Jointer Fences for Hand Planes

[Eric Brown]

The first question when thinking about fences for jointer planes is: "Do you need one?". Well to be fair the answer could be definitely no, definitely yes, or maybe. Starting with the definitely no perspective, you can, with practice, use your fingers to shoot a board and then check it with a square, making adjustments as needed. You can also make a long shooting board and use your bench as a fence. In certain cases you can match plane two boards and they will match up regardless of the angle. These all work for a 90 degree angle. In the definitely yes group are people who have a lot of the same angle to do and wish to speed things up a little by not having to check for the accuracy of the angle. Then there is the maybe group. People whose eyes are starting to fail and the hands/arms are giving out. Thats when a fence can act like a crutch and help accomplish the task. So the following are examples of different fences and some details about them. Note: If the fence is not square to the plane by a little bit, you can sometimes tilt the blade (with lateral adjuster if it has one). You can also add beveled boards to most fixed fences for non-90 degree angles.

When installing a fence on a plane, keep it towards the nose end of the plane. It need to register before it cuts. Also, some fences may have interference with where your knob and tote are. They typically work best on longer planes in the 22" or longer sizes. In my pictures below you will see either #5 or #7 sized planes.

Starting with a simple one made out of plywood, I wanted to try a few things. First, I made it as long as my #7 Stanley. Its basically made of two 1/2" thick pieces of plywood glued together. The first piece is clamped to the side of the plane. It was shaped a little on the top for hand clearance. As is, it won't work well this way. Yes the board is 90 degrees to the bottom, but, the blade is inset from the side. So another plywood strip was added to the inside of the outer board. Again, it won't work this way well either. You see that extra board goes over the blade and needs a small clearance notch. Now it will work. This fence is 22" long by 2 1/2" wide. It weights 1lb 12oz. Trying it out on a 3/4" thick board it worked fine but felt a little off. Looking closer I realized that the plane was not centered on the board. So I added another 1/2" plywood filler strip with screws to make it removable. It feels much better now being centered. Removing the strip it centers well on a 1 1/2" board. If interested I can post pictures of the build.

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Looking at manufactured fences, starting with the earliest. Levi Alexander patented his design July 16, 1872 (#129,508). It was designed to be screwed to the side of wooden planes. It allowed a range of 45, 90, and 135 degrees. It also offered the ability to offset the fence about an inch inward. If desired, you can make some clamping blocks to mount to a metal plane. There are no holes for mounting a wooden face. The face measures 9 1/4" long by 2" high. It weights 1lb 11oz. It is unmarked but some examples indicate a label was stuck on and may have had gold pinstriping on the black jappaned fence. (This one has been nickel plated).

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The Alexander fence at some time was being manufactured by Langdon (of miter box fame). They were located on the Millers Falls property and sales were also handled by M-F. In 1904 Langdon introduced a replacement for the Alexander with one they called the "Perfection Jointer Gauge". This one was designed for metal planes and featured two cam locks to hold the fence to the plane. It is usually only marked on the adjust knob. It is 9 1/8" long by 2" high. Weights 1lb 14oz. (This one has been nickel plated).

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Millers Falls eventually bought Langdon and modified the fence slightly. They added their name to the fence along with the 88 model number. They also added a very handy side knob. It was manufactured until 1944. Its the same size as the Perfection but weights 1lb 15oz. (This one has been nickel plated).

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Stanley brought out their model 386 in 1913 that was patented by A.F. Schade on Apr 1, 1913 (#1,057,582). It uses two clamps to hold the fence to the side of the plane but also have two additional top screws pulling the fence up tight to the bottom of the plane. Most fences can be mounted to wooden planes by removing the clamps but this model would also require some notches to clear the additional screws. This fence is clearly marked on the fence with the Stanley 386 and patent date. Normally this fence was totally nickel plated from the factory. It has a handy side knob and screw holes for filler strips. It is 11" long by 2 1/4" high. It weighs 1lb 14oz.

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Stearns introduced several models. Not sure when they started selling these but they were in a 1924 catalog. The number 6 (not shown, is similar to the Perfection in size. The clamping was done either with the cam type or screws pointing down on the side edge of the plane. The one shown here is the number 7. It has three clamping points and was designed for wooden planes as well as the metal ones. It is 7" long by 1 3/4" high. It weights 1lb 2oz. (This one has been nickel plated).

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Not shown are the current ones from Lee Valley. They are made from cast aluminum. They have different models with some only for their planes. They do have a version that is only 90 degrees and magnets. The adjustable designed for other manufacturers should work fine.

One other not shown is by St. James Bay. Theirs is a cast bronze similar to the Stearns with top mounted clamping screws.

My preference would be the Stanley 386 and then the original Alexander. The Millers Falls is also good. The only ones I would recommend against are the real short ones (like the Stearns #7). The short ones just don't register as well.

[Warren Mickley]

I can't imagine someone skilled with a jointer plane wanting a fence. It is much more accurate to learn to plane than to depend on a fence to make an edge square to the face. In addition, when edge joining, we joint the edges before truing the faces, so a fence is useless.

[Eric Brown]

I can't imagine someone skilled with a jointer plane wanting a fence. It is much more accurate to learn to plane than to depend on a fence to make an edge square to the face. In addition, when edge joining, we joint the edges before truing the faces, so a fence is useless.

So you are in the definitely no camp. That's fine. No need to shame those who like them.

[Monte Milanuk]

In addition, when edge joining, we joint the edges before truing the faces, so a fence is useless.

Okay... I'll expose my newness/ignorance yet again: everything I've learned (books/videos/fumbling on my own at the bench) in the relatively short time I've been fiddling with hand tools usually starts with getting at least one side relatively flat, or at least free of cup/twist if not perfectly 'flat', *then* squaring the edge to that face. Is that wrong?

Not saying I'm a proponent of using the various fence attachments - although I've found using the bench as a sort of fence (https://youtu.be/12KkjX6IU20) to be kind of handy for thin stock.

[Eric Brown]

Okay... I'll expose my newness/ignorance yet again: everything I've learned (books/videos/fumbling on my own at the bench) in the relatively short time I've been fiddling with hand tools usually starts with getting at least one side relatively flat, or at least free of cup/twist if not perfectly 'flat', *then* squaring the edge to that face. Is that wrong?

Not saying I'm a proponent of using the various fence attachments - although I've found using the bench as a sort of fence (https://youtu.be/12KkjX6IU20) to be kind of handy for thin stock.

Hey, whatever works for you. As long as your making something, anything. Experience will add and subtract from your approach. For instance, if you insist on squaring the edge to a non flat surface are you really square? I would hate to square the face to the edge of a wide board. I personally prefer to flatten the board and then square the edges. To each his own. One thing not discussed is what if it's not a 90 degree angle you want? For instance, if you are making a hexagonal box. Thats where an adjustable fence comes in handy. Most will do it on a table saw (with a fence). Or make a special shooting board. Hard to do freehand. Not that it can't be done, its just harder.

[Monte Milanuk]

Eric,

I probably could/should have phrased that better; I'm not necessarily a proponent of using the various fence attachments, but I'm not firmly set against them either. I just haven't needed them - yet. That very well may change when I encounter some situation like you describe.

Monte

[Warren Mickley]

Generally if we have a board we want to true up we flatten a face side first and then flatten and square an edge to that face. This is because it is a lot easier to square the edge to the face than square a face to an edge.

When we are making an edge joint it is easier to make the joint first rather than truing faces. Otherwise you have to flatten the face of each board, make the joint and then flatten a face again. Once the board is all glued up, then flatten a face.

[steven c newman]

The crazy thing about these fences.....You can set them to a certain bevel angle....PLANE the bevel into the edges of as many boards as you need done....and the bevel will be the same on each and every board. This is what these fence were good at, more than just jointing the edge of a board.....and that is why they were designed to be able to plane at about any angle you needed.

Otherwise, just run your knuckles along UNDER the plane as a fence, with your left thumb hooked over the edge of the plane's base...just watch out for any splinters..

Yeah, that was the reason these fences were made and SOLD over the decades....NOT to help Joint a board's edge....

[Monte Milanuk]

Warren,

Gotcha. I'd seen various forms of that; just seemed like most did a *little* flattening to get the twist out before edge jointing.

Monte

[Mark Rainey]

Generally if we have a board we want to true up we flatten a face side first and then flatten and square an edge to that face. This is because it is a lot easier to square the edge to the face than square a face to an edge.

When we are making an edge joint it is easier to make the joint first rather than truing faces. Otherwise you have to flatten the face of each board, make the joint and then flatten a face again. Once the board is all glued up, then flatten a face.

This is not used much because most of us are not full Neanders like you Warren. I am going to try this approach for edge joining 2 cherry boards for a table top that are 6 feet long, 18 inches wide and 2 inches thick. The edges must be without wind. The faces of the board are not flat. Therefore a jointer fence would ruin my edge joint. Now the next question...if the edge joints look really good when one board is stacked on top of the other board, can I do a rub joint with hide glue without clamps?

[Richard Coers]

I'm in the need one camp,, and I have a couple. What if I want a 22 1/2 degree edge on an 80" board for the face frame of a corner cabinet. No way can I do that by eye over the entire length.

[Derek Cohen]

In 2011, I was gifted a 3" wide blade and cap iron. There was no option but to build a 36 1/2" long Cooper's Jointer ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/CoopersJointer_html_781967ee.jpg

To give you some idea of its size, here it is alongside a Stanley #7 jointer plane ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/CoopersJointer_html_m36d2149a.jpg

It was a bit of a handful to joint boards in the usual way (but it could) ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/CoopersJointer_html_m4ffb44f4.jpg

And so I built a fence for squaring. The intention was not to use it this way (although it could) ...


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/CoopersJointer_html_632ddcb1.jpg




http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/CoopersJointer_html_9acf06d.jpg

But, rather, to use is as a cooper would ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/CoopersJointer_html_m24d221a1.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/CoopersJointer_html_6c10fae1.jpg

Add on the fence, and it became a Neanderthal non-powered jointer :)

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/CoopersJointer_html_m80db958.jpg


I use this plane to flatten my bench every now-and-then. Makes for quick work.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rob Luter]

I rather like the idea of a fence. I've added an auxiliary fence to my plow plane and skewed rabbet to keep things square. The addition makes a difference.. Having one on a jointer plane might be a nice addition too. As it is now I use my #7 and get it as close to square as I can, then follow up with a LV Edge Plane to true up anything off kilter.

[steven c newman]

NOT useless, unless one hasn't a clue as to what the fences are used for....

They come with an angle finder scale...Why? NOT to set up a 90 degree edge....but IF one needs to do a LOT of beveled edges on LONG boards....you simply set the angle needed, lock the lock....and you can plane all day long at that angle..

The fences are NOT designed to flatten ANY board, ever...they are however a tool to use whenever an edge needs to be at a consistent bevel along it's entire length.

Say for instance: A table's top needs to have a bevel along the underside along all the edges...and all at the same angle...Set the fence to that angle, to where the fence rides on the edges of the top, and the plane's iron cuts a bevel....quite easy to set up and use.. yes, most fences were made to both tilt in either direction...at least the better made ones were.

Can not use a plane to flatten a twisted board, when the fence restricts you to just the edges,,,,and cannot reach into the center of that board because the fence will stop you.

While a fence is nice to help a jointer plane a square edge....it is not quite balanced right....and the plane tends to wobble along.

When I use a larger Jointer plane for a square, glue ready edge.....my index finger is riding along the face of the board, and my left thumb is hooked over the side of the plane. I can feel IF there is any wobble going on...at no time do I touch the front knob. To bring the plane back to "Start", I simply lift up on the tote, and pull back riding just on the end of the toe.

Set the fence to around 10-15 degrees, run the fence along the edge of a board...with the plane's iron making the cut on the face side of the board....and you can raise a panel fairly fast...depending on the size of the panel....you can fence a #4 on up to the large Door Panels...

Yep, those that say a fence is "useless"....usually have no clue in HOW to use them.

[David Carroll]

I had one for awhile, it worked okay. Kinda like training wheels on a bike. I stopped using after awhile, for the following reasons:

1. I did develop the skills Warren mentions. It just takes a few times, maybe a dozen or so. YMMV

2. For jointing panels I use the technique where you plane two boards face to face (like when book-matching) then joint the edges that'll be glued up together. When you open the "book" the resulting angles of each joint offsets each other and you wind up with a perfect planer panel, even if each joint is off a bit. So instead of 90-90 you get say 91-89. You do have to keep them all in order, particularly if you are making up a panel with more than two boards. There's a name for this technique that escapes me ATM.

3. These days I often take my last pass on my workbench with the board on two strips of lath running parallel to the joint, then use my jointer plane on its side. Basically like a big shooting board. As long as the iron is square to the side of the plane and the top of the bench is flat, a 90-degree angle will result.

Note: I do keep a long wooden jointer (try plane really) with no camber at all to the iron, just for shooting edges. I had it made for me by Clark and WIlliams a long time ago, and it's a thing of beauty.

DC

[Jim Koepke]

Tool makers were always looking for a new tool. An adjustable fence for a hand plane seemed a good idea to make planing edges to a predetermined angle seemed like a tool every person planing wood would want.

Like so many other new tools the jointer fence didn't have a lot of woodworkers beating paths or breaking down doorways to buy one. Otherwise, they would be more commonly found at yard sales and auction sites.

They are useful for many woodworkers.

Though more experienced woodworkers can square or bevel an edge without one. It is easy to mark out the edges of a bevel with a marking gauge and work to it. Many can even cut a perfect bevel by marking it on the ends of the workpiece. Those who make much molding do work similar to this all the time.

Once one has established a flat face on a board, it is fairly easy to square an edge.

Flattening the face first helps to prevent splinters when riding fingertips or knuckles along under the plane when squaring an edge.

At one time it was my hope to purchase a jointer gauge. After getting more experience with hand planes it occurred to me it wasn't needed.

jtk

[steven c newman]

So...did you even notice the degree scale on the fence?


The way to plane matching edges for a panel glue up....you fold the panel up like a book or a map....plane those edges then unfold back into a panel....requires you to clamp the 3-5 boards together like a book...because you will need to flip this over and jointer the other set of edges..BTDT...

Everyone seems to think a jointer fence is just for jointing an edge.....but,,why did the makers add an adjustment to where you can bevel a beveled edge? Which is the main design this fences were made for.....

To use it only for jointing a straight edge...is wasting most of the fences uses....

[steven c newman]

And waste half of the uses the fence was designed for.....Think about it, next time you want to add a bevel to the underside of the Dining Room Table's top...

The fence is not just for Jointing...it can FIT on a Jointer Plane, sure....but some will also work on Jack Planes...and a few work on smaller planes...

Maybe try one when raising a panel?

[Richard Coers]

Tool makers were always looking for a new tool. An adjustable fence for a hand plane seemed a good idea to make planing edges to a predetermined angle seemed like a tool every person planing wood would want.

Like so many other new tools the jointer fence didn't have a lot of woodworkers beating paths or breaking down doorways to buy one. Otherwise, they would be more commonly found at yard sales and auction sites.

They are useful for many woodworkers.

Though more experienced woodworkers can square or bevel an edge without one. It is easy to mark out the edges of a bevel with a marking gauge and work to it. Many can even cut a perfect bevel by marking it on the ends of the workpiece. Those who make much molding do work similar to this all the time.

Once one has established a flat face on a board, it is fairly easy to square an edge.

Flattening the face first helps to prevent splinters when riding fingertips or knuckles along under the plane when squaring an edge.

At one time it was my hope to purchase a jointer gauge. After getting more experience with hand planes it occurred to me it wasn't needed.

jtk
How do you know they weren't turned in during the WWII scrap drives since power machinery had taken over that task. How you come up with that not beating a path to the door is beyond me. Myself and others have explained how we use it, and it has value to us. But you can just stay with your believe it is a waste of $20 I needed to buy one.

[Eric Brown]

How do you know they weren't turned in during the WWII scrap drives since power machinery had taken over that task. How you come up with that not beating a path to the door is beyond me. Myself and others have explained how we use it, and it has value to us. But you can just stay with your believe it is a waste of $20 I needed to buy one.

Consider that the first tool Lie-Nielsen made was a plane with a fence and Lee Valley also made one at the beginning. Now Lee Valley is also making fences for bench planes. You would think that they thought they were useful or they wouldn't make them. Sales must be ok because they still make them. Even make special ones for their planes. Like I said at the beginning of this post there are ways around not having a fence, but there are times when it's useful. In the end there is no shame in using or not using a fence. I respect those who have a different opinion. Everybody's right, nobody's wrong.

[David Carroll]

I agree with Jim on this point. The fact that you don't see them everywhere, at every garage sale and antique store (the way you do planes, for example) suggests they were not in widespread use. This leads me to the conclusion that most woodworkers find them unnecessary. No judgement here, by the way. If you have one and like using it, there's nobody telling you not to, (well, Warren maybe). But we give our opinions freely, which you are free to ignore.

Your idea that they may have been turned in for scrap during WWII actually supports the idea that woodworkers didn't find them very useful, because they apparently didn't turn many planes in, given how many are left.

I mentioned in an earlier post that at one time I had one and liked it. It worked fine. But at the time I only had one jointer and used it in a variety of operations, some of which the fence would be in the way. Putting the fence on and off got to be a nuisance. So I stopped using it. I struggled making square edges for a bit but got better at it and never used it again. My ex sold it on Ebay.

I never thought of using it for making long bevels or chamfers, though I don't include these regularly in my work, and when I do I use the methods that Jim outlines, but I am sure that it would work fine.

You didn't waste your money and if you only paid $20 for it you did well. I paid that for mine in the late 1970s and it sold for $75.00 a couple of years ago.

DC

[Prashun Patel]

I own a Veritas bevel up jointer plane and also the fence for it.

For one-off joints, it's too finikcy to set up. It's easier just to joint "freehand" and measure for square. It's not that hard, and very satisfying.

I do use the fence sometimes, but it too is not perfect; it has to be set up just so, and rechecked every so often. So I find myself using the fence in conjunction with freehanding. I might start off with the fence to get close, and then free hand to finish once the majority of the edge has been squared.

I do like having the option when I need the assist.

[Mark Rainey]

I have and still use fences at times. For the woodworker who does not joint often enough or has never learned to have confidence they can be helpful. But they are training wheels. They can interfere with skill development. So we have to be honest ( in Neanderthal land ). To those very skilled in hand tool work, when they see a fence, they see an adult on a bike with training wheels. I believe Tom King said something to the effect that if you bring your fence to the job site, you might also wear a dress to work.

[Reed Gray]

For me, the learning process is to get it as close as I can by eye and feel, then make it 'perfect' with the fence. After all, that is what they are for, at least to me. I have a hard time getting the blade dead on square to the sole than anything else. I don't have the 'feel' for that, yet. As I was reading the comments, I was thinking about using one of the track saw set ups as a track for a plane..... Hmm...

robo hippy

[steven c newman]

So...IF I need a 12 degree bevel ( like when I do raise panels by hand) AND I also had one of those adjustable fences......how would YOU plane it, and have it the same all the way around that panel?

The fence is just like any other tool..it..is..just..a..tool.

Sheesh...

[Mark Rainey]

If you need ANY bevel, use a BEVEL gauge, or sliding bevel. Leave the fence in the basement or closet.

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Mark out your lines with your BEVEL gauge, plane to line ( can remove bulk with handsaw ).

[Jim Koepke]

So...IF I need a 12 degree bevel ( like when I do raise panels by hand) AND I also had one of those adjustable fences......how would YOU plane it, and have it the same all the way around that panel?

The same way as always, after all you have the adjustable fence not me.

The angle would be lain out on the edges at the ends and drawn all around the edges of side to be beveled. This could be done in pencil or with a light hand on a marking gauge or panel gauge.

If one wants the raised part of the panel to have a distinct border, it can be defined by a rabbet plane before the bevel is cut.

The ends should be done first since they are more likely to have blow out to be cleaned up when the sides running with the grain are beveled.

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This was one of my early raised panels. I knew nothing about proportions or other fundamentals of raising a panel. This was done with a #16 rounding plane and a #5 or #6 bench plane. A fence was not used.

The borders around the raised field should all be of equal size. We learn from our mistakes. :eek:d

jtk

[steven c newman]

Not really what I was talking about...

I tend to do those 12 degree bevels be marking 2 lines...1 along the edge, and the second one in the "field" and both are lines I plane TO...

As for a Fence.....never even OWNED one...doesn't mean I don't know HOW to used one...to paraphrase Matt. Quiggley....


505416
Panels I deal with...YMMV, of course..

[Eric Brown]

Added one more fence to the group. It's a Buckeye that is 8 1/2" long by 2" wide. Probably made by the Buckeye Vise and Saw Company. It is similar the Stearns. Not sure if it originally had clamps or not.

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Here it is attached to a Buckeye Vise & Saw #5 plane made for Fulton. The clamps are homemade.

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[Richard Hutchings]

I recently jointed a back and top set for a dreadnought guitar. I started with a big shooting board, basically, a fence. Maybe not exactly because the planing was done on the side instead of on top. I just couldn't get a good joint doing this so I stuck the boards side be side in my vise and planed them knuckle under. of course they did not have to be perfectly square but, it made all the difference as far as getting the joint flat with no gaps. I used a #3 Stanley and loved the process. Candled the joints and the were perfect.

I have all of the larger planes and sometimes like to use my $20 wooden jointer for this.

[Jimmy Harris]

I never had a need for a jointer fence. The closest I've come is building some donkey ears for my shooting board. But even then, it has only been because I was mitering lots of end grain and needed precise and consistent angles.

But if I ever did need a fence on a jointer plane, or something like that, I'd probably just clamp a board to the side. Maybe cut a rabbet into the fence or attach a secondary piece so that I could get the iron all of the way to the edge. I don't think it would be something I'd use often enough to justify the space, let alone cost, of buying a purpose made tool. Never mind the time lost buying one.

But, you know, everyone's different. I'm kind of a minimalist when it comes to buying tools. And I enjoy the process more than the product. So figuring out a way to make what I have work has an appeal to me that buying a rarely used tool doesn't.

[steven c newman]

Everyone seems to forget that a jointer fence is NOT just for 90 degree chores ( Your knuckles can do THAT same job quite easily)


However, IF you need to add a bevel to and edge at a certain angle other than 90 degrees? Piece of scrap c clamped to the side of a plane just ain't getting it. (BTDT) Plus, IF you have a lot of said bevel edges to make, and have them all consistent...THAT is where an Adjustable fence shines..

Beveled edges on the lid of a Writing Desk? Hmmmm....set the fence, and go to it...

As for that "Knuckles"....I wrap my left thumb over the left edge of the plane ( a LOT) more like just hook it over...the knuckle on your fingers will then ride along the board, underneath the plane's sole. Yes, you can tell when things are NOT 90 degrees..your hand will tell you that..try it sometime.

So..maybe there IS a clue as to what a fence is meant to be used for....as most are made to be adjustable ...some even in both directions from 90 degrees. Why limit your self? AND the tool?

[Jimmy Harris]

However, IF you need to add a bevel to and edge at a certain angle other than 90 degrees? Piece of scrap c clamped to the side of a plane just ain't getting it.

You can always plane or cut an angle on that piece of scrap pretty easily to get whatever angle you need.

[steven c newman]

The fence on a Jointer Plane does the exact same things that the fence on your powered Jointer does.....it is guide, it is a tool, nothing more.

Currently, I do have a Stanley No. 7c.....the left cheek had been drilled and tapped to hold a fence LONG ago ( plane IS a Type 9) so, someone must have found a use for such things as a fence for the Jointer Plane.....and most of the plane makers back then SOLD quite a few fences.

They do come in handy, IF you have a lot of edges to bevel/joint...and it is a repeatable jig....rather than clamp up some pieces of scraps, and hope you get the angles correct.

The fence is just a tool, nothing more. (Now, IF Veritas made such a tool...imagine all the "glowing reviews" it would get..)

YMMV, of course...

[Cliff Polubinsky]

Now, IF Veritas made such a tool...imagine all the "glowing reviews" it would get..

I just checked and Veritas makes 5 fences.

Cliff

[Jim Koepke]

Then of course there are other ways of making consistent angles.

507584

This was an easy set up and the angle could be adjusted by taking a few shavings if needed.

507583

The test fit indicated the calculations worked.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Like I keep saying...the Jointer Fence is merely a TOOL, rather someone uses it or not, is up to them, entirely....way too many ways out there, to skin the same cat.
Set and forget
Purpose made one-off
MKII Eyeball...

Plane the same exact bevel on a few hundred feet of Molding by hand...

[steven c newman]

Just watched a YT video from Wood by Wright(?) 2 years old, BTW....where he showed everything you'd ever want to know about a Stanley Jointer Fence..

Whether anyone here WANTS to watch it...does not matter to me....nor do I care how "Pitiful" some on here might think it is (IF they even watched it at all)

Just a FI....do with it as you see fit...

Me? I will put one on my Rust Hunt list of things to keep an eye out for...I am sitting beside a Video Cabinet that has a 3/4" x 11" x 20" Ash raised Panel in it's door...that a handplane was used by me to actually "raise" the panel....A fence would have made thinks so much easier...DAMHIKT..

[Warren Mickley]

...Plane the same exact bevel on a few hundred feet of Molding by hand...

Something tells me you haven't been making a hundred feet of the same molding by hand. Using a jointer for making a bevel like this is awfully clumsy and would get old pretty fast. This isn't the way Peter Nicholson described making a molding in 1812, and in fact a fence like you are describing does not show up in historic texts or historic tools.

When Ken Wisner started what would later become Lie Nielsen Tools, he started with the No. 95 Edge trimming block plane. Not because it was useful but because it found little use. So few were made originally (low demand), that collectors bid them up and Wisner found a market of guys who wanted one but didn't want to pay collector's prices.

[Eric Brown]

Just watched a YT video from Wood by Wright(?) 2 years old, BTW....where he showed everything you'd ever want to know about a Stanley Jointer Fence..

Whether anyone here WANTS to watch it...does not matter to me....nor do I care how "Pitiful" some on here might think it is (IF they even watched it at all)

Just a FI....do with it as you see fit...

Me? I will put one on my Rust Hunt list of things to keep an eye out for...I am sitting beside a Video Cabinet that has a 3/4" x 11" x 20" Ash raised Panel in it's door...that a handplane was used by me to actually "raise" the panel....A fence would have made thinks so much easier...DAMHIKT..

Thats a good video Steven. Thank you for sharing. My main reason for starting this thread was to compare different vintage models available. I agree that the Stanley 386 is probably the best. Things to watch out for are missing clamps. If your handy shaping metal you can make replacements. The knob adds a level of comfort. The Millers Falls model also has a knob but the fence is a little shorter in length. The shorter fences are lighter and don't adjust as easily. The Veritas ones look pretty good but being aluminum may show wear quicker if used heavily. The Stanley being the heaviest helps keep it against the wood.

[steven c newman]

How the bloody ell would you know....

I lived in a lot of Old Homes including the current one...

Staring right now at a 3 window wall....narrows on each side...flanking the wider one in the middle.....with a LOT of millwork in-between. Been doing this sort of work since the 1960s, helping my dad..Could NOT care less about how someone did a task in 1812...more concerned about doing this sort of task in 2023!


Just got done rehabbing a Block plane enough, to test drive on some scrap Ash...
507605
Kind of doubt this was used back in 1812.....but it will get used NOW.

[steven c newman]

Hmmm, back in the day.....did they not just use Spring Line on the toe of a molding plane? Must have been hard to see on a 22" long "Gluing Plane" as Moxxon called it...

Didn't they also just screw a "fence" to the wooden side of a plane? Or, did they have bolts for that, back then.

I do have a 22" Sandusky No. 81 Jointer plane in the shop....with a Butcher double iron, no less.....Much prefer my Stanley No. 8c....YMMV ( and Century)

[Jim Koepke]

Hmmm, back in the day.....did they not just use Spring Line on the toe of a molding plane?

Yes, though the "spring line" on the toe of a molding plane was to indicate vertical on the plane for both the maker and the end user.


Must have been hard to see on a 22" long "Gluing Plane" as Moxxon called it...

Hard? Try impossible since a spring line was mostly used on molding planes made to be used at an angle to vertical. "Gluing planes (jointer) and most other planes didn't have spring lines.


Didn't they also just screw a "fence" to the wooden side of a plane?

A very low percentage of old planes show this kind of modification. Most often it occurred on rabbet planes to decrease the width of an area being worked. Most workers either learned how to use a rabbet plane without a fence or purchased a fillister plane.

In my years of rust hunting many bench planes, including jointers have been found. I do not recall seeing a single plane fence other than on ebay. Seeing the price they got on ebay, my eyes were always searching for one. Even brushing aside cob webs to look into the shadowy places under benches or in the back of cabinets in hopes of finding one to score some extra money. None ever appeared.

Running a matching bevel over numerous pieces has never been a great challenge for me. My skills are likely in the range of average hobbyist. Surely most woodworkers with a bit of skill could do the same without a lot of effort.

BTW steven, which model of jointer fence is it you use?

jtk

[steven c newman]

Left thumb to hook over the side...left index finger's knuckle as a guide.....was starting to get tired of "wear marks" on that knuckle.....Maybe go ask the OP what ones HE uses?

There IS a quote from Qiggly downunder you MIGHT want to check out....

"Just because I don't have a use for one, does not mean I do not know how.."

[Mike Allen1010]

Generally if we have a board we want to true up we flatten a face side first and then flatten and square an edge to that face. This is because it is a lot easier to square the edge to the face than square a face to an edge.

When we are making an edge joint it is easier to make the joint first rather than truing faces. Otherwise you have to flatten the face of each board, make the joint and then flatten a face again. Once the board is all glued up, then flatten a face.

+1 me too

[Mike Allen1010]

Just add a little fuel to the fire, Lee Valley makes a magnetic fence that attaches to the edge of a jointer plane. I think it's a super helpful training aid that gives the students of feel for what "horizontal" is. Different horses for different courses.

[steven c newman]

Ah...but...can you adjust it to plane angle/bevels too?