Centuro compact bandsaw (600) guide questions

[andrew whicker]

I picked up this bandsaw a bit ago and am finally checking it out. I didn't really do a close inspection because these don't come up too often near me anyway and it was coming from a working woodshop where the guy recently retired.

Annnyyyyyway,

The blade flutters like crazy. Put a new blade still does it. The upper guide especially looks homemade on the mounting system. I'm wondering if that's part of it. The lower guide has bad pads that need to be replaced as well


Can someone post photos of oem / proper aftermarket guides? There's something that seems wrong about this... but I'm not sure what the proper solution would be exactly.

I guess I'll have to buy a tension meter because the one on the machine isn't accurate ? Something isn't working right.

The blade runs against the axial bearing and I can't back it up. Normal for this size machine ?

[andrew whicker]

Photos below

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[Kevin Jenness]

Can you post some more photos showing how the side guides and backup guide are related? I can't see how they adjust fore and aft.

Where is the blade running on the wheels? If the tires are flat, as on many Italian saws, the teeth should hang off the front of the tire which should allow for some space between the back of the blade and the bearing.

[andrew whicker]

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[andrew whicker]

The axial is controlled by an Allen set screw. But it can't go backward anymore because it runs into a slotted piece that then bolts to the sandwich pieces that hold the assy onto the vertical shaft.

I'll make a video and load it to YouTube

[Kevin Jenness]

You might look at moving the slotted bracket on which the guides are mounted behind the vertical guide post. It looks like the horizontal rod connected to the guide assembly might be long enough for that. Or you might be able to grind the notch in the backup bearing rod deeper.

[Bill Dufour]

I wonder if he replaced the axial bearing with a thicker one. The OD is not critical just the ID. Of course there may be a bushing inside the ID. The upper housing looks like a die casting. So not homemade.
Is there a wheel on the axial bearing or just the outer race touching the blade back?
Bill D

[Tom M King]

I’ll look at mine tomorrow.

[andrew whicker]

Here you go

https://youtu.be/llugVTKRYL4?si=-QJr6BqKqrnOzOdD

[Lloyd McKinlay]

Perhaps nosing around sites that sell replacement systems might answer a few questions https://guidekits.com/product/centauro-600/

[Jacques Gagnon]

Andrew,

Here are a few photos of the assembly that was installed on my Minimax S400P. I believe the bearing assembly is the same for the 400, 500 and 600 machines but this may need confirmation.

The assembly bolts onto a plate that sits on the lower part of the saw’s post. The mount that is currently installed on your saw appears to provide you with limited adjustment when compared to the system used on my machine.

With regard to flutter of the blade, have you looked at the tires? I experienced a similar symptom a few months ago and installing new tires solved the problem.

Regards,

Jacques

[Kevin Jenness]

I believe the guides were set up incorrectly to start with, perhaps as an aftermarket add-on. Those appear to be Carter guides, an upgrade from the standard Centauro guides, with a crude (though probably stock from Carter) adapter bolting the guide to the vertical post. The slotted plate probably should be mounted behind the guide post as it is on my Centauro MiniMax 16, which will allow the axial bearing more travel. The former guy probably notched the axial bearing shaft for more (but not enough) travel.

The slotted bracket allows for adjusting the side guides parallel to to the blade. The side and axial guides should be replaced or trued up. If they are in fact from Carter you should be able to get replacements there. The guides should be close to but not quite contacting the blade when not under cutting stress. The "flutter" you are experiencing may be generated by the rough surface of the axial bearing. Try moving the blade forward enough to lose contact with the bearing and see if the blade runs true, or remove the bearing. A properly tensioned wide blade may not even need a backup bearing.

The threaded hole on the outside (right side) of the guide casting should have a grub screw to set the axial guide depth instead of the one on top of the casting. The one on the left side adjusts the depth fore and aft of the side guides and the bolt is a retrofit. If the casting is aluminum the original grub screw may have stripped out from overtightening and the hole rethreaded. You may have to rig up a different lower attachment point for the blade guard if you mount the casting behind the guide post.

[Bill Dufour]

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?274053-Centauro-CO-600-blade-tension-and-guide-questions
http://www.targetmanufacturing.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Centauro-CO600-700-800-900-Bandsaw-Manual-Parts-List.pdf

[Erik Loza]

OP, several things to unpack here:

First, is the blade truly fluttering (lateral movement) or is it pulsating (back-and-forth movement WITH the direction of the cut)? If it’s fluttering, then that is a blade tension issue. If it’s pulsating, then either your blade has a bad weld (most common cause, even among multiple blades) or one of the tires is SEVERELY damaged (extremely unlikely on this particular machine). You will want to be assessing all this with the guides either completely backed away from the blade or entirely removed from the machine.

Next, those are Carter Zefyr guides:
https://carterproducts.com/band-saw-products/band-saw-guides/micro-precision-model-20/micro-precision-model-20

They look complete to me, except that there is normally a machined steel block that bolts that bolts directly to the muzzle of the guidepost, to which the whole guide assembly is mounted. If I were guessing, that particular part went missing at some point and the previous owners did that “muffler-clamp” type fix you have, now.

Based on all this, I see a couple of options. The first would be to simply modify the existing hardware you have there. For example, you could pull that thrust bearing, shorten the shaft and re-cut that notch with an angle grinder pretty easily. Assuming the thrust bearing still spins freely, you could lap the face on some wet-dry sandpaper to remove the scarring. I personally wouldn’t worry about the side guides. On a saw this size, with the blades you will be running, blade tension is doing all the cutting. The guides are really not doing much beyond preventing excessive overtravel.

The other option would be to see if you can machine a steel or aluminum block to duplicate the missing part. Then, you would have full articulation. Here is a photo of the block:

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Hope this helps and best of luck. That’s a great saw.

Erik

[Tom M King]

I took some pictures of mine. Sorry if they're not upright here. I'll correct them later if you need them. This is with a 1" blade. Position of the arm is as it came here, so beyond that, I don't know. It works great.

[Tom Trees]

Not able to see if it's got the more common foot mounted motor on the machine,
but could it be possible it got a knock?
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You could check alignment in both axis, i.e in-line with being coplanar with the frame,
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And in-line with the upper wheel. (more on this later)

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Presuming the tires are indeed in good nick, (something which could likely be the issue)
and all else fails, it's still easy with a Centauro.

To check alignment with surety, here's the only method that might be the fix, (should all else fail)
You'd need to check if the bearings were sound, and not loose by a good hands on look at things,
and only then you could check if the wheels were within tolerance to be aligned

I didn't think I'd need to do this, and chased my tail for a long time thinking the face of the wheels were accurate.
An old saw rigged up to tram the wheel faces...
(Use masking tape to protect from scuffing with the clamp)
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Mark where you can hear it
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Custom handle the right height, draw filed, with a fine file or it'll leave ridges,
I suspect a diamond hone could be done after.
You'd need to get the error at least as good as 0.2mm, as 0.5mm will not give a reliable reading, what would translate to around 4mm discrepancy on the line drawn on the base.
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Spot filing will get you there, doesn't take long, I tried other methods which I won't get into.

Then you could be sure of alignment
The length of the accurately planed up timber is dictated with the chassis, pictured below is 640mm for my saw (not quite a Centauro) the thickness needing to be, say 1 1/4" thick for the beam to clear the waist section. (whatever that might be with the CO600)
It's 92mm wide for easy registration of the long aluminium spirit level with milled edge.
That is preferable for the wheels, and just about do-able for the motor pulley also, (t'would be nice if one timber would do it all) but....
a length of the same width stock, perhaps an inch thick or whathaveyou, but longer to fit within the chassis, being preferable to balance on the pulley, which might also benefit from being "dropped down" to a lower point (and cinched back up again) for balance sakes to draw a steadier line.
(I'll post another photo of that below, as the picture count is maxed out.)

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Here's the other end with the pen (can't fit it all into one picture)
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[Tom Trees]

That's the line drawn from the upper wheel...
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Then you can adjust the lower bandwheel to match.
Checked from both sides of the wheel to see if the lines are parallel with the upper wheels datum line.
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Photo of the pen in a block, (and not a pencil!)
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So that would be needed to be done before the motor, (should there not be witness marks for the motor mounts, if it's got a knock)




Forgot to add a piccy of sighting down the drive belt to check pulley depth, doubtful of that being an issue.
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Should that be all good then it's setup thereafter...

Machine levelled in both axis, you'd need to do it elsewhere on the column with a Centauro,
Make the blocks for stabilizing the lines, taping them onto the machine would do rightly.
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The upper wheel has carriage adjustment in regards to being it being scooted plumb, or otherwise,
and the depth of the upper bandwheel within the chassis is also adjustable for co-planar, hence the third plumb line.
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With upper bandwheel being already aligned plumb, (this line is stabilized with both bolt heads)
this little shim will make sure the lower wheel is co-planar, which will make things smoother for the drive belt.
Don't pinch the shaft when doing adjustments, and best done without tension either.
That means having either an east OR a west jacking bolt loosened to adjust north or south for co-planar,
and vice-versa for matching the fixed orientation of the upper wheel, (the datum)

Normal practice is to have either orientation locked off and never moved, painted red I've read on some of those machines,
whilst the opposites loosened for belt changes or whatnot.
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That job'ill put manners on any machine with good tires.

Worth noting the crown on Centauro CO600 is 17.5mm in from the front,
as the tires if the replaceable type being 37mm wide, meaning the apex is 1mm closer to the front.
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All the best with your new machine.

Tom

[andrew whicker]

I really appreciate all the feedback! I'll have to read the one above in detail after I'm done working.

For now, here is a video on the blade flutter: https://youtu.be/HTWi9O13zu8?si=rdiJOQe5XoJT_S2f

[Tom Trees]

You should be able to detect if there's vibration regarding your motor with the blade removed, there shouldn't be any.
Looks like the belt is tensioned enough as is to tell you, i.e not sluggish to start.

I can't add more photos to my above post, but here's the preferable length of timber to register off the pulley, (ignore the pencil)
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And in-case others might be interested, a photo of a good solution if it's the case of the shaft being proud from the pulley...
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And once again worth noting the crown of these tires likely being an issue, (must look closer at your video to see if they're vulcanized)
Highly likely someone may have been tracking blades on centre of the wheel, and not the crown, which removed the camber profile
from the upper wheel, so the blade is having to ride on and off from a flat profile to a crowned one.


Silly me went to lots of effort thinking I'd get a flat profile to work, as I didn't look at the spare tire properly
what appears like a flat profile until stretched and supported

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Big difference when stretched.
If you don't have camber, then you will experience serious lack of "beam tension" and the blade will instantly start rubbing off the thrust guide(s)
and near refuse to cut, so you might need to pay some attention to the tires, either dressing them if vulcanized or replacement if it takes those flavour,
(as seen in Sam Blasco's old MM16 video)
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Those guides look to be the Zephyr type, I guess there would be parts available, as others have mentioned.

Tom

[Kevin Jenness]

Your video with guides removed seems to show a lot of side to side movement of the blade. Have you tried adjusting the tension? Is there any damage to the tires? Are the wheels out of round? Start with the tension adjustment.

[Erik Loza]

Your video with guides removed seems to show a lot of side to side movement of the blade. Have you tried adjusting the tension? Is there any damage to the tires? Are the wheels out of round? Start with the tension adjustment.

I’m with Kevin, here. That looks like a classic under-tension issue. Also, there is an irregular metallic noise that sounds like the back of the blade kissing the face of a thrust bearing. Are we 100% that the bottom guide is backed away enough?

OP, is it possible that your blade(s) are too long? The on-machine tension guages are not very accurate but usually, they are not that close to looking maxed-out.

Erik

[andrew whicker]

I wondered about blade length myself... they came with the saw. However I am tensioning so hard that I can barely turn the tension wheel. The blades are 14 ft 11.5 inches (179.5 inches / 4559 mm)

Both guides were completely removed for that video. No thrust bearings at all.

I took the blade off and I can wobble the top wheel. Bottom wheel is solid.

I did some rough measurements and my min blade length is around 176.5 inches and max is around 183.25 inches. So good there

[andrew whicker]

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?274053-Centauro-CO-600-blade-tension-and-guide-questions
http://www.targetmanufacturing.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Centauro-CO600-700-800-900-Bandsaw-Manual-Parts-List.pdf

Thanks much! Looking at the parts now

[andrew whicker]

The blade is 1" x 1 mm thick. From a manual online, it looks like the mfg recommends a max of 0.6 mm.

Maybe that's part of the issue? I can't tension it high enough?

[Tom Trees]

I took the blade off and I can wobble the top wheel. Bottom wheel is solid
Here's hoping you mean tilt, and not wobble
and if so, hoping things might have loosened regarding the carriage, (might need to cut out damaged bolts instead of forcing things damaging threads)
I needed repair one side, and the left side coulda got sorted also, but instead added nuts to the inside to strengthen.
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Here's hopefully not what you mean?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypbRAmWQVTo

Tom

[andrew whicker]

I think the bearing is tight and I'm just feeling the tracking wobble.

There is a tear in the upper wheel track (rubber band) and the machine came with an extra so maybe installing the new one will get rid of the issue

[Erik Loza]

Andrew, the upper wheel should be able to rock fore and aft when there is no blade mounted. The entire yoke assembly sort of rests in a cradle created by the frame.

I would definitely replace that upper tire. Curious to know if that changes the blade behavior.

Erik

[andrew whicker]

Replaced the tire. Bearings were tight, probably need to be replaced at some point. Felt a little grungy.

I took out the sacrificial wood piece to get rid of the knocking noise. I just kept tightening to get rid of the flutter and suddenly the flutter became a lot worse. So maybe I stretched the blade? Sigh.

I'm lost at this point.

[Erik Loza]

Weird… Would be a first, but I wonder if the tension spring is shot? Also, I would just buy a few new blades. Timberwolves have always worked well for me on Centauros.

Erik

[andrew whicker]

I was just reading the manual and it says the teeth should be overhanging the wheels slightly. The blade on mine is thoroughly on the rubber pad. I didn't think about that. Maybe it's as simple as letting the teeth sit off the rubber tires.

I just got home for lunch. I don't have a ton of time to keep messing with this today, but if it's that simple I'll give it a shot.

[Tom Trees]

New tires that quick, which I'm guessing was just a single Centauro CO 600 replacement, for the crown to match the lower one.
If so...
I'm guessing the rear bearing journal might be more worn than the front is, (I swapped my wheel around back to front to see if it were more prominent
but still was difficult to tell.)
What I did notice was my bearing spacer was worn, but that ain't likely on a CO being steel,
these machines seem less forgiving than some others with plastic spacers.

Bore wear might be very evident with the shaft removed from the carriage along with the wheel at the same time.
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There should be no wriggle
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I had to repair my rear journal, and in doing so, made the front a bit loose aswell.
It's possibly likely to be able to hear a groan and possibly a thunk sound when wheels coming to a halt, if so.
I test ran the machine with the rear speedi sleeve like fix, and it still ran pretty much without any blade movement.
Just sayin, I reckon the wheels or motor is outta whack, if there isn't obvious wear and the tires be the specified ones.

Tom

[andrew whicker]

I took the upper wheel off to replace the tire and the bearings felt pretty good. A bit rough, but otherwise good.

So yeah, maybe something is going on with the drive wheel. I don't know. I hope I just put the blade on wrong (without the teeth protruding past the rubber).

[Tom Trees]

With that honkin blade, doubtful.
I found a 3/4" blade to be about the maximum for my tests, as you don't want to foul the teeth against the timber.
I'd think nothing of sliding out the shaft to see, with it in mind.
Worth tramming the wheels to check them,
BTW that tape on the wheels was there in effort to find something noticeable,
and possibly come in handy during fixing the bore, but which didn't turn out to be of any use.
Though one possibly could use it for keeping track of things, even just for inspection,
and as I mentioned earlier, 0.5mm of discrepancy will show up with the beam.
Even a short strip of tape would show this up, by picking various sections of the wheel and an inch long line.
I didn't attempt to sort dressing the wheel faces without being sure the upper wheel were solid though.
as you would be surprised the amount of play the shaft can have, compared to not being evident whilst on the machine.


Beware if adjusting the lower wheel without going with my tedious methodology,
and if unsure, yet going ahead blindly, i.e as per a few manuals I can think of...
that yer drive belt(s) is/are not tensioned properly, (loose that is) as should the motor not be a foot mount type (which I guess it is)
or it's cinched down real tight, then the motor bearings will likely get damaged if out of alignment by a fair amount.
I learned that the hard way, not getting results due to my tires possibly throwing things off.

You'd be best mentioning if it is an official Centauro butyl type rubber or something entirely different i.e urethane or something else with a
crown on centre, and not 17.5mm from the front.

and PS I'd not be keen on running it for no good reason, as those wheel bearings might get loose, as that's quite a bit of movement TBH
(which I've experienced with differing tire profiles)

[andrew whicker]

I re trued the upper wheel, new tire, another new blade.

I'm not quite sure. It seems like it as good as it gets for the time being. It is a 3 H toothed blade and it looks like it would leave pretty rough cuts anyway.

I'll have to check it out w a different blade before I commit to full on disassembly. If that yields similar results I'll do all the things. I will probably go ahead and replace the bearings on both wheels.

[Tom Trees]

You'll damage the set of the blade running the saw like that, though it'll still run well on the wheels,
Worth noting the wider the blade, the more you may notice all that,
well that's the case for 3/4" blades anyway,
hence my my scathing comments regarding troubleshooting, like using a narrow blade to check things,
or trial and error...
I can add my earlier attempts with the beam and rule to that, as my findings showed that up to have a possible discrepancy of 4mm
and depending on someone elses wheels what might be worse.
Though worth mentioning did run quite well on the wheels, and even so with just the one repaired journal,
(with a loose drive belt)
Either way still likely to cause damage.

You'll be risking damage or further of the wheel bore, by winging it,
and I certainly wouldn't be tempted to run it again as is!

Not sure what you might be expecting from another blade, if it's new, and the weld is OK then it should be good.

You can buy bearing seating compound what might work, but only if the wear is very minimal.
Worth noting there's a few threads concerning that, which is up to speculation regarding why that is,
metal bearing spacers being my guess, but then again they've got the heaviest wheels in the business, so there's that too.
I ended up doing similar to my saw, as it turned out that the inner/outer races from the old Koyo bearings were a perfect fit to make spacers from,
(The Centauro plant being about 10 miles from where my machine were made, and having a differing system)

Worth a mention the fit of those bearings will be very tight when half drawn out from the bore,
as they would only be loose where they were in the wheel, so just incase you might have got that impression.

Erik would be able to give a bigger picture on how many machines he's dealt with which needed new bearings,
of the few machines I've read needing attention to the wheel bores, the bearings seemingly were in good nick,
so quite likely those machines never had a long service life, well maybe so before the bearings might have been changed?
what likely would have been pre internet times, and still original ones, so likely not really.

You need mention if it's actually a Centauro tire you've got?
Guessing so, as I've not read of anyone filling in the groove in a Centauro wheel before.

Good luck
Tom

[Tom Trees]

I forgot to mention, a potential test for those who don't wish to find out if their bearings were a sound fit in the upper wheel,
this and seeing what the results showed on even the bandsaw table, would be a non destructive easy test you could do,
and of use to someone with damaged vulcanized tires they wish not to remove...

Expose the OD of the wheel at the back, (there are some Centauro's with real rubber)
More lifting say's you!

(Edit: Machine unplugged, and not run, this is only to see if the bore is cylindrical)
Though also worth mentioning it could've also been the straw which broke the camels back by doing so.! :rolleyes:
which might well make the difference between using the Loctite bearing formula, or a significantly more expensive repair instead.
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And more trammery
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That's about all I can do for ya.
All the best

Tom

[Tom Trees]

I forgot to edit my above post in time, but wished to mention tramming the back of the upper wheel to check whether the bore is worn or the repair concentric..
One shouldn't be checking such with a blade installed, (sorry I don't have a piccy)
and also worth mentioning, shouldn't be possible even if the wheels were setup, on a machine which has the crown apex offset.
So that's two reasons not to do so, anyway, doesn't matter as the bore is seemingly in good nick when those bearings were replaced.
P.S, as I finally managed to get the footage onto utoob.
In order of operation...
Wheel prep
https://youtu.be/a27XQ1RD5vo?si=-7kBxjH2ksx80Y_-
Wheel alignment
https://youtu.be/JQCe8PhdX0k?si=nABlDGbiHEYjC0mP
Motor alignment
https://youtu.be/AXmMxGh7Js0?si=3QthfVRXU-wi3AIt
Test cut after crowning tires
https://youtu.be/xR_hD7x7K74?si=6OpdnwLpAk0GsbvV

Probably might irk some folk, who don't own a fully adjustable machine,
but my videos aren't intended for those who have it easy.
Sorry couldn't get a decent video of dressing tires with a crown, ala forward offset Centauro profile, but you might take some ideas from the threads and old videos,
with a rigged up plane iron to a block, regardless what you try, it needs to be rigid, and not freehand,
since you haven't checked if you've the luxury of being able to pretend freehand and leaving the apex of new tires alone,
and very unlikely that the apex is pristine, since the crown is offset, and the machine with original tires presumably, what was from the 80's,
so there's no getting away from that, should it still run rough, or distinctly lack beam tension after alignment.

Good luck
Tom
​

[John Lanciani]

I forgot to edit my above post in time, but wished to mention tramming the back of the upper wheel to check whether the bore is worn or the repair concentric..
One shouldn't be checking such with a blade installed, (sorry I don't have a piccy)
and also worth mentioning, shouldn't be possible even if the wheels were setup, on a machine which has the crown apex offset.
So that's two reasons not to do so, anyway, doesn't matter as the bore is seemingly in good nick when those bearings were replaced.
P.S, as I finally managed to get the footage onto utoob.
In order of operation...
Wheel prep
https://youtu.be/a27XQ1RD5vo?si=-7kBxjH2ksx80Y_-
Wheel alignment
https://youtu.be/JQCe8PhdX0k?si=nABlDGbiHEYjC0mP
Motor alignment
https://youtu.be/AXmMxGh7Js0?si=3QthfVRXU-wi3AIt
Test cut after crowning tires
https://youtu.be/xR_hD7x7K74?si=6OpdnwLpAk0GsbvV

Probably might irk some folk, who don't own a fully adjustable machine,
but my videos aren't intended for those who have it easy.
Sorry couldn't get a decent video of dressing tires with a crown, ala forward offset Centauro profile, but you might take some ideas from the threads and old videos,
with a rigged up plane iron to a block, regardless what you try, it needs to be rigid, and not freehand,
since you haven't checked if you've the luxury of being able to pretend freehand and leaving the apex of new tires alone,
and very unlikely that the apex is pristine, since the crown is offset, and the machine with original tires presumably, what was from the 80's,
so there's no getting away from that, should it still run rough, or distinctly lack beam tension after alignment.

Good luck
Tom
​

Let it go Tom. Your saw is a wreck and you are so far out in the weeds that you are needlessly making things difficult for those that actually need simple answers to simple questions.

[Tom Trees]

Care to play a game of spot the difference?, and if you can, explain why, ah now that's not very fair is it?
I've got pics of saws from all sorts of places around the world, with different lesser wheel spec than advertised.
Care to play a game of spot why the bores are worn, but the bearings aren't.
How about a listening game of what's wrong there.
Could answer where do you draw the line in regards to vibration.
Could suggest the new blades are going to get the set compressed, even without cutting as is.
Could give your opinion on "the flutter method"
Could give your opinion on tire profile, have you actually tried cutting with a similar machine with flat tires, I've got the footage, well half of the test,
Could point out why you think my method is flawed.

Or just say the answer to the troubleshooting Andrew is having, presuming you actually watched his video.

Nice try though,
Tom

[Tom M King]

I cut with my Centauro 600 that has flat tires all the time. When I replaced the tires, I never did anything after putting them on but put a blade on it and cut wood. I think I had some pictures on this thread earlier.

[andrew whicker]

I'm going to buy two new tires for both wheels next and see what that does.

Sigh. More buy and wait.

[Tom Trees]

IF you've got wheels with a groove, what takes the newer quick change type, then yea good idea.
Some of the old ones have this, but I'm not getting the impression of that and guessing they're vulcanized?
Eric would know better than anyone.
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Not a difficult job to dress tires, if you mark out the apex of the crown, unless one is still believing in the illusion of flat tires.
Heck even a plane iron would do really, and would amount to the same effort involved as scraping off old contact adhesive.
Then you gotta find a tire what would be suitable, (not sure if you care about cutting the tongue off, if going with new Centauro tires.
There's the urethane solution, though not sure how well those would stand up to 25000PSI, they might just become jelly.
Perhaps Carter might have something?, I'll let others mention options local to you.

Might have made my last dressing job a bit more faff than necessary, but I've done enough scraping with the sides of my plane irons,
and like trying new things.
Something like this rudimentary setup would get you there though, (just be very aware of wiping out the underside of yer cap iron when assembling again!)

Just use better clamps if doing so, a bigger block for easier rigging, some masking tape either side of the machine for the clamped areas,
and some plywood should something drop.

Oh and blade installed so the wheel doesn't tip, which is less of a problem with a straight scraper doing sections at a time.
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Going back to the square block, not sure if I posted this as the posts get all jumbled up,
but a more refined block in use is nicer to clamp
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A wedging action makes feeding nicer, in some sort of arcing fashion using the lip of the chassis for stability/fulcrum,
though with a straight scraper, there wont be much resistance atall compared to nearly the entire surface area.
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Might I add if deciding to glue the tires, then I suggest having that block to tram on the edge of it whilst installing,
coz if those wheels aren't the same as Tom's, which have an accurate alignment groove, then trusting the face of the wheels
could be creating two differing paths, which is what the blade will ride on, the same as the 4mm error I was getting when measured at the other wheel.

Lots of ways to dress tires, true tyres, or call it what you want, look on youtube, just don't bother with freehanders as your tires likely have damage of the apex of the crown.
If you look on the other threads concerning dressing bandsaw tires, you'd see lots of pics of the profile, which I've shown here somewhere.

Oh, and Just to finish off, perhaps some rough measurements of the Centauro tire?..
with the most unsettlingly cheap measurement device available! :p
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Tom

[Tom Trees]

Here's an interesting photo of a CO 450, which might be worth mentioning to anyone with a foot mounted motor,
I've not seen that before, should it be specifically for not altering the motor alignment?
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Tom

[John Lanciani]

Here's an interesting photo of a CO 450, which might be worth mentioning to anyone with a foot mounted motor,
I've not seen that before, should it be specifically for not altering the motor alignment?
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Tom

Or more likely, just to keep crap falling off the table from hitting the motor??? Nah, you're right; its more evidence of the great bandsaw motor conspiracy...

Maybe there's a big hole hacksawed in there and a mythical foot mounted motor lurking within!

[Tom Trees]

It surely looks like it's to stop stuff falling on the motor to me, though one would wonder why they wouldn't just build a outfeed table instead?

It's the older design, before they figured out it would be a good idea to weld a hub to allow, or better allow for the lower wheel adjustment.
That machine is badged Startrite also.
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It doesn't seem like they continued with that machine once they switched.

Tom