110sq.ft handtool woodshop. Layout suggestion?

[Dan Kraakenes]

I have an option of using an smaller room then I first intended for a small handtool woodshop.

Approx 110sq.ft.
8.85 x 12.45 with 9ft height.

The 3.8m wall has a Window across it, from 1.8m to 2.4m. 3m long.

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I like the simplicity of room, and a window to look up at a mountain.
But not sure how to make best use of it.

Opposite wall of window, I thought about a full wall of storage, some 45cm (1.5ft) deep.

[Jim Becker]

For me, it would be a great bench in the middle so you can be on any side of the various stages of a project with tool storage on the wall that's on what you would consider the workbench "front"...where you would be standing and working the most relative to your vices, etc. Personally, I like adjustable height workbenches, but for hard-core hand-tool work it takes a pretty big effort to have that while also having a bench that doesn't move an iota when you are working with a plane or a saw. Make sure you provide for really good light...which is pretty easy these days with LED fixtures that are not expensive and easy to install.

[Dan Kraakenes]

Sorry about the fisheye effect and the clutter..

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[Jim Becker]

Dan, you should be able to make that into a nice, cozy workspace...so nice to have the natural light while still preserving the lower wall surface, too. Seeing what you have, I'd lay down a mat system before moving anything in there...great for the feet and "softens the blow" if you drop a sharp tool. Do all those kinds of things before the move in. Once you know the exact position you want to keep your bench, you can cut the mat tight to and under the legs so that the bench is on the solid floor.

[George Yetka]

No wasted space is the key.Like Jim said a central bench with lots of internal storage. I would make one long side have a surface that comes off the wall no more than 18" leaving space for drawers and cubbies under and wall storage above. This would leave s 30" bench with 3' in front of the bench and 2' behind the bench with minimal wall protrusion on the opposite walls. I would limit myself to 6" on either end 7' bench" and 27" walkway on the sides of the bench.

6" of protrusion should get almost any hand tool on the wall. 1 wall with a little depth of storage will allow drawers for hardware, a secondary surface, lumber storage.

Every inch counts. So tool holders on the wall use 3/8 material instead of 3/4 etc etc it grows when multiplied. I would work on not overstoring materials.

And dont forget the ceiling. I dated a girl 20 years ago whos father had screwed every pickle jar lid to the ceiling then would fill the jars with hardware and put it back on the cap. It was an ingenious use of space. and it was very easy to find what you need

[Charlie Velasquez]

Can’t tell what your floor is.
Jim’s concept of leg fatigue is spot on, and the safety factor of dropping tools on a soft floor is good, but i would go a different route.
The space is limited, sooner or later you will want to move your bench to accommodate some clumsy shaped project.
I would make a bench mobile. Maybe two wheels always in contact and use the wheelbarrow principle to move it, or four wheels with two retractable. (I would want two legs with direct contact with the floor to be able to do all my chopping and paring over it).

To that end, a mat system might get in the way. But leg fatigue is real. If your floor is wood, maybe a single mat, easily moved, will suffice; or even a good pair of shoes.
If concrete, I would cover the floor with Foamular panels, then skin it with good quality, dense osb panels, then as above.
But, I would want the floor to be stiff enough to easily handle a mobile bench. Maybe a mat system would, but I think an osb floor would be meet all the criteria.

[Dan Kraakenes]

Floor right now is concrete.. but I will install 14mm (9/16’’) Parquete floring.
So hopefully the tools wont be hurt.. :)

But will consider a rubber mat to stand on..

Underfloor heating and plenty of LED Lightning.

[Aaron Inami]

Take a look at these videos to get an idea of what things look like once you start filling it up:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYOtuBqG3pA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHA0ZqKhoUQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbyG2rWtpdk

[Ben Ellenberger]

That’s about how much space I have in my garage. I have my bench across one wall, a chest with tools under the bench. A table to my right holds odds and ends and my wall cabinet with planes and saws sits on it. To my left is a cabinet on the floor with glue, finishes, supplies and a sharpening station on top.

When I move out of my apartment and can set up a permanent space, I think this amount of space would work fine.

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[Dan Kraakenes]

Nobody suggested a full wall bench yet? :)

My first thought with the room was a full wall bench under windows, with tool storage in drawers.
Use 2’’ kitchen Oak top, and use up the 2x4 I have from buliding garage. Connected to wall it would not move.

Wall across from it, full wall storage of materials, clamps, semi-finished projects, and the few power tools I still have (plunge saw, jigsaw, vacum, mitre saw).

Would leave some 5ft of floor space in middle.

[Jim Becker]

If you do really small projects, a "wall bench" can be workable, but otherwise IMHO, they take up a lot of space and are essentially unmovable should you need to do something special. A hefty, traditional bench of some sort that's normally in the middle gives you four side access to your work and can be moved if necessary to "do whatever" should the circumstances require. But this is certainly a subjective thing and what's most important is that your shop meet your own needs!

[Charlie Velasquez]

Floor right now is concrete.. but I will install 14mm (9/16’’) Parquete floring.
So hopefully the tools wont be hurt.. :)

But will consider a rubber mat to stand on..

Underfloor heating and plenty of LED Lightning.
Sounds like you have radiant heat already embedded in your concrete?
If so, they make a waffle-weave membrane that can lay on heated floors.

A hardwood floor directly on concrete will not do much for its hardness. Adding the membrane will give the floor just a tad of cushion that will make a big difference.