Cap iron

[Roger Bailey]

I have an older Stanley #8 hand plane and would like to upgrade the iron and cap iron. Can someone give me any recommendations. I would like something a little heavier than the stock ones.

[James Owen]

I have an older Stanley #8 hand plane and would like to upgrade the iron and cap iron. Can someone give me any recommendations. I would like something a little heavier than the stock ones.

Roger,

There are several choices: most seem to go with either a Hock iron and chip breaker or with a Lie-Nielsen iron and chip breaker. Both are excellent and the cost is approximately the same (for the A-2 cryo irons plus chip breaker, you're looking at about $75 +/-). Hock's high carbon irons and chip breakers are slightly less expensive (about $5 to $10 less, if I remember correctly).

I prefer the LN. It seems to handle cranky grain a bit better and the chip breaker has a small ledge on the leading edge that mates with the iron very tightly. If you buy the LN, make sure you get the right iron. LN makes replacement irons for their own planes (very thick -- 1/8th" to 3/16th") and Stanley replacement irons (thinner, but thicker than stock Stanley -- about 0.090"). You'll want the 0.090", unless you intend to modify the mouth of your plane. The chipbreaker is the same one for either iron.

Otherwise, you could go with some of the custom made irons and chip breakers, but they tend to be pretty pricey.

Hope this helps.

James

[Roy Wall]

Roger,

Lie Nielson has a great assortment of blades and chipbreakers for all the Stanley planes. These are thicker than the original Stanleys and will be of benefit to your planing (They are purposely not at thick as on the LN becrock planes they make - they would not fit). Look them up and give them a call.

I do not know who makes replacement cap irons though....

Ron Hock (do a google on Hock plane blades) also makes blades and chipbreakers - so check them out too.

These NEW chipbreakers do not have the curved ends......they actually look like another blade.

[Mike Henderson]

Be careful that the new blade will fit before you purchase. Many of the "upgrade" blades are quite a bit thicker than the original Stanley blade. To use the thicker blades, you have to move the frog back some distance so that there is clearance between the blade and the front of the mouth of the plane. Remember that bench planes are "bevel down" so the thickness of the blade matters.

Some older Stanley planes have a rib cast in the middle of the main plane body under the frog that will interfer with the blade when you move the frog back a lot, and prevent the blade from bedding on the frog. There are two solutions, both of which ruin the value of the plane in the resale market: (1) file back the front of the mouth to open it up enough to fit the thicker blade, or (2) grind off some of the rib under the frog.

Take your plane to the store when you buy the blade and try it before you buy.

Mike

Added note: This problem only occurs on early Bailey planes, like the type 11. You won't encounter it on a Bedrock because of the design of the bed on the Bedrock frogs.

[Michael Fross]

I picked up a new blade and chipbreaker from Hock from my sweetheart #4 smoother. It makes a huge difference.

I've been really happy with Hock. The blade and chipbreaker from the LN #7 I got over Christmas (stealth gloat) also is very good.

Michael

[Hank Knight]

Roger,

I replaced the original blades and chipbreakers on several of my Stanley planes with LN Blades and chipbreakers. I had problems with the chipbreakers not fitting on a #603 and a #604 Bedrock, but they fit fine on the Baileys. I don't own an #8, but the LNs did fine on my #7 and I don't think you would have a problem with your #8. If you do, LN is very accommodating and will work out a solution for you. When I called them about my 603 chipbreaker not fitting properly, they were prepared to send me a new one, specially machined to my 603's dimensions, free of charge. I thanked them, but kept the first one to put it on a Bailey #3 (it fit the Bailey just fine) and paid for the new one. There was no extra charge for the special machining. The new blades and chipbreakers make a real difference in the performance of the planes.
I can't recommend LNs over Hocks, Both are nice upgrades and I have both. I just wanted to comment on LN's excellent customer service. I have had no isues with Hock, so I can't comment their customer service.
Hank

[tod evans]

i`m a fan of hock......02 tod

[Brad Schmid]

Hi Roger,

Here's a similar discussion from last June along the same lines as your question:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=21304&

Dan Forman posted a good link during the discussion that points to test data on various irons. It's worth a read.

I have a #4 1/2 with LN iron and chipbreaker and a #4 with Hock blade and Clifton 2-piece chipbreaker. I like both setups.
Cheers,
Brad

[Mark Stutz]

Roger,
Unless the cap iron is trashed, you might try it first with just the new iron. I have a type 20 #5 that took a lot of work, but is now my go to jack. If needed, I could get .001 shavings with it. Used a Hock blade with the original cap iron. If it doesn't do the job you can always get the cap iron. This way you could outfir two planes with new iron if needed.

Mark

[Alan Turner]

I put a new Hock iron and cap iron on my 604C from the early 30's and it was a wonderful upgrade. No problem on the fit. It just went right in and started singing.