Bevel cuts on right tilt TS

[Ray Newman]

Colleagues: a while back, there was a link/thread to a shop fabricated right tilt table saw jig for cutting 45 degree bevels.

If I recall correctly jig was very simple and would not allow the cut off to be trapped against the blade and the fence and causing a kick back.

Believe the jig was similar to the Fine Woodworking (FWW) "Incredible L Fence" by Bob Van Dyke. Found the L fence FWW articles, but there was nothing about right tilt saw bevel cuts.

Just spent the better part an hour looking here, Google, DuckDuckGo and the FWW Archive trying to find it.

Appreciate any help.

[Doug Garson]

Is this what you are looking for?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPnXXcj9ueE

[Kent A Bathurst]

The rip fence works fine on the left side of the saw blade - as long as the workpiece fits on the shortened table.

[John TenEyck]

I posted one recently:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc86ZHWqYCSiWYDcpTDqNcy6JCx25-L3y5TMjMRgIGNBFbEUK5iPlT6r75uBBWVhuuTiI7jYv5K0m8T5 V4KPIXAhZ2e4ZOTBzGp-Co2WLz6qxVNh8W_7NEp6C24ibJaSZ3y01sZJ9JEdNyg-qmZPUIxlFQ=w1569-h885-s-no?authuser=0

[Ray Newman]

Doug G. and John T.: thanks! That's what I looked for. A friend has located a good price for 1990/91 right tilt Uni-saw. But he was told by a few that right tilt saw are dangerous and will kickback the cut off stock when cutting a bevel. Passed this information on to him. Again, thanks!

[Curt Harms]

The rip fence works fine on the left side of the saw blade - as long as the workpiece fits on the shortened table.

Some people set their fence so it's out a little bit to the right so less prone to push the work piece toward the back of the blade. In this case moving the fence to the left of the blade would cause a problem. My fence has slots on all 3 faces so I made a subfence that I can move back and forth to function as a European style short fence. I could move the fence to the left of the blade on a right tilt saw and can set the subfence so it doesn't trap the work between the fence and saw once cut.

[Doug Garson]

I have cut miters on a right tilt saw with the fence on the left but looking at the L fence idea I posted, I think it is a safer way and probably more likely to give a good result.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I have cut miters on a right tilt saw with the fence on the left but looking at the L fence idea I posted, I think it is a safer way and probably more likely to give a good result.

I freely acknowledge that you are more clever than I was 25 years ago with my Unisaw. I'd make me one of them too. Very nice.

Unless it was a one-off cut - then...nah.

[Doug Garson]

I freely acknowledge that you are more clever than I was 25 years ago with my Unisaw. I'd make me one of them too. Very nice.

Unless it was a one-off cut - then...nah.
Don't give me too much credit, I posted the L fence video but still haven't gotten around to making one. Anybody have a round tuit I can borrow? :cool: I generally use a crosscut sled to cut miters for small boxes but it has its limits on size.

[glenn bradley]

The "L" fence is handier than one might think. I upgraded mine recently based on Bob Van Dykes version 2.

507368 . 507367

My first one was based on his original and was cannibalized for the effort. That's why there are some odd holes here and there.

[Mike Mason]

Some people set their fence so it's out a little bit to the right so less prone to push the work piece toward the back of the blade. In this case moving the fence to the left of the blade would cause a problem. My fence has slots on all 3 faces so I made a subfence that I can move back and forth to function as a European style short fence. I could move the fence to the left of the blade on a right tilt saw and can set the subfence so it doesn't trap the work between the fence and saw once cut.

Good points. Just to clarify for those who might not have understood, I believe that he meant that the rear of the rip fence should be a few thousandths away from the blade, rather than having the rip fence perfectly parallel to the blade. As he correctly pointed out, that creates a problem if you simply move it to the left side of the blade without taking additional measures.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Anybody have a round tuit I can borrow?..........

Laugh out loud. In the way back, every so often an envelope from my Mom would show up at the dorm, or frat house, or wherever. In it would be a card with their home phone number, and a half dozen or so cardboard rounds with TUIT printed on them.

[Doug Garson]

Laugh out loud. In the way back, every so often an envelope from my Mom would show up at the dorm, or frat house, or wherever. In it would be a card with their home phone number, and a half dozen or so cardboard rounds with TUIT printed on them.
:):):):):):):):):):)

[Doug Garson]

I posted one recently:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc86ZHWqYCSiWYDcpTDqNcy6JCx25-L3y5TMjMRgIGNBFbEUK5iPlT6r75uBBWVhuuTiI7jYv5K0m8T5 V4KPIXAhZ2e4ZOTBzGp-Co2WLz6qxVNh8W_7NEp6C24ibJaSZ3y01sZJ9JEdNyg-qmZPUIxlFQ=w1569-h885-s-no?authuser=0

It looks like you set the bottom of the L fence below the top of the workpiece so the workpiece runs along the L fence and bury the tip of the blade in the L fence. Could you add block of scrap wood to the top of the workpiece with double sided tape to run along the L fence and then set the L fence just above the workpiece so you don't cut into it?

[John TenEyck]

It looks like you set the bottom of the L fence below the top of the workpiece so the workpiece runs along the L fence and bury the tip of the blade in the L fence. Could you add block of scrap wood to the top of the workpiece with double sided tape to run along the L fence and then set the L fence just above the workpiece so you don't cut into it?

The fence has to be below the top of the workpiece so that the workpiece has something to ride against. I guess it could be done as you propose, but that seems like a lot of added work and potential for problems for no gain. Cutting into the fence is no big deal, I rip it back to create a fresh edge, as needed, and replace it when the time comes. It's just a piece of plywood.

John

[Doug Garson]

The fence has to be below the top of the workpiece so that the workpiece has something to ride against. I guess it could be done as you propose, but that seems like a lot of added work and potential for problems for no gain. Cutting into the fence is no big deal, I rip it back to create a fresh edge, as needed, and replace it when the time comes. It's just a piece of plywood.

John

OK, I've seen that method used to cut a straight edge on a workpiece with a wavy edge or to cut a taper and thought it could work for miters also.