A method of mortising

[Mark Rainey]

Many have trepidation hand mortising and succumb to the bench top mortising machine. Not in Neaderland. In the past some have advised lining up a try square to help you stay square..but that is cumbersome especially when your solid blows send your fine tuned try square to the concrete floor. Others suggest attaching a piece of wood further down the board at right angles...more out of the way, but still a pain. I submit my technique to the annals of hand tool woodworking ( along with Roubo et al ). As you begin mortising, sight straight down the mortising chisel and the board. Once in a line your chops will be square. Chop away without hesitation. ( The mortising chisel is placed at the far end of the mortise only for illustrating purposes - it normally begins at the near end.)

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In this pic the chisel is not lined up with the board

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[Jim Koepke]

For some of us setting a mortise chisel square is done easily by eye. For others clamping some guides is helpful.

jtk

[steven c newman]

I always set by eye...except that I start at the far end and work my work back....mainly to watch the layout lines better, without the chisel getting in the way...Layout lines are my guide.

[Mark Rainey]

I always set by eye...except that I start at the far end and work my work back....mainly to watch the layout lines better, without the chisel getting in the way...Layout lines are my guide.
I can see how starting at the far end would make your layout lines easier to see.

[Tom M King]

I start in the middle and work towards both ends. End cuts are only slicing cuts- no prying.

[steven c newman]

And...when one has a bunch to do...
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9 out of 14 needed for this rail....plus another 14 for the matching rail...

[Tom M King]

A 20 foot board doesn't fit in 20 foot square rooms to work on it. The client that bought the board, who took the picture, asked me if all I was going to use was a chisel. 20 foot clear Heart Pine boards don't come easily or cheap.

[Mark Rainey]

A 20 foot board doesn't fit in 20 foot square rooms to work on it. The client that bought the board, who took the picture, asked me if all I was going to use was a chisel. 20 foot clear Heart Pine boards don't come easily or cheap.

Proof that hand tool skill is still valuable.

[Ben Ellenberger]

Many have trepidation hand mortising and succumb to the bench top mortising machine. Not in Neaderland. In the past some have advised lining up a try square to help you stay square..but that is cumbersome especially when your solid blows send your fine tuned try square to the concrete floor. Others suggest attaching a piece of wood further down the board at right angles...more out of the way, but still a pain. I submit my technique to the annals of hand tool woodworking ( along with Roubo et al ). As you begin mortising, sight straight down the mortising chisel and the board. Once in a line your chops will be square. Chop away without hesitation. ( The mortising chisel is placed at the far end of the mortise only for illustrating purposes - it normally begins at the near end.)

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In this pic the chisel is not lined up with the board

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Great post! This really helped develop an eye/feel for chopping square. I also set a square up next to the piece to help when learning. As I’ve gotten more used to chopping mortises I don’t find the need to do this as much, but if I’m making a frame and panel door or anything else that needs to be spot-on I’ll still set up so I can sight in-line with the chisel and mortise.

[Jim Koepke]

The client that bought the board, who took the picture, asked me if all I was going to use was a chisel.

Did you say, "no, need to also use a mallet to to drive the chisel"?

Back in the old days, high schools would have coordinated classes. Students would make their own drafting tools like a T-square and triangles in their wood shop class.

I made a few and one was made rather fat.

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Before learning to saw well, it came in handy.

There are a lot of small thing like straight edges, winding sticks, shooting boards and triangles a lot of folks don't want to "waste" time building and would rather purchase.

The best reason to spend some time on such projects isn't so much as to have the item but for the skills learned in the process of making them.

Making my own straight edges and winding sticks has vastly improved my ability to plane straight edges on boards to be glued together into a panel.

Learning to see square has made mortising not only faster, but also easier.

jtk

[Thomas McCurnin]

We spent nearly a solid day at school learning hand and eye training. It is absolutely amazing how accurate one's eye is for spotting something at an improper angle or out of square. This reference book confirmed what we already learned.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/books-and-dvds/70826-by-hand-and-eye?item=20L0324&utm_source=free_google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&utm_campaign=USA%7CPLA%7CPMax%7CTools%7CMidPriceTi er&gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7GnBhDXARIsAFLvH4n-mgpIShffYIfBILWBlyv8HX6tBosmdNNuOIrheKc7WQcf0hXiDg 4aAiNEEALw_wcB

[steven c newman]

There are 3 chisels I usually use to chop a mortise..
Mortise chisel, as close to the size mortise I am doing
1"/24mm wide chisel, to clean the side walls to vertical..IF needed
I have a clean out, curved chisel, to clean out the bottom of a mortise...sometimes call a Lock Mortise Chisel

Since I make the tenons first...I usually use that tenon to lay out the mortise..and leave the lines when done. Otherwise, I do have 2 Mortise Marking gauges to use. There is also a combo square on hand....to square up any lines( shaky hand holding the pencil..) and to check the depth.

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12oz hammer...I am chopping Ash, after all..
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One of the 2....
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Trying for a no gap fit...front leg mortise to the seat rail tenon...
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I think I gave up counting how many mortises this has...seat slats and the end of the arm rest to seat back are about the only places where screws were involved...

[Mark Rainey]

Yes, it is nice having a 1 inch wide chisel when the mortise is a tad out of vertical. And I can see how the lock mortise chisel would be a nice convenience when
doing a lot of mortises.

[Jim Koepke]

Yes, it is nice having a 1 inch wide chisel when the mortise is a tad out of vertical. And I can see how the lock mortise chisel would be a nice convenience when
doing a lot of mortises.

Lock mortise chisels are very helpful. The sharp edge can smooth the bottom of a mortise. They are also helpful for levering out chips. It is nice having chisels up to 2" wide for working the sides of mortises.

This is most of my mortising chisels.

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From the left they are a 1" heavy timber chisel, 1/2", 3/8", 5/16" & 1/4" pig stickers. A 1/8" & 1/4" lock mortise chisel.

There is also a 3/4" heavy firmer chisel and a 1/2" lock mortise chisel used when needed.

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Of course if a different size is needed one of my firmer chisels can do the job.

For me it is usually easier and faster to cut mortises first. If a lot are to be made the same size, a test tenon will be cut to check fit and square.

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A good mortise gauge is also helpful. Though it is possible to lay out the joint without a mortise gauge.

Here is a link to one of my projects with a lot of mortises > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?262272

jtk

[Mark Rainey]

Completed 8 hand chopped mortises, then 8 hand sawed tenons. Edge jointed top for 36 by 48 table in Pennsylvania cherry. Donated table to Landis Valley Museum Harvest Days Auction coming October 7 & 8 near Lancaster Pennsylvania.

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[Jim Koepke]

Very Nice

jtk

[Rob Luter]

Completed 8 hand chopped mortises, then 8 hand sawed tenons. Edge jointed top for 36 by 48 table in Pennsylvania cherry. Donated table to Landis Valley Museum Harvest Days Auction coming October 7 & 8 near Lancaster Pennsylvania.

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Showoff. ;)

Just kidding. That is really nice.

[Mark Rainey]

Very Nice

jtk

Thanks Jim!


Showoff. ;)

Just kidding. That is really nice.

Thanks Rob!

[Mark Rainey]

Hand chopping more mortises. Sometimes, even when I stay exactly between my mortise gauge lines, I can get tearout along the edge. I tried knifing the lines but still I can get tearout. Usually the shoulders will hide the tearout. Perhaps I am chopping too aggressively. Does any else experience this & are there any solutions❓

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[Jim Koepke]

That looks like it has more to do with the wood's grain than it does technique.

jtk

[Warren Mickley]

Hand chopping more mortises. Sometimes, even when I stay exactly between my mortise gauge lines, I can get tearout along the edge. I tried knifing the lines but still I can get tearout. Usually the shoulders will hide the tearout. Perhaps I am chopping too aggressively. Does any else experience this & are there any solutions❓


When we make a mortise we cut the fibers across the grain and depend on the fibers on the side walls to slide along the grain to complete the cut. We don't really cut the sidewalls. Because we cut bevel down, the chisel also slides along the side grain and, if the corners are sharp, will scrape the side walls and tidy them up a bit,
.
If the grain is somewhat crooked, the slippage at the sides does not work so well. Usually we take considerably smaller bites when chopping, which helps a lot.

The straightness of the grain is a consideration when choosing stock for members to mortised. Sometimes, as for a table leg, we position things so the section with the mortise is particularly straight grain. Sometimes we might choose curly grain for the stiles of a frame, knowing that the mortising will be more work. The straightness of the grain also affects the strength of the joint: the mortise and tenon joint is designed with grain orientation in mind. Grin runout can result in joint failure many years later.

[Mark Rainey]

That looks like it has more to do with the wood's grain than it does technique.

jtk
Thanks Jim, I think you are right

[Mark Rainey]

When we make a mortise we cut the fibers across the grain and depend on the fibers on the side walls to slide along the grain to complete the cut. We don't really cut the sidewalls. Because we cut bevel down, the chisel also slides along the side grain and, if the corners are sharp, will scrape the side walls and tidy them up a bit,
.
If the grain is somewhat crooked, the slippage at the sides does not work so well. Usually we take considerably smaller bites when chopping, which helps a lot.

The straightness of the grain is a consideration when choosing stock for members to mortised. Sometimes, as for a table leg, we position things so the section with the mortise is particularly straight grain. Sometimes we might choose curly grain for the stiles of a frame, knowing that the mortising will be more work. The straightness of the grain also affects the strength of the joint: the mortise and tenon joint is designed with grain orientation in mind. Grin runout can result in joint failure many years later.

Thanks Warren. Grain selection is important. I will try smaller chops when dealing with crooked grain.

[steven c newman]

I usually hit the chisel 1-3 times, depending on the wood being mortised. The only time I have that sort of tear-out...is when I am clearing the chips out.
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Now, IF the grain is turning across the mortise....I will take a wider chisel and do a tap or 2 on the wall's lay-out line..cutting the grain's path across the mortise. Does not take much, other than the wise chisel being sharp

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[Mark Rainey]

I usually hit the chisel 1-3 times, depending on the wood being mortised. The only time I have that sort of tear-out...is when I am clearing the chips out.
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Now, IF the grain is turning across the mortise....I will take a wider chisel and do a tap or 2 on the wall's lay-out line..cutting the grain's path across the mortise. Does not take much, other than the wise chisel being sharp

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Good suggestion Steve…I also get the problem mostly when leveraging the chips out.

[Jim Koepke]

Good suggestion Steve…I also get the problem mostly when leveraging the chips out.

That is where a lock mortise chisel comes in handy. Use a size smaller than the mortise if available.

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A sharp edge at the end helps to clean up the bottom of a mortise.

jtk

[Mark Rainey]

That is where a lock mortise chisel comes in handy. Use a size smaller than the mortise if available.

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A sharp edge at the end helps to clean up the bottom of a mortise.

jtk

those are nice Jim - I will keep my eyes open for a reasonably priced used one.

[Jim Koepke]

those are nice Jim - I will keep my eyes open for a reasonably priced used one.

The small one is ~1/8" and may have come in a Buck Bros. carving kit. They show up occasionally at yard sales.

The other was purchased from another SMC member. There is also a 1/2" Marples made one in the shop for big work.

jtk

[Christopher Charles]

Great looking table Mark. I agree that hand mortising for a table is nothing to be afraid of and can be faster (and less scary) than mortising with, say, a router.

A bit off-subject, but how did you attach the top to your table(s)?

[Mark Rainey]

Thanks Chris! I used the figure 8 table top connectors. I really like them. Not historically accurate, but very convenient. Are you familiar with them?
Great looking table Mark. I agree that hand mortising for a table is nothing to be afraid of and can be faster (and less scary) than mortising with, say, a router.

A bit off-subject, but how did you attach the top to your table(s)?

[Christopher Charles]

Yes, I've seen those but never used them. I usually plow a groove and make wooden buttons. Oh, and good on 'ya for making furniture for benefit auction!

Best,
Chris

[Mike Allen1010]

Hand chopping more mortises. Sometimes, even when I stay exactly between my mortise gauge lines, I can get tearout along the edge. I tried knifing the lines but still I can get tearout. Usually the shoulders will hide the tearout. Perhaps I am chopping too aggressively. Does any else experience this & are there any solutions❓

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I thought that's what Tennon shoulders are for- covering ugly mortice margins!:)

BTW, table is beautiful - -something about clean simple lines that just appeals to the eye. Of course that requires comparable levels of execution for complete work. Well done!

[Jim R Edwards]

I start in the middle and work towards both ends. End cuts are only slicing cuts- no prying.

I do the same way as you. Works best for me.

[Mark Rainey]

I thought that's what Tennon shoulders are for- covering ugly mortice margins!:)

BTW, table is beautiful - -something about clean simple lines that just appeals to the eye. Of course that requires comparable levels of execution for complete work. Well done!
Thanks Mike! Many times I have been saved when my tenon shoulders cover up my tearout. Quartersawn stock isn’t always easy to have.

[Ben Ellenberger]

If the edges of a mortise will be visible, such as on a through mortise, I’ll often chop with a slightly under-sized chisel, then pare the last bit to get the final size. I agree with what other people have said about picking straight-grain wood to help get cleaner edges.

[Mark Rainey]

If the edges of a mortise will be visible, such as on a through mortise, I’ll often chop with a slightly under-sized chisel, then pare the last bit to get the final size. I agree with what other people have said about picking straight-grain wood to help get cleaner edges.

Good tip Ben.

[Tom Vanzant]

Tom King … I didn’t see your Lervad bench under that 20’ beam. ��

[Mark Rainey]

The mortising was the beginning

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[Mark Rainey]

Hand plane finish - no sand paper. Hammer veneering. More pictures508395508396508397508398508399

[Ben Ellenberger]

That is looking good!

[kenneth hatch]

Mark, Welcome to wood, and yes many times my morticses look rougher than I would like. Whatever they seem to work and not look too bad when finished. Maybe it is because I'm more of a "framer" than a "finish carpenter".


Hand chopping more mortises. Sometimes, even when I stay exactly between my mortise gauge lines, I can get tearout along the edge. I tried knifing the lines but still I can get tearout. Usually the shoulders will hide the tearout. Perhaps I am chopping too aggressively. Does any else experience this & are there any solutions❓

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[Tom Bender]

Really? you guys chop mortises without cutting the sides? You normally use very straight grained stock?

As a hobby worker with no schedule to meet, and because chopping mortises is pleasant work I carefully work down all edges at least 1/16" before going a little faster.

[mike stenson]

Like the tear-out when chopping dovetail waste.. it's going to be covered (most of the time in mortises), so I generally don't bother.

[Mark Rainey]

Really? you guys chop mortises without cutting the sides? You normally use very straight grained stock?

As a hobby worker with no schedule to meet, and because chopping mortises is pleasant work I carefully work down all edges at least 1/16" before going a little faster.

Tom, I also have been knifing the edges sometimes like you. It does seem to help

[Mark Rainey]

Like the tear-out when chopping dovetail waste.. it's going to be covered (most of the time in mortises), so I generally don't bother.
Yes Mike, most of the times my tear-out is covered!

[Mark Rainey]

Completed 8 hand chopped mortises, then 8 hand sawed tenons. Edge jointed top for 36 by 48 table in Pennsylvania cherry. Donated table to Landis Valley Museum Harvest Days Auction coming October 7 & 8 near Lancaster Pennsylvania.

507473507474

The minimum bid accepted was placed at $250. I had a $250 bid and a $415 bid. The $415 bid took the table.