Felder K3 Hammer Rip Fence

[Joseph Mazey]

Hello all. Hoping to get some feedback ideas on my Felder K3. I mainly cut 1/4" MDF pieces that are 48" L and 16" W. My crosscut fence in near perfectly aligned. I use the rip fence as a stop block but I think the problem I am having as an example... I cut 13" off, then another 13" and finally a 3rd 13", the last piece wants to ride the rip fence so of the 3 pieces, the first 2 are matching but the 3rd is slightly off. On a standard cabinet saw I was use to clamping a 2" block but with the way the slider is set up I have a 39" fence pulled forward so about 29" hang off. First thought was cut the fence down to 15" and have the extra piece at 24". The other thought was do that idea and then mount a 2" stop block to the fence to avoid the board trying to ride the rip fence and just re-position ruler. The other idea is allign the rip fence at 90 to the crosscut fence but that means I lose the toe out which I want to avoid.just seeing if anyone else has had this issue or if it is just me based on what I am cutting.

[Rich Markiewicz]

Hi Joseph -
Most of the pieces I cut are thicker than 1/4, but two methods I've used on a Hammer C3-31:
1. Parallel guides, the ones from Lamb Tool Works are very good
2. As you said, cut down the low fence, I did mine roughly 1/3 - 2/3. Keeps the fence front just away from the saw blade w/o lots of overhang.

hope this helps . . .


parallel guides (w/safety officer lizard)
506673

short bump fence
506674

[Jim Becker]

I cut a 300mm section off the rip fence for my slider (SCM/Minimax) and use that for when I need just a stop and that also makes using the "longer" piece of the fence easier because the back end is rarely past the rear of the blade when I'm using the rip fence for cutting.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Why not just build a stop block (that clamps to the rail) instead of using the fence?

[Chris Parks]

Hello all. Hoping to get some feedback ideas on my Felder K3. I mainly cut 1/4" MDF pieces that are 48" L and 16" W. My crosscut fence in near perfectly aligned.

But is it aligned to Hammer's specs?

When you change from a cabinet saw to a slider your approach and thinking has to do a 180 degree turnabout. Rip everything possible on the slider using a short length of fence as described above and the "off cut" becomes the piece you want & the full length rip fence lives on a shelf to be used on those rare occasions where longer rips are needed. Using the rip fence as a stop means the rip is a lot more accurate and the finish is way better. Put a DRO on the rip fence and everything immediately simplified and repeatable.