How to safely cut this?

[tim walker]

Pull handles for bird's eye maple drawers. 75 mm wide. Other dimensions on drawing. The angles cut will be about 15 degrees, all others square. Any suggestions on how to cut this safely? I like to work in MM but also added image with fractions 505664505665505666

[Christopher Herzog]

Just off the cuff, thinking i would cut the 15 degrees on the top face first. Then would use the table saw to cut in multiple passes the two steps starting with the middle working to the taller end lastly. Clean up any blade marks with a chisel.

Thought about the tenon jig, just not sure it can all be supported good enough?

Again, just a quick glance . Would do some practice cuts on scrap for sure.

Best of luck,
Chris

[Lee Schierer]

Assuming the grain runs length wise in your handle. Also assuming you need 8 of these handles. Here's how I would cut it. I would start with a long board that is as wide as two of your pulls and long enough to cut all your pulls from the piece. Lay out your pieces along one edge of the board nose to tail, allowing at least 1/4" between pieces. Draw two from one end and flip the board 180 and draw two from the other end. Make sure you plan for a few extra pieces and have at least 8-10 inches of material left between the layout for a handle for the remaining steps.. On a table saw set up a dado blade to cut the 1" deep by 11/16 notch in two locations on one end then flip the board around and do two from the other end. Reset the saw to cut the 7/8" x 1/2" notch next and cut the notches the same way you did the first ones. This gives you a blank. Then rip the board into long strips for your needed 75 mm width plus a bit for cleanup. Clean up the rip cuts by sanding or jointing to remove all tooth marks. Now using a tenon cutting jig, set the jig to cut the desired angle, keeping tour blade set and 90 degrees. Cut your angle on each end of your two blanks. Switch to your miter gauge and cut off the first four handles from your blank. Trim the ends of the blanks to your layout lines for the next handles. Repeat the tenon cutter cuts on the remaining pieces and then cut them free from the blank.

When cutting the bevel, use a ripping blade because it will give you a cleaner cut with less chance of burning.

[Brian Tymchak]

I would create a clamp, or maybe use a handscrew clamp, stand the blank on end and cut with a bandsaw.

[Cameron Wood]

I would cut on the table saw, top face toward the fence, first the two cuts that will be horizontal, then cut the bevel, probably with a hand plane, and then the two final rips, starting with the furthest from the show face, maybe tacking in a filler to keep the stock from tipping on the second one. Finally cut the long piece or pieces of stock to length.

Bonus points if you understand what I'm talking about from this possibly unclear description.

[Zachary Hoyt]

Bandsaw for me too.

[Dwayne Watt]

I would eliminate the 1/2" flange shown at the top of the sketch and simply cut the groove deeper in the drawer front. This gives more strength to the pull.
Next, I would make these in pairs by cutting the now single (3.25 inch or 83 mm) wide groove (13 mm deep) in the 112 mm wide wood using your method of choice (dado blade, multiple passes with single blade, router, etc). Once the groove is cut, you flip the piece and cut the u-shaped wood in half lengthwise to create two L-shaped pieces. These L-shapes would be ripped once again on the table saw to create the large bevel. At this point you can create the small bevels with a block plane and then cut the handles to length.

[Rod Sheridan]

Pull handles for bird's eye maple drawers. 75 mm wide. Other dimensions on drawing. The angles cut will be about 15 degrees, all others square. Any suggestions on how to cut this safely? I like to work in MM but also added image with fractions 505664505665505666

Looks like a standard shaper application to me, 3 steps.

First, two rebates with a rebate head, then tilt the spindle with a rebate head a mill the bevel.

You could also do the two rebates on a saw with a dado stack and saw the bevel.

In both cases a complimentary outfeed fence could support the piece after milling.

Regards, Rod

[Prashun Patel]

Your grain needs to run parallel to the direction of the drawer movement. Otherwise you risk snapping the tenon. This happened to me.

It will be hard to machine a piece with the proper grain direction h less you find a really wide board.

I would either hand cut each piece or - better - make a built up pull (glued up) out of 3 separate pieces.

[mike calabrese]

This should make the work easier. Be sure to use good quality tape and replace the tape with each load of handles.
calabrese55505688

[Myles Moran]

I would start by cutting the bevel on the front with the table saw or handsaw, and cleaning up that face as required. I'd them set feather boards and slowly cut the two rabbits in a few shallow passes, sneaking up on the final dimensions. As long as the cuts are light enough, I'd feel comfortable trying to run it through the router to get that profile with the feather boards keeping it tight to the table and fence.

I'd try and keep the blanks for these handles to 2' or so. Enough to cut off any minor defects at the ends and get a number of usable handles out of the blanks, but not too long that they're hard to control as you're cutting them.

I also like Mike's idea about good double stick tape to give yourself a larger workpiece. That will help keep your hands away from any cutting tool.

[Michael Burnside]

Why not just make two of them? Then it’s a simple table saw action using a crosscut sled or dado blade to make the channel. Cut the bevel on a bandsaw or possibly table saw and finish by cutting it in half. Now you have two for the price of one and it was less complicated and safe.

[Steve Demuth]

Depends on how many you're making. If many, I'd cut them from long boards, paired widthwise with the rabbets in the center, and then rip the two sides apart before cutting the pieces to length. If you only need four or fewer, I'd cut the blanks to size, then cut the rabbets with handsaw and rabbet plane, and just plane the bevel. Won't take as long as setups on the table saw for just a couple.

[Prashun Patel]

Due respect to all the great ideas, but almost all of these ideas will end up with the grain running in the wrong direction. There is a high likelihood some of your tenons will snap when you pull on them.

I made a case with dovetailed drawer pulls that snapped because of this. Your grain - for that tenon needs to run perpendicular to the drawer face - not parallel to it (as most of these suggestions would end up with).

you are better off doing a glued up drawer pull with the grain running in the right direction.

[David Buchhauser]

Band saw was my first though as well.

David

[Michael Rutman]

Kapax or equivalent miter saw with depth stops. Start with a square piece and set the compound miter to the right angles and cut the vertical slots. Rotate to the side and cut the horizontal. Rotate again to cut all the way through to get the angles.

You will need to clamp it to a waste board for some if not all of your cuts.

[John Kananis]

You can make two at a time and keep the integrity (strength) of the handle. Cutting many from one long board will give you short grained handles - I promise they'll break eventually.

Cut stock to length x2 plus the blade kerf of the final pass that will separate the two.

Next, cut the bevels by whatever method is comfortable to you, tenon jig on the ts works great.

After the bevels are cut, install a dado blade. Using a sled, remove the waste from "both" pulls (I would remove the center waste first since it's the highest point and missing adjacent material could but probably wouldn't cause an issue).

Install a normal ts combo or crosscut blade and cut through the center for 2 drawer pulls.

Thinking about it, you can cut many from a single board this way but the stock is perpendicular to the blade so think about right and left space. Also, 1 cut on identical stock is less margin of error. Good luck.

[Jason White]

I’d use my bandsaw.

[Steve Demuth]

Due respect to all the great ideas, but almost all of these ideas will end up with the grain running in the wrong direction. There is a high likelihood some of your tenons will snap when you pull on them.

I made a case with dovetailed drawer pulls that snapped because of this. Your grain - for that tenon needs to run perpendicular to the drawer face - not parallel to it (as most of these suggestions would end up with).

you are better off doing a glued up drawer pull with the grain running in the right direction.

Good point, but running the grain perpendicular to the drawer front means you have end grain on the most visible surfaces of the pull, which isn't likely to be the look you want.

If the wood of the pulls isn't sufficiently split resistant (and other than maybe elm, I don't know what would be), then I'd still cut the pulls with the long grain across the drawer front, and embed dowels through the drawer into the pull, and upward from the bottom of the pull toward the bevel, to prevent splitting.

[Prashun Patel]

The taper will reduce the stark end grain (if you find it stark).

I did it in my closet and imho it looks better and more intentional than long grain.

I never understood why people don’t like to “show their end grain”.

[tim walker]

So I ended up cutting the taper on the TS from a square block of wood (mesquite in this case). Then I moved to the router table. My piece of wood is about 12" long. Routed out the interior portions to dimensions, leaving the front portion and rear at the same heights. Then carefully removed the last back portion easily on the router. Pic to follow.