Sorry, another SawStop question

[Ken Pywell]

Just wondering if a router can be mounted to the 36" table, given the door on the right side. Is there enough room? Thanks.
Ken

[Jim Becker]

Never be sorry about asking any kind of question... ;) (I can't answer yours, but wanted to mention that....and welcome to SMC!)

[Tom Ruflin]

Ken,

I just made some very very quick measurements on my sawstop with 36" fence and based on dimensions from my router table it would not fit. To make it work you would have to place the router near the side of the table and still be able to open the door. It would leave about 8 inches from the side of the table to the router bit. Again these were very quick measurements.

[Ken Pywell]

Thanks. I was thinking about that and debating if the 52" table would be better. I don't need the longer table, but it would take up less real estate if the router were in there versus a separate router table.
Ken

[David Giles]

It works better to mount the router on the left side of the Sawstop. Their is an access door, but it is only for the belts (if I understand correctly) and is rarely accessed. Plus it give one access to the router from the front and side, more like a router table.

[Ken Pywell]

Good point. Didn't I see someone here use an HF cast iron router table on their sawstop?
Ken

[Don Frambach]

I have a SawStop Saw with the 52" fence and mounted a router in the right side table . You do need to leave room for the motor cover to rotate out of the way. It would be possible to replace the hinges with a sliding mechanism to give more room but then you would only have access to the motor and sawstop mechanism when the saw was set to cut at 90 degrees. I thought about this change and decided that it wasn't right for me.

BTW I bought the SawStop right sided table but replaced it with a more substantial sheet of 3/4" phenolic. If you decide to mount a router, I'd suggest that you make your own table (and save the $99 cost of the table SawStop sells).

[Don Frambach]

The SawStop table is 30" deep so the 27" deep cast iron extensions that can acommodate routers will not fit without modification.

[Alan Turner]

The right side door on the SS is on a type of hinge where it can be opened, and then just lifted off, without having to swing too far. This is helpful to me as my out feet table has to be moved otherwise.

[John Russell]

Hello Don,
Do you have any images of your replacement table you could share?
Thanks,
John

I have a SawStop Saw with the 52" fence and mounted a router in the right side table . You do need to leave room for the motor cover to rotate out of the way. It would be possible to replace the hinges with a sliding mechanism to give more room but then you would only have access to the motor and sawstop mechanism when the saw was set to cut at 90 degrees. I thought about this change and decided that it wasn't right for me.

BTW I bought the SawStop right sided table but replaced it with a more substantial sheet of 3/4" phenolic. If you decide to mount a router, I'd suggest that you make your own table (and save the $99 cost of the table SawStop sells).

[David Mueller]

I would think if you used a router insert or lift, you could just lift out, open door, close door, reinsert. Seems simple to me :confused:

[Don Frambach]

I would think if you used a router insert or lift, you could just lift out, open door, close door, reinsert. Seems simple to me :confused:

Great idea! Didn't think of that!
Don

[Don Frambach]

Here's some photos of my SawStop with a router installed in its' right extension:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/attach/jpg.gifhttp://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/attach/jpg.gifhttp://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/attach/jpg.gifhttp://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/attach/jpg.gif