festool 106" guide + system..

[Clyde Hunter]

getting ready to order the ts55 but have these questions:

as i will be using to make boxes, shelving units, etc., i need the longer rail (i.e. 106") has anyone ordered the ts55 plus xtra 55" rail and joined them? I am thinking about just ordering a separate 106" rail....."

is the accuracy sooooo good on this system to just cut and assemble.....ok to make kitchen cabinet boxes, drawers....?

[Ian Barley]

Clyde

I use two 1.4M rails which sounds like your length. They join rigidly and behave as though a single continuous length.

and yes - it really is that accurate as long as you nail the rail placement.

[Jim Becker]

Although I did buy the long guide, I also have the little joiner thingies for my two shorter rails and wouldn't hesitate to use them. Actually, I think that Frank Pellows (?) posted a picture of a short and a long one joined awhile back, if my memory isn't failing me. It was like 12' long and worked like a champ.

[Bob Marino]

Clyde,

It's what Jim and Ian stated. If storage, transportation and cost are issues, get the second 55" and 2 connectors. If they are not concerns and convenience matters (not that it takes more than a minute to mate the two rails together), get the 106".

Bob

[Dave Falkenstein]

I have joined two 55" Festool rails with no problem at the joint at all. I know there have been a small number of reports of issues with joined rails, but I think it has been blown WAY out of proportion with reality. The vast majority of Festool users at the Festool Owners Group Forum on Yahoo report no issue with joined rails. I think I have read of maybe two owners that had a problem. Worry not, the rails will join flawlessly. If you have room to store the long rail, and portability is not an issue for you, by all means get it.

[Clyde Hunter]

well...i think since i'm going to heavily rely on the accuracy of the festool system i will buy the t55 plus extra 106" rail. it should pay for itself in time saved and based on what i have read, is as accurate as the TS but easier to manage. thanks for the info.....

[John Stevens]

well...i think since i'm going to heavily rely on the accuracy of the festool system i will buy the t55 plus extra 106" rail. it should pay for itself in time saved and based on what i have read, is as accurate as the TS but easier to manage. thanks for the info.....

Clyde, I've got the FS2700, which is the 106" rail. I've checked the accuracy by using it to scribe a line, reversing it, then scribing another line. The variation from a perfectly straight line is so small I can't detect it, so I think you'll be pleased with the accuracy.

You may wannt to spend the extra $20 or $30 and get the FS3000 instead of the FS2700. When cutting an 8' sheet with the FS2700, you've got less than one foot extra length, so you need to be reasonably careful to leave enough overhang both front and back for the saw to be properly guided at the beginning and end of the cut. Otherwise, you may lose some materials and time if your cut gets "munged" at the beginning or end. The FS3000 is 118" long, so you probably wouldn't need to pay much attention to whether you've got enough overhang front and back. If the value of your time is important, that $30 or so will pay off over the life of the rail.

One final word of unsolicited advice--always use the anti-kickback stop on the rail. It takes one second to set in place, so it's cheap insurance against having the saw jump off the rail when you plunge it at the beginning of the cut. If that happens, it can damage the sheet, rail, blade, or all three. (Don't ask me how I know this.)

[Tyler Howell]

2) 55" and stylish carrying case.

[Rob Blaustein]

One final word of unsolicited advice--always use the anti-kickback stop on the rail. It takes one second to set in place, so it's cheap insurance against having the saw jump off the rail when you plunge it at the beginning of the cut. If that happens, it can damage the sheet, rail, blade, or all three. (Don't ask me how I know this.)
Hmm, I've used my new TS55 several times with the MFT1080, but I can't recall using an anti-kickback stop. WHat is that? Anyone have a pic handy, or the URL of it on the Festool site? I did have one occasion where the saw jumped off, and I'm not sure what I did improperly, so I'd certainly be willing to use any and all safety devices.

[Bob Marino]

Hmm, I've used my new TS55 several times with the MFT1080, but I can't recall using an anti-kickback stop. WHat is that? Anyone have a pic handy, or the URL of it on the Festool site? I did have one occasion where the saw jumped off, and I'm not sure what I did improperly, so I'd certainly be willing to use any and all safety devices.

Rob,

I think what John is referring to is the "Set-back stop" - which is included with the TS saw.

Bob

[Brad Evans]

Rob,

Take a very close look inside the TS55 systainer. What looks like a spare knob is actually a stop that mounts on the rail. Kind of blends in with the black systainer insert.

The heel of the TS55 hooks underneath the rail-mounted stop. It's a pretty good safety practice when making plunge cuts.

[Bob Swenson]

We must have about 30 feet or more of the rail, comes in real handy for those
long ones. Straight as an arrow.:rolleyes:

[Rob Blaustein]

Rob,

Take a very close look inside the TS55 systainer. What looks like a spare knob is actually a stop that mounts on the rail. Kind of blends in with the black systainer insert.

The heel of the TS55 hooks underneath the rail-mounted stop. It's a pretty good safety practice when making plunge cuts.
So that's what that's for. Thanks Brad and Bob. Guess I should have read Rick Christopherson's manual a bit more carefully. I will start using it when possible.

[JayStPeter]

I think you're making the right decision buying a long rail. I have two 1400s. While it works well enough, I'll buy a long rail eventually. I do have a minor problem of a "speed bump" between the two rails. It doesn't have any effect on the cut, but it causes extra stress when making the cut. I need to get me one of those stops also ... yes, I have a shredded rail.

Jay

[Jesse Cloud]

I would get one 55 inch rail and a second one long enough to rip a full sheet of plywood. I have two 55'ers now and the connector. I works fine, but if you go back and forth between ripping and crosscuting it gets annoying to have to unscrew and rescrew the connector.
I could probably avoid going back and forth with better planning, but having a long one would be nice!

[Peter Stahl]

getting ready to order the ts55 but have these questions:

as i will be using to make boxes, shelving units, etc., i need the longer rail (i.e. 106") has anyone ordered the ts55 plus xtra 55" rail and joined them? I am thinking about just ordering a separate 106" rail....."

is the accuracy sooooo good on this system to just cut and assemble.....ok to make kitchen cabinet boxes, drawers....?

I made cabinets with a cheepo straight edge and a old circular saw with a new plywood blade with very good results. Wish I had the festool saw when I did them, would have done it a lot faster I'm sure. As far as the accuracy, it's how accurate you measure because this saw and straight edge set up will cut it straight and square. A TS55 is on my wish list!

Pete

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I use two rails joined together all the time, works like a charm...

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/jackpot/festool_1st_cuts4.jpg

LOVE that saw!

Cheers!