Need your combined Karma.

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

Yesterday, a friend and fellow (althought A LOT better) woodworker stopped by Woodcraft to show us what he was able to do with an attachment he bought to turn his chainsaw into a portable mill. ( I won't go into THAT...this is NOT a commercial)

In the back of his truck was some of the most beautiful Curly, Streaked, Blistered Soft Maple I've had the pleasure to see. After some slight nudging..............OK, I got down on my knees and begged....... he gave me a piece. This is so wet, that it weighed 10 lbs (18" long, 8" wide, and 5" thick down to 1", with bark on it). Took it to the saw tonight and got 8 pen blanks and a bowl blank about 7-1/2 square.

Put the block on the lathe and started to rough it out. Had to have my facemask squeegee out and ready. Took it all the way down to 1/4".

Now the reason for your help. Some may remember that awhile ago, I did a small piece out of Cherry, turned it to about 1/16", then wiped it down with oil, let it sit, and got virtually no deflection,AND NO cracks.

I'm trying the same thing with this. I literally soaked it in oil. So much that in some places, I could actually see light through it. I intend to let it set for a day or two, then finish turning it down to about 1/16" or less.

Please say, "NO CRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAACKS" every time you think about it for the next few days and we'll see what happens. When it is closer to being done, I'll take pictures.

Bruce;)

[Jim Dunn]

Bruce is this gonna turn in to a tag line contest again???:eek::eek::eek: Ok I'm game. Look below.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

All together now........Ahhhooooooommmmmmm!:rolleyes: :D

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

No, not this time. I'm serious. If this works, just think.

No more LLD
No more DNA
No more waiting weeks for it to dry

Finish turn it in days and little or NO deflection.

Now, wouldn't that be great?

Bruce

Excuse me, I'm going down and see if Ken had any effect...............His being New Virginal to turning, and all!

Ken.................It's NOT Ahhhoooommmmmmmm! I got a little more hair than a krishna! It's NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOCRACCCCCCCCCCCKS!

Bruce

No Cracks and no deflection. Hope I'm on to sumpun.

[Richard Gillespie]

NooooooooooooooooCraaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaacks!!!!! Best wishes Bruce. Keep us updated with your progresss.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I'll add you to my list of daily prayer for good results!! :D

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

Just woke up.......4:00am CST. Got antsy. Went down and looked at it, turned the lathe on.....................No cracks and no deflection.

Like the guy said after falling off the ledge, on the way down, "So far so good."

See if I can get some more sleep.

Night,

Bruce

[John Hart]

Ya know...if this works the way you want, it would suggest that the oil has displaced the water and sealed the piece completely. I wonder if a tub of oil and pulling a vacuum would further increase your success rate?


Noooooooocccccrrrrraaaaacccckkkkkss!

[Glenn Clabo]

May the Say No To Cracks God shine upon all plummers...but most importantly upon Bruce and his attempt to test the faith.

[John Miliunas]

OK Bruce, you got it! NooooooooooooooooooCraaaaaaaaaaaaaaacks, especially nooooooooooooWiseCraaaaaaaaaaaaaaaacks from Andy!!! :D I'm litereally on the edge of my seat with anticipation on how this one will turn out!! :) :cool:

[Keith Burns]

Bruce, you are on my "No Crack" list for sure:) :)

[Mike Burkeen]

Was that "Just say no to crack?" or "Just say No Crack" .. There I said em both.

[Andy Hoyt]

mmmmph mmmmphhhhh mpmmphphph

[Paul Douglass]

NOOOOOOOOOOOOCCCCCCCCCracKsSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!

What kind of oil did you use on it?

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

Well folks. I appreciate your efforts, but it's back to the think tank.........11:36 am. Just came back up. It has deflected about 1/4". Took it down as far as I dared. It is almost translucent. As I'm sanding, a small edge crack developed. Maybe I should dunk my head in a drum of oil. NAH too expensive.

Thanks for your help. The wood didn't want to do what I wanted it to. Next time I'll not turn it so thin, so I have room to take ALL the deflection out. Pictures will follow. The WOOD is still beautiful!

Bruce

[John Hart]

Grrrr...That's a shame Bruce:(

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

Here are photos of the bowl. This has no finish on it, just the oil and sanded to 320 grit. The walls are 1/16" or less.

1. inside of the bowl (Believe it or not.........it is smoooooooooooooth.)

2. outside of the bowl

3. The Crack.............bad news, it goes all the way down the side.

Now trying to figure out what to do. Design change? Since the crack is stabilized, just leave it?:confused:
Comments are appreciated.:)

Bruce;)

[Jim Dunn]

Bruce I would leave it. But it would also have been the first bowl I'd have ever turned. The thin wall is wonderful. If I may be so bold as to ask, does anyone actually use your bowl for fluids such as soups?

[Andy Hoyt]

Bruce - that looks like a Worp Factor of Three.

Adds character.

[Jim Becker]

Bruce, when you turn really wet to finish and very thin, you really need to wet sand and then let it dry. If you try to dry sand it too soon, the heat from sanding (friction!) can "help" it crack. (It could still crack without help, but no sense in risking it) The deflection is not something to worry about and should be expected on something turned sopping wet and very thing...enjoy it. And then hand sand the sucker before hand-finishing it... ;)


If you have a copy available to you, Del Stubb's video has him turning a VERY wet and Very thin piece out of apple. No finish sanding until it's totally dry and then by hand, not on the lathe, if I recall.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Sorry Bruce!..........Next time I'll ..........NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOCRACKSSSSSSSSSSS! I promise......

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

Thanks all, for you comments. :)

I guess removing the crack by carving a figure or detail would not be too good?:confused:

Jim B., I am wet sanding it, with the oil. It isn't the least bit dry. It cracked overnight, while I was waiting for it to stabilize a little.:o

Jim D., I don't believe that anyone has used them for soup. Almost all of mine have some hole in it somewhere. That way, I can call them ART.:D :D

Paul D., This time I was using Butcher block oil. I wanted penitration but NO discoloration of the figure.

Ken. I'll accept a posting of your first piece................................When you're ready.

Bruce;)

[Bill Stevener]

Hi Bruce,

Leave the crack, let it dry, hand finish it and you will have a great chip bowl.

I have given up on wishing for no cracks when working with wet soft maple. In the early 60's I was turning 4"d X 18 & 24"h candle stands from green wet maple. I would apply my witches brew finish with a cotton cloth, a mixture of shellac and JPW, blended together, until the piece shined like a new penny. For the most part, they all held up quite well. Sealed solid in a wax mixture. One that I gave to my MIL, waited almost 10 years before it developed a crack. She has since passed and the candle stand was given back to me and we have it in our den today.

When the wood wants to crack, it will. --------

Bill.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>:)

[Ernie Nyvall]

Well darn Bruce. I was noooocrackin until I got to this second page. I was too late, but as Bill says, it will be a great chip bowl. There was some nice figure in there too.

Ernie

[Bill Stevener]

Hi again Bruce,

Attached is a photo of a candle stand 4.5"d x 20"h turned around 1965 - 66. One of my earlier turnings.

The wood is soft maple. A green cut limb from a large tree. It was turned and finished the same day. Back then I really didn't know to let anything dry before finishing, I would just slap it on. It has stood up quite well for a green piece.

No comments on the turning, as it was an early one, turned on an all wooden lathe, powered with a 3hp one lounger - hit and miss gas engine, an old flat belt and I didn't even think about alignment at that time.

It may decide to crack some day.

Bill.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>:)