Link Belt for Jointer?

[Pat Germain]

I have a Shop Fox 8" jointer. I like this machine a lot, but it sat unused for many years while I was restoring a classic car.

I have recently started using the jointer again. It now has a pretty significant vibration which was not there years ago. I suspect the drive belt might be causing the vibration after being in one position for so many years.

Can I replace the factory V-belt on my jointer with a link belt? My only experience with a link belt is the one I installed on my previous table saw. It was a Craftsman contractor saw with the external, belt-driven motor. The link belt worked really well on that saw and eliminated a lot of vibration. But I don't know if it's a similar story with a jointer. (I replaced the Craftsman saw with a SawStop PCS.)

Also, I took a look at a link belt during a recent trip to my local Woodcraft. It was almost $60.00. Is this the current, typical cost for a link belt? Or are there good, less expensive vendors I should consider? And is there a difference between the red and green link belt?

Thanks.

[Edward Weber]

Sgort answer, ves.
Link belts come in a variety of sizes other than the standard 1/2" and 3/8".
https://www.fennerdrives.com/ptmove/

I've had a link belt on my jointer for over 15 years, no problems

[Bernie Kopfer]

I have had link belts on my jointer and drill press for years w/o problems. Did not realize that they have become so $$!

[Bill Dufour]

Horrible Fright has a link belt that looks okay. I think it is made by a USA maker.
Bill D.
https://www.harborfreight.com/vibration-free-link-belt-43771.html

[Phil Gaudio]

I have a Shop Fox 8" jointer. I like this machine a lot, but it sat unused for many years while I was restoring a classic car.

I have recently started using the jointer again. It now has a pretty significant vibration which was not there years ago. I suspect the drive belt might be causing the vibration after being in one position for so many years.

Can I replace the factory V-belt on my jointer with a link belt? My only experience with a link belt is the one I installed on my previous table saw. It was a Craftsman contractor saw with the external, belt-driven motor. The link belt worked really well on that saw and eliminated a lot of vibration. But I don't know if it's a similar story with a jointer. (I replaced the Craftsman saw with a SawStop PCS.)

Also, I took a look at a link belt during a recent trip to my local Woodcraft. It was almost $60.00. Is this the current, typical cost for a link belt? Or are there good, less expensive vendors I should consider? And is there a difference between the red and green link belt?

Thanks.

It's been my experience that regular v belts are considerably less expensive than link belts. The existing belt should have either a Shop Fox part number or a v belt number on it: use that number do do a search online. I'd be surprised if you could not find a replacement for short money, and if all else on the machine is in good condition, the old v belt induced vibration should be gone.

[Pat Germain]

Thanks, guys. Looking online, it appears Woodcraft is marking up link belt at almost 100% over other vendors. I'm all for supporting my local store, but sheesh.

[Pat Germain]

It's been my experience that regular v belts are considerably less expensive than link belts. The existing belt should have either a Shop Fox part number or a v belt number on it: use that number do do a search online. I'd be surprised if you could not find a replacement for short money, and if all else on the machine is in good condition, the old v belt induced vibration should be gone.

I'm sure you are correct. It appears I can get a link belt for under $40.00. I'm happy to spend that for indefinite, smooth operation.

[Lee Schierer]

Link belts were used to replace V-belts on table saws that used the motor weight to tension the belt. If the saw sat for several days or more the belt would take a set around the pulleys which would cause the motor to bounce around when the saw was started. I you use your saw every day you probably don't need a link belt. One of the new toothed V-belts would probably work just as smooth as the link belt.

[Edward Weber]

All things being equal, link belts just last much, much longer and spall less debris.
I've had a link belt on a reeves drive lathe for well over a decade and it doesn't gum it up like a rubber based belt.

[Richard Coers]

I'd loosen the belt you have now and move it so one of the suspected bad spots hits the cutter head at a different time as the other spot. Since you have the belt in hand, should be easy to go to an auto parts store and get a new belt. I'm not a fan of link belts, too many parts!

[Warren Lake]

have cog belts on some shapers and they turn easier than other machines and dont have that hard memory you feel in hand turning on some machines.

[glenn bradley]

I put a link belt on my G0490X Grizzly jointer during initial assembly back in 2007 or 2008(?). It is still in good shape and has never needed adjustment.

[Alex Zeller]

I have several Grizzy/ Shop Fox tools and I swear they use the cheapest belts they can find. The rubber is almost as bad as the belts that come on the Harbor Freight tools. I almost always change them out for a name brand belt, like a Browning. Once I do that they seem to not develop a memory as quickly and if they do they quickly lose it once they start running. They also grip better and don't shed particles. I usually go that route over link belts simply because of cost. Link belts are nice because you can have just one in your shop and replace almost any belt.

[Rich Engelhardt]

"Real" link belt has always been expensive.
They were about $50 back in 2006.
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?45534-link-belts-where-do-u-get-them&highlight=link+belt

Made in the USA - might have something to do with the higher cost.

[Curt Harms]

I'm sure you are correct. It appears I can get a link belt for under $40.00. I'm happy to spend that for indefinite, smooth operation.

You might also look into AX/"cogged" V belts. They're reputed to not take a set like common V belts, run quieter than link belts and cost about the same as a common V belt. One advantage to the link belts is you can make them any length you need. I used that capability on a drill press that didn't have an easy way to adjust tension on the V belt.

[Jonathan Jung]

I've used different brands of link belts and went back to cogged v belts. The noise and extra vibration of link belts was annoying. A quality v belt (Continental for one) is quieter and smoother in my experience. Having a link belt on hand isn't a bad idea for an emergency.

[Pat Germain]

I've used different brands of link belts and went back to cogged v belts. The noise and extra vibration of link belts was annoying. A quality v belt (Continental for one) is quieter and smoother in my experience. Having a link belt on hand isn't a bad idea for an emergency.

That's surprising. I don't see how a link belt could create more noise and vibration, but I believe you.

[Bill Howatt]

I don't understand the vibration given my experience with them but I do think they might be noisier - maybe because their non-smooth, link surfaces whipping up more air as the belt turns?

[Edward Weber]

If fitted properly, direction, width, etc, there is no added vibration using link belts.
Sounds like the incorrect size belt for the pulley IME
If the tails (inside tabs) of the links are touching or hitting the pulley, this could cause vibration


https://www.in-lineindustries.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Accu-Link-Belt-Instructions.pdf

[Curt Harms]

I don't understand the vibration given my experience with them but I do think they might be noisier - maybe because their non-smooth, link surfaces whipping up more air as the belt turns?

That is my understanding, the outside surface is not as smooth as regular or cogged V belts.