Milwaukee Cordless Track Saw

[Pat Germain]

I recently saw an initial review for the Milwaukee cordless track saw on YouTube. The creator complained at the beginning of the video that Milwaukee had him, "Really pissed off". Turned out he was pissed because he was so endeared to his Makita corded track saw and, by golly, he had to admit the Milwaukee saw was better in multiple ways.

I've never owned a track saw. I would like to pick one up for building shop cabinets. The Milwaukee track saw is expensive, but it appears to me any of the really good track saws are pretty expensive. If they're going to be expensive, I might was well get a really good example. (I'm not positive, but I think the Milwaukee track saw costs less than a Festool track saw.) The guy in the YouTube video I saw said he really wasn't impressed by the lower cost saws from Kreg, Grizzly or WEN, but that is just his take. (He did own all of those examples.)

Would I be wasting money on a cordless track saw if it's just for my shop and I won't take it to job sites? The YouTube video compared the Milwaukee cordless saw to a corded Makita and I was surprised to see there was no difference in performance. (Recharging being the exception.)

I have a Milwaukee cordless drill that absolutely runs circles around, spanks all over and sets fire to the DeWalt drill it replaced. I think the batteries are interchangeable? Not sure if that's a factor at all.

I know folks here love to talk about power tools, so I'd really like to talk about the Milwaukee track saw. Your thoughts and opinions will help me to decide.

Thanks!

[Jim Becker]

The new Milwaukee track saw is a very good tool. I do think that cordless is more helpful to the contractor out on sight than folks in a shop doing fine woodworking, largely because in the shop, we're going to want to use a dust extractor and that means there still will be a "tail". But if you already have the M18 battery setup, it's certainly a solid choice to compare against the Festool, Mafial and Makita track saws. (corded or cordless) I watched Kyle from RR Buildings discuss the Milwaukee pre-release and I was pretty impressed. It has a nice feature that it can "stick" to the track (requires the Milwaukee track for this feature) which adds the utility that Festool has with their construction type saws and only recently embraced on the latest "fine work" track saw. But the red tool is still completely compatible with Festool, Makia and Mafial tracks. If I was in the Milwaukee eco-system, I'd probably have that new saw in my arsenal already.

I will mention that the Kreg saw that you brought up does have one feature that some folks might prefer and that's having the blade on the left instead of the right compared to the other track saws.

[Pat Germain]

Thank you, Jim.

[Jim Dwight]

I own a corded DeWalt track saw and use an Evolution track saw at church sometimes. I've never used the Milwaukee cordless or the other track saws but I look at the reviews. I think the Wen and presumably the Grizzly are like the Evolution saw my church has. They work but do not have all the same features as the better saws. I see them as a totally reasonable choice if that is what fits into your budget. But you seem to be able to get a better saw. I am not sure where to place the Kreg but my impression is it may be a bit better than these basic saws. I think the Makita and DeWalt are similar in capabilities but the DeWalt requires a unique track which doesn't work in it's favor. They are not quite as nice as the Festool but give up nothing in power or quality of cut. The Milwaukee cordless seems to have fewer differences from the Festool than even the DeWalt or Makita. I see it as a great choice if you already have other Milwaukee tools. Track saws don't require dust collection but they are set up for it and it is nice to use because they spew a good volume of dust (like a circular saw). If you are already attaching a vacumn hole (I use a Bosch 6 meter hose on my Rigid shop vac) it isn't a big deal to also attach a power cord, especially in my shop. I've copied the Festool idea but using computer connectors so I have a power cord on the vacumn hose so I can just move both from my sander to my track saw to my domino as I work. So I'm not sure how much hassle reduction would come from a battery operated saw if you also use a vacumn but I don't see that it would hurt anything either. If I were to buy a battery powered track saw any time soon it would be the Milwaukee.

[Pat Germain]

I own a corded DeWalt track saw and use an Evolution track saw at church sometimes. I've never used the Milwaukee cordless or the other track saws but I look at the reviews. I think the Wen and presumably the Grizzly are like the Evolution saw my church has. They work but do not have all the same features as the better saws. I see them as a totally reasonable choice if that is what fits into your budget. But you seem to be able to get a better saw. I am not sure where to place the Kreg but my impression is it may be a bit better than these basic saws. I think the Makita and DeWalt are similar in capabilities but the DeWalt requires a unique track which doesn't work in it's favor. They are not quite as nice as the Festool but give up nothing in power or quality of cut. The Milwaukee cordless seems to have fewer differences from the Festool than even the DeWalt or Makita. I see it as a great choice if you already have other Milwaukee tools. Track saws don't require dust collection but they are set up for it and it is nice to use because they spew a good volume of dust (like a circular saw). If you are already attaching a vacumn hole (I use a Bosch 6 meter hose on my Rigid shop vac) it isn't a big deal to also attach a power cord, especially in my shop. I've copied the Festool idea but using computer connectors so I have a power cord on the vacumn hose so I can just move both from my sander to my track saw to my domino as I work. So I'm not sure how much hassle reduction would come from a battery operated saw if you also use a vacumn but I don't see that it would hurt anything either. If I were to buy a battery powered track saw any time soon it would be the Milwaukee.

And another thank you, Jim.

[John Kananis]

Jim, the dewalt doesn't require a special track. I use mine with both the dewalt tracks and the festool tracks. The dewalt tracks give you two sides to cut on (so you either don't have to flip the track or can use two different blades) and the festool allow you to use jigs and fixtures (like parallel and angle guides).


I own a corded DeWalt track saw and use an Evolution track saw at church sometimes. I've never used the Milwaukee cordless or the other track saws but I look at the reviews. I think the Wen and presumably the Grizzly are like the Evolution saw my church has. They work but do not have all the same features as the better saws. I see them as a totally reasonable choice if that is what fits into your budget. But you seem to be able to get a better saw. I am not sure where to place the Kreg but my impression is it may be a bit better than these basic saws. I think the Makita and DeWalt are similar in capabilities but the DeWalt requires a unique track which doesn't work in it's favor. They are not quite as nice as the Festool but give up nothing in power or quality of cut. The Milwaukee cordless seems to have fewer differences from the Festool than even the DeWalt or Makita. I see it as a great choice if you already have other Milwaukee tools. Track saws don't require dust collection but they are set up for it and it is nice to use because they spew a good volume of dust (like a circular saw). If you are already attaching a vacumn hole (I use a Bosch 6 meter hose on my Rigid shop vac) it isn't a big deal to also attach a power cord, especially in my shop. I've copied the Festool idea but using computer connectors so I have a power cord on the vacumn hose so I can just move both from my sander to my track saw to my domino as I work. So I'm not sure how much hassle reduction would come from a battery operated saw if you also use a vacumn but I don't see that it would hurt anything either. If I were to buy a battery powered track saw any time soon it would be the Milwaukee.

[Derek Meyer]

I have both the Dewalt corded and cordless track saws, with the Dewalt tracks. The cordless has all the power of the corded model, and is great to use outside of the shop. I have used it while framing my deck, trimming the support beams to length, and will use it to cut the 45 degree angles on my outside deck boards (picture frame border). I will probably get rid of my corded saw as I don't see using it now that I have to cordless version.

I've considered getting the Festool tracks to be able to use the jigs, but that's a pretty big expense for something I might not use much.

[Dave Sabo]

Would I be wasting money on a cordless track saw if it's just for my shop and I won't take it to job sites? T

Absolutely.

Even if you already own the M18 batteries, you’d be putting wear and tear on them with little to no benefit. You don’t need the portability. If you don’t own the batteries , buying them just for a low use tool is not fiscally sound.

Something no one has mentioned yet is the balance / ergonomics of these battery saws. They are heavier and not as well balanced as their electric siblings. Not a total deal breaker , but if you don’t need the cordless aspect it’s kinda pointless to suffer the penalty no matter how small.

If this is primarily for casework , I’d strongly suggest you get the Festool rail with the holes in so you can have 32mm capability down the road. It’ll work with the Festool saw as well as the Makita and a few others.

Another contender would be the Bosch saw (which has a 32mm hole guide) but that uses an entirely different track system that has less support from OEM as well as third party vendors for accessories.

My take is the Makita represents the best value , though I’ve seen Bosch saws on sale or close out that make it a compelling choice too. Not at full price though ! Great saw , just not as good a value at full price compared to the Makita. A used festool may be an option as they outsell everyone and have for decades. Their numerous owners also suffer from upgradeitis too.

[Pat Germain]

Absolutely.

Even if you already own the M18 batteries, you’d be putting wear and tear on them with little to no benefit. You don’t need the portability. If you don’t own the batteries , buying them just for a low use tool is not fiscally sound.

Something no one has mentioned yet is the balance / ergonomics of these battery saws. They are heavier and not as well balanced as their electric siblings. Not a total deal breaker , but if you don’t need the cordless aspect it’s kinda pointless to suffer the penalty no matter how small.

If this is primarily for casework , I’d strongly suggest you get the Festool rail with the holes in so you can have 32mm capability down the road. It’ll work with the Festool saw as well as the Makita and a few others.

Another contender would be the Bosch saw (which has a 32mm hole guide) but that uses an entirely different track system that has less support from OEM as well as third party vendors for accessories.

My take is the Makita represents the best value , though I’ve seen Bosch saws on sale or close out that make it a compelling choice too. Not at full price though ! Great saw , just not as good a value at full price compared to the Makita. A used festool may be an option as they outsell everyone and have for decades. Their numerous owners also suffer from upgradeitis too.

Very good advice. Thanks.

I am wavering between the Makita with a tail and the cordless Milwaukee. I will have to dig deeper into the Milwaukee to see what the options are. Thus far I have seen only full kits with batteries, charger and carrying case and I don't need all that.

I have looked online many times for used Festool tools. All I have ever seen are the plastic carrying cases and a couple of sanders. Never have I seen any saws or, of course, a Domino.

[Jim Dwight]

I have a Domino XL and I bought it used but paid about what a new one costs. It was worth it. By far the best way to cut mortises and make mortise and tenon joints in my opinion. But you have to avoid the trap of only using the premade tenons or you will have weaker joints. I make my own tenons and make any size the project calls for. So the joints are normal size and just as strong as an integral tenon (as long as I glue it up properly). My shop is small, however, and I think there is a case that a big floor standing mortise machine may be at least as good but I don't have nearly enough room for that. The domino stores under the workbench ready to go on a moments notice.

I see no reason to spend the extra dollars on a Festool track saw, however. I assume it would be nicer to use and some of the extras would be useful but my DeWalt makes cuts every bit as accurately as my SS table saw. The cut quality is just as good. I made all the glue joints for my 10 foot long dining room table with it. I want a track saw to make good quality accurate cuts. For the price difference, I would buy a DeWalt or Makita. The Makita is probably better since you can use many jigs sold for the Festool.

Being naturally cheap, I would be tempted to try and use after market tracks, however. But others report issues with them so I am not sure. Powertec is one company that offers them. Tracks are a significant part of a track saw's cost.

[Pat Germain]

I have a Domino XL and I bought it used but paid about what a new one costs. It was worth it. By far the best way to cut mortises and make mortise and tenon joints in my opinion. But you have to avoid the trap of only using the premade tenons or you will have weaker joints. I make my own tenons and make any size the project calls for. So the joints are normal size and just as strong as an integral tenon (as long as I glue it up properly). My shop is small, however, and I think there is a case that a big floor standing mortise machine may be at least as good but I don't have nearly enough room for that. The domino stores under the workbench ready to go on a moments notice.

I see no reason to spend the extra dollars on a Festool track saw, however. I assume it would be nicer to use and some of the extras would be useful but my DeWalt makes cuts every bit as accurately as my SS table saw. The cut quality is just as good. I made all the glue joints for my 10 foot long dining room table with it. I want a track saw to make good quality accurate cuts. For the price difference, I would buy a DeWalt or Makita. The Makita is probably better since you can use many jigs sold for the Festool.

Being naturally cheap, I would be tempted to try and use after market tracks, however. But others report issues with them so I am not sure. Powertec is one company that offers them. Tracks are a significant part of a track saw's cost.

Thanks for the tips.

Yeah, I would like to get a Domino. I've got a few other priorities for right now. Years ago I was at my local Woodcraft admiring the Festool display. A guy came up next to me and said, "I'm building an entertainment center. I think that Domino will work really well for it." Before I could warn him about the price, he walked over to the counter and said, "Hey, how much is that Domino?"

The guy at the counter said, "Hang on, I'll look it up". He pulled out a Festool chart, ran his finger down the list and said, "I can sell it you for $887". The customer's mouth literally dropped open and just hung there. He walked out and his mouth was still hanging open.

Of course, I should have bought a Domino at the $887 price. Now they're almost twice the price.

[Michael Schuch]

The Milwaukee track saw is expensive, but it appears to me any of the really good track saws are pretty expensive. If they're going to be expensive, I might was well get a really good example.

This was exactly my thinking. I spent more on my track saw than any other woodworking tool in my shop (I don't buy new tools for the most part). After a lot of research and reading to make sure I was getting the best for my money I ended up buying a Mafell track saw which runs on Bosch tracks (Mafell puts their own name on the same tracks and sell for a lot more money). One of the advantages to the Bosch track system is that it uses a connector that eliminates any misalignment of two tracks being butted together... which is supposed to be superior to the Festool and other track systems.

https://www.timberwolftools.com/mafell-mt55cc-plunge-track-saw

I am VERY pleased with my Mafell! The one time I took it out of the shop was to cut the bottoms off a bunch of interior doors for a friend that was getting new flooring. Not having a cordless was not an issue for that job. The Milwaukee cordless was not available when I purchased my Mafell so it didn't make my list to research.

It looks like the Milwaukee cordless track saw uses the Festool track system?

[Michael Schuch]

It has a nice feature that it can "stick" to the track (requires the Milwaukee track for this feature) which adds the utility that Festool has with their construction type saws and only recently embraced on the latest "fine work" track saw. But the red tool is still completely compatible with Festool, Makia and Mafial tracks. .

A Mafell track saw has allowances to run on a Festool track but its native track system is Bosch. To have the anti tilt (stick to the track) feature with the Mafell saw it requires the use of the Mafell / Bosch track. On a Festool track there is no lip for the saw to lock under and the saw can accidentally tilt just like a Festool saw. The lip / anti-tilt is really only needed when cutting at a pretty steep (near 45 degree) bevel with the motor way up in the air. On square (90 degree) cuts the extra lip doesn't really do anything to improve the saw or the cut.

[Jim Becker]

Michael, as I mentioned previously, the new Milwaulkee setup has the "clip to the track" feature. It's true that it's not available on the regular Festool and Makita tracks, but Festool does have a clip to track feature on their HKC saws and the new TS 60 KEB-F can also clip onto the FSK cross cutting tracks.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Makita also has clips to hold it to the tracks.
It's been a welcome change for me with the Makita cordless I bought to replace the Festool corded saw I had.
The Festool was a bit adventurous to use for 45* cuts - the Makita is quite tame.

It's good Milwaukee included that feature. It's also nice to see a riving knife on the Milwaukee.
If I weren't as heavily invested in Makita tools/batteries, I would get the Milwaukee cordless saw.

(or Ridgid - I see Ridgid has the track lock feature also. All around, Ridgid has a very nice looking track saw also)

Added weight on a track saw is a positive since it allows the momentum of the saw to work for you, not against you.
Since the saw rides on solid tracks and it has it's side to side thrashing eliminated, the added weight just makes the saw go straight down the track easier.
For non-track use, I absolutely agree - nothing beats light and handy. I seldom, if ever, use my Ryobi 7 1/4" circular saw. I grab my Makita 5 1/2" cordless circular saw instead or my 3 1/2" 12V Makita trim saw.

[Alex Zeller]

I don't have a track saw yet but it's on the Christmas list. For decades I have been using an 8' Lufkin wooden straight edge clamped to the sheet with quick grips. Then I just run my circular saw against it. After using a cord for all these years I would only get a cordless one. The cord just seems to find a way to get caught on something no matter what I do. A dust collection hose is much larger so it's never been an issue. But that's me. Since I got sucked into the Milwaukee M18 ecosystem it's the only one on the list. I just don't work with a lot of sheet goods so I haven't jumped in...yet.

[Jim Dwight]

I'm not trying to say the Bosch/Mafell system is not a good idea but I do not find it difficult to join tracks and keep them straight. At home, for 8 foot material I have a 106 inch track which is not as long as I'd like but it works OK so no joining. But at church, we have two 50 inch Wen tracks and they have to be joined to cut down an 8 foot sheet. I just put a long metal level along the rib of the track to be sure it is straight as I tighten the grub screws. That track, like the Festool, has two bars so the joined track is pretty strong and can be handled pretty normally. When I was making my 10 foot dining room table I had to rip a straight edge on 10+ foot long boards so I had to join a couple of my tracks. The DeWalt track only has a place for one joining bar. I followed the same process but had to be a little careful with the joined track.

Long way of saying I don't think joining tracks is a big deal but it is a very good idea to check to be sure the resulting track is straight. Two 55 inch tracks is cheaper than a 55 and a 112 and will do pretty much the same thing. 55 inch ones are also easier to store and transport. I like my long track but I'm not sure I'd buy it if I was starting out again with a track saw.

[Derek Cohen]

I've never owned a track saw. I would like to pick one up for building shop cabinets. .....

Would I be wasting money on a cordless track saw if it's just for my shop and I won't take it to job sites? The YouTube video compared the Milwaukee cordless saw to a corded Makita and I was surprised to see there was no difference in performance. (Recharging being the exception.) .....

Thanks!

Pat, since this is for your work shop, the more important question is whether you need a tracksaw? If you have a tablesaw, then you can do all - and more - than a tracksaw can do. I can say something about this from personal experience.

In addition to a tablesaw (Hammer K3), out of curiosity I purchased a 20-year old (but unused) Festool tracksaw about 18 months ago. I already had a Makita track (also purchased some while back for an experiment). The Makita is near-identical to the Festool, as well made, and half the price. Cheap set up. I then went about building a multifunction table around this, also to use for storage.

https://i.postimg.cc/CwTHmCGj/saw1.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

This combination works very well. Cuts cleanly and accurately. But is it an important addition to the shop? The answer to this is that I can live happily without it. The first time it really did something that the K3 could not (as easily do) was the trim the end of a table top which had curved sides (which made it difficult to register against a fence for squareness) ...

https://i.postimg.cc/2rBmkSNC/1a.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

That could have been done with a circular saw and guide, as this could also cut up panels (but I do not work with ply).

The second issue is portability in the workshop. If you look at the photo above you will see that there is also a dust ose connected. Where is one less connection going to matter? Dust collection is not a choice.

It comes down to whether you have the space and budget for a tool which may be little used, but very useful when needed.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Michael Schuch]

That could have been done with a circular saw and guide, as this could also cut up panels (but I do not work with ply).

The second issue is portability in the workshop. If you look at the photo above you will see that there is also a dust ose connected. Where is one less connection going to matter? Dust collection is not a choice.

It comes down to whether you have the space and budget for a tool which may be little used, but very useful when needed.



Very good points Derek! For the amount of money I have in my track saw I have used it very little. But the times I have used it the saw has proven its worth.

I have used my track saw for:
First cuts in 4 x 8 sheets.
Cutting 12mm acrylic sheet (with an acrylic blade and a reduced blade speed so the cut doesn't melt).
Cutting the bottom off of doors for a friend who got new flooring in her house.

and that is pretty much it. I have better tools in the shop that are better for other cuts. I will say that no matter which circular saw I use and which blade I have tried I have never gotten the cut quality out of a circular saw and a guide that I have gotten out of my track saw. I personally don't see any need for a track saw cut station. I can see how one would be great on a job site but I don't see any practical use for "MY" shop. I think many woodworkers got caught up in the hoopla of how great track saws are for contractors and missed the limited use they have in an otherwise well equipped woodworking shop. I know I did. :mad:

[Derek Cohen]

By coincidence, this review of the Milwaukee, and comparison with the Makita, came up on YouTube. The presenter is Scott Brown, a professional carpenter in New Zealand, and he knows the ins-and-outs of the trade. I have followed him for some time and trust his judgement. He covers all the issues here.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIjS6r-XX3k&ab_channel=ScottBrownCarpentry

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Michael Schuch]

I'm not trying to say the Bosch/Mafell system is not a good idea but I do not find it difficult to join tracks and keep them straight. At home, for 8 foot material I have a 106 inch track which is not as long as I'd like but it works OK so no joining. But at church, we have two 50 inch Wen tracks and they have to be joined to cut down an 8 foot sheet. I just put a long metal level along the rib of the track to be sure it is straight as I tighten the grub screws. That track, like the Festool, has two bars so the joined track is pretty strong and can be handled pretty normally. When I was making my 10 foot dining room table I had to rip a straight edge on 10+ foot long boards so I had to join a couple of my tracks. The DeWalt track only has a place for one joining bar. I followed the same process but had to be a little careful with the joined track.

Long way of saying I don't think joining tracks is a big deal but it is a very good idea to check to be sure the resulting track is straight. Two 55 inch tracks is cheaper than a 55 and a 112 and will do pretty much the same thing. 55 inch ones are also easier to store and transport. I like my long track but I'm not sure I'd buy it if I was starting out again with a track saw.


I have used both the Bosch/Mafell tracks and the Festool tracks. The joining system on the Bosch tracks is a cool feature and better engineered than the Festool system. It isn't the be all, end all of track saws or track saw tracks but it is a neat feature. Could I live without this feature? Yes, I definitely could! Is lining up two tracks with a straight edge really that hard? No, definitely not, but it is something that I don't have to worry about. I will mention that the piece to join two Bosch tracks together costs $90 by itself. The Bosch kit with two 63" tracks, the joining piece and a bag to carry everything is a reasonable $270. The 8' 6" Mafell track is $463.50, plus $56 shipping... which is a pretty good reason to buy a saw that uses the Festool profile track!

Another advantage of the Festool track system is that it is pretty much the universal standard at this point. Even my Mafell track saw will run on the Festool tracks.

I did a lot of research before I bought my Mafelll track saw. My research narrowed my choices down to 2 saws, the Mafell and the Makita. The Mafell was the most expensive of the saws I looked at but was well within $100 of all the other high end saws available at the time. The Makita was, at that time at least, the least expensive of the track saws. Either saw would work well for my purposes. I splurged and went with the fancy one. For as much use as my saw actually gets the wise choice would have been the Makita... but I do love my Mafell! :D

What I have discovered is that track saws are the most incredible tool ever created... for contractors. For "my" woodworking shop they are of limited use. I use my track saw and love it for what it does but it really isn't the be all end all tool that many contractors seem to think it is. I am quite pleased that contractors finally have a way to cut a straight line! The workmanship in all of the houses I have owned or worked on say that a straight line was impossible before Festool! When I rebuilt the main stairs in my house there wasn't a single step or riser with anything near a straight line on it. I was a little perturbed that I had to replace all the treads and risers to finally have a staircase that didn't squeak on every tread.

[Jim Becker]

Michael, is your Mafeil the "big" one with the larger blade?

[Michael Schuch]

Jim.

I have the Mafell MT55cc 6 1/2" track saw with a cord.

P.S. I saw your post about the Festool clip to track feature on their new saws and thought found it very interesting. I haven't cut any bevels with my track saw and I don't know how bad the saws without this feature are to control? But I knew I had to have this feature when I read about it in their marketing material... LOL!

[Pat Germain]

I have a very nice SawStop PCS. But it's difficult for me to cut full sheets of plywood on my table saw. I have a three car garage with most of my tools crammed into the third bay. If I pull the cars out, I can put plywood on the garage floor over some foam insulationg to breaking it down. This is why I want a track saw. Sure, I can use a saw guide and I have done so many times. I'm getting a little tired of the extra hassle with a saw guide and thought a good track saw would make things easier. I'm hoping a track saw will allow me to make precise cuts from full sheets of plywood without having to trim it in the table saw.

Thanks.

[Jim Becker]

P.S. I saw your post about the Festool clip to track feature on their new saws and thought found it very interesting. I haven't cut any bevels with my track saw and I don't know how bad the saws without this feature are to control? But I knew I had to have this feature when I read about it in their marketing material... LOL!
Yes, it was very nice of Festool to add the FSK crosscut track capability to the new track saw model since there are conceivably a lot of situations where having a captive track for repeated crosscuts (including on angles) with a "finish" type saw could be nice to have, such as for finish carpentry. No harm in adding additional utility! Think of it as being able to take a "miter saw" to the material instead of moving the material to the miter saw.

[Michael Schuch]

I have a very nice SawStop PCS. But it's difficult for me to cut full sheets of plywood on my table saw. I have a three car garage with most of my tools crammed into the third bay. If I pull the cars out, I can put plywood on the garage floor over some foam insulationg to breaking it down. This is why I want a track saw. Sure, I can use a saw guide and I have done so many times. I'm getting a little tired of the extra hassle with a saw guide and thought a good track saw would make things easier. I'm hoping a track saw will allow me to make precise cuts from full sheets of plywood without having to trim it in the table saw.

Thanks.



What you describe is exactly what I use my tracksaw for and it excels at this job! The Milwaukee track will do an excellent job for this as will most of the other name brand track saws. If cordless is your preference then go with a cordless. There is certainly an advantage to not having to mess around with a cord! None of my track saw cuts have needed table saw trimming. The track saw cut is the finished cut. I get much better results with my track saw than I ever got with my circular saw and a guide.

I think I saw in a review that Festool has a Bluetooth enabled track saw which will automatically turn on a Festool dust collector every time the saw is started.

[Michael Schuch]

Michael, is your Mafeil the "big" one with the larger blade?

I have the Mafell MT55 6.5" saw. They have so many different circular saws I don't know if that is the big one or the small one. LOL! Unfortunately is isn't the $8K Mafell track with power feed.

[Pat Germain]

What you describe is exactly what I use my tracksaw for and it excels at this job! The Milwaukee track will do an excellent job for this as will most of the other name brand track saws. If cordless is your preference then go with a cordless. There is certainly an advantage to not having to mess around with a cord! None of my track saw cuts have needed table saw trimming. The track saw cut is the finished cut. I get much better results with my track saw than I ever got with my circular saw and a guide.

I think I saw in a review that Festool has a Bluetooth enabled track saw which will automatically turn on a Festool dust collector every time the saw is started.

Thank you, Michael. This is very helpful.

Maybe I'll put the Milwaukee track saw on my Christmas list and see what happens. :-)

[Clifford McGuire]

Just a quick note in support of the cordless track saw.

My new shop is in the basement and going through the house is the only access. I break down sheet goods in the driveway, with the dust port pointed at the grass. Sure, I could do it closer to the house, with a vacuum attached. But it is so easy to pull them off the truck, lay them on the foam board, cut and take them downstairs. I've also done this at a friends cabin. I even did it once in a Home Depot parking lot.

I wish the Mikwaukee was available when I purchased the track saw, since that's my 18V battery platform. I ended up with the Makita and am very happy.

[Ron Selzer]

I have a very nice SawStop PCS. But it's difficult for me to cut full sheets of plywood on my table saw. I have a three car garage with most of my tools crammed into the third bay. If I pull the cars out, I can put plywood on the garage floor over some foam insulationg to breaking it down. This is why I want a track saw. Sure, I can use a saw guide and I have done so many times. I'm getting a little tired of the extra hassle with a saw guide and thought a good track saw would make things easier. I'm hoping a track saw will allow me to make precise cuts from full sheets of plywood without having to trim it in the table saw.

Thanks.

Local Woodcraft store has a device mounted to their SawStop that you set the sheet of plywood in and then raise the sheet up to cut. I looked at it 8-10 yrs ago, however don't need or want it as I use a 60" panel saw to handle all sheet goods. Something for you to hunt for as I am certain it would be a whole lot less money. I don't darken the door at Woodcraft store anymore as I have not received any customer service last three times there. Order on line instead of driving 40 minutes to get ignored. I did buy my SawStop ICS with all options there in 2014, was not a pleasant experience. Shop instructor where I work has same problem with them, yet is forced to deal there.
Ron

[Alan Lightstone]

I have both the Festool track saw and the Mafell K85EC with their guide rails. I think the Mafell guide rails are far better than the Festool ones. They lock securely and are perfectly straight. So really not sure what the above comments are about.

Yes the saw is a beast. Far heavier than the Festool, but with much greater cutting capacity. And, certainly, more expensive.

[Pat Germain]

Local Woodcraft store has a device mounted to their SawStop that you set the sheet of plywood in and then raise the sheet up to cut. I looked at it 8-10 yrs ago, however don't need or want it as I use a 60" panel saw to handle all sheet goods. Something for you to hunt for as I am certain it would be a whole lot less money. I don't darken the door at Woodcraft store anymore as I have not received any customer service last three times there. Order on line instead of driving 40 minutes to get ignored. I did buy my SawStop ICS with all options there in 2014, was not a pleasant experience. Shop instructor where I work has same problem with them, yet is forced to deal there.
Ron

I wouldn't be so sure that lift would cost less than a track saw. I get good service at my local Woodcraft, but sheesh are SawStop accessories expensive. I asked about the router extension and lift attachments they had on a floor model. When I added everything up it was over $1,600 and that didn't include a router. No thanks. I can build a router table extension myself.

[Rich Konopka]

Pat,

I started out with the Festool track saw and guide over 10 years ago. I am invested with the Makita 18v cordless tools and purchased the Makita cordless track saw and haven’t looked back. I have the Makita 118” track and recently ripped down 8 4x8 sheets of plywood and it was so quick and efficient. I have found the Makita and Festool to be interchangeable. Do you have any cordless tools? If so, consider their track saw if they have one. Also, the 3rd accessories like TSO products for track saws are awesome.

[Pat Germain]

Pat,

I started out with the Festool track saw and guide over 10 years ago. I am invested with the Makita 18v cordless tools and purchased the Makita cordless track saw and haven’t looked back. I have the Makita 118” track and recently ripped down 8 4x8 sheets of plywood and it was so quick and efficient. I have found the Makita and Festool to be interchangeable. Do you have any cordless tools? If so, consider their track saw if they have one. Also, the 3rd accessories like TSO products for track saws are awesome.

Thank you, Rich.

The only cordless tool I have now is a Milwaukee drill with a charger and two batteries. I figure that's a good start for going full on Milwaukee.

[Rich Konopka]

Thank you, Rich.

The only cordless tool I have now is a Milwaukee drill with a charger and two batteries. I figure that's a good start for going full on Milwaukee.
Pat,

You will not disappointed with the Milwaukee tools. The good thing about Milwaukee is they have good sales all the time at HD. There are also good deals with Black Friday. I doubt they will have the cordless saw and tracks on sale.

[Jim Becker]

Yes, HD is a good local source for many Milwaukee tools. I will also mention that Toolnut online is also a good source.

[Dave Sabo]

Here are some more of my thoughts/musings/clarification after being away for a bit:



A Mafell track saw has allowances to run on a Festool track but its native track system is Bosch.

Actually the "native" track system is from MAFELL. Bosch use the same profile and the connectors are interchangeable. Metabo also uses the same profile , but the connectors are not interchangeable. Bosch's version is available with holes to use a router jig to make 32mm spaced holes. I don't think Mafell ffers that.



Michael, as I mentioned previously, the new Milwaulkee setup has the "clip to the track" feature. It's true that it's not available on the regular Festool and Makita tracks,

For the sake of accuracy, the Makita DOES have an anti-tip feature.

Additionally, there are numerous sources for aftermarket anti-tip devices that will mate to Festool's TS55 line. I've seen the included (used to be anyway) Festool Limit Stop used to do the same thing. That's you feel you even need it.

I've never felt the need for such a gizmo. I rarely do bevel cuts and have just used my left hand to stabilize the plate in 45deg mode. It was sorta natural. I'll wager 99% of track saw users are making their bevel cut incorrectly anyway- which is prob. hy they fell the need for a gizmo.



After using a cord for all these years I would only get a cordless one. The cord just seems to find a way to get caught on something no matter what I do. A dust collection hose is much larger so it's never been an issue.

To each his own, but have you considered why your cord snagged but not your vac hose ? Secure your cord to the hose and your issue will go away. Use an rail edge protector and thinghs get easier too. The Mafell/ Bosch rails have them built in already !




I already had a Makita track (also purchased some while back for an experiment). The Makita is near-identical to the Festool, as well made, and half the price.

By coincidence, this review of the Milwaukee, and comparison with the Makita, came up on YouTube. The presenter is Scott Brown,


Have to disagree with this. They are cheaper, but not by 50%. They are also not as consistent (not straight) especially in the longer lenghts. Precesion + consistent manuf. cost money.


SB had some good thoughts on the saws. ALso had some out there conclusions. Plus I seriously question why the bottom of an already installed window needs trimming ?
Bluetooth is certainly nice for cordless tools...................BUT....... unless you're full cordless it's a minor convenience in my view. Few Cordless vacs out there and their run time is abysmal. Makita was the first to offer BT pairing and they have a battery vac too. Neither are big sellers from the folks I've talked to and jobsites I visit. Festool was next up with an add on module and has just now brought a battery vac to market. Thing is the BT modules add A LOT of expense to the equation. Scott seems to prefer that the cost be lumped in with the purchase price , but I find that unsophisticated view wasteful and not cinsumer friendly. His Metabo add on is much more versatile, and costs no more at the end of the day when the final accounting is done. SUre it's not as pretty as the OEM built in solutions, but gosh, those red milwaukee tracks sure are purrdy. So, I won't be lookin at the vac trigger system anyway !



Jim.

I have the Mafell MT55cc 6 1/2" track saw with a cord.

P.S. I saw your post about the Festool clip to track feature on their new saws and thought found it very interesting. I haven't cut any bevels with my track saw and I don't know how bad the saws without this feature are to control? But I knew I had to have this feature when I read about it in their marketing material... LOL!



See previous comments - I don't think bevels are as big a deal as the marketing boys would have you believe. And lots of aftermarket solutions for systems that don't have an OEM feature.



The good thing about Milwaukee is they have good sales all the time at HD. There are also good deals with Black Friday. I doubt they will have the cordless saw and tracks on sale.

Yup..........this volume means there will certainly be more opportunity for discounted gear.

[Rich Engelhardt]

FWIW - the "Festool Limited Stop" is/was an aid to reduce the chance of kickback, not for securing the saw to the track for 45* cuts.

As I mentioned above - I really like the track holding feature on my Makita. (might want to try one before knocking it)

[John Goodin]

To the cordless issue in a shop. . . I am a big fan of corded tools that will stay in the shop. Mainly, worried about having to replace tools if I want to switch to a different battery platform. That being said it would be nice not to constantly worry about the cord getting hung up on something when breaking down expensive plywood.

[Jim Becker]

ToolNut currently has a sale price on the Milwaukee track saw.

[Pat Germain]

To the cordless issue in a shop. . . I am a big fan of corded tools that will stay in the shop. Mainly, worried about having to replace tools if I want to switch to a different battery platform. That being said it would be nice not to constantly worry about the cord getting hung up on something when breaking down expensive plywood.

Agree completely. I have many tools with tails, but I'm thinking a track with no tail would be nice.

[Dave Sabo]

FWIW - the "Festool Limited Stop" is/was an aid to reduce the chance of kickback, not for securing the saw to the track for 45* cuts.

As I mentioned above - I really like the track holding feature on my Makita. (might want to try one before knocking it)

I know what it's "for" Rich................................I'm telling you and anyone else interested that it "can" be used for another purpose.

I've also tried all of the systems (most anyway) and was one of the first people in the country to own a tracksaw and have 1000's of hours of use with em, so I have a bit of knowledge . I wasn't knocking Makita's anti-tip feature; I actually applaud them for coming out first with a feature that many find useful. I am knocking their manufacturing and distribution process for their guide rails ! They are not as straight or consistent as Festool's .

It should be noted that no one is perfect, even Festool rails come out of tolerance sometimes AND they had a short lived debacle where they thought they'd produce the rails themselves in the USA. They soon found out that their "local" extruder couldn't produce to specs even at the higher price point.


I also question the "need" for an anti-tip gizmo or feature in the first place. Same as I question the "need" of a guide rail alignment jig, and a host of other gee wiz stuff that crops up. If you like it , fine. But I see too many folks get all knotted up cause the tool they're considering doesn't have this feature or that.




That being said it would be nice not to constantly worry about the cord getting hung up on something when breaking down expensive plywood.

WIth "expensive" plywood aren't you using a vacuum to give a better and cleaner cut ?
Aren't you worried about that hose getting hung up ?
There are many gizmos and techniques that will eliminate that iissue.

[Mark W Pugh]

Yes, HD is a good local source for many Milwaukee tools. I will also mention that Toolnut online is also a good source.

Seems like everyone has the track saw on sale, same price.

[Jim Becker]

Seems like everyone has the track saw on sale, same price.
Yea, and "tis the season". The deal at ToolNut was pretty decent, honestly, and if I wanted a cordless version I'd likely consider it, although now that I bought the CSX-18 from Festool and have their battery system, going red would be less likely and I'm well served by my "tracksaw with a tail" for what I do.

[Rod Wolfy]

Seems like everyone has the track saw on sale, same price.

ACME had a hidden sale last week. $100 off and added in a $30 gift card. Got the Milwaukee Track saw kit ordered for $429 plus the gift card (so, actually $399). I did not order the kit with the track, as in reading the reviews, many note that the zero clearance rubber rail comes "unstuck" within a few uses. Something to do with the glue that they used.

Which didn't matter to me, as I already have the Festool crosscut and 8'+ rails.

[Matt Day]

I’ve had a few track saws. The Menards version is trash - poor design. Festool is great, I have the 55 and 75.

But the real deal from a cost standpoint is the Wen. The saw, 2 tracks and clamps is like $200. Can’t beat it.put a Freud blade on it and you’re good to go.

[Mark W Pugh]

OK, bringing this thread to life. I can't find any NEGATIVES on the Milwaukee track saw. Anyone have any??? I thought I read somewhere there was a problem with the zero clearance strip coming off. Anyone, anything? Thx.

[Dave Sabo]

you're looking for negatives to why ........................?

All track saws have negatives.

Splinter guards have a penchant for coming off since Festo invented the tools last century - especially if you move them around a lot or live in a hot climate.

Most of them are just fine most of the time and aftermarket strips are available with adhesive that's very sticky. It's not really a valid reason to choose one saw over another given the data is mostly (entirely) anecdotal.

[Pat Germain]

Mrs. Pat got me an 8 foot track for my birthday, but I STILL haven't been able to use my Milwaukee track saw. We've had a lot of snow lately and I don't like to pull Mrs. Pat's Subaru into the snow so I can do woodworking in the garage.

I've read online reviews of the Milwaukee Track saw and I've watched video reviews on YouTube. I think they did a very good job of testing the saw and comparing it to other saws. That's why I chose the Milwaukee.

[Chris Varas]

I will chime in with my thoughts and experiences...

I bought a track saw around 2 years ago. I mostly use it for breaking down sheet goods which I personally don't find to be easily accomplished on the TS (particularly a full sheet of 3/4 material). Before I had the track saw, I used a standard circular saw with a straight edge which works OK but isn't ideal or always the most accurate so what I normally did was cut the pieces slightly oversized and then made the final cuts on the TS. Depending on what I'm doing, I still sometimes do that with the track saw but primarily only when I need multiple pieces cut to the exact same size. Repeatable accurate cuts is where a TS still has a strong advantage.

When I started looking at the saws, I had the same debate re: Cord or Cordless. I knew I would mostly be using it in the shop but I like the idea of being able to use it outside or remotely when/if needed (which I do on occasion). IMO, there isn't really any real downside to going cordless (other than price). I have replaced a lot of my power tools with cordless versions and I have to say, I love being cord free when possible. Sure you may still have a dust hose connected but IMO, that's still better then having both. May not be right for everybody but I'm happy with that decision.

I am fully vested in the Milwaukee M12/M18 battery system but this was before Milwaukee had released their track saw (and I knew as soon as I bought something else Milwaukee would release one and sure enough, it was about 6 months later when they did! lol). Out of the options at the time, I decided to go with the Makita 18v saw.

Its a very nice saw but I really do like some of the improvements the Milwaukee version has. Mainly the improved depth adjustment but the riving knife as well. Because of that and the fact that I don't like having a second battery system I am seriously considering selling the Makita and picking up the Milwaukee? The tracks are compatible and I have plenty of M18 batteries so I could just get the bare saw and keep the tracks I already have to keep the price down.

The one downside to the Milwaukee (and not fully discussed in the video posted) or mentioned in this thread (that I noticed) has to do with the riving knife. Because of the thickness of the riving knife, you have to use a blade with the appropriate thickness and to my knowledge, none of the aftermarket blades that people typically buy (Freud, CMT, Tenryu, etc.) have a blade that is compatible with the Milwaukee track saw so you are limited to using Milwaukee blades. That is one nice thing about the Makita is that they come with Makita labeled Tenryu blades which are excellent.

I guess long story short, if I didn't already have a saw and wasn't tied into any battery platform (and wanted cordless), either the Makita or Milwaukee are fine choices. Makita comes with a better blade and has more blade choices but the Milwaukee has better adjustments, uses a single battery and has a riving knife but that does limit your blade options. If you are already on the Milwaukee battery platform then the Milwaukee is almost a no brainer IMO. If you want or don't mind a corded saw then the Makita corded is a great value.

[Mark W Pugh]

you're looking for negatives to why ........................?

All track saws have negatives.

Splinter guards have a penchant for coming off since Festo invented the tools last century - especially if you move them around a lot or live in a hot climate.

Most of them are just fine most of the time and aftermarket strips are available with adhesive that's very sticky. It's not really a valid reason to choose one saw over another given the data is mostly (entirely) anecdotal.


You bet all track saws have negatives. However, the splinter guard coming off is big issue. My current track saw set up has a splinter guard that slides in to a slot. It does not rely of something sticky.

Has Milwaukee fixed this yet?

[John Lanciani]

We've had a lot of snow lately and I don't like to pull Mrs. Pat's Subaru into the snow so I can do woodworking in the garage.


As a long time Subaru owner this makes me sad for some reason...

[Jim Becker]

As a long time Subaru owner this makes me sad for some reason...
My Subaru lives outside. I've actually never put a vehicle in a garage for all the years I've been driving (think mid-1970s) other than for the MY20 Forester I was selling to a friend in Florida last year as it waited for her to come pick it up. I needed the space on the drive for my daughter's camper. :) But my opinion/practice and yours don't matter here...just Mrs Pat's opinion counts because otherwise, Mr Pat would be sleeping in said garage/shop. :D

[Rick Potter]

A minor point to consider. If you are already invested in one companies battery platform, you can still use them on other companies tools. Adaptors are available on Amazon for most well known brands.

In my case, I have a lot of Makita batteries, and use an adaptor for use on a couple inexpensive Ryobi tools, main one being the 18G brad nailer. Don't use it much and the Makita costs triple what I paid for the Ryobi (tool only) on sale.

[John Lanciani]

My Subaru lives outside. I've actually never put a vehicle in a garage for all the years I've been driving (think mid-1970s) other than for the MY20 Forester I was selling to a friend in Florida last year as it waited for her to come pick it up. I needed the space on the drive for my daughter's camper. :) But my opinion/practice and yours don't matter here...just Mrs Pat's opinion counts because otherwise, Mr Pat would be sleeping in said garage/shop. :D

Mine too, it loves the snow. I'd never sacrifice shop time just to keep the car dry.

[Pat Germain]

...just Mrs Pat's opinion counts because otherwise, Mr Pat would be sleeping in said garage/shop. :D

That's pretty much it in a nutshell. There's some history here. Back in 2016 I had the Mrs. Pat Legacy parked in the driveway because I was working in the garage. We got hit with the Hail Storm From Hell. Golf balls fell from the sky and completely destroyed the Mrs. Pat Subaru. It was a beautiful car; 5 years old and still appeared to be just off the show room floor. Mrs. Pat was devastated. So, I bought her a brand new, turbo Forester and now it's in the garage overnight and when it's snowing.

[Jim Becker]

"House Rules" always prevail, Pat. And, yea, the MY20 Forester Limited that was Professor Dr. SWMBO's had a few dings on the hood from hail when I sold it. Many vehicles today use aluminum for hood skins so the risk is a little higher. Nature of the beast. Unfortunately, PDR is much more difficult on aluminum, too.