Face Frame w/ Inset _ Hinges

[andrew whicker]

If going w/ euro style hinges... I'm looking at the two obvious routes that many have done before me:

1) use blocking and full crank hinges w/ zero height mounts
2) use the special mounting plate w/ half crank hinge that essentially acts like a blocking plate except it mounts to your Face Frame (see picture below). Mounting plates adds 9 mm height to make up for the half crank hinge.

I'm personally unenthusiastic about using the face frame for torque. The doors are 53" H x 19" W.

What are peoples' experience using the special mounting bracket?

506100

Fig 1: special mounting plate w/ half crank hinge.



:)

Fig 2: Smiley face.

[Kevin Jenness]

The brackets are fine. I usually build face frame cabinets with a 1/32" offset between the sides and face frame edge so the baseplates mount directly to the box side.

[andrew whicker]

That is the other solution..

[Jonathan Jung]

I do similar to Kevin, the faceframe is proud of the inside face of the cabinet side by 3mm. Hinges are mounted on 6mm plates which gives I think a 3mm hole-to-edge for the hinge cups. Overlapping the faceframe only 3mm looks really nice, but is enough for a 1.5mm roundover around the inside edges of the faceframe (nice not to scrape a knuckle when retrieving an item).

[andrew whicker]

So full crank / inset hinges with 6 mm baseplate?

That's a good solution. I like it.

[Jared Sankovich]

I use an 1/8" offset and 3mm plate.

[Kevin Jenness]

An advantage to a minimal face frame overhang is that drawer slides need no blocking.

[Jonathan Jung]

Kevin, do you lightly sand the sharp edge off the back edge of the FF opening?

[Kevin Jenness]

Kevin, do you lightly sand the sharp edge off the back edge of the FF opening?

Absolutely. Broken edges anywhere that might be touched.

[Jonathan Jung]

How do you maintain the 1/32" down the length of the sides? Are you biscuiting or pocket screwing the carcass to the FF?

[Kevin Jenness]

How do you maintain the 1/32" down the length of the sides? Are you biscuiting or pocket screwing the carcass to the FF?

Biscuits, often with pocket screws. Doing a single box I may just use clamps and cauls rather than machining pocket holes, when doing multiples pocket holes can get boxes off the bench faster. Some partitions visible on both sides have to be done with clamps/cauls anyway. The biscuits are a bit time consuming but they locate the parts where I want them w/o too much fuss.

[andrew whicker]

This FF will be painted so I don't have to worry about this right now, but for future reference...

How have people been installing FF's without using pocket screws or nails thru the front of the FF? The last time I had this situation I glued everything up at my shop. However, with bigger projects this becomes a lot more difficult.

I found this response from someone that I think makes sense:

506580

[Kevin Jenness]

This FF will be painted so I don't have to worry about this right now, but for future reference...

How have people been installing FF's without using pocket screws or nails thru the front of the FF? The last time I had this situation I glued everything up at my shop. However, with bigger projects this becomes a lot more difficult.

I found this response from someone that I think makes sense:

506580

Why is it more difficult on a larger project? Because you want to attach the face frames on site, or because clamping the frames on in the shop is too time consuming? Wouldn't the linked method take as long as using pocket screws?

You might consider Lamello Tenso fasteners, although they do require investing in an expensive biscuit jointer https://www.csaw.com/lamello/p-system/

[andrew whicker]

Why is it more difficult on a larger project? Because you want to attach the face frames on site, or because clamping the frames on in the shop is too time consuming? Wouldn't the linked method take as long as using pocket screws?

You might consider Lamello Tenso fasteners, although they do require investing in an expensive biscuit jointer https://www.csaw.com/lamello/p-system/



Because you might want to do it on site. For example two shop made cabs side by side. Covering those two sides with one FF stile vs doing both stiles for each cab.

[Kevin Jenness]

Because you might want to do it on site. For example two shop made cabs side by side. Covering those two sides with one FF stile vs doing both stiles for each cab.

One way to do that is to mount the face frames in the shop with the meeting stile on one box and the adjoining rails joined with dominos. This works best with overlay doors but if the face frames are joined dry, sanded and finished together in the shop it can make for a good job. I don't know how your linked t&g/toenail from behind would work in the field unless done on horses prior to hanging the boxes. In that case it would beat pocket joints as the fasteners could be hidden by the face frame overhang. Best to have as few field joints as possible, subject to the maximum size that can be maneuvered into the room and boosted onto the wall. A challenge of marrying face frames and boxes on site is pulling the frames in tight for a clean joint to the cabinet edges. This would be a great application for Tensos.

[Bobby Robbinett]

I sometimes use a solid wood strip ripped so that 1/2” protrudes from the inside edge of the hinge side of the inside of the face frame. Then use standard 1/2” overlay hinges.