Cord AWG size for big routers

[Bill Dufour]

I need to replace the cords on two big PC routers. 120 volts about 15 amps. I see awg from #16 -12 sold. Seems like #14 should be minimum. But I suppose #16 would survive in hand held intermittent use.
Bill D

[Robert M Richardson]

#14 SO Cable is rated for 15 amps so it seems that would be the right choice. On the other hand how often are the routers going to pull full load and for how long? In any case I'd be looking for a heavy duty cord that will hold up.
Robert

[Josh Molaver]

14 ga minimum, 12 is overkill (but what I would use…).

You probably want SJOOW cordage for this.

[Tom M King]

Don't try to improve on the size that was in there to start with. There is no extra room in the handle where it routes to the switch for larger wires. If the strain relief part is not separate from the cord, I'd get one that fits properly. There are a bunch of different types of strain relievers, and only the proper one will fit right. Check on Amazon for replacement cords. I just bought one not long ago for an old Milwaukee 15 amp side grinder off Amazon, and it fit perfectly.

There are aftermarket companies that sell them with all the wires already the correct length with the correct crimped on ends on the cords.

[Edward Weber]

I would also get the OEM replacement or equvilant aftermarket. I've done it several times when rehabbing tools. Going heavier won't get you anywhere.

[Bill Howatt]

I agree with the above for getting a "proper" replacement since fitting inside the tool with good strain relief is paramount. Going heavier can be a mistake if it needs force fitting and can cause undue physical strain on components besides who needs a cord that weights more and stores less well than a lighter one. Oversize is good for a long extension cord but does nothing for a 6' tool cord.

[Thomas McCurnin]

While the factory spec might be 16ga., it is such a short length that there would be no current loss or overheating. Use the factory spec cord.

[Warren Lake]

have those routers and cables on them is, at least on the easiest one to read.

CAROL 14/2 90C (UL) WATER RESISTANT SJOW CSA (-40 C ) FT-s F-7K-123033 MSHA MADE in the USA 300V

[Bill Dufour]

I was finally able to read the cord on one, it is #14. So I will go with that.
It confused me since it said 14/2 but it is a grounded cord. I thought cord counted every wire while cable ignored the ground wire.
Bill D

[Bill Dufour]

Just found out I can buy the rubber strain relief cord things online for about one dollar each. Much cheaper then buying them molded onto cords.
Bill D.

[Tom M King]

I keep an assortment of those too, having a bunch of oddball old power tools. Some have round keeper ends, and some square. With some of my old tools that still work, I've needed to trim one or the other to fit. At least the hole sizes fit available cords. I like to use some variation of SO cord over SJ. The SO lasts longer for me than the Service Junior ones, and I expect that's why there is a price difference.

If the cord is already made up with the crimped on eyelets, I'll pay extra for those.

[George Yetka]

How long is the cord?

[Wes Grass]

I buy extension cords and cut off whatever end I dont need. Nice molded plugs/recep'. And usually cheaper then buying a length of cord and a clamp-on P/R. Never mind half the work of cutting/stripping.

[Bruce Wrenn]

#14 will be fine, as the OEM cordsets only have 15 amp plugs on them.

[Warren Lake]

SOJ is max 300 volts, SO is 600 volts

[Alex Zeller]

The national electrical code doesn't apply to cords on devices. An engineer that designed it is free to choose what size wire to use and how thick the insulation on the wire should be. It's why you'll find a wire gauge that would be too small by code on something like a router.

[Jim Becker]

Alex, wouldn't UL and similar organizations in other countries have a say on approving the design? It's a bit hard to sell products that don't have those kinds of approvals.

[Edward Weber]

Alex, wouldn't UL and similar organizations in other countries have a say on approving the design? It's a bit hard to sell products that don't have those kinds of approvals.
Exactly my thoughts.
A device, used properly, shouldn't fail due to electrical issues. It would not get UL certified if it did.

[Rod Sheridan]

Where I live, 14AWG flexible cord with 2 current carrying conductors is rated at 18 amperes……Regards, Rod

[Mike Cutler]

We're kind of over thinking this here.
For an extension cord, it's really the length, as well as the awg, that you're looking at.Hopefully the OP already has what he needs.
Under 25', a 16awg extension cord will run that router just fine. Longer than 25' and you would want to consider stepping up to 14awg.
I would be willing to bet that the internal wiring, and provided cords, on the largest routers on the market is probably 16awg internally, and 14awg for the cord, at best.

[Alex Zeller]

UL certification is optional. They also test based on what the company specifies. For example if the company says it's router is designed for 15 minutes of continuous use with 45 minutes of rest that's how they assume it'll be used. UL doesn't try to find the breaking point. They do try to see if a item meets industry standards but that's not easy. For example routers from different manufacturers will have different ratings.

The NEC are written assuming the worst case. Wiring size is based the temperature the wire will while carrying the maximum current going through the wires 100% of the time (ampacity).