How do I make these cuts?

[Mark Gibney]

How do I make the 40° angle cuts on this board?

The boards will be milled to 1 1/4" thick.
After I trim the angles shown on the edges I will then mill a cove on one face.

507014

I can rip the 50° angle the normal way - tilt the blade to 50°, clamp on a sacrificial fence, tune in the fence position and rip the boards.
The 40° rip is what has me stumped right now.
My saw is a right-tilt Unisaw.
What do I do?
thanks, Mark

[Cameron Wood]

It sounds like you will end up with a piece 1 1/4"x1 1/4" x4 3/8" long, with angled cuts on the ends and a cove milled in the face, which has diagonal grain.

[mike calabrese]

This is how I would do it
calabrese55507016

[Jim Becker]

One-time, temporary sleds are your friend for stuff like this. A piece of plywood and some scraps to create barriers that hold the workpiece in place as you run the cut by moving the fixture along the fence. You can use screws and/or 23 gauge pin nails hold things in place. Four Eyes on the 'Tube uses this technique "a lot" for all kinds of odd shaped things and joinery surfaces that have to be "just right" if you want to become more familiar with it first. (And always cut scrap first to verify you got the math/layout/sled correct for the cut(s))

[Rick Whitehead]

You're going to have problems doing this with a right-tilt Unisaw. The blade won't tilt far enough to give you your 50 degree angle.You can cut the 40 degree angle with the board flat,but you will have to cut your 50 degree angle with the board vertical. You may also have to cut the 50 degree angle using the other side of your rip fence.
I see some other problems, too. Are you cutting your stock from a 3 by 3 1/4 thick board, as indicated in your drawing? If so, why? Why not just get 1 1/4 (5/4) stock and rip it to width?

[Mark Gibney]

The boards will be of various lengths, from 6' to 12'. My apologies, my post was misleading.
The finished parts will be 1 1/4 x 4 3/8 x Various lengths.

Thanks for the ideas. Jim I'll check out that youtube channel.

[Jim Becker]

Mark, the new information you provided that indicates the pieces are "really long" complicates using a sled for obvious reasons. But I still encourage you to check out the Four Eyes channel...it's good for both design and techniques for making those designs come to life.

[Walter Plummer]

507053This is how I cut the crown for my mantel. I did the profiles first. I think it would work for your application. The blade stays at the same angle for all the cuts.

[Mark Hennebury]

Rip the triangle closest to the fence, rotate the post 180 degrees and rip the other triangle off.

[Cameron Wood]

What Walter Plummer shows, but put the fence to the left of the blade to make the vertical cuts first.

[Mark Hennebury]

I don't understand the problem?
507071

[Myles Moran]

Assuming I'm looking at the end grain, I would run the 40° bevel a touch oversized on the tablesaw. I'd then plane the piece to thickness to give me the 50° cut.

If you're running a rubber roller planer I'd run a block plane over the corner before planing the piece. I wouldn't want to risk damaging the rollers with a corner that can be fixed in ten seconds with a good plane, and I'd hate to waste an opportunity to use my plane.