Table top

[Mark Rainey]

Family member wants live edge table. Got some cherry slabs. Began to flatten face using scrub and jack planes for cup and twist, then stopped and decided to get edge joint without wind to join boards. Will try hide glue rub joint without clamps.

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[Christopher Charles]

Those are some lovely cherry planks! Are you on the hook for the base too, or just the top? :)

[Mark Rainey]

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Those are some lovely cherry planks! Are you on the hook for the base too, or just the top? :)

Thanks Chris! I am doing the base also. I needed to add another board in the middle to get the width for a dining room table. I used hot hide glue again after making sure both edges were not in wind. I used a rub joint on the edges and did not clamp. I know Warren and perhaps a couple other authentic Neanderthals have recommended this approach ( do not flatten face first, just get edges straight and not in wind ) but I have not seen any builds on this forum using this method.

[Tony Wilkins]

Not that I’m holding my build up as any sort of example. That’s what I did minus skimming the surfaces just a little. My table has six boards across (dining table).

[Mark Rainey]

Not that I’m holding my build up as any sort of example. That’s what I did minus skimming the surfaces just a little. My table has six boards across (dining table).

Tony, thanks for your comments. I looked at your walnut table build - how is it coming along?. In your thread you mention squaring an edge to the face. My edges are roughly square to the face, but not square if you put a try square on it. As Warren and Charles recommend, my edges are not in wind, they are flat planes that mate with the board next to it, but I have not attempted to get the edges perfectly square to the face.

[Tony Wilkins]

Tony, thanks for your comments. I looked at your walnut table build - how is it coming along?. In your thread you mention squaring an edge to the face. My edges are roughly square to the face, but not square if you put a try square on it. As Warren and Charles recommend, my edges are not in wind, they are flat planes that mate with the board next to it, but I have not attempted to get the edges perfectly square to the face.

First two board are now successfully glued. Had a false start because my liquid hide glue had gone bad. 9’ glue ups aren’t as simple as the look on YouTube I only did a slight bit on the faces to take the cup down slightly to check for wind and see grain. I didn’t do anything about bow.

[Christopher Charles]

First two board are now successfully glued. Had a false start because my liquid hide glue had gone bad. 9’ glue ups aren’t as simple as the look on YouTube I only did a slight bit on the faces to take the cup down slightly to check for wind and see grain. I didn’t do anything about bow.

LOL-I'm pretty sure the glue ups on YT aren't as easy as they end up looking on YT!

Mark, thanks for sharing. I used a similar approach several years ago on a couple of desktops (as recommended by Warren and Brian H.). I did get the faces sort of flat before edge joining and the approach helped keep the maximum amount of thickness on some walnut that was a bit thin to begin with. Will look forward to seeing your progress and design for the base.

Best,
Chris

[Mark Rainey]

First two board are now successfully glued. Had a false start because my liquid hide glue had gone bad. 9’ glue ups aren’t as simple as the look on YouTube I only did a slight bit on the faces to take the cup down slightly to check for wind and see grain. I didn’t do anything about bow.

Thanks for the info Tony. Yes, I imagine a 9 foot glue up would be challenging. I have not done much over 6 feet and that was challenging.

[Mark Rainey]

LOL-I'm pretty sure the glue ups on YT aren't as easy as they end up looking on YT!

Mark, thanks for sharing. I used a similar approach several years ago on a couple of desktops (as recommended by Warren and Brian H.). I did get the faces sort of flat before edge joining and the approach helped keep the maximum amount of thickness on some walnut that was a bit thin to begin with. Will look forward to seeing your progress and design for the base.

Best,
Chris

Chris, I did look back at your desktop thread, where you edge jointed before face flattening. Nicely done. I also got rid of some twist and cup on my boards before the edge jointing. I'm glad the technique is staying alive. With machines it is so easy to automatically think face jointing first, and edge jointing square to face, then joining. I would imagine getting a flat edge without wind would be difficult on a jointer without flattening the face first.

[Christopher Charles]

Thanks Mark, glad you could find the thread-that was a while ago!

I have noticed that I do better work on the machines as well because the approach can carry over to a degree. When I flatten faces, I don't just push the board through, but hit the high spots first (even if in the center) and can strategically place boards (while still braced with a point of contact on the fence) to achieve the same effect if edge jointing first. In other words, hand tools have made me a better power tool user :)

[Mark Rainey]

Table top cleaned up. Trimming end with bow saw.

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[Robert LaPlaca]

Mark, top looks beautiful, is the Cherry from Irion?

[Christopher Charles]

Agreed that it looks great and always surprising how light fresh cherry is-almost white!

[Mark Rainey]

Mark, top looks beautiful, is the Cherry from Irion?

Thanks Robert! I have been to Irion and picked up a beautiful 20 inch wide 12 foot mahogany board years ago. This is from Ordie Price's sawmill which is a lot closer to me in NE PA>


Agreed that it looks great and always surprising how light fresh cherry is-almost white!

Thanks Chris!