1982 Powermatic 60 Jointer Restoration

[Andrew Neuroth]

Hi Sawmill Creek, i'm in the process of purchasing a single owner 1982 Powermatic 60 8inch jointer (metallic gold, green racing stripe). This will be my first time working with a tool older then I am and hoping for any advice/recommendations.

First, all parts are original and i would say as a whole it is 99% rust free/very well taken care of but the cutter guard was removed and lost by the original owner. Does anyone know where I could look to try and find a replacement (I tried calling Powermatic, the earliest cutter guard they sell is for a 2000's era machine). Alternatively are these cutter guards pretty standard, could i replace with one of the red plastic ones that are sold today?

Second, if anyone has a similar machine i was wondering what kind of mobile base you are using and if you like it. I also will need to add a dust collection shoot and curious if anyone has a link to something they have used.

I am planning to touch up anywhere the paints is chipped, upgrade to a link belt and helical cutter head, any other modifications you would recommend?

Appreciate it, i am really excited to have a larger piece of equipment that is american made.

[Stephen Rosenthal]

Best bet for the cutter guard would be to post a WTB on www.owwm.org

If you’re not already a member you’ll need to join to access the classifieds (BOYD).

Can’t help you with the other stuff, but it sounds like you got a great machine.

[Bill Dufour]

My high school shop had a big jointer with no factory guard. Teacher had made a pork chop guard out of plywood and used a cable with counterweight to pull it closed..
BillD

[David Stone (CT)]

I agree with the suggestion that the Old Woodworking Machinery forum classifieds are your best bet for finding an actual OEM PM 60 guard. That said, I think there's a good chance a pork chop guard from another 8 inch jointer could work--the form factor of these machines is pretty similar and the guards are not very complicated. It seems like it should come down to if the mounting shaft on the guard matches the diameter of the mounting hole on your PM 60 (or could be made compatible) and that the spacial relationship between where the cutterhead is and where the guard mounting point sits are not so dissimilar as to put the guard in the wrong location. If this is true, maybe Grizzly or someone else has a suitable guard available as a spare part for one their 8 inch jointers.

Speaking of Grizzly and your question about mobile bases, I've had good luck with Grizzly's Bear Crawl mobile base. I've got one under a PM 26 shaper that is a just slightly younger cousin to your jointer.508032

[Andrew Neuroth]

I will try checking that out, thanks!

[Randall J Cox]

I have one of those exact machines. It was in excellent condition from the orig owner when I bought it some 10 years ago. Based on its age, I replaced the bearings in the cutter head and motor. I would never have one on wheels. I have mine dialed in to within a couple of thousandths of and inch and don't want it to move, least it goes out of tolerance. You have a great machine, congrats! Randy

[Andrew Hughes]

Never move a Dovetail way jointer by the ends of the table. Especially lifting
If the tables are flat and well aligned you want to do everything to keep it that way.
Wheels on a jointer seems like a dumb idea to me. I’ve heard a lot of people do it. The main reason they let their wife park the family sled in the wood shop.:)
Good Luck

[Russell Hayes]

dust collection shoot

I am planning to touch up anywhere the paints is chipped, upgrade to a link belt and helical cutter head



I bought a 1983 Model 60 a few months ago. Mine was in terrible condition from being stored in a leaky barn. I completely disassembled, derusted, cleaned, repainted, and reassembled. I can advise you on a couple of items.

Dust collection: the factory shoot is terrible with a dust collector, there are large openings on either side that lead to the motor cabinet. I would guess at least 50% of the suction is misdirected. I cut a piece of 1/2" ply for a tight fit side to side, then cut 45 degree bevels on either end. You have to cut an access hole for the single cabinet to machine base bolt. I sealed it all up with 3m hvac tape. Then purchase or fabricate a port, mine is 6" - bigger is better if your DC will support it.

Touch up paint: FORGET IT. PM touchup paint is a unicorn. Go over to OWWM and search. Paint the whole thing with something close or don't - but touchup without a match will look worse. I use Rustoleum 245221, it's a shade off but close enough for me. I took a piece of the old stripe to a local sign shop and they duplicated it for a twenty.

Motor: Highly recommend taking the motor apart, because of the poor dust shoot design the motor cabinet is a very dusty environment. My OE Marathon had injected a fair amount over the years. Definitely change bearings due to age.

Belt: IDK about segmented belts but I use Gates or Goodyear cogged whenever possible, mine took an AX52. Cogged are less prone to set on machines with small pulleys.

Overall I am very pleased with mine.

508059
508058
508060
508061

[Andrew Neuroth]

Hi Russell, this is super helpful, a couple follow up questions. How did you attach the 1/2 inch plywood to the roof of the dust chute? Just by taping it? It looks like you also switched to a paddle on off switch, i was thinking of doing the same, is that the Powertec verison?

Were the motor bearings something standard you were able to find easily? I'm planning on changing the cutterhead which would come with new bearings there at least.

Your touch up paint looks perfect btw!

[Andrew Neuroth]

You nailed it hah, i wish i could leave this in a permanent spot but working in half of a 2 car garage so this has to occasionally be moved out of the way.


Never move a Dovetail way jointer by the ends of the table. Especially lifting
If the tables are flat and well aligned you want to do everything to keep it that way.
Wheels on a jointer seems like a dumb idea to me. I’ve heard a lot of people do it. The main reason they let their wife park the family sled in the wood shop.:)
Good Luck

[Russell Hayes]

Hi Russell, this is super helpful, a couple follow up questions. How did you attach the 1/2 inch plywood to the roof of the dust chute? Just by taping it? It looks like you also switched to a paddle on off switch, i was thinking of doing the same, is that the Powertec verison?

Were the motor bearings something standard you were able to find easily? I'm planning on changing the cutterhead which would come with new bearings there at least.

Your touch up paint looks perfect btw!

Just HVAC tape, good HVAC tape lasts a long time. After you form the chute with the plywood there is a pretty big hole on the top left side I covered it in tape too.

The paddle switch was replaced before I got it. I don't see the necessity for a quick on off on Jointers. If you get your fingers in the way it will be too late by then to turn it off. Unlike a table saw where you could get into a bad spot and want to shut down, like the wood is closing on the blade.

Bearings are normal 99+% of the time, but the model 60 had several motor options. The only odd ball bearings I've ever run into on ww equipment was the arbor bearings on an old Unisaw. Just buy good ones like Timken or NGK. The bearing pn will be printed on the side of the old one.

[Andrew Neuroth]

Hi Randy, have any pictures of yours?

[Alex Zeller]

My much bigger Powermatic jointer has a mobile base made by Powermatic (in the US) as an option. The tables are supported by a big piece of cast iron in the center, not the cabinet it sits on. Doesn't bother me one bit to have one on a mobile base.

[Paul Haus]

Reading this, I have a comment or two. As was mentioned, you likely can find all the info you want on this jointer over at OWWM, there have been many threads on this model before. On the question of a mobile base, that IMO depends on what you plan to do and the layout of your shop. I have a Delta vs. a Powermatic, but the principles are still the same. My shop is spatially challenged so I had to be able to move my jointer. Additionally, I used to do a lot of flattening and edging heavy/long timbers. I made a mobile base as long as the beds of the jointer, plus bolted the jointer down to it. It made the machine substantially more stable when dealing with heavy stuff. The wheels are like 5" locking swivels, and I've been more than happy with them.
Good luck.

[Andrew Neuroth]

Russell, did your PM60 come with 2 belts hooked up? Guy i bought it from swears it came with 2 although the manual only shows one. What did you end up using?


Just HVAC tape, good HVAC tape lasts a long time. After you form the chute with the plywood there is a pretty big hole on the top left side I covered it in tape too.

The paddle switch was replaced before I got it. I don't see the necessity for a quick on off on Jointers. If you get your fingers in the way it will be too late by then to turn it off. Unlike a table saw where you could get into a bad spot and want to shut down, like the wood is closing on the blade.

Bearings are normal 99+% of the time, but the model 60 had several motor options. The only odd ball bearings I've ever run into on ww equipment was the arbor bearings on an old Unisaw. Just buy good ones like Timken or NGK. The bearing pn will be printed on the side of the old one.

[Russell Hayes]

One belt on mine, but PM used to offer several motor options (or no motor) for their machines. Mine is a 1.5 HP marathon single phase. Maybe 2HP got 2 belts IDK.