Any good plans, or pre-made tall resaw auxillary fences for Felder Bandsaws

[Alan Lightstone]

I've run into this a couple of times in the past week. Been resawing a lot of wood, and the height of the stock Felder fence on the FB710 bandsaw is woefully short for this.

There isn't a slot/T-slot on the face side of the fence, so the easiest solution isn't possible.

Anyone have a design they built for resawing that they like? Or commercially made models that are tall enough for good height resawing (most seem too low).

[Tom Trees]

ACM make a very tall one, would that fit? :D
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Been meaning to make a tall fence sometime when needed, something what stops not much past the blade,
so will need be on a track like 80x20 aluminium extrusion (but much taller) if of a decent length.

Then the question of that being a good thing is still valid.

Not much wrong with a short fence if you put the time into making a proper featherboard, say something like John TenEyck's one,
or perhaps something like Steven Woodward's novel idea of using adjustable sprung tension gate hinges.
https://youtu.be/S3L-7cU1kAo?si=OEzCMv6r47EJhuY2&t=204

[Alan Lightstone]

ACM make a very tall one, would that fit? :D
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Been meaning to make a tall fence sometime when needed, something what stops not much past the blade,
so will need be on a track like 80x20 aluminium extrusion (but much taller) if of a decent length.

Then the question of that being a good thing is still valid.

Not much wrong with a short fence if you put the time into making a proper featherboard, say something like John TenEyck's one,
or perhaps something like Steven Woodward's novel idea of using adjustable sprung tension gate hinges.
https://youtu.be/S3L-7cU1kAo?si=OEzCMv6r47EJhuY2&t=204
I built and use that same featherboard that John TenEyck and I (and hopefully many others) built from John Lanciani's design. It is very useful, though a little awkward. I built mine with Magswitch magnets to hold it to the table instead of clamps, which I think makes it a little easier. But I still find that there can be a gap towards the top of wood that isn't supported by a tall fence. I think the combination would work far better. So still looking to built / buy a taller resaw fence.

That ACM one is crazy high for me. Might fit, but blade would be unsupported by guides for a far larger distance than would be optimal.

Steven Woodwards one is interesting, but having already built John Lanciani's, I think I'm good there.

That fence that John TenEyck build is interesting. I thought of something similar but think his design is easier.

[Greg Quenneville]

I just drilled and tapped my cast iron fence for two 6mm bolts. Then a piece of mdf bolted on. Counterbore the mdf so you can use socket head cap screws. Either wax it or apply formica.

My bandsaw is almost exclusively used for resawing so it’s still a work in progress finding a pressure element that works. I might try the gate hinge idea.

[John TenEyck]

I'm glad you found the resaw featherboard useful, Alan. I like your idea of using the Magswitch magnets instead of clamps. Here's a link to my web page, that shows both the featherboard and the tall fence, in case anyone might be interested. https://sites.google.com/view/jteneyck-woodworker/current-projects/tall-bandsaw-feather-board?authuser=1

Both units can be adapted to whatever height best fits a particular saw or need. I'm sure there are other improvements that could be made, as well, but the two have worked so well for my needs that I haven't felt the need to do so.

John

[Wes Grass]

I think my fence already had a couple holes in it, right near the angled face. Kinda remember a couple nuts with a cone machined at one end. I opened them up and c'bored for the inserts. Might be threaded in ??? I tend to go overboard that way ...

A couple spacers would do as well, just more little bits to keep track of.

Bracket with the caster is not a great way to go, have to either move the fence for each cut or adjust the wheel. I'll add a 'plus' for the gate hinges, much better idea.

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[Derek Cohen]

I've run into this a couple of times in the past week. Been resawing a lot of wood, and the height of the stock Felder fence on the FB710 bandsaw is woefully short for this.

There isn't a slot/T-slot on the face side of the fence, so the easiest solution isn't possible.

Anyone have a design they built for resawing that they like? Or commercially made models that are tall enough for good height resawing (most seem too low).

Hi Alan

I designed a re-saw fence for my Hammer N4400, which likely has the same fence as your Felder.

There is no need for bolts or slots, and it is held together with a pressure fit. Made of waxed MDF (which is flat) and hardwood ....

https://i.postimg.cc/1yWRSNjJ/4a.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

The design uses a shortened fence after the blade. The cut-away is just to enable the guides to drop down, and the fence extends about 1-2" beyond the blade ...

https://i.postimg.cc/rcwgcX6c/IMG_2801.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

The reason for this is that any movement in boards stays away from the fence. If boards open up, one side pushed against the fence, and the cut is skewed and rough.

More details here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ResawingOnTheBandsaw.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Wes Grass]

Almost always ... I wish I was as smart as Derek.

But I'm mainly a 'metal' guy, so that's where I wander off to first.

[Alan Lightstone]

Hi Alan

I designed a re-saw fence for my Hammer N4400, which likely has the same fence as your Felder.

There is no need for bolts or slots, and it is held together with a pressure fit. Made of waxed MDF (which is flat) and hardwood ....

https://i.postimg.cc/1yWRSNjJ/4a.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

The design uses a shortened fence after the blade. The cut-away is just to enable the guides to drop down, and the fence extends about 1-2" beyond the blade ...

https://i.postimg.cc/rcwgcX6c/IMG_2801.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

The reason for this is that any movement in boards stays away from the fence. If boards open up, one side pushed against the fence, and the cut is skewed and rough.

More details here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ResawingOnTheBandsaw.html

Regards from Perth

Derek
Oooh, I really like that Derek. Looks like it will solve the problem. Really didn't want to deal with drilling into the fence. Those four or five bolts/screws through the MDF are enough to keep it perfectly vertical?

Reading your Wixey DRO for the bandsaw was going to be one of my next questions. I'm thinking I should just move to Perth and study how you do everything. I would learn A TON. :D

[John TenEyck]

Derek's solution is really good IF your fence locks down securely and resists rotating left at the top when load is applied from the featherboard. I found my factory tall fence to be inadequate in that regard, hence the reason for building the new one which has a wide base to prevent that problem. Just something to be aware of.

John

[Derek Cohen]

Those four or five bolts/screws through the MDF are enough to keep it perfectly vertical?

Alan, when I first made this fence I added a set screw to prevent it moving. However, over the years I found that the slip fit was enough, and the set screw was redundant.

As regards accuracy, that is always in the making. The extrusion is flat and square, and the "tongue-and-groove" section is also square. It all works together well.

And, yes, it is very worthwhile adding the Wixey. This makes it possible to dial in a re-saw thickness, and later return to it.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Alan Lightstone]

Derek:

What did you use for that circular stop block that goes on the rod? I can't think of a name of that piece or a source for it.

Also, did you add a micro-adjuster to it, and if so what did you use? I have one for my table saw, but it's been discontinued and wouldn't work on a rod in any case.

I ordered the Wixey. Building this will be my next project after I finish some actual woodworking I'm working on now.

[Derek Cohen]

Alan, I take it that you are referring to this ..

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/WixeyDROForHammerBandsaw_html_1ce22537.jpg

That is a stop block which lines up with the blade ...

https://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/WixeyDROForHammerBandsaw_html_d7cd0c6.jpg

It allows the fence to be set to 0mm. In turn, this sets up the Wixey.

When you replace the main fence with the re-saw fence, simply re-site the stop block, slide the fence against the stop block, and re-calibrate zero.

I think I purchased the stop block on Banggood.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Wes Grass]

Search for 'shaft collar'.

[Alan Lightstone]

So I just build what I think is a cross between Derek Cohen's design and I think John TenEyck's. I can't find the original link for the picture of the original design of the fence. If it's yours, John, could you provide the link so I can store the bookmark.

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I wound up using 5 bolts as for whatever reason, I couldn't get it dead flat with 3 bolts. Right now it measures 0.00 degrees, so at least bang on by measurement. I'll have to make some veneer in the near future and test out the variation in thickness and accuracy when in use.

Next step is on to a DRO for the bandsaw. And somehow a micro-adjuster for it. Two pet peeves of mine.

On my Felder FB710, there is a rectangular rod that the fence rides on, not a round one like Derek's. You can see that in the last photo. It's for mounting their table extension (which I do own, but usually use on the planer, so I'd rather not replace that with a round rod. So I'll have to come up with a new approach.

I haven't taken the Wixey table saw DRO out of its package yet. That's next, and work on installing it. Hopefully not too difficult and without drilling.

[John TenEyck]

Yes, that looks a lot like my stepped fence. Here's the link: https://sites.google.com/view/jteneyck-woodworker/current-projects/tall-bandsaw-feather-board You can see all the details if you open the attached SketchUp file.

How tall did you make yours? It doesn't look all that tall to me, but maybe you don't need to slice very wide veneer. It would be easy to add another fence to the front of what you have, though, if you do.

John

John

[Alan Lightstone]

It’s actually 12” tall

[John TenEyck]

It’s actually 12” tall

Wow, I guess I didn't realize how large that saw is. 12" should do it. I've cut veneer 14" wide on mine w/o issue. Of course, the height doesn't matter much when the stock is still thick, but for the last slice it can be if it has any bow in it.

Happy resawing/veneer slicing.

John

[Alan Lightstone]

To slightly hijack my own thread, I asked this question and then accidentally deleted the post.

How to you get posted pictures to show up large like the ones Derek posted above, as opposed to the ones that end up smaller like the ones I posted and have to click on to enlarge?

[mike stenson]

To slightly hijack my own thread, I asked this question and then accidentally deleted the post.

How to you get posted pictures to show up large like the ones Derek posted above, as opposed to the ones that end up smaller like the ones I posted and have to click on to enlarge?

Host them elsewhere, instead of attaching them here.

[Alan Lightstone]

So the next step was following in Derek's footsteps to attach a DRO to the bandsaw. After a few trial and error attempts, I've got that up and running. I used the Wixey table saw DRO. It attached very easily with 3 L-brackets and using the pre-existing bolts on the bandsaw:

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For the last part, I have been working on a micro-adjuster. This has been the most difficult part of the whole deal. If General International still produced the one I have on my SawStop, this would have been a piece of cake. I'm kludging one together, modified from a plan online (Woodsmith magazine.) Mostly done with that, but the Felder fence with it's irregular shape and rectangular rails (which are great for putting on an extension, but otherwise just not commonly used) have made this difficult. But thankfully, there are a lot of rare-earth magnets in the world.

I need to come up with something to work as a zero stop block for the DRO. Derek's idea of that collar won't work on my saw due to the rectangular rod.

[Derek Cohen]

....
For the last part, I have been working on a micro-adjuster. This has been the most difficult part of the whole deal. .....


Would this help? It is the micro-adjuster I built for the crosscut fence on the Hammer K3 slider ...

https://i.postimg.cc/j25jyBHL/1.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Keith Outten]

Host them elsewhere, instead of attaching them here.

If you link to pictures at other web sites in time they will be gone and we will have dead links in out archives.

[Alan Lightstone]

So, progress after many missteps. I have a first version of a micro-adjuster installed and working on the bandsaw.
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It attaches to the table top with two magnets, and has a threaded insert in a wood knob that connects to a threaded rod that is glued to the piece that was custom made to fit the odd shape on the back of the bandsaw fence.

Here's the whole shooting match installed:
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And here's a picture with the spring-loaded featherboard on the table:
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Lots of stuff, and more than a few magnets, but all is removable, and I was able to quickly make a test cut and be accurate from top to bottom within 0.002 inches, and within 0.001 inch in set width.

I still don't have a stopblock for the fence/DRO and I've been going crazy looking for a pre-made steel or plastic knob with a threaded insert with 5/16" thread, 3/4" total thickness, and 1-1/4" knob diameter. The wood knob I made, despite my best efforts is a little off center. Sigh... Boy I hate threaded inserts.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Alan

Two ideas for a stop block on a square bar:

1. Form a through groove in a block (of UHMW or whatever), and insert a bolt through it and tapped into the fence bar. The stop slides on the groove, and can be tightened down.

2. If you do not wish to drill into the bar, create a sandwich, with bolts on each side of the bar.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Alan Lightstone]

I thought of a quick and dirty solution for now. I put a T-bolt on the Wixey track, and after zeroing the blade on the fence, I tightened it down. When I have the fence move towards the blade, it encounters that bolt and stops. I can zero it there.

Now if my bandsaw blades are different thickness, this will be a chore. I haven't measured them, but I really don't change blades too often.

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