Help needed, broken shear pin on general 130 planer

[Florian Stauss]

I picked up a late 80s general 130 planer recently. There was no infeed, I read somewhere that there’s a pin that likes to shear of if the machine is pushed to hard. I paid 200$ for the planer as I figured it’s worth the gamble. I removed the gearbox and found the broken pin.
The gear spins on the shaft but I can’t get it out. I tried a gear puller, but I’m afraid I’ll bend it. I assume the broken pin scored the inside of the gear and a burr prevents it from coming off. Not sure what my options are at this point and I’m curious if anyone has some experience with similar situations. I appreciate any insight.

[mike calabrese]

a picture would help. You can get a roll pin at local hardware if you can properly locate the gear then just re-drill for the roll pin and go.
Also a quick touch to drop a spot or two of weld could help. But photos might bring better suggestions.
calabrese55

[Florian Stauss]

Unfortunately I don’t think I’m able to submit pictures with my thread yet.
The issue is not how to fix it but how to remove the gear from the shaft. It wiggles and moves about 1/8, but beyond that it seems stuck and I can’t pull it. I guess I’ll try heating it today.

[Warren Lake]

weak point in those machines. The pin breaks and is still in there usually doing some damage and galling. I used to see some of those gears around here and likely have photos in another computer. Mine used to break when I was under the most pressure time wise. I think you need to get it lined up to be able to knock all the pieces out the other side with a punch.

[Florian Stauss]

Ok, at the moment I can’t get it to seat fully either, it’s stuck in between fully seated and off.
I was thinking of pressing it on all the way and just spot weld it to the shaft, bad idea?
I have pictures, I’m just not sure how to add them, I don’t have a long post history on this forum.

[Warren Lake]

FLorian take a look at the canadian woodwork forum. Not long ago there was someone with a broken pin., half the photos I have will be theirs as way past I was on film and stuff was mostly not scanned into the computer.

I get what you mean you got it to move some amount with the broken pin in there. Too long for me to remember but think past I pushed them back to original position to use a punch to drive it out. Its frustrating late hours having the trans apart and hands covered in gear oill. I can remember the smell of the gear box oil as I sit here. I would not weld it its a safety for other stuff not to break. I get that but they shear too easily. If the machine is not set up right all heights rollers etc it will put more stress on it but same time mine was set up bang on and I still broke those pins.

[Bill Dufour]

I would use a pin punch or a new roll pin as a punch. Slowly rotate the gear until all three holes line up then push out the broken pin. Can you use a bearing splitter to grab the gear hub? Using a jaw type gear puller risks bending or breaking teeth. I find a 1-2 inch or smaller bearing splitter is very useful for ww machines.
Can you buy a new gear from Boston gear? If so you have a lot more options.
BilL D.
Lots of used bearing splitters on the bay. You do need the cross piece arm and some all thread or long bolts.
https://www.otctools.com/products/5-ton-bar-type-pullerbearing-separator-tool-set

[Bill Dufour]

Is this it? what part number is it. I only see woodruff keys. What ever you repalce do not use too hard of a metal to replace them. They are designed to shear before something critical breaks.. Briggs and Stratton engines use an aluminum flywheel key. Some replace them. with iron so next time they hit a rock the flywheel key stays intact and the crank shaft nose bends instead.
edit: P14 look like pins. The gear looks like a simple chain sprocket so easy to source
Bill D.
http://vintagemachinery.org/files/PDF/General/General_Planer_130.pdf

[Florian Stauss]

Yes everything with the woodtoof keys came off fine. It’s a good idea with the bearing splitter, I only used the 2 jaw bearing puller so far, but again I agree I’m afraid to break the sprocket.
I did not even consider that the sprocket might be easy to source, I’ll look into that since that would open up many more options.
Again thank you all for your input.

[Richard Coers]

a picture would help. You can get a roll pin at local hardware if you can properly locate the gear then just re-drill for the roll pin and go.
Also a quick touch to drop a spot or two of weld could help. But photos might bring better suggestions.
calabrese55
A shear pin has an engineered strength because it is a safety feature to prevent breaking gears. A roll pin is way too hard and gears will break before the pin. We had shear pins on hay bailers and other machinery on the farm. I would not go harder than a grade 5 bolt.

[Richard Coers]

Ok, at the moment I can’t get it to seat fully either, it’s stuck in between fully seated and off.
I was thinking of pressing it on all the way and just spot weld it to the shaft, bad idea?
I have pictures, I’m just not sure how to add them, I don’t have a long post history on this forum.
Great chance the gear is an alloy that won't like welding. An oxy/acetylene torch is the tool to have. Along with a good gear puller you heat the gear cherry red and put on the pressure.

[Bill Dufour]

A replacement sprocket should be easy to source. Same number of teeth, same chain pitch. Get the same bore or you may have to enlarge the bore. If you can not find the correct#of teeth you could replace both so they match.
The machine is old enough the bore may be in inches?
Since it broke the shear pin you should check the chain and consider replacing it.
Bill D.

[Bill Dufour]

18 tooth sprocket. 3/4 bore under $10 on the bay. I bet you have to drill a pin hole not use set screws only.
You need to figure out the chain size to order a sprocket. I would guess 25,35 or 50
Bill D.
https://www.usarollerchain.com/roller-chain-size-chart-s/4869.htm#single-strand-roller-chain-size-chart

https://www.ebay.com/itm/322172070612?hash=item4b02f3aad4:g:SIwAAOSwmjVfKy2 3&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8LaWMWfOzNwZRp9SuxtTdyF5unuS1 dFEDDs%2FXQo5JN3hCI7KNYpI7Lz3ZPRtB%2FoovbrOylhDanH mYWcNty9Rp%2BdHAeiWa3t%2BpNRjnyrb8PY4tM5rSEpni0iG7 lhK%2FSL70mo8rI77oZbfJ18WL6Ex%2F%2BJapWaQZzGHdRFcn dC%2Fb2a5h2wPy1PVhJ7nqztZidK7g1o8uNKwI1z%2BoJ4Df0I QC%2FLg46vWux4cuD%2B7vRyshqtay%2F6Mwz08TIEiJpV4K7J cQXNyt9x3aRQu%2F7l2C1X%2FATXj5COzN61aJi17K5KhVYkhC dcb8jFtQsO9A8GDzL0i%2BA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9y39fq8 Yg

[Curt Harms]

Ok, at the moment I can’t get it to seat fully either, it’s stuck in between fully seated and off.
I was thinking of pressing it on all the way and just spot weld it to the shaft, bad idea?
I have pictures, I’m just not sure how to add them, I don’t have a long post history on this forum.

You have to be a contributor ($6U.S./yr.) to be able to post or view pics.

[Warren Lake]

Richard I often use the wrong terms but somehow friends understand me. ILl try and look later to see if I have any original gears or pins had seem them around at one point even though the machine has been gone for a long time. I was advised by general at the time not to use anythiung stronger I remember it being a hollow pine and thought maybe called a roll pin. It had a slot cut in it to compress for interfereance fit as it was knocked in.

I looked and dont see the small container I have seen them in maybe back to the attic or maybe just moved around. Id still try the canadian forum where a few guys have rebuilt them as long as you can find it iwth the search function.

[Richard Coers]

Traditionally, steel roll pins are very hard. I've ground a tooth on the end of some and used them to drill out screws that the head has broken off. Basically like a plug cutter. The existing shear pin might have been a roll pin, but I seriously doubt that was a factory part. Pretty certain if you broke a shear pin, someone else sure could have too. I would start with something softer, like a regular hardware store bolt. If that shears, go to a harder bolt. Here is a discussion you might find interesting. https://forum.canadianwoodworking.com/forum/tools/power-tools/1378806-general-130-planer-king-jointer

[Florian Stauss]

Thank you all for your input. I finally had time to work on it again. I clamped the other side of the shaft in my aluminum lined vise and put tension on the gear with the gear puller once more. I was able to grab the gear with my large cobra pliers and turn it on the shaft. This combined with the puller slowly pulled it off. Before I only used the puller without the circular motion.
So the gear is off and I’m looking forward to start the rebuild now.
Again thank you for your time!