Jonathan Jung
07-03-2023, 11:02 PM
What are clean looking and easy options for faceframe widths - making them flush to the cabinet panels, or step them out 2+mm?
I'm talking about where the faceframe installs to an exposed cabinet side, with a visible joint. Normally these are the vertical outside corners.
I see there's three options. Make them flush and hope for a good joint. Make them flush and use a V bit along the joint (terrible IMO unless being painted). Make them proud.
I've long had the dilemma in that I want to make my cabinets look as good as possible, but without heaps of extra install work when it comes to crown and base. I really like the look of making the FFs 2mm proud of exposed cabinet sides, with a 1/16" roundover on that back edge. It makes the faceframe going to the floor look like a furniture leg. But this step creates a problem with scribe, base and crown because now I have to either rebate the end of the trim, or notch the end of the faceframe (the latter looks the best, as I've done in the images).
Is there something I'm missing?
503788
503789
This is part of my next project. If I use scribe base trim (to account for HO installed tile), then I have to notch anytime the base intersects the faceframe.
503790
503791
detail. the 2mm step on the backside of the FF gets the 1/16" roundover and the front of the FF gets a 1/8". FF is therefore wider than two sheets of 3/4" ply.
503792
I'm talking about where the faceframe installs to an exposed cabinet side, with a visible joint. Normally these are the vertical outside corners.
I see there's three options. Make them flush and hope for a good joint. Make them flush and use a V bit along the joint (terrible IMO unless being painted). Make them proud.
I've long had the dilemma in that I want to make my cabinets look as good as possible, but without heaps of extra install work when it comes to crown and base. I really like the look of making the FFs 2mm proud of exposed cabinet sides, with a 1/16" roundover on that back edge. It makes the faceframe going to the floor look like a furniture leg. But this step creates a problem with scribe, base and crown because now I have to either rebate the end of the trim, or notch the end of the faceframe (the latter looks the best, as I've done in the images).
Is there something I'm missing?
503788
503789
This is part of my next project. If I use scribe base trim (to account for HO installed tile), then I have to notch anytime the base intersects the faceframe.
503790
503791
detail. the 2mm step on the backside of the FF gets the 1/16" roundover and the front of the FF gets a 1/8". FF is therefore wider than two sheets of 3/4" ply.
503792