Dust Collection Questions

[Dave Richards]

Let me preface this post by saying that I know what I've got is far from ideal. I won't be installing a cyclone in the shop I'm in now so there's no point in suggesting I go that route.

I have a Jet 1.5HP DC with the canister filter. I'd like to park it in a corner and run ducting to it. The shop space is a typical two car garage sans cars.

Question #1: The inlet on the DC is 4" diameter. Can I get away with leaving it or do I need to find a new inlet thingummy with a 6" diameter connection?

Question #2: Would it be worth getting one of the cyclone garbage can lid separators and put a can in front of the DC to get the big chunks?

Well, answers to those questions should get me started. Thanks .

[David Duke]

I'm not a DC guru but if it were me I'd make my trunk run with 4"; as far as the cyclone garbage can lid while I have no experience with one the people I know that do say it works pretty well, I think for the minimal cost of one it would be worth it to try and cut down on the volume going into your collector.

[Rob Will]

This works really well for a chip collector.

Mount a 55 gal drum on the wall high enough to slide a garbage can below. Tangent with the outside of the drum, near the top rim, install a 4" inlet pipe. In the center of the top install a 6" suction pipe leading to your blower inlet. Let the suction pipe protrude into the drum by about 6".

Now here is where all of this becomes worth your trouble. Cut a hole in the bottom of the drum and install a large slide gate or a hinged door. To dump your chips simply slide the garbage can below and open the door.

Rob

[Bob Dodge]

Hi Dave,

A dc such as your Jet DC-1100, is capable of pulling a fair amount of air, as long as it's properly ducted. Location of the dc, can play a big factor as well. Selecting the proper pipe, depends on what you're trying to achieve in terms of your set-up.

If you want the maximum benefit from your dc, try to place it reasonably close to your largest air-requirement machine. For most small shops, that's your table-saw. Your dc will easily draw 800 cfm through a 6" pipe hooked up to that saw, but it has to be kept "short", and "straight". In other words, no elbows if possible.

By running that 6" pipe to the saw, you can use a 6x6x6 wye on the "main", close to the saw. One 6" branch will serve the saw, and the other 6" branch, will be the continuation of your "main", to the other machines. There is absolutely no reason to have to rise to the ceiling directly "AT" the dc inlet, then back down to your saw. You can "rise" from the saw. You'll have a much more laminar flow into the impeller, by staying horizontal to that 1st machine.

Now, the saw's 6" branch, can further be split with a 6x4x4 wye. Run a 4" pipe to the base of the saw, then run the other 4" branch, to an overarm blade-cover. The's OABC's will do a terrific job at reducing airborne waste. I've seen many who've made their own, and done a terrific job.

Now, to continue to your main to your other machines, you can either stay horizontal, or rise to the ceiling. If you do rise, go with 6" pipe for the riser, and the first elbow. Continue with 6" pipe to your next "drop". If that drop serves a pair of machines, such as a jointer/planer, you can use a single 5" drop-pipe to serve both machines. Simply split that drop-pipe with a 5x5x5 wye, and run 5" to each machine. At the top of that pipe, where it meets the ceiling-mounted main, come off that main with a full 6" elbow, NOT 5". And make it a 45 degree take-off. Reduce to 5" ONLY under that take-off. The full-diameter 6" elbow(take-off), will have less resistance than a 5" elbow. At the machines, use a blast-gate on both branches. This would be an "either/or drop"

That takes care of your three "majors". If you'd like to continue your main to other small machines, reduce the main from 6" to 5", then continue your run to the next "drop". Come off that 5" main with a full-diameter elbow (5"). If you have to reduce to 4" for your smaller machines, do so from under that 5" take-off. Use smooth-walled pipe for the drop-pipe, and use flex ONLY where absolutely necessary. Don't connect that flex to the vertical drop-pipe. Use a smooth-walled elbow at the bottom of that drop, and try to continue with smooth-walled pipe, as close as possible to your machines.

If you want to split that 4" drop for two or more machines, do so. Just put a blast-gate on both branches.

If you can avoid the ceiling-hung pipes altogether, you'll gain a lot more "reach" from your dc. There are also, all sorts of "tricks" you can use to squeeze more performance from your dc. Properly ducted and balanced, your dc should perform very well indeed.

Good luck,

Bob

[John Hemenway]

Dave, you might have the same DC I have. The connector, a black plastic thing with two 4" ports, comes off the fan housing and then you have one 6". I set up ducting using a couple of feet of 6" flex then 6" PVC up to the ceiling, across the garage (aka, shop), wye down to CMS, TS and end the run w/ 4" port for either jointer or planer, as needed. Other end of wye awaits extension to RAS and BS.

It's not a 3ph cyclone but it really SUCKS! :)

[Dave Richards]

Thank you to all for the comments. Lots to consider there.

John, I'll have to pull that thing off of there because I didn't remember that.