How to fix this screw up?

[Abdul Azeez]

Hello folks - I am in the process of making a hidden door book case. I test fit the assembly and it fits with the only issue below. I am using pivot hinges. The bottom hinge is not exactly aligned with the top due to which it looks like the door is slightly leaning. The place where this will create an issue is I am planning to attach a 1x3 on the left side so that it also acts as a door stopper to stop the door from swinging inside and also act like a molding. If you look at the pictures below you will see the inclined angle. How do I fix this? If I attached the molding on this there will be a gap at the top and no gap at the bottom. The pivot hinge install at the top is complex and I don't want to dig more holes there. Can I bump up with a few additional layers of wood on the top and then attach the molding and caulk it?504423504424504425

[Rob Luter]

In my view hinge relocation is really the only option. You could fix the top, or adjust the bottom to match the top. Neither one is much fun but I'm guessing this door will be in service for a lot longer than it will take you to make it right.

[Lee Schierer]

I agree with Rob, Align the pivot points. A plumb bob might prove useful in getting the pivots perfectly aligned. Walls in buildings are not always plumb. Some times you can add stock to the back outside edge of trim that you scribe and trim by hand to compensate for walls that are out of plumb or not perfectly flat.

[Abdul Azeez]

In my view hinge relocation is really the only option. You could fix the top, or adjust the bottom to match the top. Neither one is much fun but I'm guessing this door will be in service for a lot longer than it will take you to make it right.

If I move the bottom to align with the top it will not be flush with wall. My intent was to add a trim piece to the door to make it a door stopper on the non hinge side. If I relocate the bottom and I not creating an out of flush with the wall all over?

[Malcolm McLeod]

If I move the bottom to align with the top it will not be flush with wall. My intent was to add a trim piece to the door to make it a door stopper on the non hinge side. If I relocate the bottom and I not creating an out of flush with the wall all over?

Can't view the pics and never built such a hidden door/bookcase, but from re-hanging a 'faulty' door or two, I'd think your first priority should be alignment of the pivots. If they don't align then the door will try to swing on it's own. Perhaps it will try to close, perhaps it tries to open - - but if your projects are like mine, it will try to be where you don't want it - - sooner or later. So, align the pivots, make sure the door is plumb, even under load, doesn't rack or otherwise wreck your hard work. It should stay where you swing it.

Then scribe the trim to the wall - no matter how flawed or out-of-plumb the wall might be.

[Rob Luter]

If I move the bottom to align with the top it will not be flush with wall. My intent was to add a trim piece to the door to make it a door stopper on the non hinge side. If I relocate the bottom and I not creating an out of flush with the wall all over?

If you relocate the bottom you create a condition where the door panel is coplanar with the wall on all four sides. Then you can apply your trim all the way around and give the appearance it was intentional. If it was me I'd probably plug the screw holes on top , reset the hinge, and chalk it up to experience.

[Abdul Azeez]

I have corrected the situation and the door sits square within the opening. However the left side wall is not aligned with the right side wall. So when I place a piece of trim on the left side of the bookshelf so that it also acts as a stop against the wall and does not let the door swing to the other side I expect the trim to have an overhang over the wall and sit flush with the bookshelf. When the bookshelf opens it will open along with the bookshelf. But I see an uneven gap like that shown in the second picture. How do I fill this up? I tried wedging thin pieces but it doesn't work. Any other better way? I have seen scribing techniques but I am not sure it will apply here.

[Kevin Jenness]

I tried wedging thin pieces but it doesn't work. Any other better way? I have seen scribing techniques but I am not sure it will apply here.

Glue a 1" strip to the back of the trim piece, then cut it to the correct taper to fill the gap.

How do you plan to trim the other three sides of the opening?

If it's not essential to have the case swing out into the room you might consider trimming it out conventionally and mounting a closely fit door with Euro hinges mounted to the bookcase. If you are set on a pivoting case it will need a substantial back to keep from racking

(edit) I see you will be attaching a face panel to the case which will take care of the racking issue.

[Abdul Azeez]

Glue a 1" strip to the back of the trim piece, then cut it to the correct taper to fill the gap.

How do you plan to trim the other three sides of the opening?

If it's not essential to have the case swing out into the room you might consider trimming it out conventionally and mounting a closely fit door with Euro hinges mounted to the bookcase. If you are set on a pivoting case it will need a substantial back to keep from racking,

I tried gliding 3/4 inch plywood and then 1/2 inch plywood. The issue is the gap is not uniform. So when the door closes it is snug at top but has a gap at the bottom. How do I cut a taper?

The only trim that will go on the door is the left side. All other trims will be on wall.

[Kevin Jenness]

. How do I cut a taper?

The only trim that will go on the door is the left side. All other trims will be on wall.

Any number of ways to cut the taper. I would use a sliding tablesaw. You could also use a bandsaw, jigsaw, hand ripsaw, a taper jig on a tablesaw, a broadaxe, a jointer or a power plane, depending on what you have and are comfortable using.

Actually you should build out tapered scribe strips behind your trim pieces where they meet the wall so that they are in a plane parallel to the cabinet, otherwise the front panel on your case will be set in a twisted frame. This is a great example of the challenges of fitting built-in casework into a poorly framed wall.

May I ask why you are building a pivoting cabinet rather than a conventional fixed case with a door? It will be difficult to maintain a tight fit between the casing attached to the bookshelf and the two horizontal pieces, and you will have reveals between the door panel and the stationary casings in either scenario.

[Cameron Wood]

I did one of those a while back with similar issue- the wall at one side was not in plane with the wall at the other side.

It was a sheetrock opening with corner bead so also not very flat where the trim landed.

I ended up making the strike side land as well as possible on the wall, and fitted a tapered rip to fill the gap on the pivot side- it was painted.

It's a pretty crude mechanism- maintain low expectations.

I think I cut the taper filler freehand on the tablesaw.

[Lee Schierer]

I tried gliding 3/4 inch plywood and then 1/2 inch plywood. The issue is the gap is not uniform. So when the door closes it is snug at top but has a gap at the bottom. How do I cut a taper?

The only trim that will go on the door is the left side. All other trims will be on wall.

You can easily cut long tapered pieces on a table saw. You will need a piece of plywood as long or slightly longer than the piece you are trying to cut. Rip that piece of plywood so both long sides are parallel, then don't move your fence. Then measure the gap at the fat end of the gap you need to fill. Place strips of double sided tape on you long piece of plywood. Attach your piece of wood to the piece of plywood so the fat end overhangs the edge of the plywood by the dimension you need plus a heavy 1/8" for your saw kerf. Over hang the skinny end of the tapered piece a heavy 1/8". Then rip off the overhang on your table saw. You should end up with a perfectly tapered piece of wood.

[Bill Dufour]

You could always replaster the wall to fit. Good luck matching the texture of the old plaster. My old house was 1/2" button board with a 1/2" of hard coat plaster on top of that.
Bill D

[andrew whicker]

Is this doorway getting a jamb? I'm a bit confused. It looks like the person walking thru would see studs and drywall edges?

[andy bessette]

You could always replaster the wall to fit...

IIUC, a simple rabbet on the trim frame, tapered to realign one side to the other, will do it.

[Abdul Azeez]

Project done. Picture attached and video link shared below.
https://youtube.com/shorts/uZv_mjWiRGg?feature=share3

[Rob Luter]

I think it looks great.