My Push Block

[Tom Bender]

I thought a heavy push block would give me control so I used this piece of Oak for a while, till it flew past my head.

504243

One way kickback happens is the workpiece is allowed to lift above the table by a little bit, then gets sucked down into he teeth which can launch it. That happened to my push block because it was longer than the workpiece.

Now I use this block, shown here in oops position. It is a big block of Balsa with an Oak tab on the back and a Pine handle on top. It's immune to this particular mistake, and it's a terrific push block. I made one for a friend with foam instead of Balsa. Works great, just be careful what glue you use. 4" x 6" x 24"

504244

Here I am using a thin side push stick to hold the work against the fence.

504245

The attached thumbnail shows a push stick in a position to get driven into my hand. Not recommended.

And I don't let any plastic or metal onto the table for fear of shrapnel.

[Warren Lake]

there all crappy

[Andrew Hughes]

I never use a push stick to move the wood from the end.
Always on the surface slightly towards the fence and if it’s a long rip I have second stick in my other hand to reposition the stick controlling the wood.
This is advanced woodworking skills that takes years to develop :)

[Cameron Wood]

Your giant push block covers up the blade and the stock so you can't see what's happening. How do you know if the material is even against the fence?

[John TenEyck]

Your giant push block covers up the blade and the stock so you can't see what's happening. How do you know if the material is even against the fence?

You don't have to see the wood to know where. If you hold the piece down and against the fence you already know where it is. This is a common reason to argue against using a guard, false as the argument is. If you need to use a feather board to assure yourself the workpiece is firmly against the fence, then use one. Anything it takes to use a guard.

John

[Cameron Wood]

You don't have to see the wood to know where. If you hold the piece down and against the fence you already know where it is. This is a common reason to argue against using a guard, false as the argument is. If you need to use a feather board to assure yourself the workpiece is firmly against the fence, then use one. Anything it takes to use a guard.

John



Well by that reasoning, you could use opaque safety glasses.

[Mark Hennebury]

Surprised anyone has any fingers left.

[Keegan Shields]

Interesting solution Tom. I like to see what others use and add it to the mental idea bank.

I’ve been through a ton of different shop made push blocks, and have settled on the MicroJig one for ripping on the TS. I resisted purchasing it for a long time due to the cost, but it really works well. Other than cost, it does require that you take a second to configure it to your cut.

But when properly set up, it allows you to maintain control of the workpiece and the offcut. I also use their other style of push block (the one with the drop down tabs) on the jointer and bandsaw (while resawing). I highly recommend both.

[Ole Anderson]

Narrow enough to miss the blade and long enough to keep the stock from lifting. Push sticks ought to be banned.

[Jim Becker]

Push blocks with handles to keep the fingers secure can be made in a variety of thicknesses to best support the width of the material being pushed along the fence. "Just one" is not enough... Many folks have been pretty creative with the designs, too, just for fun. FourEyes, on the 'Tube, has them looking like sneakers in the same manner that the one that Ole shows as a hand saw handle design.

[George Yetka]

I dont often use a pushblock/stick for anything over 3" or so. when things get smaller I use a benchdog small pushstick and usually a pencil eraser. if Im doing alot of something I use the Jessem clear cut. I feel safer with this formula than alternatives.

For super fines Ive been eying the Woodpecker Thin rip guide, but I dont do much cutting in small sizes like that.

[glenn bradley]

It is always interesting to hear different ideas on tools and operations. The idea that one has to see the cut on a tablesaw always gives me a grin. The tablesaw is a fixed plane machine. The blade, fence and table are where they are, they don't change. As long as the material is pressed to the table and fence while moving through the blade there isn't much you have to see. It's not like your going to alter the feed path mid-cut.

Long or skinny push sticks are just plain dangerous IMHO. Blocks require a friction pad, a tail hook, or both as Tom discovered. Blocks longer or larger than the material are fine as long as the pressure is over the material so as not to tip. I enjoy people's clever designs that mimic saw handles, shoes, and so forth. This makes things fun. We certainly do more than one thing on the tablesaw and needing more than one style of pusher seems pretty obvious. I have an array of shapes, sizes, and functions.

504268

Something I see done that may be worth mentioning. Using a well designed narrow push tool on wider stock. This requires some consideration as to the position of the forward push-point. That is, pushing a 6" piece between fence and blade with a narrow push block too far to the right or left can result in kickback.

504269

Anything over 4" and I reach to a wide block or pad as opposed to the narrow pushers I would use for ripping thinner parts. This is an area where it pays to not be over opinionated, look at everything, and use the methods that suit your situation best. Let's play safe out there :).

[John Kananis]

Glenn, the issue in the last pic is pushing wide stock from the fence side, which pushes the piece into the blade (inadvertently). Pushing from the center point to the left of the piece (so the push stick is closer to the blade and further from the fence) will give a safer cut.

[Cameron Wood]

I've used these for many years without incident. They cost $2 at the lumber yard, last quite a while, and stand out visually. I've made various wooden ones, but have come to prefer these.

Never had one fly past my head, and there is no "oops position".


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[Lee Schierer]

Here's my push stick. I've made a number of them for other woodworkers.
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[John TenEyck]

Well by that reasoning, you could use opaque safety glasses.

You could, actually, once the wood is on the table and against the fence. If your fence is accurate, you set the width you need, hold the stock against the fence, and it will come out the width you want. There's no need to see the blade cutting the wood.

John

[John TenEyck]

Surprised anyone has any fingers left.

Your chances of losing one, or more, is greatly reduced if you use a well fitted guard and practice proper technique. Your hands should never get near the blade. I'm not a poster child for avoiding all risks, but I try to avoid making the ones that have a high probability of significant consequences.

John

[Edward Weber]

I use the Grr-Rippers (https://www.microjig.com/products/grr-ripper) and one like Ole posted. My digits are all still in tact.

[Mark Hennebury]

Define "near the blade"


Your chances of losing one, or more, is greatly reduced if you use a well fitted guard and practice proper technique. Your hands should never get near the blade. I'm not a poster child for avoiding all risks, but I try to avoid making the ones that have a high probability of significant consequences.

John

[Jerry Bruette]

Define "near the blade"

"near the blade" is pretty subjective. Knowing that you have thousands of hours in the shop let's hear your opinion of "near the blade"

[Mark Hennebury]

"Near" depends on many things. These days it means going into the workshop. I am not in the best health, hand tremors, balance issues etc, so with tripping distance to a machine is dangerous for me. But when I was younger and healthier, stronger, more in control and better focus and attention span I could confidently work up close and personal with the saw-blade. Once again it depends on the actual situation. I have no rules in regard proximity, my rule was to have control of the workpiece, and have the commitment, focus and confidence to see the job through. I used push-sticks that i made and many times held the wood with my hands and probably broke all of the "rules" So on occasion my fingers came close enough leave sweat on the blade. But that's just how I was comfortable working. Blades don't usually misbehave, wood doesn't usually misbehave, the cause of most accidents is people screw up, sometimes due to ignorance, sometimes fear, sometimes lack of focus or commitment. As long as you know what you are doing, confident, focused and committed to maintain control you should be fine whatever way you choose.



"near the blade" is pretty subjective. Knowing that you have thousands of hours in the shop let's hear your opinion of "near the blade"

[Warren Lake]

enough of the so called rules are a bother to nonsense. The jointer has to be this long rule made by a teacher or someone wanting to sell you a longer jointer.

Im just doing a job on a slider first time after a million years. Good in many ways but needed a 10 footer if i wanted to edge this ply first, Sucked in in the middle there was a time in the beginning where a 8" edge was straight. Everyone says ill never go back to a cabinet saw. Glad I kept them. I had to drop on or raise up and doing it on the slider would have been more dangerous. The blade on a cabinet saw is close the front slider its further back to an uncomfortable reach for that saw. On the cabinet saw I could drop on no stop as I used to do or I can put the material there hold it and raise the blade up, the reach is too far to do that on the slider. Cabinet saw simple and easy

My view the push sticks are junk so I see those then see no riving knife and nots ideal considering the level of push sticks.

Years ago someone posted a british guy in a red smock with push sticks that were so long I thought it was monty python skit. He had no control of the material and for what to keeps his hands away. Reminds me of the teacher on Karate kid catching flies with chop sticks.

Someone posted a table saw insert guy here months back, I looked for a bit saw no extension table, him reaching for offcuts behind or close the heal of the blade, when using a push stick like i use he had it in a place that made the material walk away from the fence and no riving knife or splitter. Terrific. So many dont have outfeed tables and thats the first moron move people make not knowing any difference. Used to see them cut the you tube when the person on the saw got past the blade or the material drop off the other side onto the floor.

[John TenEyck]

Define "near the blade"

My personal definition, with the guard in place, is a hand width. I use the guard religiously except for dados, so I have no guidance for those who choose not to use one. Actually, I do. Get a SawStop.

John

[Mark Hennebury]

Knowledge of the tools, materials and process will guide you to work safely. if you understand the structure and nature of wood, and you understand cutting tools, and the relationship between them, you will replace fear and ignorance with knowledge and confidence. People who don't understand the tools and materials are dangerous. No amount of "safety" equipment will make them safe! And while a Sawstop may save them from the saw it wont save them from the jointer, shaper, bandsaw, router, mitre-saw etc.


My personal definition, with the guard in place, is a hand width. I use the guard religiously except for dados, so I have no guidance for those who choose not to use one. Actually, I do. Get a SawStop.

John

[Prashun Patel]

One caveat on the popular style Lee has had success with. The short grain section snapped on the one I made out of solid wood - fortunately when I dropped it, not in use.
So if anyone chooses this style, consider plywood.

[Lee Schierer]

One caveat on the popular style Lee has had success with. The short grain section snapped on the one I made out of solid wood - fortunately when I dropped it, not in use.
So if anyone chooses this style, consider plywood.

All of mine are made from plywood for that very reason.

[John TenEyck]

Knowledge of the tools, materials and process will guide you to work safely. if you understand the structure and nature of wood, and you understand cutting tools, and the relationship between them, you will replace fear and ignorance with knowledge and confidence. People who don't understand the tools and materials are dangerous. No amount of "safety" equipment will make them safe! And while a Sawstop may save them from the saw it wont save them from the jointer, shaper, bandsaw, router, mitre-saw etc.


Of course, but removing guards on any machine is just plain stupid and irresponsibe. FWIW, I'm pretty sure tablesaws account for more severe injuries per year than any of the others you mentioned.

[Warren Lake]

the cabinetmakers I knew have done over 40 years with no guards. I use feather boards at times to increase material control. What Mark says is accurate The danger are the people who have a Visa card and no training or understanding and find out what happens after its happened. 4,000 table saw accidents a year and likely they make up the largest portion.

There will be skilled trained guys that have accidents, some cause they choose not to listen and some cause of the pressures in the real world making a living in this trade. Hobby is fantasy island. The best cabinetmaker I ever met choose not to listen in his apprenticeship once. Lucky he still had the finger just was narrower for a fair bit. He showed me and the message got across to me better than it did to him at the time. I still use the exact same push stick design we had in school. They give enough control to a person who has feel on a machine.

[Cameron Wood]

I have a combination jointer planer- two machines that run on a single motor. there is a tendency to lean or steady on the jointer table while using the planer, and even though there is a guard over the jointer knives it is still dangerous and I am vigilant- especially after one of the brothers on a prominent Youtube construction channel mutilated his hand leaning on his jointer.


Re push sticks, the blade makes a difference. On the strength of recommendations (here, I think) I got a higher end table saw blade, and while it cuts well it is a bit more "grabby", & takes more care when feeding stock through, and of course a less sharp blade will require more pressure holding the stock down.

[Warren Lake]

used a Ridgid saw on site the other day. It wasnt ridgid and it moved around the room but it worked. They had a 10" narrow blade on it a thing I refuse to use but had to. It was not sharp. If you ever need to cut a taper just use one of those saws with one of those blades and dull. Saw itself worked well enough for what it is.

I did an 11 hour day on the SCM first day not on a cabinet saw. Its no more dangerous and it didnt try to do anything that the cabinet saw would not do. Blade height has a big effect number of teeth cut and and. Its likely 30 years old and well worn but its a joy to work on a decent saw. Start it sounds like jet, hair blows back and cross cutting 3/4 fake baltic its almost silent cuts like a razor.

[Edward Weber]

Not all tool guards are made the same.
Many guards are too big or poorly designed, they can obstruct access and view of the work. When you see older machines with the guard removed, this is usually why.

[Mark Hennebury]

Using machinery without understanding the nature of the material, tools and process is what is stupid and irresponsible in my opinion!
The sad fact is that most of what you "need" to learn in woodworking you could learn in a day or two, and many people that have been woodworking for decades simple don't have that basic level of knowledge and in effect are working blind.
If you spent a single day in the workshop with a chisel, a handplane and some assorted chunks of wood and a jewelers loupe you could learn to understand the basic principles that you incorporate in every woodworking project and every tool and machine that you will ever use. Wood is not that complicated, neither are cutting tools and process principles.

My Stupidity and irresponsibility has kept me safe from harm in a very dangerous environment and sometimes under considerable stress and pressure for 50 years, so excuse me if I don't take your advise.


Of course, but removing guards on any machine is just plain stupid and irresponsibe. FWIW, I'm pretty sure tablesaws account for more severe injuries per year than any of the others you mentioned.

[Mark Hennebury]

Thirty years ago, a man named Bob walked into my shop and and introduced himself, he told me that he was taking a course on Heritage carpentry at the local college and for the month long summer break he wanted to volunteer at a furniture makers shop to see what it was like in a real work environment, so he asked if he could work for me. I told him that he could if he was willing to do homework, he said sure, so I gave him a block of wood and told him to take it home and read it, I told him that he had to come back Monday and tell me everything about the block of wood.
He never went back to college, he stayed at my shop for a couple of years, said that he learnt more in the month with me than the year at the college.

[Mel Fulks]

Mark, did he have teeth ? I think that’s what they call an “indentured servant”.

[Mark Hennebury]

Haha. Mel, We became good friends and remained so, he passed away three or four years ago. The point is learning woodworking is not difficult, you have to learn to look at stuff, and analyze it. my guess is that a lot of woodworkers have never really looked at wood, not really, not enough to describe every detail about it. How many have spent a day, cutting, slicing, splitting, crushing, bending, breaking, twisting wood, to get an understanding of the properties and behavior. You can learn a lot by experiment and observation. You can learn a lot about cutting tools with a chisel, add in chipbreakers, and rotating blades and your all set for a safe and productive journey of applying what you have learnt to a wide variety of situations, machines and applications. Knowledge is the best safety devise! Following generic rules made by someone else that don't apply to your situation is a recipe for disaster. knowledge gives you the power, to analyze and adapt to the situation. We are all at risk while we are alive, so there is no hundred percent safety, only degrees, margins of safety, and that requires judgement, based on many factors. The more you know the better your judgement will be, but you are always at risk.


Mark, did he have teeth ? I think that’s what they call an “indentured servant”.

[John TenEyck]

Using machinery without understanding the nature of the material, tools and process is what is stupid and irresponsible in my opinion!
The sad fact is that most of what you "need" to learn in woodworking you could learn in a day or two, and many people that have been woodworking for decades simple don't have that basic level of knowledge and in effect are working blind.
If you spent a single day in the workshop with a chisel, a handplane and some assorted chunks of wood and a jewelers loupe you could learn to understand the basic principles that you incorporate in every woodworking project and every tool and machine that you will ever use. Wood is not that complicated, neither are cutting tools and process principles.

My Stupidity and irresponsibility has kept me safe from harm in a very dangerous environment and sometimes under considerable stress and pressure for 50 years, so excuse me if I don't take your advise.

I could care less if you prefer to remove safety devices. But to argue that it's OK because knowledge and experience make them unnecessary truly is irresponsible.

Nothing more to say.

John

[Cameron Wood]

Here's my push stick. I've made a number of them for other woodworkers.
504272



I've never liked this style because it puts your hand over the blade, pushing down directly into the blade zone.

I use a second push stick, if needed to hold the stock down. (or an ice pick, but don't tell or some will flip out)

[Mel Fulks]

Mark, I appreciate your ability to enjoy uninformed levity. Sorry he his gone. We have to balance the ever sneaking up bad stuff with
the puns , jokes , and craziness. The Devil hates laughter.

[Mark Hennebury]

I find it quite interesting how you can imagine so much and attribute it to me. I have only ever told you what I have done and how it has worked for me. My opinion is based on my experience. You decide what's right for you. You would be a fool to copy me, or anyone else for that matter.

I could care less if you prefer to remove safety devices. But to argue that it's OK because knowledge and experience make them unnecessary truly is irresponsible.

Nothing more to say.

John

[Lee Schierer]

I've never liked this style because it puts your hand over the blade, pushing down directly into the blade zone.

I use a second push stick, if needed to hold the stock down. (or an ice pick, but don't tell or some will flip out)

The long front piece of this style simultaneously holds the work piece down as it is pushed through the cut. It keeps your hand well above the blade.

[Edward Weber]

Haha. Mel, We became good friends and remained so, he passed away three or four years ago. The point is learning woodworking is not difficult, you have to learn to look at stuff, and analyze it. my guess is that a lot of woodworkers have never really looked at wood, not really, not enough to describe every detail about it. How many have spent a day, cutting, slicing, splitting, crushing, bending, breaking, twisting wood, to get an understanding of the properties and behavior. You can learn a lot by experiment and observation. You can learn a lot about cutting tools with a chisel, add in chipbreakers, and rotating blades and your all set for a safe and productive journey of applying what you have learnt to a wide variety of situations, machines and applications. Knowledge is the best safety devise! Following generic rules made by someone else that don't apply to your situation is a recipe for disaster. knowledge gives you the power, to analyze and adapt to the situation. We are all at risk while we are alive, so there is no hundred percent safety, only degrees, margins of safety, and that requires judgement, based on many factors. The more you know the better your judgement will be, but you are always at risk.
While overall I agree with the major theme of your statement/s, woodworking is not easy to learn for everyone. Some struggle with very basic concepts regardless of how it's presented or taught to them. Some can learn a lot by experiment and observation, not all. Everyone learns at their own speed, in their own way.

[Mark Hennebury]

You are right about that, not everyone learns at the same pace or in the same way. Back in the 80's I used to teach night-classes in my shop, eight students per class. Probably had over 400 students over the years. I quite enjoyed teaching.



While overall I agree with the major theme of your statement/s, woodworking is not easy to learn for everyone. Some struggle with very basic concepts regardless of how it's presented or taught to them. Some can learn a lot by experiment and observation, not all. Everyone learns at their own speed, in their own way.

[Jim Becker]

Jay Bates just released a video on this very subject...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uc4roKADLLo

[Mark Hennebury]

You realize that this world is very strange to many of us who have been around before the internet; most of this revolutionary stuff that is showcased in videos is just ordinary everyday stuff that we did without thought ....like breathing. When did people start buying pushsticks? When did people need a video tutorial to make a pushstick? It all seems so bizarre! If you can't figure out how to make a pushstick how are you going to figure out how to make anything more complicated?

[Cameron Wood]

Jay Bates just released a video on this very subject...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uc4roKADLLo



It looks like the hand hole in his push block is an inch or less up from the bottom, so if the blade was 1/2" above the stock, you could be running your fingers 1/2" above the blade without even thinking about it. He shows using it to poke the stock through the end of the cut, but that means repositioning it from the starting position, when it wasn't even needed.
Thanks, but I won't be downloading the PDF.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Of course, but removing guards on any machine is just plain stupid and irresponsibe. FWIW, I'm pretty sure tablesaws account for more severe injuries per year than any of the others you mentioned.
Actually - it's by far and away routers that cause the most serious damage. Table saws make nice clean cuts, while routers just rip the ever loving daylights out of flesh.
I read that little bit here on SMC years ago & think of it every time I stick my hand into the plate to lift my Milwaukee 5625-20 up out of the table. Sort of like sticking your hand in the face of a really ticked off Rottweiler & waving it around..
I also look at the unplugged end of the power cord three times before I do that.

[Edward Weber]

You realize that this world is very strange to many of us who have been around before the internet; most of this revolutionary stuff that is showcased in videos is just ordinary everyday stuff that we did without thought ....like breathing. When did people start buying pushsticks? When did people need a video tutorial to make a pushstick? It all seems so bizarre! If you can't figure out how to make a pushstick how are you going to figure out how to make anything more complicated?
You hit the nail on the head.
People are often much too easily impressed these days.
When posed with a problem they often go to YouTube first, before trying to figure out anything on their own. Lack of critical thinking and/or imagination, may be why we have soo many people making cutting boards, but I digress.

Using a push block is a good safety practice but one size does not fit all. Use what works for you.

[John TenEyck]

Actually - it's by far and away routers that cause the most serious damage. Table saws make nice clean cuts, while routers just rip the ever loving daylights out of flesh.
I read that little bit here on SMC years ago & think of it every time I stick my hand into the plate to lift my Milwaukee 5625-20 up out of the table. Sort of like sticking your hand in the face of a really ticked off Rottweiler & waving it around..
I also look at the unplugged end of the power cord three times before I do that.

I don't know what causes the most serious injury, but tablesaws account for FAR more injuries than any other shop machine. Routers didn't even make the list here, maybe because it likely isn't viewed as a stand-alone machine.

https://www.wwgoa.com/article/shop-accident-statistics-woodworking-safety/#:~:text=Shop%20Accident%20Statistics%20and%20Wood working%20Safety%201%20Table,annual%20injuries%20. ..%206%20The%20Take%20Away%20

So when you read me advocating to use a blade guard on a tablesaw, it's for good reason. If one doesn't like, can't see, whatever the excuse not to use one is, get a guard that works for you. The Shark Guard, for example, always seems to get positive reviews.

John

[Rich Engelhardt]

I can't really imagine how amputation could be less serious - but - I have to believe it has something to do with the type of wound and how complicated it is to repair. Anyhow - I remember reading it here on SMC a long time ago.

Lest it be forgotten that - the table saw is also a launch platform & is a "double threat".

[Edward Weber]

I don't know what causes the most serious injury, but tablesaws account for FAR more injuries than any other shop machine. Routers didn't even make the list here, maybe because it likely isn't viewed as a stand-alone machine.

https://www.wwgoa.com/article/shop-accident-statistics-woodworking-safety/#:~:text=Shop%20Accident%20Statistics%20and%20Wood working%20Safety%201%20Table,annual%20injuries%20. ..%206%20The%20Take%20Away%20

So when you read me advocating to use a blade guard on a tablesaw, it's for good reason. If one doesn't like, can't see, whatever the excuse not to use one is, get a guard that works for you. The Shark Guard, for example, always seems to get positive reviews.

John

John, with respect, sometimes the guard that works for you is not to have one.
I do a good bit of turning, the guard that came with my lathe has never been out of the plastic. You can not properly use the tool because the guard restricts your vision and movement.
So the safest way to use a tool that spins a piece of wood at high speed, that you then stick a chisel into, is to learn how to use the tool safely without the guard.
Don't get me wrong, I like safety guards but if they're designed poorly (which is often the case) or don't fit a particular style of work, you need to do something. People remove guards for a reason, whether everyone agrees with that reason is a matter of opinion.
Often "guards" are htere more for CYA than anything else.
A few tears ago, I bought a DP and there was a little clear plastic, spring loaded shroud that covered the chuck, needless to say, it did not get installed.

IME, it's the operator that's dangerous, not the tool.
JMHO

[Cameron Wood]

I've been watching old "New Yankee Workshop" episodes.

It seems that these days, some would brand him (Norm Abrams) a radically dangerous woodworker.

[Doug Garson]

It looks like the hand hole in his push block is an inch or less up from the bottom, so if the blade was 1/2" above the stock, you could be running your fingers 1/2" above the blade without even thinking about it. He shows using it to poke the stock through the end of the cut, but that means repositioning it from the starting position, when it wasn't even needed.
Thanks, but I won't be downloading the PDF.
Why would you have the blade 1/2" above the stock?

[Edward Weber]

Why would you have the blade 1/2" above the stock?
Raising the blade high is a common practice when ripping stock. It makes it easier to move the wood through the blade because the cut angle is in a more vertical position.

[Doug Garson]

Raising the blade high is a common practice when ripping stock. It makes it easier to move the wood through the blade because the cut angle is in a more vertical position.
I think the most common recommendation is more like 1/8" above which would make the Bates pushblock referred to perfectly safe, if you prefer 1/2" for the reason you gave you need a different design push block especially for thin rips. What style do you use?

[Cameron Wood]

I think the most common recommendation is more like 1/8" above which would make the Bates pushblock referred to perfectly safe, if you prefer 1/2" for the reason you gave you need a different design push block especially for thin rips. What style do you use?



My preference shown in post #14.

[John Kananis]

You want to clear the gullet on substantial rips. Imho...


I think the most common recommendation is more like 1/8" above which would make the Bates pushblock referred to perfectly safe, if you prefer 1/2" for the reason you gave you need a different design push block especially for thin rips. What style do you use?

[Doug Garson]

You want to clear the gullet on substantial rips. Imho...
Agreed, I think 1/8" does that.

[Doug Garson]

My preference shown in post #14.
That style scares me unless you have some form of featherboard on the fence holding the workpiece down to avoid it from lifting up. Higher blade height does reduce the potential for this but I'd rather keep the blade lower and use a push shoe/block similar to the Bates one which puts downward pressure on the workpiece to prevent it from lifting. But if it works for you then carry on. Here's what I'm currently using.

504479

[Patty Hann]

I use the William Ng and Matthias Wandel pushsticks

504489

(I don't buy either, just copied the outlines...have about a half dozen of each)

[Doug Garson]

I try to always have a second push stick like the second one in Patty's post in my left hand, first to push the workpiece against the fence if I'm not using a featherboard ( I usually do use a featherboard), but more important in case something goes wrong and I instinctively reach in to correct it, the push stick keeps my hand well away.

[Patty Hann]

I try to always have a second push stick like the second one in Patty's post in my left hand, first to push the workpiece against the fence if I'm not using a featherboard ( I usually do use a featherboard), but more important in case something goes wrong and I instinctively reach in to correct it, the push stick keeps my hand well away.

Yep... right hand might be using either of the ones shown, but left hand is almost always holding the actual "stick" one when ripping.

[John TenEyck]

I've been watching old "New Yankee Workshop" episodes.

It seems that these days, some would brand him (Norm Abrams) a radically dangerous woodworker.


Despite the disclaimer to follow all of the safety instructions that come with your tools, Norm didn't. Every time I watched him use his TS I thought of the dis service he was doing to many of the woodworkers that watched him and thought, well, if Norm thinks it's OK not to use a guard there's no reason I should. It's the beginning woodworker most at risk because they don't have the knowledge and experience yet that will help them assess the risk of a particular operation. So was Norm a radically dangerous woodworker? No, but he and the producer should have better realized who formed a great part of the audience and acted accordingly.

John

[Kevin Jenness]

I won't say guards are over-rated but a guard on a tablesaw is least useful just when a push stick is most needed. How can you hand-feed a rip less than 1" wide against a fence with a typical guard in place? A riving knife, a push stick and close attention are called for in that situation. Personally, I like to have a view of the stock against the fence so I can see if the workpiece is pinching or splaying as the cut progresses. A hands-free kill switch is also a valuable safety device when you can see a problem developing.

As Philip Mitchell points out, a bandsaw is generally safer for ripping. I often use mine for roughing out material.

[Mark Hennebury]

John,

You should apply your bubble-wrap philosophy to all media.

I mean if Tom can do it....

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It seems that some people wish to hide the truth and instead present a sanitized false version of reality, due to some misguided belief that "they" should get to decide just what the rest of us helpless fools can safely handle.


Woodworkers work like they work!
You don't have to like it.

It seems that you would have us dress up and act like the phony woodworkers / content creators pushing all the stupid gimmicks and using all of the "safety" gear, tools and machinery to promote their sponsors, that would be a lie, because that's not how we work.
Or figure out how to ban "everything" that is dangerous for a beginner to do. Of course that would put Tom Cruise out of work....a small price to pay for saving all the innocent souls of this planet.

The only ones doing a disservice are those that deny the truth, cover up, hide and censor what was and is being done.


Newsflash; Living is dangerous.

[Bill Carey]

I have 3 push blocks that cover 95% of what I do at the TS. I have several other special ones for the router table and the joiner. I try to angle the block toward the fence whenever I can - it seems to help keep the pressure against the fence.

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The only tool in my shop that still has the factory guard on it is the joiner - for good reason. Been working with my hands for 55 years and believe this statement by Mark is correct: "As long as you know what you are doing, confident, focused and committed to maintain control you should be fine ......" As far as I'm concerned the guard is going to fail long before I will and then I'll be fubar because I relied on it. Much rather rely on myself.

(typing with ten)

[Prashun Patel]

Ok, are we good on the push block subject? Lots of great examples, lots of differing opinions. But it's getting a little warm in here and some fingers are getting dangerously close to the teeth of this moderator. I'd hate to have to jam a brake into this thread and ruin an otherwise sharp and effective conversation. (apologies for the stretched metaphor).

I think getting two sides to agree on this might be Mission Impossible. Let's let it rest.