For the record, I also "stock" .75" and 1" in the same finish and they also get a lot of use.

I keep a similar stock of #8s but also keep 1.25" #6s

[andrew whicker]

I've started going square drive on everything. I like them better than torx drive.

[Ron Selzer]

I've started going square drive on everything. I like them better than torx drive.

I agree with andrew
Ron

[Brian Tymchak]

I forgot to attach the chart for pilot holes

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/wood-screws/Wood-Screw-Pilot-Hole-Size.aspx

Nice reference! Thanks for posting the link Tom.

[Jim Becker]

I keep a similar stock of #8s but also keep 1.25" #6s
Oh, I have an assortment of #6 regular size head as well as #7 trim head screws that get frequent use, too. I just don't buy them in the quantities that I do for the #8s. I kinda have a bunch of #10, too, because back in the early 2000's I mistakenly thought that was the right size for most things and bought "a lot". They get use when appropriate, but I suspect that the supply will very much outlive me. :)

[Ray Selinger]

I use the original Robertson screws on cabinets, but for most projects, construction grade yellow zinc # 8 square head. They don't look too bad, almost like brass. I buy them in 500 piece jars or 1# boxes depending on lumber yard I'm at. The odd time if I'm using them for construction, I like the 3" #8 or the 3 1/2 #10 in kegs. They use plastic buckets, now. I'm old, only as a very young kid did I see real nail kegs. The 1/4" cordless impact driver is a game changer here. I've found the bits last almost forever, unlike if you are using a drill motor. There, you buy them by the handful. Spin a bit , and you toss it.

[Rush Paul]

I'm surprised no mentions of GRK R4's: https://www.amazon.com/GRK-ProPak-Multipurpose-Screws-300-Count/dp/B001SFGRL2
Smaller pack: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GRK-Fasteners-8-x-1-1-4-in-Star-Drive-Bugle-Head-R4-Multi-Purpose-Screw-110-Per-Pack-96080/204837653

I use these for nearly everything. They are lightyears better than anything else.

I also use GRK R4 screws for all my projects, particularly plywood panel projects. The #8 GRK R4 screws are perfect in 1/2" and 3/4" plywood. I'll also use the #8 GRK Cabinet screws in many locations where having a broad surface face makes sense. These screws have great tensile strength, they are tough, the heads don't strip out, and they rarely split the plywood when driven into the edges (as in a dado joint). FWIW, for plywood edge penetration, as in a dado, I will regularly drill a pilot hole even though that may not be absolutely necessary.

I tried Spax, and I tried to like them, but they just don't compare to GRK in the same sizes.

For constructing with 2x boards, I will occasionally move to the #9 or #10 GRK screws where the application seems to warrant the greater strength.

[Gary Petersen]

I like WoodPro by A&C Eagle and buy them mostly direct or from Amazon. The AP8X114 #8 x 1-1/4" is a go-to wood screw for me. I've never had one break. They have nibs on the underside of the countersink head that help retain the screw in the hole. The top portion of the screw is threadless to help draw the second board tight against the first. And they have a star drive which has eliminated stripping of the head in my use.

http://bandceagle.com/fasteners.php?type=packaged_screws

[George Yetka]

I use grk r4's for 1-1/4 and up
but I use these screws in the sizes under 1-1/4"
https://www.mcfeelys.com/8-x-1-1-4-flat-head-wood-screws-black-square-drive-qty-100.html

[Bryan Cramer]

Everyone else summed it up good, but I will add I like their non plated screws for interior work that will never be exposed to any exterior environmental conditions. My opinion is they are what you’re looking for and is exactly what I use for similar applications. I think the price is cheaper too. Construction applications require different types.

[Jim Becker]

I agree that non-plated is just fine for project fasteners that are essentially hidden inside of the projects. The thing is, it's likely a very large percentage of us use our shop fasteners for a lot more things than our shop projects. So I do the black oxide (my choice but any of them are great) so one supply covers all my uses.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I have added Grip Rite outdoor screws to my assortment recently. They are beefier than #6 and are OK when a little corrosion protection is needed. For outdoors I use stainless steel. I need to make another batch of quick and easy boxes.
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