Cutting 45 degree bevels on panels

[tim walker]

I have four panels that will join together to form a box. Each panel 13 7/8” deep. I have three different ways to cut the bevels, table saw, track saw, router table w/45 degree bit? What would be your go to for accuracy and safety?

[Greg Quenneville]

I have used all three and prefer the table saw. (But I have a Festool tracksaw which can be a little tippy if you’re not careful. I understand that the Makita saws/tracks have an extra lug that prevents that.)

It is easy to confirm a 45.0° blade angle on my table saw too, but that hasn’t been a problem with the tracksaw so far.

[Richard Coers]

It takes a very good router bit to be dead on. I wanted to do a production run of identical boxes and built a location fixture on the bed of my cnc router. I bought an insert bit thinking it would be accurate. It was close, but not close enough. I added a paper shim between the insert and the shoulder and hit it dead on. I made 30 boxes in less than a 1/2 hour using a miter fold technique.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I have used all three and prefer the table saw. (But I have a Festool tracksaw which can be a little tippy if you’re not careful. I understand that the Makita saws/tracks have an extra lug that prevents that.)

It is easy to confirm a 45.0° blade angle on my table saw too, but that hasn’t been a problem with the tracksaw so far.
I have to make a 45* cut on a lid to a small kid's bench - about 18" x 24" & I'm pretty sure I'm going to use my Makita track saw & track because it has that extra lug.
I guess I could just simply crank the blade over in the table saw, but, it's a beautiful day outside and I want to get out and enjoy the nice weather so I'll dg the cutting table out in the driveway and have at it!

[Edward Weber]

Table saw, without question.

[John TenEyck]

Agreed, table saw, and this is the way to do it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaU6oKMMYKliAK8xvHszbHaLkqBZiOtautDUWEYLKMkxWB ZtVETUl7sIDhIqzI_Tq0rCLAbfUP-zkfP5cpgkOcMaDvff0lYlvIwdz0bDp9ikgiS14gW2QmuaNhWAf vJt8D-nibZYmuSHFH658L1-On8Tmg=w1583-h893-s-no?authuser=0

Once you install the elevated fence and set the blade, it's as easy as ripping lumber, with no worries about holding the stock square. FYI, you can cut any bevel angle this way, and the part can be multi sided - cut one edge, rotate, cut the next edge, etc.

John

[Greg Quenneville]

Thanks John. I am going to make a fence like that tomorrow.

Greg

[roger wiegand]

Table saw here as well. Have practice stock on hand so you can dial the angle in for a precise fit. My Wixy gauge comes amazingly close, but sometimes not perfect.

I've also used a shaper with an adjustable angle head, which also works well. It was harder to avoid bobbles with than the table saw, even with a power feed.

[John TenEyck]

Thanks John. I am going to make a fence like that tomorrow.

Greg


Greg, there was an article in FWW a couple of years ago with a more refined version of the fence, if you're interested. The simple L-shaped one shown above, however, works just fine.

John

[Greg Quenneville]

Thanks again John. I have made long bevels with the work trapped between the blade and the fence while Dennis O’Leary sang “I’m an a**shole” in the background. Your way is more appealing.

[tim walker]

Thanks John. A couple of questions. Is there a set height above the table or are you setting it a few mm below height of your stock? I assume you move the fence over until the blade just kissed the fence? And is the block on the rear of the stock to preven tear out? Thanks for the idea and suggestions
Agreed, table saw, and this is the way to do it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaU6oKMMYKliAK8xvHszbHaLkqBZiOtautDUWEYLKMkxWB ZtVETUl7sIDhIqzI_Tq0rCLAbfUP-zkfP5cpgkOcMaDvff0lYlvIwdz0bDp9ikgiS14gW2QmuaNhWAf vJt8D-nibZYmuSHFH658L1-On8Tmg=w1583-h893-s-no?authuser=0

Once you install the elevated fence and set the blade, it's as easy as ripping lumber, with no worries about holding the stock square. FYI, you can cut any bevel angle this way, and the part can be multi sided - cut one edge, rotate, cut the next edge, etc.

John

[John TenEyck]

Thanks John. A couple of questions. Is there a set height above the table or are you setting it a few mm below height of your stock? I assume you move the fence over until the blade just kissed the fence? And is the block on the rear of the stock to preven tear out? Thanks for the idea and suggestions

Yes, the fence height is set just below the top of the stock, making sure it's high enough for the offcut to fall underneath. The rip fence is adjusted so that the blade enters the fence exactly at the top of the stock, or maybe a few thousandths below. I do that by lowering the blade all the way, installing the fence to the correct height, then sliding the stock against the fence and drawing a pencil line on the fence. Pull the stock away then adjust the blade and rip fence so the blade enters the fence just below the line. Better to start with the blade a little low as you can always raise it and take another pass until it's perfect.

The piece you see at the back of the panel I'm cutting is not there for any particular reason.

I just remembered; Steve Latta wrote an article in FWW about this type of fence. Bob VanDyke, too, I think.

John

[al ladd]

With a left tilt table saw just use the fence the normal way. Make one rip cut leaving about 1/16" of extra material. Move the fence 1/16" and cut to perfection with half the resistance. Nothing rattling around that way on the money cut. Full kerf blade. Back the cut with a piece of scrap.