handheld circular saw

[Chip Seltzer]

I am replacing my 40 year old Skill 7-1/2" handheld circular saw (it still worked but I gave it away!). Prefer a corded saw over cordless. I see the pricing all over the place and am wondering if there is that much difference between the new Skill saw for around $40 and the Dewalt for around $140. It isn't that price is not an option but I would rather have a tool that will last and work well. Thoughts?

[Ron Selzer]

personally I prefer a worm drive saw, like DEWALT 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw, 15-Amp, Worm Drive, Corded (DWS535B) - Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/DWS535B-Worm-Drive-Circular-Brake/dp/B07BR8D713/ref=asc_df_B07BR8D713?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80676721523958&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584276296744330&psc=1), Skil makes them also, have not used one myself. I have a Big Foot 10 1/4" and like it, I believe it is based on a Skil saw. Craftsman Professional ( long out of production) also works good for me. I have at least 5 worm drives 7 1/4, 8 1/4, 10 1/4
Ron
Ron

[Pat Germain]

Back in the 90s I had a cheap Skil brand circular saw. I never could get straight cuts with it; even if I used a saw guide. I chalked it up to my inexperience and lack of "skill".

I'm left-handed and saw Porter Cable sold a left-handed circular saw. I was pretty poor back then so I had to save up for a long while to buy that saw. But wow, was it worth it! Upon my first use I was able to make straight cuts. Turned out the blade on the Skil saw was not parallel with the shoe making straight cuts with a saw guide impossible. The Porter Cable saw was dead on. The PC motor was also WAY more powerful so it didn't bog on anything. I still have that saw and I still use it.

As we know, Porter Cable sold out to Black & Decker who quickly shut down the quality PC tool line and slapped "Porter Cable" on a bunch of crummy Black & Decker tools. So, PC is no longer an option for me. Black & Decker also owns the Skil brand and I wouldn't even consider any tool from either brand. Phooey!

So what to do now? Easy. Buy Milwaukee. I was recently working with a bunch of construction workers and almost every one of them used Milwaukee power tools exclusively. I asked them about this and they all said they had tried multiple brands and Milwaukee beat them all. I subsequently bought a Milwaukee cordless drill to replace my DeWalt drill which had died. Wow, what a difference! Milwaukee makes a lot of really spiffy power tools. I am now convinced to go Milwaukee with any future purchase of handheld power tools.

DeWalt power tools are also pretty good, but I think the Milwaukee tools are much better. So that's my take.

[andy bessette]

My worm-drive saw rarely is used--it's just too heavy for me any more. Much better is the Skilsaw 5-1/2". I use it even for cutting aluminum, with the proper blade.

[Jim Becker]

How you intend to use the saw and how often needs to be considered. I have three portable circular saws...a 1980s B&D corded (right side blade), a Bauer cordless (left side blade) and a Festool tracksaw. The first one has only really ever been used for "construction" purposes and since I got the battery saw, I'm even less likely to use it. It's unlikely I'll get rid of it, however, because it's in excellent condition and was my very first power tool ever...sentimental reasons to keep it, as it were. The second, battery powered saw, has been used for construction when my shop building was going up and for general utility around the property and occasionally cutting down a board or three in the shop instead of pulling out the miter saw. (rough lumber) It's what I grab when I need to cut something quickly anywhere on the property. The battery saw gets a surprising amount of use because it's quick to deploy and despite being a "cheap"tool, cuts well and doesn't appear to want to break. The track saw (with a tail) gets used in the shop and occasionally for home improvement tasks where it provides more utility than a regular circular saw and where dust collection matters.

So...if your need isn't for a "heavy user", the Skill replacement is worth considering. It's not likely going to be the same quality as the 40 year old one you had and the old B&D that I have, but it's going to cut. If you intend to use the saw more frequently and harder, the DeWalt or similar from other better brands is where I'd go. If your primary need is for in your shop...consider a tracksaw for the cut quality and accuracy it can bring.

[mike calabrese]

Not trying to be a jerk here but you do not need another saw that is going to last you another 40 years I would guess. Before you jump my bones I am at the age that when I buy a tool even a large box of screws I kind of chuckle because I think to my self I will never have to but that again I am good for the rest of my life.
Strike a price point that you are comfortable with and buy a saw in that range.
lastly here are a few links that may help your selection process.
calabrese55

https://www.popularmechanics.com/about/a28319503/best-circular-saws/

https://www.woodsmith.com/review/best-circular-saw/

https://www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=cicular+saw+reviews&sourceid=opera&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

https://www.woodsmith.com/review/best-circular-saw/

https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/home-products/g39777922/best-circular-saw/

https://www.bestreviews.guide/circular-saw-i?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9cKowZzugQMVhkdyCh16HApFEAMYAS AAEgKMk_D_BwE

[Pat Germain]

Not trying to be a jerk here but you do not need another saw that is going to last you another 40 years I would guess.

You know, I can see your point. But when I recall how miserable it was to use that Skil saw I had, I wouldn't even consider such a low-end tool unless it was for a one-time, disposable purpose. Like if I was visiting my brother in Oklahoma and needed a circular saw to help him fix a fence, I MIGHT buy a cheap Skil brand saw, used it for the day then donate it to Goodwill. But if it's going into my shop, Skil Black & Decker aren't even a consideration.

[Chip Seltzer]

I use the saw infrequently enough that it's been about a year since I gave my old one to my sister. Now I need it to cut a plywood desktop in place. For some reason, I just don't like cheap tools. It is very true that in 40 years I will be at room temperature (or colder!). I have thought about getting a track saw on a number of occasions and I still may do that the next time I have a "calling". Having it pointed out that Porter Cable now owns Skil; that decision is made. The HD near me has a Dewalt in stock that suits my purposes. I appreciate the feedback. Thank you.

[andy bessette]

I get no pleasure from working with cheap tools or machines. On the other hand, it is a joy to work with a quality tool or machine. I will be 80 next month and I would not consider buying a tool that would only just barely last me until I died.

[Ron Selzer]

I get no pleasure from working with cheap tools or machines. On the other hand, it is a joy to work with a quality tool or machine. I will be 80 next month and I would not consider buying a tool that would only just barely last me until I died.

Very well said
Ron

[Edward Weber]

How you intend to use the saw and how often needs to be considered.
+1
I've had many different brands of 7 1/4" corded saws and IME, my Milwaukee runs smoothest of anything I've ever used. Some models also come left or right blade depending on you preference.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Woodworking/Circular-Saws

[Cameron Wood]

As a West coaster, I have almost always used worm drive saws. As a bonus, they are one of the few tools apparently designed for us left-handers.

I tend to hate sidewinders, having trouble getting a straight cut, and dislike the balance, but they do spin at substantially higher rpms, which can result in a cleaner cut, especially in plywood.

Skil 77s are abundant on Craigslist for under $50, as folks abandon their corded tools.

[Erik Loza]

No complaints with my Milwaukee corded unit. You may already be planning this but I suggest investing in a good quality blade(s) rather than el-cheapo ones. Freud Diablo thin-kerfs have always done well for me. Good luck in your search.

Erik

[Warren Lake]

skip thin kerf, you are following a line and if you deviate you have to correct. Thin kerf is a limp cutting tool, they work better guided by a fence.

I started on a sidewinder and got used to that feel. then asked a carpenter friend who showed me his worm drive and it looked like it belonged in a museum. I bought a skill worm same as his but it was newer black plastic. Later the old guy gave me his black and decker which was the same but much heavier, I use that for concrete work. Re doing a roof and the last one getting older I could not longer hold the black handle one out in front of me with one arm or it was a bother.

Bought the red magnesium one and it was that much lighter easier to hold one handed in front of me problem solved. It will not last as long as the black plastic handle one but be fine.
Took a while to get used to a worm over a sidewinder but it happened and its good. I just rough cross cut 4/4 rough pine maybe 100 cuts and it worked fine in place of the radial not hooked up yet. I get worms are meant to be cutting downhill by gravity but that would be no good for what I was doing it worked well in front of me. Better than my old craftsman radial saw ever did.

[Thomas McCurnin]

The Skil worm drive 77s were specifically made for house and form framing. Accuracy was not a feature, but the thing could run 8 hours a day and last for years. If you cut goes off track, the thing is so long and heavy that it takes some effort to correct the cut. Again, slight deviations were not an issue for house framing in the 1960s.

Conversely, the sidewinders like old Porter Cable saws were more accurate on plywood cuts and did not deviate from a line and if it did, corrections were easier. If accuracy is a feature you desire.

Porter Cable made a trim saw which I have used more often than anything and was a delight to use, tracked well, and when using it with a guide or track, was a breeze.

So, I'm with Jim--what are you going to use it for?

[Jim Becker]

Having it pointed out that Porter Cable now owns Skil; that decision is made.
To clarify, Stanley Black and Decker (https://www.stanleyblackanddecker.com/brands) owns both Porter Cable (deprecated to mostly homeowner focused products) and DeWalt. Skill is owned by Chevron, a Chinese company, who bought the brand name from Bosch.

[Aaron Rosenthal]

I'm a Milwaukee "man" and still keep my corded sidewinder in my garage, like my corded Sawzall, "just in case".
I'm willing to bet you can find a real good sidewinder, quality made in Germany or Japan, on craigslist or even in an estate sale that will last you the rest of your life.
Like others here, I can't stand cheaply made tools.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I have a '70s Skil that was the pay I got for building a wooden fence for a friend. The bearings finally got bad enough, I bought a corded Makita to replace it.

As pointed out earlier, think about how you are going to use it and if you are left-handed or right-handed and buy a model that will allow you to see the blade and the cut line.

[Michael Schuch]

I love my Porter Cable 314 4.5" worm drive circular saw for most things. I only use the worm drive 77 Skill saw for really heave stuff. For pretty much everything except cutting into an existing floor or something I mostly use my track saw.

[Rich Engelhardt]

A few years ago when I was looking at saws to replace my Ryobi, I came to the conclusion that I should just go ahead and get a track saw since the next best thing was a worm drive saw.
At the time, a top shelf worm drive ran about $200 and the Festool TS55EQ ran about $500.

Over the years, I've added a cordless 5 1/2" Makita - which I dearly love since it is so handy - and a 3 1/2" 12V Makita - which is super handy for small trimming.

I still use the Ryobi for things also.

Saws are like routers and clamps - you can never have too many of them.

[Curt Harms]

I use the saw infrequently enough that it's been about a year since I gave my old one to my sister. Now I need it to cut a plywood desktop in place. For some reason, I just don't like cheap tools. It is very true that in 40 years I will be at room temperature (or colder!). I have thought about getting a track saw on a number of occasions and I still may do that the next time I have a "calling". Having it pointed out that Porter Cable now owns Skil; that decision is made. The HD near me has a Dewalt in stock that suits my purposes. I appreciate the feedback. Thank you.

Re Skil tools ownership. They were owned by Bosch and were purchased by Chervon, a Chinese company in 2017. The only thing I know about Chervon is that they made Craftsman routers at one point. I looked at one in a Sears store (that should date it somewhat) and it didn't look half bad. It had a separate collet like most routers - remember when Craftman router collets were just a threaded split motor shaft with motor fans that liked to self destruct? - and the plunge base was quite smooth.

[Ron Selzer]

"Saws are like routers and clamps - you can never have too many of them."

Sure seems to be that way!
Ron

[andrew whicker]

I like Metabo... (They are my cordless setup). Here is a corded version. The foot on these saws are really nice.

https://www.amazon.com/Metabo-HPT-C7SB3-Integrated-Adjustment/dp/B07P8PLQLM/ref=d_pd_sbs_sccl_3_1/143-3692102-9991531?

[Michael Drew]

Skill 77 - magnesium. I just replaced my 15yo mag77 with the updated version. It's a good saw. I also have a couple smaller saws for non-2X lumber work, but the 77 is, and always has been my go-to for framing. It's as "accurate" as I make it.... LOL

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B7EUS46/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&th=1

[Jerome Stanek]

I prefer a drop foot saw that the handle is always at the same angle.

[Michael Schuch]

I prefer a drop foot saw that the handle is always at the same angle.

What is a drop foot saw? Are you talking about the really old Porter Cable saws where there is no swivel and the whole bottom plate lowers? Or maybe a plunging track saw?

[Maurice Mcmurry]

What is a drop foot saw? Are you talking about the really old Porter Cable saws where there is no swivel and the whole bottom plate lowers? Or maybe a plunging track saw?

I can't speak for Jerome but I think the answer is, the whole bottom plate lowers. Skilsaw made several models that could be called a "drop foot". My daily user is that way. I don't think of it as old. I bought it in 1982.

509555 509556

[Jim Becker]

My old B&D tailed circ saw from the 1980s is a "drop foot"...and so is the battery powered Bauer saw I use now for general utility. Tracksaws tend to be "plungers" because of their nature.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I used a Bosch 'drop foot' saw at the farm for a while. It was somewhat unsafe because the guard would stick open, and the switch was dodgy, and the shoe mechanism was so worn that it slopped around a bit when cutting and made it hard to follow a line, so I finally scrapped it. We had a DeWalt then too that was much better, and when I was getting ready to move I bought a new Makita 5007 that I am very happy with.

[Ron Selzer]

I learned on a Porter Cable 6 1/2" drop foot saw and then went on to a variety of saws, cheap to contractor grade, as I had more money to spend, and burned up saws needed replaced. Finally tried a worm drive saw and never looked back. I use side winders from time to time if I don't have one of my worm drives around. Yes, I would prefer a drop foot to a swivel, however for me the worm drive trumps all. I have multiple of 7 1/4, 8 1/4 and 10 1/4 worm drives. Want a 16 worm drive and some day will have one just because. I have no desire to go back to 6 1/2 saws.
Ro

[Brian Tymchak]

Another vote for the corded Milwaukee circ saw and drills. I use the circ saw to cut down rough lumber. It's got some serious torque.... as does the 1/2" drill.. It easily goes thru 8/4 Ash.

[Ray Selinger]

As a carpenter, I worked industrial form work so I cut a lot of plywood.We used Skil 77s on a dam project, as often to cut steel coil rod as wood. It is impossible to cut a straight line free hand with a worm drive. We had to to resort to using a plywood edge. That's if we didn't want to hear the foreman giving us shit. I hate worm drives, besides having terrible balance they are left handed . Dangerous too if you are right handed, it puts you that blade next to your leg. Skilsaws are not fully trained, they do jump around . The old # 534 Skilsaw had great balance, but Skil is long gone. I was contracting and my dainty little # 554 Skilsaw died so I picked up a industrial Milwaukee. The real US made one. The Milwaukee stripped it's gears in the cold. So much for quality. In those days they had a lifetime warranty. Off it went. So I picked up a Makita #5007 to replace it. The balance of the Makita was the same as the Skil 534 . Those Makitas are the most loved saws around here by far. Used they bring the best price. I ended up with two Skilsaws, not a bad thing if you are carpenter. Though I left the trade for millwrighting I still used them around home. Oddly enough roughly at the same time the housings wore out. With the Milwaukee, it was no parts available, but the Makita was rebuilt. I replaced the Milwaukee with a cheap Chinese made one which I use for rough work . I don't care for it. I have used Porter Cables, Rockwells, B&D Sawcats. I think one of those Porter Cables was used on the Ark. B&Ds are now yellow and called DeWalts. But my favourites were the Skil #534s . The Makita ,while plastic , balances the same.

[Tom M King]

I have had, and still have some of all of them, including the drop foot saws from the '60s and '70s. To me, a worm drive is not an all purpose saw. My all time favorite is the Porter Cable 347, 743, and 447. They're a lightweight 15 amp circular saw with the metal being magnesium. The 347 is a right blade. The 743 is an exact mirror image left blade. The 447 is a right blade copy of the 347 but it includes a brake. They all have an adjustable chute to direct sawdust in the direction you want that works pretty good.

I use the 447 only for vertical cuts like rafter ends in place. It's supported by my left hand which also holds the blade guard open. My right hand holds the handle backwards with my ring finger operating the trigger. The blade stops when I release the trigger. Otherwise, I can't think of any other time the kick from the brake is okay, but want it when I'm standing on a scaffold plank in that use.

These saws have a newer model since they stopped making them that I don't like as much.

You can still find them for sale on CL, ebay, and such, but generally go for almost as much, and sometimes even more, than they cost when they were new. I've bought several like new ones for 50 bucks each off CL, when I could find them, as backups. Since first intending them as backups, I now keep different blades on three of the 347s for different uses.

I have a number of other sizes, but see no need to go into their sizes and uses for this discussion. One cuts thick metal. One cuts thin metal. Numerous others for different wood thicknesses.

[Warren Lake]

why cant you cut a straight line with a worm drive. As long as I dont use thin blades which I dont worm cuts fine.

[Edward Weber]

I think part of the issue with worm drives is that they're not balanced and not recommend for one hand use.
Originally made for the torque achieved via the gear reduction, I don't really think they're as necessary these days as they once were. These days, for most general construction tasks, a good quality sidewinder has more than enough power in a smaller, better balanced form factor.
I know many can't say enough about them but I'm with Ray.
I do own a Skil 77HD but it's not my favorite tool by far, I prefer my Milwaukee sidewinder.

[Paul McGaha]

I run a Skil #367. It’s a 6 1/2” worm drive saw. A little smaller and lighter than the Skil #77. I used it mainly to break down plywood. It’s around 20 years old. I like it a lot. I don’t know what I’d buy if I had to replace it.

Good luck with it.

PHM

[Cameron Wood]

I have three of these, & they all have the rafter hook. Gets used for rafters once in a while, but mainly it makes it so the saw can stand on it's nose, vastly reducing the number of times bending over to pick it up. This one sporting it's latest new (~20') cord. Cordless saws get used as well, but this is still the thing for framing and ripping lumber.

509616

I did also use this a week ago to cross cut 6x12s.

509617

[Edward Weber]

I did also use this a week ago to cross cut 6x12s.

509617

I just got finished rehabbing one of those, now I think I need to make a nice box as well. It's a bit unwieldy on it's own, when not in use.

[Cameron Wood]

I just got finished rehabbing one of those, now I think I need to make a nice box as well. It's a bit unwieldy on it's own, when not in use.

Yes, this saw does not want to be dropped or kicked around. This one came in it's original cardboard box- a gift from a client. It belonged to his Dad. I used paste wax on the blade, which I think helps.

[Tom M King]

I've had one of those since I bought it new in the late 1970s. The best blade I've ever had on it is an Oshlun. Not only does it cut true, it leaves a surface like a new Forrest blade on a table saw. I highly recommend it for the 16-5/16" saw. I made some compound angle cuts on 4x6's that came out perfect and pretty. I think this was the first model number. It still works perfectly.

[Edward Weber]

I got mine at an auction for a good deal. It had been sitting somewhere wet for a while. Everything needed to be cleaned and checked. A bearing, a seal, some screws, and about $50-$60 of parts later, not counting a blade.
I am a Freud guy, so...
509679509680

[Phillip Mitchell]

I’ll jump in here with my Makita beam saw. I apprenticed in a timber frame shop for about 5 years and always had several of these and other large circ saws around. What I learned is that there are a few different aftermarket aluminum shoes/baseplates (made by other timber framers usually) that vastly improve the accuracy and stability of the big beam saw. I’ve seen a few different variations on the same theme. The OEM makita baseplates are pretty flimsy and weak, IMO and are the big achilles heel of an otherwise great saw.

Here’s a not great pic of one that I picked up for cheap a few years back with the nice baseplate. The aluminum is 3/8” thick on this one. I have a hard time picking up a beam saw without it having this type of base on it anymore, though I am not timber framing much these days. Still need a new blade on this one…

[Tom M King]

I remember seeing those bases, and thought about getting one, but I get by fine with the stock base. I'm lightening up on the saw most of the time when I'm using one anyway. If I used it every day, it would probably be different, but mine goes years at the time between uses. The last use, the legs that old house are sitting on was the last use in 2018.

[Warren Lake]

I know ive changed bases on other saws past. One was my original Makita barrel jig saw. Base on the original bent very easily so remember buying a heavier base after telling them the original was not strong enough. Replacement was much better.