Tormek Jig Setting for Bowl Gouge

[Jim Young]

Just got the Tormek jig for gouges and am getting ready to do my first sharpenning. Just wondering what angle, jig setting and protrusion others have found to cut well. I know it's all about personal feel, but I would like to have something to compare to. The more experienced turners can tell when the tool is cutting better, I'm not that far yet.

[Jim Young]

Oops, I meant to put this in the turners forum.

[Allen Bookout]

I am not a turner but because of your thread I read throught the instructions in the Tormek handbook and I remember seeing the video about sharpening turners tools. All that I can say is "Man is that complicated". No wonder that I have stayed away from turning. You guys have my respect. Allen

[Jeff Farris]

Just got the Tormek jig for gouges and am getting ready to do my first sharpenning. Just wondering what angle, jig setting and protrusion others have found to cut well. I know it's all about personal feel, but I would like to have something to compare to. The more experienced turners can tell when the tool is cutting better, I'm not that far yet.

Well, are you trying to match up a side grind that you already have on a gouge? Or, are you taking a square grind gouge and side grinding it for the first time? The approach is different for each scenario.

If you are matching an existing shape, look at the chart and find the one closest to what you have. That is a good starting point. The chart is based on a protrusion of 2-1/2 inches. Set your jig according to the chart and match the existing bevel to the grindstone as closely as you can. Roll the tool around and make sure that the bevel lays uniformly on the stone all the way around. It is not likely to be perfect, but very close is nice. You can tweak the jig setting and bevel angle to get closer, but leave the protrusion alone, so that future sharpenings will match up better.

If you are starting out from Ground Zero, both in grinding the tool and using it at the lathe, I would suggest the following procedure. Instead of trying to create a moderate or long side grind all at once, do it in stages. Set your bevel angle for about 55 degrees, use a 2-1/2 inch protrusion and, for the first grinding, set the jig to #2. Lay on the sides and work them down aggressively. When the sides get close, start rotating the gouge in smooth swings, stopping when the gouge is horizontal with the axis arm. A #2 is not much of a back grind, but it should shape up fairly quickly, and some experience at the lathe with this shape will get you ready for more cutting surface. Use that for a couple of sharpenings, then adjust the jig to #2-1/2 or #3 and pull the grind back a bit further. After a few more sharpenings, step it up again. Somewhere around #3-1/2 or #4 I think you'll find a shape that with which you'll get very comfortable.

This gradual approach has several advantages. First, you won't have to spend an extended session at the grinder, like you would if you try to pull the sides back all at once. Second, you'll have a chance to get a better feel for how the tool works with variations of the width of grind. And, last but not least, you'll use the steel that would otherwise just be ground off and thrown away.

Personally, I like a bowl gouge with a bevel angle of 55 to 60 degrees and a moderate amount of side grind. My favorite bowl gouge shape is 2-1/2 protrusion, 55 degree bevel angle, and jig setting #4.

Contrary to comments in another current thread on the Turning forum, I think you will notice a distinct improvement in performance, finish, and edge life by grading the stone to the fine finish, refining the scratch pattern on the bevel, and deburring the tool with the leather honing wheel.

[tod evans]

jim, jeff, for what it`s worth, on all of my edge tools i finish the edge on a leather wheel charged with rouge..02 tod

[Ken Salisbury]

Oops, I meant to put this in the turners forum.

No problem - I moved it for ya :)


http://www.oldrebelworkshop.com/misc/moderator.gif

[Steven Wilson]

Jig setting depends on the bowl gouge. You'll even run into a few that go beyond the jigs marks or can't be readily ground with the jig. I have an Elsworth gouge that defies being ground properly with the Tormek jig, so I bought an Elsworth jig and rigged it to work on the Tormek. Anyhow, if I'm going to reshape a gouge I do that on a dry grinder and the Wolverine jig. Then when the shape is close I switch to the Tormek and use it to finish it off.

[Jeff Farris]

... I have an Elsworth gouge that defies being ground properly with the Tormek jig, ....

That's not quite right Steven. In fact, in the latest version of the Owner's Handbook has the precise formula for the Ellsworth gouge. Use a protrusion of 3 inches, set the jig past 5 (where 6 would be if there was a 6) and match the existing bevel angle. Those settings should exactly replicate the Ellsworth gouge.

You can download the most recent version of the handbook -- completely or by selected chapters -- from TORMEK's web site.

Jeff Farris
SharpToolsUSA

[Dennis Peacock]

That's not quite right Steven. In fact, in the latest version of the Owner's Handbook has the precise formula for the Ellsworth gouge. Use a protrusion of 3 inches, set the jig past 5 (where 6 would be if there was a 6) and match the existing bevel angle. Those settings should exactly replicate the Ellsworth gouge.

You can download the most recent version of the handbook -- completely or by selected chapters -- from TORMEK's web site.

Jeff Farris
SharpToolsUSA

Exactly correct Sir!!!! Thanks for posting.:D

[Steven Wilson]

That's not quite right Steven. In fact, in the latest version of the Owner's Handbook has the precise formula for the Ellsworth gouge. Use a protrusion of 3 inches, set the jig past 5 (where 6 would be if there was a 6) and match the existing bevel angle. Those settings should exactly replicate the Ellsworth gouge.

Jeff, I figured that out a couple of years ago because it's similar to what I use for a couple of other gouges and it was real close, but not exact. I ended up using the Ellsworth jig on a dry grinder to reestablish the factory grind and there is a slight difference in the wings. So I worked on a way of rigging up the Ellsworth jig to work with my Tormek. I prefer to use my Tormek jig(s) set to what I normally use and then just use the Ellsworth jig with the rig I've set up for it to sharpen the Ellsworth gouge. The Ellsworth jig is fairly cheap so why not use it :)