Clearance holes & Amana countersink bits

[Ryan Cousins]

The Amana countersink bits have become one of the darlings of the YouTube influencer world. For instance, https://youtu.be/Q4nBVndJscU?si=IfkK-EpNdbgtJw5-. I have purchased a couple and I really like the beefy bearing stop on the top. However, the bit that comes with them seem to be pretty short. And the videos I have seen with them used don't seem to differentiate between drilling a clearance hole in an upper workpiece and a pilot in the lower workpiece, and the bit that comes with these doesn't seem to be long enough to drive pilots in many cases. I have swapped out the bits to longer ones but that still doesn't take care of the clearance hole issue, and in hardwood that can be a necessity. I'm wondering how other people that own these specific bits deal with this? Do you upsize the countersink bit and use that for just the clearance hole and countersink, then go back with a smaller bit for the pilot in the lower workpiece? For instance, the Amana 55241 has a 7/64 bit which is a good size for a pilot in hardwood, but too small for a clearance hole for a #8 woodscrew.

Thanks!

[Thomas McCurnin]

If I am using exposed bright shiny nickle plated screws for projects, I honestly won't care whether it is countersunk level with the surface. Indeed, most of the time, I will want it slightly below the surface, and whether it is dead on or a 16th under, I won't care, because exposed screw projects are generally not fine woodworking. They're usually for shop projects or jigs. Heck, I'll generally use construction screws with an impact driver and just stop the action when I am satisfied with the depth. Construction screws with an impact driver generally do not require pilots either.

[George Yetka]

If I am using exposed bright shiny nickle plated screws for projects, I honestly won't care whether it is countersunk level with the surface. Indeed, most of the time, I will want it slightly below the surface, and whether it is dead on or a 16th under, I won't care, because exposed screw projects are generally not fine woodworking. They're usually for shop projects or jigs. Heck, I'll generally use construction screws with an impact driver and just stop the action when I am satisfied with the depth. Construction screws with an impact driver generally do not require pilots either.

Cabinetry isnt fine woodworking. But it is woodworking and I like these over pocketholes when it will get buried.

The bits are easily swapable but even with the short ones Ive had a half dozen snap in the last 10 years

[Richard Coers]

Once an item becomes the darling of the internet influencers, I assume they all got a set for free and sales go up. For me, I head the other way. Just my opinion of all these young guys trying to make money selling snake oil. Not to mention the numbers of them that barely drill any kind of pilot hole with their high end impact drivers right there.

[Chris Schoenthal]

The Amana 55241 has a straight bit. The 55153 has a tapered bit that I think you are looking for.

[Bill Dufour]

A poloted microstop countersink cage seems better designed to me. Not that easy repeatable 1/1000" accuracy is that needed for wood work. Just make sure the countersink is the correct angle.
Bill D

[Jared Sankovich]

They offer a lot of different models
/configurations of that countersink.

509780
509781

[Derek Meyer]

Thank you for linking that Amana set, Jared. I've looked at the individual Amana countersink bits but never thought to look for a set. I might just get one of those.

Derek

[Cameron Wood]

Those are OK for decks, but for actual woodworking many screws will be close to and edge, driven at an angle, driven into non-flat surface, driven deeper for plugs, etc.,
so that item falls in the DNB category.

Youtube in general has an almost non-existant grasp on clearance/pilot holes.

[Jonathan Jung]

As an aside tip, Fuller makes excellent brad points in short length that work great in the Amana countersinks. I love em

[Jared Sankovich]

Those are OK for decks, but for actual woodworking many screws will be close to and edge, driven at an angle, driven into non-flat surface, driven deeper for plugs, etc.,
so that item falls in the DNB category.

Youtube in general has an almost non-existant grasp on clearance/pilot holes.

That sort of depends on what your screwing together. I screw my cabinet boxes together so its the same operation over and over. I have one of the amana bits and it works well.

[Mark e Kessler]

I have been using the Amana carbide countersinks for 30 yrs, if I want a clearance hole it typically is a 2 step operation. With the Spax screws and depending on what and where I am screwing I for the most part just do the countersink with the pilot if it needs the clearance then I just grab a drill bit and drill it. I have probably 5-6 of the Amana's, some with the pilot bit and some with the clearance sized drill. On slotted wood screws I always do the proper pilot and clearance hole. I also don't have the bearing stop thingy, I don't need no dang trining wheels! lol...

I didn't realize that it was an influencer thing....