Tom Bussey
08-13-2023, 5:33 PM
First of all I I just know someone will bring it up if I don't say something. The problem with this type of indicator is that if it is not in prefect 90 degree alignment then you will get a cosign error. Which is if it is lined up, at lets say 30 degrees. If you move 1 inch on the indicator you will only actually move .88603 which is the length of the side adjacent of a 30 degree angle when the hypotenuse is 1 inch. There is also a small manufacturing error factor allowance so if everything is prefect the indicator can be off as much as .010 in 1 inch which is allowed. Now every one knows, so that person shouldn't feel the need to respond.
Having said all of that I try to line up the indicator at 90 degrees as best I can. Since were are working with short moves and with wood the cosign error really isn't a factor.
Now for a few thin ( 10-20 ) strips this is how I do it. I rip a board to get a good clean cut and to set the fence at a desired spot. I set the indicator to approximately where I want it , turn on the magnet and then set it to zero. My wood was to thin so I had to place a piece under it to raise it up so the indicator point would contact it. All my blades are full kerf at 1/8th or ,125. Lets say I want a couple of strips 1/8th wide. I move the board and the fence .125 for the blade thickness and .125 for the thin strip I want. or I move the strip .250 total and if I need more than one, than I move the indicator so I only have about a .050 preload on the indicator and reset zero. Now all I have to do is move the board and fence to zero and recut. you can cut as many strips as the board allows.
Now the indicator in question is not the last indicator I bought. The last one is a General from Menards for $23.14 and the magnet I had shipped from Home Depot. It was some where in the $25 range. I made it so the indicator stuck out horizontal with the wood I need to make it so I can also rotate it down so I can eliminate the need to shim up the board. But then the cosign error inters in, but at 1/4 of an inch of movement it won't be much and zero can then be adjusted for the error.
I have about $50 invested and I didn't have to spend $150 for a thin rig jig that will do only one thing. I am going to show other uses in the reply section.
505954 505955
Having said all of that I try to line up the indicator at 90 degrees as best I can. Since were are working with short moves and with wood the cosign error really isn't a factor.
Now for a few thin ( 10-20 ) strips this is how I do it. I rip a board to get a good clean cut and to set the fence at a desired spot. I set the indicator to approximately where I want it , turn on the magnet and then set it to zero. My wood was to thin so I had to place a piece under it to raise it up so the indicator point would contact it. All my blades are full kerf at 1/8th or ,125. Lets say I want a couple of strips 1/8th wide. I move the board and the fence .125 for the blade thickness and .125 for the thin strip I want. or I move the strip .250 total and if I need more than one, than I move the indicator so I only have about a .050 preload on the indicator and reset zero. Now all I have to do is move the board and fence to zero and recut. you can cut as many strips as the board allows.
Now the indicator in question is not the last indicator I bought. The last one is a General from Menards for $23.14 and the magnet I had shipped from Home Depot. It was some where in the $25 range. I made it so the indicator stuck out horizontal with the wood I need to make it so I can also rotate it down so I can eliminate the need to shim up the board. But then the cosign error inters in, but at 1/4 of an inch of movement it won't be much and zero can then be adjusted for the error.
I have about $50 invested and I didn't have to spend $150 for a thin rig jig that will do only one thing. I am going to show other uses in the reply section.
505954 505955